
Qass J: / Q 4 



Book _/ i4 '^ .6 ^^ 



i 



.-rysr.z 







TRAVEi.I-ER'S GUIDE 



THROUGH THE 



MIDDLE AND NORTHERN STATES, 

AND THE 

PROVINCES OF CANADA. 

S^UBLISHED BY G. M. DAVISON ; AND BT G. & C. & ». 
CARVILL, NEW-YORK. 



MDCCCXXSIV, 



r N., 



• ^ • ■ ■ ^ 









Entered according to the Act of Congress, ia the 
year 1834, by G. M. Davison, in the Clerk's office of 
the District Court of tho Northern District of New- • 

York. ' 



INDEX. 



Page. 

Introduction, 17 

From Savannah to Charleston, 

Savannah, 19 

Steam-boat route — table of distances, 20 

Land route — table of distances, id 

Charleston, 21 

Charleston and Augusta rail road, 22 

Sullivan's Island, 23 

From Charleston to J^''ew-York. 

Route by water — table of distances, 25 

From Charleston to J^orfolk. 

Table of distances — Santee river, 25 

Georgetown— Vv^ilmington — Newbern, 26 

Washington — Plymouth — Roanoke river, id 

Albemarle Sound — Elizabeth City, 27 

Dismal Swamp — Dismal Swamp canal, id 

Portsmouth— Norfolk, 28 

From Jsforfolk to Washington. 

Table of distances, 29 

From JyTorfolk to Baltimore. 

Table of distances — Chesapeake Bay, 30 

From JSTorfolk to Richmond. 

Table of distances, 30 

Williamsburirh — Jamestown SI 



VI INDEX. 

Richmond, 35 

Manchester, • « « 34 

Frcmi Richmond to Monticello. 

Monticello — Grave of Jefferson, 34 

From Monticello to the Warm Springs. 

Warm Springs — Natural Bridge, 36 

From Richmond to Washington City. 

Route and table of distances — Fredericksburgh, . . 37 

Mount Vernon, 3S 

Alexandria, • * . . 39 

Washington City, 40 

G eorgetown, 47 

Chesapeake and Ohio canal, 48 

From Washington to Baltimore. 

Table of distances — Baltimore, 49 

Baltimore and Ohio rail road, 53 

Baltimore and Susquehannah rail road, 55 

From Baltimm'e to Philadelphia. 

Stage route — Wilmington, 58 

Steam-boat and rail road route — iNorth Point,. ... 59 

Chesapeake ?nd Delaware canal, id 

French Town and Newcastle rail road, 60 

Newcastle — Philadelphia, 63 

Internal improvements — Union canal, 70 

Pennsylvania canal, 72 

Schuylkill canal — Lehigh canal, 74 

Philadelphia and Norristown rail road, id 

Columbia and Philadelphia rail road, 75 

Coal Mines, id 

From Philadelphia to the Schuylkill Coal Mines. 

Table of distances — Norristown, 80 



INDEX. Vll 

Pottstown — Reading, 80 

Hamburgh — Mount Carbon, 81 

Route to the Lehigh Coal Mines. 

Mauch Chunk, 84 

Mauch Chunk rail road, 85 

Lehigh river, 86 

The landing — Lehighton,. 87 

Lehiofh Water Gap — Bethlehem, 88 

Easton, 89 

Morris canal — Delaware Water Gap, 90 

Delaware Wind Gap, 91 

From Easton to Schooly^s Mountain and thence 
to JSTeio-York. 

Table of distances — Schooly's Mountain, 91 

Newark, N. J id 

From Philadelphia to ihCexo-YorJc. 

Steam-boat and rail road route — table of distances, 92 

Burlington — Bristol, id 

Bordentown — Camden and Amboy rail road,.. ... 93 

Steam-boat and stage route — table of distances,. . . 94 

Trenton, 95 

Princeton, , id 

New-Brunswick, 96 

Perth Amboy — Ehzabethtown — Staten Island,. , . 97 

New- York, id 

Principal Hotels, 106 

Public coaches — Excursions, Ill 

Gov^ernor's and Bedlow's Islands, id 

Staten Island — Patterson — Passaic Falls, 112 

Hoboken — Weehawk — Long Branch, id 

Harlaem rail road, , 113 

Manhattan Island. id 

Hurl Gate, '. 114 

Brooklyn, 115 

Discovery of the Hudson, Jl 16 



viii INDEX- 

From J^ew-York to Albany. 

Table of distances, 113 

Passage of the Hudson — Wehawken, 121 

Pallisadoes,.. • 122 

Fort Lee — Fort Washington, id 

Tappan Bay — Tarrytown, 123 

Haverstraw Bay — Highlands, 124 

West Point, 125 

IviniLury iit ademy, 12G 

Pollopel Island — New Windsor, 128 

Newburgh, , 129 

Milton — Pougukcepsic — Hyde Park Landing, .. . 130 

Delaware and Hudson canal, id 

Catskill, 131 

Pine Orchard, 132 

Athens— Hudson, 134 

Coxsackie Landii g, 135 

Albany, id 

Excursions — Man ion of Gen. Van Rensselaer,. . . 1 39 

McAdamized road— U. S. Arsenal, 140 

Watervleit— Troy, 141 

Lansingburgh — V aterford, 143 

The Junction— Cohoes Falls, 144 

Van Schaick's Isknd, 145 

Shaker Settlement, 146 

From Albany to Saratoga Springs. 

Table of distances, 149 

Mohawk and Hudson rail road, 1 50 

Buel's Farm, 152 

Schenectady, 153 

Saratoga and Schenectady rail road, 155 

Ballston Lake— Ballston Spa, 157 

Saratoga Springs, 162 

From Saratoga Springs to the Battle Ground. 

Saratoga Lake, • ^"^^ 

Bemus' Heights, • ^"^^ 



INDEX. 



IX 



Schuyler- Ville, i «^ 

Fort Edward, *'!!!!!!*.'. id 

From Saratoga Springs to Lake George. 

Sandy Hill— Glens' Falls, ,gQ 

Jessups' Falls— Hadley Falls, ist 

Bloody Pond— Caldwell, \ti 

Lake George, f°f 

Fort William Henry, .*!.*..*!*. igl 

Passage of Lake George, **.'.'.*.*. len 

Ticonderoga, i .**..*!',.'!.*.'.'.*.*.* .*.'.' * 189 

EXCURSION TO NIAGARA FALLS. 

BY RAIL ROAD AND STAGE. 

Fro7n Saratoga Springs to Buffalo. 

Remarks, 

Table of distances, .....*!!*.*.'.!!!*..'[.*]] Jq^ 

Schenectady, * *^^ 

Fort 'ptr::P.'"^^"'^"-^^-'^^"^^^^ •••••• J^^ 

Little Falls,*. .,.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.,',',', ^ ^^ 

Petrifactions at Osquake 'creek, *.*.'.' iH 

Herknner, -^"^ 

Utica, ; 201 

Trenton Falls, ...'.* ^^ 

New Hartford— Manchester! .*.*.*.*.*; ^?^ 

Vernon— Oneida Castle— Lenox,. ol? 

auality Hill-Chitteningo, Hi 

Manlius, ^/^ 212 

JamesviUe— Onondaga Hollow,! '.'.'. ^\l 

Onondaga Hill— Marcellus,. . ... *'t 

Skaneateles, *« 

Auburn— Stat* Prison,'. .'.'.'.'.'.*.'.' lH 

Cayuga, • ^^5 

Seneca Falls,. . . . .*.'.'.'.*.' .* " * ^^"^ 

Waterloo— Geneva,'. *'.'.'.*'* ^{^ 

Geneva Lake, . . . ^'^ 

' 219 



S INDEX. 

Canandaigua, , 2*2 ! 

Burning Springs, , . . . . 224 

E. & W. Bloomfield— Lima— East Avon, 226 

Avon Spring — Caledonia, 227 

Leroy — Batavia, 228 

Batavia to Buffalo, 229 

ERIE CANAL. 

Description of, 230 

Canal passage — Canal route, 233 

Table of distances, 234 

Albany— Troy — the Junction, 236 

Schenectady — Amsterdam, id 

Schoharrie Creek — Caughnawaga, id 

Anthony's Nose — Spraker's Basin — Canajoharrie, id 

Bowman's Creek — Fort Plain, id 

East Canada Creek — Mohawk Castle, id 

Little Falls— Herkimer,.. 237 

Frankfort — Utica — Wliitesborough, id 

Oriskany — Rome, 238 

New London, 236 

Canastota — Chitteningo — Syracuse, 240 

Salina, 241 

Oswego canal — Geddes — Nine Mile creek,. . .... 243 

Camillus — Canton — Jordan — Weed's Fort, id 

Centre Port — Port Bvron, id 

Lake Port— Clyde, . Z 244 

Palmyra — Fair Port — Fullom's basin, Pittsford, . . 245 

Rochester, 246 

Carthage, 2H 

Spencer's basin — Brockport — HoUey — Albion, . . . 252 

Medina — Middleport — Lockport, » . 253 

Buffalo, 255 

Seneca Village, 258 

WESTERN LAKES. 

Lake Superior — Lake Huron — Lake Michigan, . . 259 

Michiliinackinac — Detroit, 2G0 

Laka Erie, 261 



INDEX. . XI 

From Buffalo to J^iagara Falls. 

Stage route on the American side, 261 

Stage and steam-boat route on the Canada side,. , id 

Black Rock— Waterloo, 262 

Chippewa Battle Cxround, ...... 263 

Chippewa Village, 264 

Bridgewater or Lundy's Lane, 265 

Burning Spring — Niagara Falls, 2®7 

Canada side, 268 

American side, 271 

Biddle stair way, 273 

Welland canal, 275 

Clueenston, battle of, 277 

Brock's Monument, 27S 

Fort George or Newark, 279 

Youngstown — Lewiston, id 

Ridge Road or Alluvial Way, 280 

Tuscarora Village — Devil's Hole, 281 

Whirlpool — Sulpher Spring — American Fall,. . . . 282 

LAKE ONTARIO. 
Description of, 2S2 

Route from JViagara to Montreal. 

British side, 283 

Table of distances, 284 

American side — table of distances, 285 

Charlotte — Great Sodus Bay — Oswego, 286 

Sacket's Harbor, 288 

Cape Vincent — Morristown — Ogdensburgh, 289 

Rapids of the St. Lawrence, 290 

Gallop Islands — St. Regis — Lachine — Montreal,. 291 

Excursions — Lachine — Varrennes, 294 

Rideau canal , 295 

From Montreal to Q^uebec. 

Description of the route, 301 

2* 



xii INDEX. 

William Henry— Lake St. Peter, 302 

Three Rivers — Richelieu Rapids, 303 

Sillery river— Wolfe's Cove— Point Levi — Gtuebec, 304 

Plains of Abraham, 314 

Montello Towers, 315 

Falls of Montmorenci, 316 

Lorette, .... 318 

Chaudiere Falls, 319 

St. Lawrence river below duebec, 320 

Saguenay river, 322 

Mouth of the St. Lawrence, 324 

From duebec to Montreal, id 

From J\Io7itreal to Whitehall. 

Table of distances, 325 

Chambly — St. Johns — Lake Champlain, 326 

Isle aux Noix — Rouse's Point — Plattsburgh, 327 

Downie's Monument, 328 

Mc Donough's Farm— Port Kent— Adgate's Falls, 330 

High Bridge—Burlington, 331 

Split Rock— Crown Point, 332 

Ticonderoga — Mount Independence, 333 

South and East Bays — Whitehall, id 

CHAMPLAIN CANAL. 
Description of, 334 

Canal route from Whitehall to Mbany. 
Table of distances, 335 

From Whitehall to Albany^ by Statue and Rail Road. 

Table of distances, 335 

Fort Ann — Burgoyne's road, 336 

Sandy Hill — Fortville, id 

Saratoga Springs to Albany, 337 



INDEX. xm 

ROUTES TO BOSTON. 
Remarks relating to, 337 

From Albany to Boston. 

Table of distances — New Lebanon, 338 

Pittsfield — Natural Bridge, 339 

Northampton — Farmington and Hampshire canal, 340 

Mount Holyoke, 341 

Hadley, ^ 342 

Regicides, Whalley andj Goffe, id 

Belchertown — Ware Factory Village — Brookfield, 344 

Leicester — Worcester, 345 

Black Stone canal— Boston and Worcester rail road, 346 
Worcester to Boston, id 

From Saratoga Springs to Boston. 

Table of distances— Schuylerville — Union Village, 347 

Cambridge — Arlington, id 

Manchester — Chester— Bellows Falls, 348 

Walpole, 349 

Keene — Groton — Concord — Lexington, 350 

Cambridge, 352 

From Whitehall to Boston. 

Fairhaven — Castleton, 353 

Rutland— Chester, 354 

From Burlington to Boston, through H^indsor, Vt. 

Tabble of distances — Montpelier, 355 

Randolph — Royalton — Woodstock — Windsor,. . . 356 
Windsor to Boston, id 

From Burlington to Boston, by way of the White Moun- 
tains and Concord, J^. H. 

Table of distances — Hanover, (see note) 357 

White Mountains, 358 

Conway — Faysburgh , 365 



xiv INDEX. 

From C 0711V ay to Concord. 

Centre Harbor— Red Mountain, 366 

Squam Lake — Concord, 367 

Frciu Concord to Boston. 

Nashua — ^Lowell, 38S 

Boston and Lowell rail road, 271 

Boston, id 

Mount Auburn — Cluincy, 379 

Dorchester, 3S0 

Brighton — Watertown — Cambridge, 381 

Charlestown, id 

Ursuline Convent — Breed's Hill, 382 

Bunker Hill Monument — Fort Independence, .... 386 

JNTahant, 387 

Forts around Boston erected during the revolution, 390 

From Boston to Portland. 

Table of distances — ^Lynn — Salem, 397 

Newburyport — Portsmouth, 398 

Portland, 399 

From Portland to Q,iiebec. 

Remarks relative to the route, 401 

Table of distances — North Yarmouth — Freeport, id 

BrunsAvick, id 

BoAA dointown — ^Hallowell, ^ . . . 402 

Augusta — Sidney, id 

Waterville — Bloorafield — Norridgevt'ork, 403 

Remainder of the route to Cluebec, id 

From Portland to Eastport. 

Table of distances, 403 

Bath — Wiscasset — New Castle — VValdoboro',. . . . 404 

Warren — Thomastown — Camden — Belfast, 405 

Buckstown — Penobscot — Castine, id 

Machias — Eastport, 406 

Robiiistown,. 407 



INDEX. XT 

From Boston to J^eio-York. 
Remarks relating to and directions, 407 

From Boston to Providence. 

Remarks and directions — Table of distances, 408 

Dedham, id 

Walpole — Pavvtucket — Providence, 409 

Biackstone Canal, id 

From Providence to J^excport. 

Bristol— Newport, 412 

Fort Green— Mount Hope— King Philip, 414 

From Providence to Mew- London. 

Remarks — Centerville — West Greenwich, 418 

Hopkinton — Stonington, 419 

New-London, 420 

Steamboat and stages, 422 

From Jstew-London to J^onvich, by steam-boat. 

Thames river, 422 

Mohegan — Trading Cove — Norwich, 423 

From J^onoich to Hartford. 

Table of distances— East Hartford— Hartford, .... 425 
Steam boats and stages from Hartford, 428 

From Hartford to Meio-Haven. 
Table of distances— Wethcrsfield— Rock Hill,. . . 429 

MiddletoAvn— Military Academy, 430 

Natural Ice Houses, 431 

Haddam — Saybrook, (see note.) id 

New-Haven— Public Square, 432 

Yale College, 433 

New burying ground — Tontine Cotlee House,. . , 434 
V\'est Rock, , , id 



XVI INDEX. 

East Rock — Farmington Canal, 435 

Steam boats from New-Haven to New- York,. . . . 436 
Stages from New-Haven, id 

Route from J^eiv-Haven to J^eio-York. 

Table of distances — Sketch of the route, (see note. ) 436 

Bridgeport — Fairfield — Norwalk, id 

West Chester County — Horseneck — Harlaem,. . , 437 

From Jfeio-Haven to Litchfield. 

Stages — Waterbury — West Rock, 437 

Watertown— Litchfield— Mount Tom, 433 

Great Pond— Chalybeate Spring— Mount Prospect, id 

From Litchfield to Albany. 
Stages and intervening places, 439 

From Litchfield to Hartford. 

Harwinton — Burlington — Farmington, 439 

Hartford, 440 

Route up the Valley of the Connecticut river. 

Windsor— Enfield, 440 

Suffield, 44 1 

West Sprinirfield — Springfield, 442 

South Hadley Falls, 443 

Northampton — Hadley — Hatfield, 444 

Muddy Brook, 445 

Deerfield, ; . 446 

Greenfield— Turner's Falls, 448 

Bernardstown — Vernon, 449 

Guilford — Brattleborough — Dummerston, 450 

Putney — Westminster — Walpole — Bellows Falls, id 

Charlestown, id 

Springfield, 451 

Weathersfield, — Windsor — Hartland, 452 

Hartford — Hanover, id 









The oppressive heat of summer in the sourthcrn sec- 
tions of the the United States, and the consequent ex- 
posure to illness, have long induced the wealthy part of 
the population to seek, at that season of the year, the 
more salubrious climate of the north. But the recent 
gigantic internal improvements in the northern and 
middle states, and the developement of new and highly 
interesting natural scenery, together with the increased 
facilities for travelling, have greatly augmented the 
number of tourists within a short period. The rail 
roads, canals, coal mines, the Springs, the Falls, the 
Lakes, the fortifications of duebec, the sublime moun- 
tain scenery in New-York and New-England, with the 
various attractions presented in the large commercial 
cities, cannot fail of insuring to a traveller a rich com- 
pensation for the toils incident to a journey. 

This work is designed as a pocket manual and guide 
to travellers visiting these places. Our limits forbid 
that we should indulge in elaborate descriptions or mi- 
nute geographical and statistical details. We have 
therefore confined ourselves to subjects of more imme- 
diate interest to the tourist ; directing him in his course, 
and pointing out, as he passes, objects which most de- 
serve his notice and regard. 

The Guide, it will be perceived, commences at Savan- 
nah, in Georgia, though a rapid glance of the country '- 
merely is taken until reaching Washington City. The 



XVIU INTRODUCTION- 

travelling from south to north being more generally by 
water than otherwise, a minute description of the coun- 
try between Savannah and "Washington would be un- 
interesting and unimportant to a great proportion of the 
readers of these pages. We therefore briefly notice 
some of the prominent cities and tov.-ns, and pass on 
to those sections embraced within what has been usual- 
ly denominated the Fashionable or Northern Tour. 



THE 



TRAVELLER'S GUIDE, 



Savannah, the principal city in the state of Georgia, 
is located on the south-west bank of the Savannah riv- 
er, about 17 miles from the bar at its mouth. The city 
is built on elevated ground, and exhibits a beautiful ap- 
pearance from the water ; its tall spires and other pub- 
lic buildings, with the groves of trees planted along its 
streets, giving it an air of peculiar fascination. The 
streets are wide and regularly laid out, and the build- 
ings, together with the public squares, of which there 
are ten, exhibit much taste and elegance. Of the pub- 
lic buildings, the city contains a court house, jail, hos- 
pital, theatre, exchange, a public library, 3 banks, and 
10 churches. The Presbyterian church is an elegant 
and spacious edifice of stone. The Exchange is a large 
building, 5 stories high. The academy, partly of brick, 
and partly of stone, is 180 feet front, 60 feet wide, and 
3 stories high. Savannah is by far the most important 
commercial town in Georgia, and is the great mart of 
the cotton planters for an extensive and well settled re- 
gion of country. Steam boats ply regularly between 
Savannah and Charleston, distance 110 miles, as fol- 
lows : 



20 



FROM SAVANNAH TO CHARLESTON, 



Miles. 

Tybee Sound, 12 

Port Republican,. .. . 25 

Beaufort, 10 

South Edisto, 18 



Miles. 
North Edisto Sound,. 10 

Light House, 25 

Charleston Bar, 3 

Charleston, 7 



By land, the distance between the two cities is 118 
miles, as follows : 



Miles. 
From Savannah to 

Beck's Ferry, on 

the Savannah r... . 25 

Fitch's Eclian road,. . 1 9 

Coosauhatchie, 4 

Pocotaligo, 6 

Saltketcher Church,. 7 



Miles. 

Thompson's Tavern,. 9 

Poii4)on P. Office,.... 11 

Jackson Borough,. ... 3 

Hick's Tavern, 10 

Green's Tavern, 10 

Ashley Rivcr,. 8 

Charleston, 6 



On this route, the tourist crosses the Savannah river 
which is navigable for steam boats to Augusta, 10.5 
miles above Savannah having its rise 1 50 miles north- 
west of the former place ; 

The Coosauhatchie river, which rises 47 miles north- 
west of the village of that name, and falls into the Coo- 
saw river, 6 miles south-east ; 

The Cambahee river, which rises 75 miles north-west 
of Saltketcher, and falls into St. Helena Sound, 18 
miles south-east from that place ; 

The Edisto river, which rises 90 miles north-west of 
Jacksonboro', and falls into the Atlantic ocean 20 miles 
south-east ; and 

The Ashley river, which rises about 40 miles north- 
west of Charleston. 

This route is interspersed with rice and cotton plan- 
tations, and several handsome country seats of the op- 



CIIARLESTCX. 21 

viient ovners of ihe soil. In the spring, the whole face 
of the country assumes a richness of verdure highly pic- 
turesque and romantic ; which, however, becomes dried 
and withered during the buriving heat of a summer's 
sun. 

CHARLESTON, 

The metropolis of South Carolina, is alike distin- 
guished for the opulence and hospitality of its inhabi- 
tants. On entering the city from the bay, an interest- 
ing prospect is presented. The glittering spires of its 
public edifices are well calculated to give animation to 
the scene. Some of its streets are extremely beautiful, 
and many of the houses are truly elegant. Orange 
trees, in the early part of the season, laden with fruit, 
and peech trees clothed with blossoms, meet the eye of 
the traveller, and united with the climate of the coun- 
try at that time, render Charleston one of the most at-- 
tractive cities in the union. The society is refined, in- 
telligent, frank and affable. 

The city was founded and made the seat of govern- 
ment of the state in 1680. It stands on a dead level 
with the sea, two noble rivers, the Ashley and the 
Cooper, enclosing it on a wide peninsula called the 
Neck. Most of the houses contain a piazza, extending 
from the ground to the top, giving to the rooms in each 
story a shady open walk. Except in the commercial 
parts of the town, the houses, which are mostly paint- 
ed white, are generally surrounded with gardens, trees 
and shrubbery, giving to them a pecuharly romantie 
and rich appearance. 



12 CHARLESTON, 

The most celebrated edifices of this city, are the Or- 
phan Asylum and the Circular Church. The for- 
mer is one of the best institutions of the kind in the Uni- 
ted States. It maintains and educates 130 orphan chil- 
dren, and is highly honorable to the characteristic hu- 
manity and benevolence of the place, and a happy illus- 
tration of the tone of public feeling. The other pubhc 
buildings are 10 or 12 in number, exclusive of about 20 
churches. The city library is one of the beat in the 
union, and contains nearly 14,000 volumes. 

A rail road from Charleston to Hamburgh, on the 
Savannah river, opposite Augusta, 135 miles, was fin- 
ished in 1833. The charter was granted in January, 
1828, and the books openened in the following March ; 
but a small portion only of the stock was taken, yet the 
company was organized, and proceeded to collect such 
facts as would shed light upon the undertaking. In 
the winter of 1828, '29, an experimental line of survey 
was executed, and in the winter of 1829, '30, the route 
was explored by Mr. Horatio Allen ; in the mean time 
a section of three or four miles was constructed and put 
into operation ; doubts and fears were in a measure 
dispelled, and by great exertion the subscription to the 
etock was increased to $600,000, in August, 1830, 
when the afiairs of the company assumed a promis- 
ing aspect, and the work progressed rapidly to a con- 
summation. In the construction of this road wood 
alone is used, with the exception of a flat bar of iron 
on the surface. Piles are driven into the earth on 
each side of the path, on the top of which and at right 
angles with the path, a sleeper is placed ; the rail 
of wood, six by ten inches square, is fastened ta 



SULLIVAN'S ISLAND. 23 

tion, and very liable to decay ; it. however answers 
present purposes, and will enable the company to re- 
build tlie road at a future period, of more permanent 
materials, and at a much less expense. Steam car- 
riages are alone used on the road. This communica- 
tion with the interior will prove of great importance to 
the city as well as country, and the receipts, it is be- 
lieved, will give a fair dividend to the stockholders. 

Sullivan's Island, v/hich lays at the distance of 
7 miles from the city, at the entrance of the harbor, 
is a spot consecrated as the theatre of important 
events during the revolution. On this island is Fort 
Moultrie, rendered glorious by the unyielding des- 
peration with which it sustained the attack of the Brit- 
ish fleet in the war of our independence. The fleet 
consisted of about fifty sail ; and on the first annuncia- 
tion of its approach, lay v/ithin six leagues of the island. 
It was a time of awful and anxious suspense to the 
garrison in the fort, and to the inhabitants of the city. 
The public mind had become deeply impressed with 
ideas of Enghsh valor ; and diffident of its own pow- 
er, looked with painful anxiety towards the issue of the 
coming contest. 

About this period a proclamation reached the shore, 
under the sanction of a flag, in which the British com- 
mander, Sir Henry Clinton, held out the promise of 
pardon to all who would resign their arms and co-ope- 
rate in the rc-establishment of loyalty. But the royal 
proposition met with the rejection which it deserved. 
The militia of the adjacent country crowded the streets 
the sleepers. This is a very cheap mode of construe- 
b2 



24 EUI.LIVAN's iSLANt). 

of Charlsston ; the citizens threw down their imple'* 
ments of industry and grasped their arms in defence of 
their native city. On the 28th of June, 1776, Fort 
Moultrie was attacked by about ten ships, frigates and 
sloops, and was defended in a manner that w^ould have 
honored the heroic veterans of Greece or Rome. 

During this engagement, the inhabitants stood at 
their respective posts, prepared to meet the advancing 
foe* They had determined to grapple with the enemy 
as he landed, and surrender their liberty only with their 
lives. But so manfully did the garrison withstand the 
conflict, that the fleet was compelled to withdraw, leav- 
ing the inhabitants in the unmolested enjoyment of 
their rights. 

The influence of this expedition was most auspicious 
to the cause of American liberty. It strengthened the 
trembling hopes and dispersed the fears of the inhabi- 
tants. They had seen the result of this attempt, and 
now felt the triumphant assurance that the sacred 
cause in which they had enlisted would eventually suc- 
ceed. 

The communication between Charleston and New* 
York is rendered frequent by convenient and com- 
modious steam and other packets that ply from one 
place to the other. A journey by land, until reaching 
Norfolk, is tedious and uninteresting ; the public inns, 
except in the large towns, are generally poor, and a 
Voyage by water is the uniform choice of the fashiona- 
ble and genteel portion of the community. 

The distance by vv^ater from Charleston to New- 
York is G70 miles, and the intermediate distances arc 
as follows : 



FROM CHARLESTOK tO NORtOLK. 



S5 



Miles. 

Off Cape Fear, 120 

Cape Look Out,. 75 
Cape Hatteras, . . 78 
Capes of Virginia, 140 
Cape May, 120 



Miles, 
Off Barnegat Inlet,., 70 

The Bar, 45 

Sandy Hook, 3 

The Narrows, 11 

New-York, 8 



FROM CHARLESTON TO NORFOLK, 
by the coast, 
Is 419 miles, and the intermediate distances are as 
follows : 



Miles. 
By land. 

Greenwich, 4 

Wapetan Church, .... 15 

Tweeden Cottons,. .. . 17 

Santee R., S. Branch,. 10 

N. Branch, 2 

Georgetown, 14 

On the Sands, 20 

Varenes, N. C 13 

Smithville, 26 

Brunswick, 12 

Wilmington, 18 

Hermitage, 6 

S. Washington, 24 

Rhode's, 24 

The Santee, passed on this route, is the principal riv- 
er in South Carolina. It is formed by a union of the 
Congaree and Wateree about 25 miles south east of 
Columbia, and falls into the ocean by two mouths 
about 12 miles south-east from where it is crossed. A 
canal 22 miles long, connects the Santee with Cooper 
river, through which large quantities of produce are 
annually conveyed to Charleston. 



Miles. 

Trenton 11 

Newbern, 20 

VN^ashing ton, 35 

Plymouth, 35 

Mouth of Roanoke R. 8 

By steam boat. 
Wade's Point, Albe- 
marle Sound, 45 

Elizabeth City, 17 

By land. 
Pasquotank River, ... 12 
N. Carolina state line, 10 

Portsmouth, 20 

Norfolk, 1 



26 FROM CHARLESTON TO NORFOLK^ 

Georgetown, the capital of the district of that name, 
is located on Winyaw bay, near the mouth of the Pe- 
dee river, and 13 miles from the ocean. It contains a 
population of between 2 and 3000 inhabitants, and is a 
place of very considerable trade. 

Wilmington, N. C. is the capital of New-Hanover 
county. It is situated on the north east side of Cape 
Fear river, just below a union of its branches, to which 
place the river is navigable for vessels. The town con- 
tains a court house, jail, academy, 2 banks, 2 churches, 
and between 2 and 3000 inhabitants ; and is the great- 
est shipping port in the state. It was visited by a 
conflagration in 1819, by which 200 buildings, val- 
ued at $1,000,000, were destroyed ; and by another 
in 1828, in which 50 buildings were burned, valued at 
$130,000. 

Newbern is situated on the south side of Neuse riv- 
er, 30 miles from Pamlico Sound. It is the largest 
town in North Carolina, containing a population of 
nearly 4000 inhabitants. There are in this place a 
court house, jail, theatre, 2 banks and 3 churches. 

Washington is located on the north side of the Pam- 
lico river, and contains a population of about 1200 in- 
habitants. 

Plymouth, the capital of Washington county, is sit- 
uate on the north side of the Roanoke river, and 5 
miles from Albemarle Sound. 

The Roanoke river rises in the state of Virginia, pur- 
suing a crooked course to Albemarle Sound, into which 



FROM CHARLESTON TO NORFOLK. 27 

it empties by several channels, 230 miles from its 
source. It is navigable about 30 miles for vessels of 
considerable burtiien, and for boats, 70 miles. The 
banks are fertile and well settled. 

Mbemarle Sound is in the north-east part of North 
Carolina, on the coast. It extends from east to vilest 
62 miles, and is from 4 to 15 miles v^'ide. It is con- 
nected with Pamlico Sound by several narrow inlets, 
and with the Chesapeake Bay by a canal through the 
Dismal Swamp. 

A steam boat is taken at the mouth of the Roanoke 
across the Albemarle Sound to 

Elizabeth City, the capital of Pasquotank county, 
N. C. The town is located on the bank of the Pas* 
quotank river, which has its source in the Dismal 
Swamp. It contains a court house, jail and 4 church- 
es. From Elizabeth City the road to Norfolk lies on 
the bank of the canal, 23 miles long, cut through the 

Dismal Swamp. This swamp is a track of marshy 
land, generally covered with pine, juniper and cypress 
trees. It is 30 miles long from north to south, and 10 
broad. In the centre is Drummond's Pond, 15 miles in 
circumference. , i 

^Tple Canal, through this swamp, proves of immense 
advantage to the eastern section of North Carolina. 
Formerly their coasting trade was through the Ockra- 
cock inlet, by the tedious, hazardous and expensive sea 
route ; but the canal forms an easy, safe and cheap 
means of conveyance, and affords more extensive mar- 
kets. Near tbe centre of its extreme points is the junc- 



28 KORFOLK. 

tion of what is called the North West Canal, which is 
six miles long, and connects North West River (which 
empties into Currituck Sound in North Carolina) with 
the main canal, opening an avenue to market for the 
vast stores of timber in that section suitable for naval 
purposes, besides the various other products of the 
counti-y. On the main canal, the basin at Deep Creek 
is a beautiful sheet of water, half a mile long, and 1 5 
feet above tide water. The lockage is 40 feet ; and the 
locks, which are stone, are of the best workmanship. 

Portsmouth is pleasantly located on the south west 
side of Elizabeth river, opposite Norfolk. It contains a 
court-house, jail and 4 churches, and between 2 and 
SOOO inhabitants. 

Norfolk, the commercial capital of Virginia, is situ- 
ated on the east side of Elizabeth river, immediately be- 
low the junction of its two main branches, and eight 
miles above Hampton roads, and had a population, in 
1830, of 9,800. The town lies low, and is in some pla- 
ces marshy, though the principal streets are well paved. 
Among the public buildings are a theatre, 3 banks, an 
academy, marine hospital, atheneum, and 6 churches. 
The harbor, which is capacious and safe, is defined by 
several forts. One is on Craney island, near the mouth 
of Elizabeth river. There are also fortifications**at 
Hampton roads ; the principal of which. Fort Calhoun, 
is not yet completed. 

The J^avy Yard at Cosport, on the bank of the Eliza- 
beth river, nearly opposite Norfolk, is deserving the at- 
tention of strangers. A superb dock has been con- 
structed at this place, similar to that at Charlestownj 



PROM NORFOLK TO WASHINGTON. 



29 



near Boston. The length of the bottom, from the inner 
or foremost block, to that which is nearest the gates, is 
206 feet, besides 50 feet of spare room — sufficient to 
hold a small vessel. The width of the dock, at the top, 
is 86 feet. As the tide rises and falls but 3 or 4 feet, 
the water is pumped out^ when necessary, by steam 
engines. 

From Norfolk to Washington city or Baltimore, the 
routes are usually performed by steam-boats. The in- 
termediate distances are as follows : 



FROM NORFOLK TO WASHINGTON, 

195 miles,* 
Miles. 



Mouth of Ehzabeth 

river, 9 

Mouth of James river, 6 
Mouth of York river, 

Old Point Comfort, 20 

New Point Comfort, 10 

Rippahannock river,. 15 



Miles, 
Off Outlet St. Mary's 

river, 42 

Off Port Tobacco, ... 38 
Mouth of Potomac riv- 
er, 15 

Mount Vernon, 25 

Alexandria, 9 

Washington, 6 



* The route is down the Elizabeth river till it enters 
the Chesapeake Bay — thence up the bay to the mouth 
of the Potomac, which is entered, the boat proceeding 
up the river, and passing Mount Vernon and Alexan- 
dria, noticed at pages 38, 39. 



30 FROM NORFOLK TO RICHMOND. 

FROM NORFOLK TO BALTIMORE, 

191 miles. 



Miles. 
To the mouth of the 
Rappahannock, as 
in the precedinfj ta- 
ble, ^... 60 

Smith's Point, 25 

Outlet of Potomac, . . 10 
Outlet of Pautuxent 
river, 18 



JSIiles. 

Cone Point, 5 

Sharp's Island, 15 

Three Sisters, 16 

Annapolis, 10 

Sandy Point, 6 

Mouth of the Pataps- 

co river, 11 

Baltimore,* 15 



The Chesapeake Bay, the principal water commu- 
nication on the foregoing routes, stretches in a direction 
nearly north from the mouth of James river, or Lynha- 
ven Bay, to the mouth of the Susquehannah river, near 
the north hne of Maryland. It is 180 miles long, and 
varies from 10 to 25 miles in breadth, dividing the 
states of Virginia and Maryland into two parts, called 
the eastern and western shores. It has numerous com- 
modious harbors, and affords a safe navigation. Among 
the waters which flow into it, (commencing north,) are 
the Susquehannah, Potomac, Rappahannock, York 
and James rivers. It has been estimated that the Ches- 
apeake Bay, including its minor bays and inlets, con- 
tains an aggregate of 3600 square miles. 

FROM NORFOLK TO RICHMOND, 

The usual route is by water up the James river ; on 
which steam-boats are constantly plying between the 
two places. We, however, give the routes by land and 
v,'ater, with the intermediate distances : 

* See page 48. 



JAMESTOWN. 



31 



By water — 122 miles. 
JMiles. 
Mouth of Elizabeth r. 9 

Day's Point, JO 

Hog Island......... 16 

Swan's Point, 9 

Chickahomany r 4 

Fort Powhattan,. . . . 21 

Eppe's Island 17 

Chesterfield, ••'••••.. 23 
Richmond, 13 



By land — 110 miles. 

Miles. 
Mouth of Elizabeth r. 9 
Cross Hampton Roads 

to Hampton, 8 

Half-way House, 11 

York, 10 

Williamsburgh, 12 

Chiswell, _. 14 

Cumberland, 16 

Chickahomany river,.. 15 
Richmond, , 14 



Williamsburgh, 50 miles from Norfolk, is situated 
between York and James rivers, and was formerly the 
metropolis of the state. Its streets are regularly laid 
out, and many of the buildings are handsome. Wil- 
liam and Mary's College, located in this place, was 
founded in 1691, and was liberally endowed at that 
time by the reigning king and queen of England. It 
has a library of between 3 and 4000 volumes, and a val- 
uable philosophical apparatus. 



Jamestown, between 50 and 60 miles below Rich- 
mond, on the north side of James river, was founded 
in 1608, and was the first EngUsh settlement in the 
United States. The scite is a very beautiful one, and 
the settlement itself must have been but a few steps 
from the river. On each side there is a delightful and 
variegated succession of woodlands, meadoAvs, pas- 
tures, and green fields ; in front, appears the broad ex- 
panse of James river, with its multitude of white, glid- 
ing sails. The opposite hills are picturesque : some 
are entirely covered with woods ; others, partly clear- 
c 



32 



JAMESTOWN. 



ed, presenting, in tlie proper season, patches of white, 
wavy corn. To increase the richness of this scenery, 
here and there are distinguished the old and elegant 
mansions of the Virginia planters, hke points of beauty 
in a fine picture. 

No vestige of Jamestown is now to be seen, except 
the ruins of a church steeple, about 30 feet high, and 
fringed to its summit with running ivy. Near by is a 
burying ground with its venerable tombstones, and 
spotted with dark green shi-ubbery and melancholy 
flowers. It looks like a lonely, unfrequented place, 
and there is something deeply interesting in contem- 
plating these vestiges of an age gone by. 

In this scene of silence and solitude, the rude fore- 
fathers of the hamlet have, forages, rested. Nothing 
at this day remains but the land they cultivated, and 
the graves in which they repose ; but the places are 
well known, and with increasing years will grow more 
venerable and illustrious. 

The celebrated Pochahontas (daughter of the Indian 
chief Powhatan) was the tutelary guardian of this set- 
tlement ; and some of her descendants are now living 
in Virginia. iJtAmong the most distinguished, is the 
Hon. John Randolph. His descent is thus given in a 
Virginia paper : 

"Pochahontas was afterwards in London, in compa- 
ny with her husband, whose name was Rolf, an Eng- 
lishman by birth. She was presented to the King and 
Clueen, by Lady Delaware and her husband. She was 
present at several masquerades and assemblies, all 
which sights gave her great gratification. Soon after- 
wards, having embarked on board the ship George, 



RICHMOND. 33 

from London, for Virginia, she fell sick and died at 
Gravesend. 

" Her young child, Thomas Rolf, was left at Plym- 
outh, under the care of Sir Thomas Stukely, who de- 
sired to keep it. Pochahontas died in 1617, aged 23. 
Thomas Rolf, her son, afterwards became a citizen of 
Virginia. He left at his death a daughter ; this daugh- 
ter married Col. Robert Boiling, by whom she left an 
only son and five daughters, who were married respec- 
tively to Col, Richard Randolph, Col, John Fleming, 
Doct. William Gray, Mr. Thomas Eldridge, and Mr. 
James Murray. 

"The noble blood of Pochahontas flows in many 
veins ; and the late Orator of Roanoke, John Randolph, 
used to claim a descent from the daughter of Powhatan." 

I 

Richmond, the capital of Virginia, is situated on the '■ 

north bank of James river, directly at its lovv^er falls, at 
the head of tide water, and 150 miles from its mouth. 
The town rises in an acclivity from the water, and pre- 
sents a beautiful and highly picturesque appearance. 
A part of the town, on what is called Schockoe hill, 
overlooks the low^er part ; and from the capitol, which 
is on the greatest eminence, a most delightful prospect 
is had of the river and adjacent country. Besides the 
capitol, which is a handsome edifice, the city contains 
an elegant court house, a state prison, (which cost 
,$135,000) an alms house, 2 markets, a museum, an 
academy of fine arts, a female orphan asylum, 3 banks 
and 8 churches ; one of wdiich, built on the ruins of the ti 

theatre in the conflagration of which 90 citizens perish- ' 

ed, is very beautiful. At the Virginia armory, which is 



34 MON'TICELLO. 

erected here, are manufactured between 4 and 5000 
muskets and rifles annually. The population of the 
city in 1830, v/as 18,035. 

Manchester, directly opposite, is connected with 
Richmond by two substantial bridges, and is a flour- 
ishing place. 

. Among the many objects of attraction in Virginia, 
are Monticello, the former residence of ex-president 
JeflTerson, the Warm and Hot Springs, the Natural 
Bridge, and the Berkley Springs. 

Frmn Richmond to Monticello, the distance is 80 miles, 
in a north-westerly direction ; the road passing Gooch- 
land county line, distant 20 miles ; Fluvanna county 
line, 33; Gordonsville, 12; Milton, on the Rivanna 
river, 12; Monticello, 3. 

Monticello was much resorted to during the life 
time of its sage and philosopher ; and since his de- 
cease, the consecrated spot of his interment is a place 
of frequent visitation. It is thus described by a late 
traveller : 
m "I ascended the vvdnding road which leads from 

Charlottesville to Monticello. The path leads a cir- 
cuitous ascent of about 2 miles up the miniature moun- 
tain, on which stand the mansion, the farm, and the 
grave of Jefi:erson. On entering the gate which opens 
into the enclosure, numerous paths diverge in various 
directions, winding through beautiful groves to the 
summit of the hifl. From the peak on which the house 
stands, a grand and neaily illuminated view opens, of 
the thickly wooded hills nnd fertile vallies, which 



MONTICELLO. 35 

stretch out on either side. The University, with its 
dome, porticoes, and colonades, looks hke a fair city in 
the plain ; Charlottesville seems te be directly beneath. 
Ho spot can be imagined as combining greater advan- 
tages of grandeur, healthfulness and seclusion. The 
house is noble in its appearance ; two large columns 
support a portico, which extends from the wings, and 
into it the front door opens. The apartments are neat- 
ly furnished and embellished with statues, busts, por- 
traits and natural curiosities. The grounds and out 
houses have been neglected ; Mr. Jefferson's attention 
being absorbed from such personal concerns, by the 
cares attendant on the superintendence of the Univer- 
sity, which, when in health, he visited daily since its 
erection commenced. 

"At a short distance behind the mansion, in a quiet, 
shaded spot, the visitor sees a square enclosure, sur- 
rounded by a low unmortared stone wall, which he en- 
ters by a neat wooden gate. This is the family burial 
ground, containing 10 or 15 graves, none of them 
marked by epitaphs, and only a few distinguished by 
any memorial. On one side of this simple cemetry, is 
the resting place of the Patriot and Philosopher. When 
I saw it, the vault was just arched, and in readiness for 
the plain stone which is to cover it. May it ever con- 
tinue like V/ashington's, without any adventitious at- 
tractions or conspicuousness ; for, when we or our pos- 
terity need any other memento of our debt of honor to 
those names, than their simpte inscription on paper, 
w^ood or stone, gorgeous tombs would be a mockery to 

their memories. When gratitude shall cease to con- 

c2 



ZsC) KATURAL Bn!0fi£. 

Becrate their remembrance in the hearts of our citi- 
zens, no cenotaph will inspire the reverence we owe to 
them." 

From Monticello to the Warm Springs, is 91 miles, in 
a westerly direction, passing through Charlottesville 2 
miles, Rockfish Gap 24, Waynesboro' 2, Staunton 12, 
Cloverdale 28, Green Valley 10 ; from whence to the 
V/arm Springs is 13 miles. The temperature of these 
springs is about 96o, and sufficient water issues from 
them to turn a mill. They are used for bathing, and 
are esteemed valuable in rheumatic complaints. 

The Bath or Hot Spring is 5 miles farther. The 
stream is small ; but the temperature is much greater 
than that of the Warm Springs, being 112®. 

These springs flow into the Jackson, a source of the 
James river. 

The Natural Bridge is 150 miles west of Rich- 
mond, and by diverging to the left, without visiting 
Monticello, may be taken in the route to the Warm 
Springs. This bridge is over Cedar creek, in Rock- 
bridge county, 12 miles south west of Lexington, and 
is justly considered one of the greatest natural curiosi- 
ties in the world. The river at this place runs through 
a chasm in a hill. The chasm is 90 feet wide at the top, 
200 feet deep, and the sides almost perpendicular. The 
bridge is formed by a huge rock thrown completely 
across this chasm at the top. The rock forming the 
bridge is 60 feet broad in the middle, and is covered 
with earth and trees. It forms a sublime spectacle 



FROM RICHMOND TO WASHINGTON. 37 

Vvhen examined from the margin of the river be- 
neath.* 

FROM RICHMOND TO WASHINGTON CITY, 

120 miles. 
A stage is generally taken at Richmond for the mouth 
<if the Potomac creek, 9 miles beyond Frederick sburgh ; 
from whence steam boats pass up the Potomac to 
Washington. The intermediate . distances are as fol- 
lows : 



Bij stage. Miles 
From Richmond to 
Chickahomany riv- 
er, 10 

Hanover Court House, 10 
White Chimneys,. ... 10 
Mattapony river,.... 8 

Bowling Green, 6 

Vileboro', 8 



Miles. 
Frdencksburgh,. . . . 14 
Mouth of Potomac 

creek, 9 

By steam-boat. 

Mount Vernon, 30 

Alexandria, 9 

Washington, 6 



Fredericksburgh is situated on the south side of 
the Rappahannock river, 1 1 miles from its outlet into 

* A student of one of the Virginia colleges, a few 
years since, attempted the daring effort of climbing up 
one of the sides of this precipice. He had ascended 50 
or 60 fest before he was aware of the extreme hazard of 
the undertaking. It was then too late to retreat, and 
to progress seemed certain destruction. He, however, 
continued ascending from one crevice to another, hold- 
ing on the occasional protuberances of the rock, until 
he reached the top. But so arduous was the labor, 
that his hands and limbs were severely lacerated, and 
such was the effect on his mind of the perils and dan- 
gers encountered, that he became partially deranged, 
and never fully recovered the possession of his mental 
faculties. 



38 MOUNT VERNON. 

the Chesapeake Bay. It contains a court-house, jail, 
academy, 2 banks, 4 churcheS; and about 500 dwelUng 
houses ; and being near the head of navigation and 
surrounded by a fertile country, it enjoys an extensive 
and advantageous trade. 

The first object of immediate interest on ascending 
the Potomac, is 

Mou.vT Vernox,' on the south side of the river, 39 
miles froiTi the mouth of the Potomac creek. To this sa- 
cred spot the mind of every American recurs with the 
most enthusiastic devotion. He looks upon it as conse- 
crated ground. Here the immortal Washington, after 
having conducted the American armies forth to victory 
and independence, retired to enjoy the rich reward of 
his services in the warm hearted gratitude of his coun- 
trymen, and in the peaceful seclusion of private life. 

This place, till within a few years, w^as the residence 
of Judge Washington, the nephew of the General ; 
but after his decease in 1S29, the estate descended to a 
nephew of the Judge, John Adams Washington, who 
died in 1832 ; since which the estate has remained in 
the possession of the widow and children of the latter. 
The road to it is almost uninhabited, and difficult to 
trace. The house stands on an eminence, embracing a 
delightful view of the Potomac, with a rich and beauti- 
ful lawn extending in front to the river. 

The Tomb of Washington is visited as an inter- 
esting object of contemplation. The Old Tomb, so call- 
ed, in which the remains were originally interred, is 
fast going to decay ; but the new tomb, more remote 
from the river, the construction of which was commenc- 



ALEXANDRIA. 39 

ed by the General previous to his decease, and into 
which his remains were removed in 1830, is of sohd 
and enduring materials. Here slumber in peaceful si- 
lence the ashes of the great and patriotic Father of Lib- 
erty. No monument has yet been erected to his mem- 
ory ; and the only inscription on the tomb is the follow- 
ing: '•! am the resurrection and the life." 

Alexandria, an incorporated city, 9 miles farther, 
on the west bank of the river ; it is a place of extensive 
business and of fashionable resort during the sittings of 
congress. It contains a court house, 6 churches and 
a theological seminary. 

The Museum at this place, among other things, con- 
tains an elegant satin robe, scarlet on one side and white 
on the other, in which Gen. Washington was babtized; 
a penknife, with a pearl handle, given to him by his 
mother when he was in his twelfth yeai*, and which he 
kept fifty-six years ; a pearl huiton, from the coat he 
wore at his first inauguration as President of the Uni- 
ted States in the old City Hall, New- York ; a black 
glove, worn by him while in mourning for his mother ; 
part of the last stick of sealing %cax which he used; the 
original of the last letter xorilten by him, being a polite 
apology, in behalf of himself and Mrs. Washington, for 
declining an invitation to a ball at Alexandria ; it is 
penned with singular neatness, accuracy and precision, 
and contains this expression — " Alas ! our dancing days 
are over ;" a beautiful masonic apron, with the belt of 
scarlet satin and the white kid gloves worn by him the 
last time he shared in the social ceremonies of the 
'' mvstic tie." 



40 WASHINGTON CITY. 

The country between thivS city and the capital is but 
thinly inhabited, and the soil poor and unproductive ; 
but the road is good, and a ride to Alexandria consti- 
tutes one of the amusements of a winter at Wasliins- 
ton. 

WASHINGTON CITY 

Is 6 miles from Alexandria. As the seat of govern- 
ment of the Union, it is a place of much resort during 
the session of congress in the winter : but is mostly de- 
serted by strangers in the summer. It is situated on the 
Maryland side of the Potomac, and on a point of land 
formed by the junction of the Eastern Branch. The 
District of Columbia in which the city is located, was 
ceded to the United States by Maryland and Virginia 
in 1790, and in 1800 it became the seat of the general 
government. This District is about 10 miles square, 
lying on both sides of the Potomac, and is under the 
immediate direction of congress. 

The original plan of Washington when completed, 
its public edifices, and the elegance of its situation, will 
render it one of the most splendid cities in the world. 

The Capitol stands on a high and lofty eminence, 
and commands a delightful prospect of the Pennsylva- 
nia Avenue, the President's House, Georgetown and 
the Potomac, the General Posl -Office, the Navy Yard, 
Greenleaf's Point, the bridge on the river, and the road 
to Alexandria and Mount Vernon. The capitol is built 
of white free stone, has two wings, and is a very mag- 
nificent edifice. 

The exterior exhibits a rusticated basement, of the 
hei ^ht of the first story ; the two other stories are com- 



WASHINGTON CITY. 41 

prised in a Corinthian elevation of pilasters and col- 
umns — the columns 30 feet in height, form a noble ad- 
vancing portico on the east, 160 feet in extent — the 
centre of which is crowned with a pediment of 80 feet 
span : a receding loggia of 100 feet extent, distinguish- 
es the centre of the west front. 

The building is surrounded by a balustrade of stone 
and covered with a lofty dome in the centre, and a flat 
dome on each wing. 

The Chamber of the House of Representatives is in the 
2d story of the south wing, and is semicircular, in the 
form of the ancient Grecian theatre ; the chord of the 
longest dimension is 96 feet, and the height to the high- 
est point of the domical ceiling is 60 feet. This room 
is surrounded by 24 columns of variegated native mar- 
ble, or hreccia, from the banks of the Potomac, with 
capitals of white Italian marble, carved after a speci- 
men of the Corinthian order, still remaining among the 
ruins of Athens, which stand on a base of free stone, 
and support a magnificent dome painted in a very rich 
and splendid style to represent that of the Pantheon of 
Rome, and executed by an interesting young Italian 
artist, named Bonani, who died A few years ago. In 
the centre of this dome is erected, to admit the light 
from above, a handsome cupola, from which is suspend- 
ed a massy bronze gilt chandelier of immense weight, 
which reaches within ten feet of the floor of the cham- 
ber. The speaker's chair is elevated and canopied, 
and on a level with the loggia or promenade for the 
members, consisting of columns and pilasters of mar- 
ble and stone. Above this, and under a sweeping arch 
near the dome, is placed the model of a coUosial figure 



42 WASHINGTON CITY. 

of Liberty, and on the entablature beneath is sculptur- 
ed an American Eagle. In front of the ciiuir and im- 
mediately over the entrance, stands a beautiful statue 
in marble representing Histm-y, recording the events of 
the nation. Between the columns is suspended fring- 
ed drapery of crimsoned moreens, festooned near the 
gallery to limit the sound and assist the hearing. A 
magnificent portrait of La Fayette, at full length, paint- 
ed by a French artist, decorates a panel on one side the 
loggia. 

The Senate Chamber in the north wing is of the same 
semicrcular form, 75 feet in its greatest length and 45 
high ; a screen of Ionic columns, with capitals after 
those of the temple of Minerva Polias, support a galle- 
ry to the east and form a loggia below, and a new gal- 
lery of iron pillars and railings of light and elegant 
structure projects from the circular Avails: the dome 
ceiling is enriched with square caissons of stucco. 

The walls are covered with straw colored drapery, 
between small pilasters of marble in the wall. Col- 
umns of breccia, or Potomac marble, support the east- 
ern gallery. 

The Rotundo comprehends the spacious area between 
the two wings of the structure, and is of a circular form. 
It is entirely of marble, (and so indeed is every perma- 
nent part of the capitol,) excepting the light doors cov- 
ered with green baize that lead out of it, and the frame 
of the skylight above. The height of the dome soars 
beyond the roof, and it may well be imagined, is most 
imposing and sublime. The floor is beautifully paved, 
and the sound of a single voice, uttering words in an 
ord'.nary tone, reverberates aloft Hke the faint rumbhng 



WASHINGTON CITY. 43 

of distant thunder. When two or more converse, there 
is an incessant roaring, absorbing the entire medium ot 
sound. Even tlie simple touch of a walking stick on 
the pavement distinctly echoes along the circumference, 
and dies away slowly in the capacious vault ; so ex- 
tremely elastic is the air within. There is nothing that 
equals it in this country ; and, of itself, it well deserves 
a journey to Washington, 

In the niches designedly left about fifteen feet from 
the floor, are four sculptured pieces as large as life, de- 
eigned to commemorate the aboriginal character and 
some of the prominent events in the early history of 
the country. The scene of the first device is laid in 
1773, and is designed to represent a fearful contest be- 
tween Daniel Boon, an early settler in one of the west- 
ern states, and an Indian chief. The second represents 
the landing of the Pilgrims at Plymouth in 1610. The 
third is a representation of William Penn and two In- 
dian chiefs in a treaty in 1682, under the memorable 
elm on the right bank of the Delaware, near Philadel- 
phia. And the fourth represents the narrow escape in 
1606 of Capt. John Smith, the first successful adven- 
turer in Virginia, from the uplifted war-club of King 
Powhatan. The figure of pochahontas, in the attitude 
of supplicating the mercy of her father in behalf of the 
mtended victim, is beautifully wrought, and the whole 
axhibits much elegance of design and workmanship. 
In the remaining niches, which are designed to be filled 
with paintings, are already placed the following, exe- 
cuted by the late Col. Trumbull, one of the aids of Gen. 
Washington: The Declaration of Independence; Sur- 
render of Gen. Bmgoyne; Surrender ofCoruwallis at 

D 



44 ^VASHIXGTON CITt. 

Yorktown ; and the Resignation of Gen. Washington 
at Annapolis, Dec. 23, 1 783. The figures in these paint- 
ings are full length, and are said to be excellent like- 
nesses. The designs and execution are admirable, and 
exhibit the great and almost unrivalled talent of the 
artist. 

The Library. — Passing from the Pv.otundo, westerly, 
along the gallery of the principal stairs, the Library room 
door presents itself. This room is 92 feet long, 34 
wide, and 36 high. It is divided into twelve arched al- 
coves, ornamented with fluted pilasters, copied from 
the pillars in the celebrated Octagon Tower at Athens. 
At the entrance, in the centre of the room, which is ap- 
proached from the great central Rotundo, are two col- 
umns of stone, with capitals corresponding with those of 
the pilasters, and immediately opposite and fronting the 
window which leads into the western colonnade, stand 
two similar columns of stone. These pillars, with al- 
coves, support two galleries, extending nearly the whole 
length of the room on both sides, and divided into the 
same number of shelved recesses as the lower apart- 
ment. From these recesses springs the arch which 
forms the ceiling, elegantly ornamented with rich stuc- 
co borders, panels^ and wreaths of flowers. On the 
roof, which is about ten feet above the ceiling, are 
three sky lights, the walls of which are beautifully dec- 
orated with stucco ornaments. The principal apart- 
ments, as well as the committee rooms on the north 
attached to it, are handsomely furnished with sofas, 
mahogany tables, desks, Brussels carpetting, &c. 

This extensive collection of books contains at pres- 
ent about fourteen thousand volumes, in various Ian- 



WASHINGTON CITY. 45- 

guages. The library is well chosen. The classical 
department, in particular comprises many rare books, 
Mr. Jefferson's arrangement of them is still preserved, 
founded, it is presumed, on Bacon's classification of 
science ; and they are divided into chapters, according 
to the subjects to which they relate. 

Besides the principal rooms above mentioned, two 
others deserve notice, from the peculiarity of their 
architecture — the round apartment under the Rotun- 
do, enclosing 40 columns supporting ground arches, 
which form the flower of the Rotundo. This room is 
similar to the substructions of the European Cathe- 
drals, and may take the name of Crypet from them. 
The other room is used by the Supreme Court of the 
United States, and is of the same style of architecture, 
with a bold and curious arched ceiling — the columns 
of these rooms are of massy Dorick, imitated from 
the temples of Postum. Twenty-five other rooms, of 
various sizes, are appropriated to the officers of the 
two houses of congress and of the Supreme Court, 
and 45 to the use of committees ; they are all vault- 
ed and floored with brick and stone. Three princi- 
pal stair cases are spacious and varied in their form j 
these, with the vestibules and numerous corridors or 
passages, it would be difficult to describe intelligibly. 
We will only say, that they are in conformity to the 
dignity of the building and style of the parts already 
named. 

The East Front presents three marble figures, rep- 
resenting the Genius of America, Hope and Justice. 
They are executed with much taste and judgment, and 
present an imposing appearance. 



46 WASHINGTON CITY. 

Fronting the capitol, towards the Pennsylvaniu Ave- 
nue, and within an oblong marble vase, is a naval mon- 
ument, originally erected at the navy yard, in memory 
of the American officers who fell in the Tripolitan war. 
It is simple column, wrought in Italy at the expense of 
the survivors. 

The Presidenfs House, which is also constructed of 
white free stone, two stories high, with four spacious 
buildings* near it for the accommodation of the heads of 
department, make together an interesting spectacle for 
the visitant. 

Perhaps there is no spot in the United States that 
holds out more inducements to a traveller than this city 
during the sessions of congress. It is the theatre on 
w'hich the pride and power of the American nation are 
congregated to control the destinies of a mighty people. 
It is the residence of all the foreign ministers, and em- 
braces a large portion of the gay and fashionable world. 
The levees at the house of the president are fascinat- 
ing ; and the apartments on these occasions are open 
and accessible to every citizen of the republic. 

Among other places of interest at and near Wash- 
ington, and which deserves the attention of visitants, are 
the Navy Yard ; the Columbian College, situate on a 
high range of ground north of the city, and about a 
mile from the President's House ; and the National 
Burying Ground, about a mile south east of the capitol. 



* One of these buildings, occupied by the department 
of slate, was burnt in 1833. 



GEORGETOWKf. 47 

The ground on which Washington is built is higli, 
airy and salubrious ; and'the city, from the extent of its 
territory, presents the appearance of several distinct 
villages. It is however rapidly increasing and improv- 
ing, and contained in 1830 a population of 18,837. 

Its principal public houses are the National Hotel, 
one of the most splendid in the U. S. ; the Indian 
Clueen Hotel ; and the Mansion Hotel. They are all 
located on the Pennsylvania Avenue. 

Georgetown is on the same s'de of the Potomac 
with Washington, at the distance of 3 miles west of the 
capitol. It is very pleasantly situated, and is a place of 
considerable trade. The country around it is richly di- 
versified, and the location of the Catholic Monastery 
is very dehghtful. It stands on the borders of "the 
heights," in the north west part of the town, and over- 
looks the body of the town below. The enclosure em- 
braces about one acre. On the north side is the acade- 
my conducted by the nuns, consisting of a long range 
of buildings three stories high. In the middle of the 
front or eastern side stands tne chapel. On the left of 
the chapel is the room of the father confessor, and al- 
so the private apartment of the nuns, into which noun- 
hallowed tread of the worldly and profane is ever ad- 
mitted. 

The Academy, or High School for Ladies, is the 
most interesting appendages of the convent. It contains 
a boarding school of upwards of one hundred pupils, 
and a free or charity school of a much larger number of 
day scholars. What strikes the visitor with most pleas- 
ure is the perfect system and order with which every 



48 CHESAPEAKE AND OHIO CANAL. 

thing is done. The young misses who compose tha 
school are regularly and rigidly trained to do every 

thing on plan and method. 

The seminary is divided into four classes. The hall 
of the first class contains an extensive cabinet of min-= 
erals, to which many rare and valuable specimens have 
been presented by the officers of our navy, and by cath' 
olics of the eastern world. It has also many rich spe- 
cimens of art; the contributions of wealthy and pow- 
erful patrons of the church. The sword, sheath and 
belt of Iturbide, once a hero of South America, two 
of whose daughters are now in this convent, were re- 
cently presented to the cabinet by Commodore Rogers. 
It also claims to have many sacred relics, such as shreds 
or scraps from the garments of numerous saints — frag^ 
ments from the church and tomb of St. Peter, and of 
other saints — pieces of the wood of the cross, &c. &c. 

The number of nuns in this convent, at present, is 
about sixty. Among them are descendants of rich and 
powerful families. Their employment consists in con- 
fessions, vigils, fasts, penances, reading and religious 
exercises, in teaching, in domestic concerns, and in 
making fine needle-work for sale. The charity school 
embraces about 200 day pupils. For their humanity 
and benevolence in collecting and teaching these chil- 
dren, the nuns deserve praise. In these employments 
they appear happy ; but the happiness of these devo- 
tees, if real, must be of the negative kind. 

The Chesapeake and Ohio Canal was commenc- 
ed on the 4th of July, 1828, but has not been prosecut- 



€^ with the vigor originally contemplated. It is to ex- 
tend from Georgetown, D. C. to near Pittsburgh, Penn., 
where it is to unite with the Pennsylvania canal and 
the Ohio river ; its length 360 miles, and its lockage 
4004 feet. 

FROM WASHINGTON TO BALTIMORE, 

38 miles. 
There are two lines of stages running daily between 
Washington and Baltimore, The intermediate distan- 
ces are as follows : 

Miles, j Miles 

Bladensburgh, ..,...,. 6 j Patapsco river, 9 

Vansville, , . 8 j G winn's Falls, 5 

Patuxent r. w. branch, . 3 I Baltimore, . . . , 3 

do e. branch, 4 j 

BALTIMORE. * 

The rapid growth and present extent and population 
of this city is truly remarkable, and to be ascribed no 
less to the spirit of enterprize which has always charac- 
terized its inhabitants, than to the natural advantages 
df its position. Its scite is on the north side, and at 
the head of tide water on the Patapsco river, 14 miles 
above its entrance into the Chesapeake. The centen- 
ary of its existence was celebrated in August, 1829. 
On the 8th of that month, in 1729, the first act was 
passed for laying out the town on sixty acres of land 
from which the native forests had then but partially giv- 

* For a principal part of the following description of 
Baltimore, the Editor is indebted to John S. Skinner, 
Esq. the P. Master of that city. 



od BALTlMuRg. 

en place to the axe and the plough. These sixty acrei 
were purchased at 40 shillings per acre, to be paid in 
money, or tobacco at one penny per pound. The pro- 
gress of the city at first was sluggish and unpromising. 
Thirty- three years after its location, (1752,) it contain- 
ed but twenty-five houses, and a small brig and sloop 
were the only vessels owned in the town. Even up to 
1773, the merchants were compelled to send their ad- 
vertisments to Annapolis or Philadelphia, there being 
no newspaper then published in Baltimore, Now, with 
its population rising above 80,000, it may be consider- 
ed the third city in the union ; whilst for its various 
manufactories and public buildings, ornamental to the 
city and remarkable for their costliness, taste andcom- 
tnodiousness, it stands undoubtedly in the first rank for 
enterprise and public spirit. For tobacco and flour, 
Baltimore is the leading market ; for flovir, the first in 
the world. Within 20 miles around, the water power 
is almost incalculable. It drives at present more than 
sixty flour mills, one of which has turned out 32,000 
barrels in one year. There are, too, within that com- 
pass, twelve cotton manufactories, keeping in motion 
30,000 spindles, besides manufactories of cloth, powder, 
paper, iron, glass, steam engines, extensive chemical 
works, and one mill by steam power for manufacturing 
flour and copper, that has turned off" 200 barrels a day, 
and works anually about 600,000 pounds of raw cop- 
per. Many of these may conveniently be visited by so- 
journers in the city, on foot or by short rides in the im- 
mediate vicinity. 

The city, as re-chartered in 1816, contains 10,000 
acres, and] embraces within the limits built upon, a 



BALTIMORE. 51 

court house, jail, penitentiary, lunatic asylum, two the- 
atres, the largest circus in America, an exchange, an 
observatory founded by the father of the gallant Com- 
modore Porter, two museums, five market houses, ten 
banks, gas works, (the first in this country for lighting 
the streets and houses,) a public library, a medical col- 
lege, and 45 houses of public worship. 

Most of these establishments would be worthy of the 
regard of tourists. It cannot be expected that we 
should describe them minutely, our object being but 
briefly to indicate their existence ; but almost all stran- 
gers make a visit to the cathedral, the exchange, the 
public fountains, of which there are four tastefully or- 
namented and giving a copious supply of pure spring 
water; the museums, the monuments, and the rail 
roads. 

The Cathedral is built after the Grecian Ionic or- 
der, on a plan drawn by that distinguished and lament- 
ed architect, the late H. B. Latrode. Its outward length 
is 190 feet, its width 177, and its height to the summit 
of the cross that surmounts the dome is 127 feet. A 
mmute description of the numerous ornaments and 
specimens of taste in the fine arts that abound in this 
magnificent building, would be incompatible with the 
plan of this work ; but we may advise the tourist that 
amongst others, it contains the largest organ in the 
United States, with 6000 pipes and 36 stops, and two 
very splendid paintings— one the decent from the cross, 
by Paulin Guerin, a present from Louis XVI—anoth- 
er, presented by the present King of France, represent- 
mg St. Louis, attended by his chaplain and armor-bear- 
er, burying one of his officers slain before Tunis, as an 



52 BALTIMORE. 

encouragement to his officers and soldiers, who,for fear 
of contagion, would have left their comrades to bo de- 
voured by beasts and birds of prey.* 

The Merchants' Exchange, built by private sub- 
scription, is another monument to the public spirit of 
the citizens. This edifice, from "Water to Second, front- 
ing on Gay-street, is 255 by a depth on the two first of 
141 feet, and is three stories high exclusive of the base- 
ment. In the centre is the great hall, 86 feet by 53, 
lighted from the dome, which is 90 feet from the floor. 
In this hall, to which they have access by three entran- 
ces from the street?, the merchants convene daily from 
1 to 2 o'clock. 

On a scale corresponding with these buildings in ex- 
tent and convenience, according to their several de- 
signs and objects, the traveller may be edified and 
amused by an inspection of the other public edifices, 
which here we could only designate by name. Bat in 
any thing like a picture of Baltimore as a guide for the 
tourist, its monuments and its rail roads, leading to the 
Ohio and the Susquehannah, are decidedly the most 
striking features. The one called the Battle Monu- 
ment, an elegant marble structure about 55 feet high, 
was commenced on the cite of the old court house in 
Washington Sqare, on the 12th of September, 1815, 



*It was in this Cathedral that the funeral honors 
were paid to Charles Carroll, of Carrollton, the last 
BurvivincT signer of the Declaration of Independence. 
He died in the city on the 13th I\ov. 1832, and his re- 
mains were conveyed for interment to the vault on the 
premises oftlio family mansion, about 16 miles distant. 



BALTIMORE. 53 

m memory of those who, on the 12th and 13th of the 
same month in the preceding year, had fallen gallant- 
ly in defence of the city. 

Another splendid monument called the Washington 
Monument, built of white marble, ornamental to the 
city and honorable to its inhabitants, (but vain as 
an effort to extend the fame of him whose glory is as 
wide and imperishable as the empire of letters,) has 
been erected on an elevation a little north of the com- 
pact part of the city, presented for that purpose by the 
late Col. John E, Howard, the hero of Eutaw and of 
the Cowpens. The base is 50 feet square and 23 high, 
on which is placed another square of about half the ex- 
tent and elevation. On this, is a column 20 feet in di- 
ameter at the base, and 14 at the top. The colossal 
statue of Washington, the largest one in modern ages, 
is placed on the summit 163 feet from the ground. This 
monument is to be embellished with has reliefs and oth- 
er decorations. 

The Baltimore and Ohio Rail R.oad commences 
a short distance from the Washington turnpike road on 
West Pratt street, where the company have establish- 
ed a depot. Under the authority given by the City 
Council, a line of railway has also been laid from the 
termination of the main stem of the road, at the Depot, 
down Pratt street to the Basin, whence it is construct- 
ed to the City Block, and runs parallel with the entire 
water front of the city, communicating with all the 
wharves, and intersecting all the principal streets which 
extend northwesterly and southerly, as far down as the 
public property south of Jone's Falls, at which place 
there have been conveyed to the company, by the Cor- 



54 BALTIMORE, 

poration of Baltimore, two squares of the ground, fa- 
vorably situated for the convenient and economical 
transactions of an extensive commerce. An uninter- 
rupted communication is thus opened along the whole 
extent of the Road, between the Port of Baltimore and 
the Potomac river at the Point of Rocks, a distance of 
67^ miles ; from whence a lateral road 2 or 3 miles 
long, is completed to the city of Frederick. 

When completed, this road will extend to Pittsburgh, 
on the Ohio river, a distance of 300 miles from Balti- 
more. 

A double track has been laid most of the way to 
Frederick, and the travelling and transportation have 
thus far fully equalled the anticipations of the stock- 
holders. 

A ride as far at least as Ellicott's mills, 13 miles from 
Baltimore, is considered almost a matter of course by 
strangers visiting the city. The scenery on the route, 
being mostly in the vicinity of the Patapsco river, is 
picturesque and interesting. Among the works con- 
nected with the road, the CarroUtcn Viaduct, over 
Gwynn's Falls, about a mile and a half from the city, 
is one of the most magnificent pieces of architecture in 
America — alike beautiful in proportion, materials and 
workmanship. This bridge is built of a beautiful 
granite, contains one arch of about SO feet span, and 
40 feet in height, and is 312 feet in length from end to 
end of the parapets. 

The Jackson Bridge, is a single arch 109 feet long, 
of entirely novel structure, the invention of Col. Long, 
of the company's board of engineers. The Deep Cut 
through a high and broad ridge of land, is about three 



BALTIMORE. 55 

' ourths of a mile in length, its greatest depth 70 feet, 
and its width, at the summit of the ridge, 184 feet« 
Q,uantities of carbonized wood were found sixty feet 
below the natural surface, and a stump of a tree with 
its roots at forty feet. The entire excavation is 263,- 
848 cubic yards. The Great Embankment at Gadsby^s 
Ruiiy five miles from Baltimore, is nearly a mile in 
length, its greatest elevation 56 feet, and its greatest 
width 191 feet. At the top, the usual width of 26 feet 
is preserved for a double set of rails. Gadsbyh Run 
Viaduct affords a passage to the waters of the run 
through the embankment. The arch, composed of 
dressed granite blocks, is of the extraordinary width of 
120 feet from opening to opening. The Patterson Via- 
duct is an immense structure of granite, by which the 
road is carried to the opposite bank of the Patapsco. It 
is built of granite blocks, from one to seven tons in 
weight, and its entire length is 375 feet. It has four 
beautiful arches, the two centre ones each a span of 55 
feet, with extensive wings and water walls, abutments, 
&c. The height from the water to the crown of the 
arches is 30 feet. The corner stone of this structure 
was laid on the 6th May, 1829, and on the 4th of De- 
cember it was crossed on horseback by William Pat- 
terson, Esq. for whom the honor had been reserved, and 
whose name it bears. It embraces nearly 10,000 
perches of masonry. Besides these are the embank- 
ments at Stillhouse Run, two granite viaducts, the 
rock-side cutting at Buzzard's Rock, &c. 

The Baltimore and Susquehannah Rail Road, 
extending from Baltimore to York Haven, on the Sus- 
quchannah river, a distance of 60 miles, is also a work 

E 



66 BALTIMORr. 

cf much utility to Baltimore, and worthy the attention 
of tourists. 

For its houses for the accommodation of travellers, 
Baltimore is not remarkable, except for its City Hotel. 
This is the most splendid edifice of its kind in the un- 
ion, if not in the world. It is centrally and most con- 
veniently situated, presenting a front on Calvort street 
of 117 feet, running back 183 — taking in two spacious 
buildings formerly occupied as private residences, so 
connected with the establishment as to afford two dis- 
tinct private entrances on Fayette street, which lead to 
thirteen parlors arranged expressly for the accommoda- 
tion of private families, with chambers so connected 
with them as to make them as convenient for ladies and 
children as any private house. The City Hotel con- 
tains 172 apartments, and was built expressly for a ho- 
tel, under the direction of its experienced proprietor, 
Mr. Barnum. In the basement of the building on Cal- 
vert street is situated the Post-Office, into which the 
traveller may deposit his letters by a conduit from the 
large Reading Room above, where he can peruse, 
gratuitously, the papers from all parts of the union. 
There are also in the basement the officers of the Amer- 
ican Turf Register and of the American Farmer, as al- 
so the General Stage Office of Stockton & Stokes. All 
the mail coaches start from tliis hotel. To all other con- 
veniences combined in this establishment which travel- 
lers can desire, is added an observatory on the top of it, 
constructed expressly to afford to its guests vievvs of the 
Harbor and Fort M'Henry, and tha town, and the 
country seats that surround it. 



BALTIMORE. S7 

The Indian GIueen, the next largest establishment, 
is well and liberally kept by Mr. Beltzhover, its oblig- 
ing and popular tenant. 

And here we may close this sketch of that patriotic 
city by the remark, that it is in nothing more distin- 
guished from our other large cities, than by the heauhj 
of its environs. A succession of elevated scites rising 
one above another encircle it from the Philadelphia 
road on the east to the Washington turnpike on the 
west. From these eminences the stranger obtains, at a 
single coup Wcsil, a view of the town and its numerous 
approaches by land and water, its monuments, its 
domes, its steeples and its towers. 

Some of these heights are crowned with private resi- 
dences, displayino" all the taste and magnificence that 
characterize the seats of European opulence and refine- 
ment. Of these, the most expensively embeUished and 
conspicuous is " Green Mount," the elegant sum- 
mer retreat of a gentleman whose tase and hospitality 
happily correspond with his ample possessions. To 
the splendid mansion, with all its incidental accommo- 
dations, on the most extensive and liberal scale, is con- 
nected a circular promenade of three quarters of a mile 
in length, overshadowed by trees from every clime, 
tempting to healthful exercise, and offering on either 
hand every variety of fruit and flower that cultivated 
nature has prepared to delight the eye and gratify the 
palate. Whilst for the benevolent proprietor a senti- 
ment of universal and profound respect consecrates his 
100 acres that border on this line of the city, guarding 
them from the hand of depredation, strangers entitled 
to consideration visit Green Mount without difficulty, 
and admire it without measure. 



58 



FROM BALTIMORE TO PniLADELPHI^. 



FROM BALTIMORE TO PHILADELPHIA. 

A daily land or Avater route can be taken ; but since 
the completion of the FrenchtoAvn and New-Castle 
Rail Road, the latter is generally preferred. Both 
routes, however, are given, with the intermediate dis- 
tances : 

Stage Route — 101 miles. 



Miles. 
From Baltimore to 

Herring's R-un, . ,. 4 

Bird's Rmi, 8 

Great Gunpowder 

falls, 3 

Little do 2 

Winter's Run, 4 

Hartford,.^ 4 

Havre de Grace, .... 11 

Susquehannah river,. 1 

Charleston, 5 

North East river, .... 2 



Miles. 

Elkton, 8 

Big Elk Creek, 1 

Delaware state line,. 2 

Christiana Creek, ... 3 

Christiana, 5 

Newport, 5 

Wilmington,* 4 

Brandvwine Creek,. . 1 

Chester, 13 

Darby, 8 

Schuylkill river, 6 

Philadelphia, 1 



* Wilmington, a port of entry and the largest town 
in the state of Delaware, is the only place of much im- 
portance on this route. The town is situated between 
Christiana and Brandywine creeks, 1 mile above their 
confluence, and 2 miles west of the Delaware river. 
The great facilities afforded here make it an important 
manufacturing town ; it having some of the finest flour- 
ing mills and cotton factories in the union. It contains 
from 10 to 12,000 inhabitants, a spacious alms-house, 
3 banks, a U. S. arsenal and 9 churches. An ancient 
building, called the old Swedish church, erected in 
1698, stands near the Christiana creek in this town ; 
opposite to which is an ancient church-yard, used by 
the first settlcrr. of the place. It contain:; a few tomb- 
stones, the inscriptions of which arc nearly defaced by 
the hand of time. 



^ROM BALTIMORE TO PHILADELPHIA. 63 

Steam Boat and Rail Road Route — 115^ miles. 
Miles. 
By Steam boat. 
Prom Baltimore to 

FortM'Heniy, 3 

Sparrow's Point, 6 

North Point, 4 

Miller's Island,.. 8 

Pool's Island, S 

Grove Point, 16 

Turkey Point, 6 

French Town,. 13 



Miles. 
By rail road. 
From French Town, 
Md. to Is'ew Cas- 
tle, Del 161 

By steam boat, 
Christiana Creek, Del. 5 
Marcus Hook, Penn. 8 

Chester, , 4 

Lazaretto, 5 

Fort?vlifflin, 5 

Philadelphia, 8 

This route is usually performed in from 9 to 10 hours. 

North Point, 13 miles from Baltimore, is the spot 
where the British troops landed in Sept, 1814, and 
where a battle was fought, simultaneous with a naval 
attack on Fort M'Henry. The engagement resulted in 
the defeat of the British, and the death of their com- 
mander. Gen. Ross. 

From this point until reaching Turkey Point, at the 
mouth of Elk river, the Chesapeake presents a broad 
expanse and beautiful sheet of water, interspersed with 
an occasional island ; of which Pool's is the largest 
and the most picturesque. On approaching the mouth 
of the Elk river, the broad entrance of the Susquehan- 
nah is seen at the left ; near which is discerned the 
village of Havre de Grace, which was burnt during the 
last war. Eight miles from Turkey Point, up the Elk 
river, the entrance of Back Creek, connected with the 
Chesapeake and Delaware canal, is seen at the right.* 

* Until the construction of the French Town and 
New-Castle rail road, the route of travellers was gene- 
e2 



60 FROM BALTIMORE TO PHILADELPHIA. 

At French Town, passengers leave the steam boat 
(their baggage having been previously placed in bag- 
gage waggons,) and take the carriages of the Rail 
Road, which extends to New Castle, on the Delaware, 
a distance of 16^ miles, being but 853 yards more than 
would be a perfectly straight line drawn from one end 
to the other. It is composed of six curves and six 
straight lines, three of the curves deflecting to the north 
and three to the south. The whole amount of excava- 
tion is about 500,000 cubic yards of earth, exclusive of 



rally through this canal, in packets fitted up for the pur- 
pose. It is now, however, used principally for sloopa 
plying between the Chesapeake Bay and Delaware riv- 
er. Back Creek, a narrow and tortious stream, is pur- 
sued for 3 miles to a village called Chesapeake city, 
where the canal commences, which is 14 miles long, 33 ' 
feet wide at the bottom, and 60 feet at the suiface. It 
is calculated for the passage of vessels drawing 8 feet 
of water, though the banks are constructed so as to re- 
tain 10 feet, if necessary. There are two tide and two 
hft locks, and the sumu)it level is a little more than 9 
miles long, and 10 feet aliove ordinary flood tide. Be- 
tween 2 and 3 miles from Chesapeake village com- 
mences what is called the Deep Cut. Its ^length is 
nearly four miles, and the embankments vary fiom 8 
to 70 feet in height. To furnish something of an idea 
^ of the magnitude of the work, it is stated that the earth 

■) excavated to form this part of the canal and the neces- 

" sary drains was more than 90 millions of cubic feet. 

At the greatest elevation a most imposing work, called 
Summit Bridge, has been extended across. It is built 
on a hard firm bank where the original surface attains 
an elevation of 65 feet, above which the abutments are 
built 20 feet in thickness. The sides of the canal be- 
low the abutments arc projected hy a .slope wall laid 



FROM BALTIMORE TO PIIILADELrHIA. Gl 

the side drains, which arc on a magnificent scale. The 
amount of embankment is about 420,000 cubic yards. 
At two points the excavation has been attended with 
great difficulty and expense, especially at the western 
termination of the road, M'here the cutting was 37 feet 
deep, through a solid mass of tough red and black clay 
for a considerable distance. 

There are six principal embankments, varying in 
length from twelve hundred to three thousand feet each, 
and in hei£:ht from fifteen totwentv-five feet each. 



from the bottom of the canal to the top of the bank, 
from six to two feet in thickness. The floor of the 
bridge is 90 feet above the bottom of the canal ; ex- 
treme length 280 feet. Independently of the interest 
excited by the bridge, the view of the canal from its 
commanding height is grand beyond description. A 
flight of steps have been erected, to facilitate the as- 
cent from the tow-path up the bank. 

After leaving the Deep Cut, the canal enters what 
is called The Old Mill Pond, three miles beyond the 
Cramberry Marshes. Three miles farther are the St. 
George's Marshes, the forming of the biuiks of the ca- 
nal through which was an immense labor. The spe- 
cific gravity of the earth used for the purpose exceed- 
ing that of the surrounding marshes, it sunk in many 
places as fast as it could be carted on, and in some in- 
stances it is calculated to have gone to a depth of from 
60 to 80 feet, and in one place 100 feet below the orig- 
inal surface, raising many acres ofthe adjacent marshes 
several feet above their original level. 

At the eastern termination of the canal, the City of 
Delaware has sprung up like many of the flourishing 
villages on {he bank.s of the Erie canal in Nevr-York, 
and will probably become a place of considerable im- 
portance. 



63 FROM BALTIMORE TO PHILADELtHIA. 

The road crosses four bridges or viaducts, varying in 
dimensions from 12 feet by 10, to 5 feet by 6 ; and 29 
culverts, varying from 12 by 4, to 2 feet by 2. The 
whole of the bridges and culverts are of substantial 
stone masonry. The width of the road bed is 26 feet 
exclusive of the side drains. It is fenced on both sides 
its whole length, the fences enclosing an area of never 
less than 70 feet in width, and at the western deep cut 
of 170 feet. The superstructure of the road is formed 
partly of stone blocks containing two cubic feet of stone, 
each weighing about 360 lbs. and partly of substantial 
white oak sleepers, upon which are laid and secured 
in the most approved manner, the string pieces or rails, 
of Georgia pitch pine, 6 inches square ; on the top of 
these are fastened the iron bars 2| inches wide by |ths 
of an inch thick, with iron plates beneath them at the 
points of their junction. The inner edge of the string 
piece is chamfered off so as to bring the bearing of the 
iron bar nearly in the centre. 

The blocks are laid three feet apart from centre to 
centre, and bedded in holes two feet deep and two feet 
square, upon pure sand or gravel well rammed ; and 
where sleepers are used, on the embankments, &c. they 
are laid at the same distance apart, on sills of hemlock, 
four inches thick by eight inches wide, placed longitudi* 
nally, which are, in like manner, bedded in trenches fill- 
ed with sand or gravel well rammed — these substances 
being supposed to furnish the surest safeguard against 
injury from frost. 

The total cost of the New Castle and French Town 
rail road, including the land for its location, wharves, 
land at depots and both ends, locomotive engines, pas- 



PHILADELPHIA. 63 

sengers and burthen cars sufficient to put it in com- 
plete operation, with a single track and the requisite 
number of turn outs, has been estimated at about four 
hundred thousand dollars. 

The road Vv'as commenced in July, 1830, and was 
completed in 1832. 

The ancient town of New Castle, at which the road 
terminates, still retains one of its original buildings, the 
date of which, in figures of iron on the gable end, shows 
that it was erected in 1687. The town was settled by the 
Swedes, many of whose decendants still continue to 
reside there, and retain the plain frank manner and 
thinking habits of their ancestors. By means of a loco- 
motive engine, passengers are enabled to cross the pe- 
ninsula in one hour with ease, thereby shortening the 
time between Baltimore and Philadelphia 2h hours. 

At New Castle, a steam boat is again taken, which 
proceeds up the Delaware 35 miles, passing the city of 
Wilmington, which is seen at a distance on the left, 
and the villages of Chester, Lazaretto, Fort Mifflin on 
an island in the Delaware, and Gloucester, to 

PHILADELPHIA, 

The flourishing capital of Pennsylvania. It stands 
on the west bank of the river Delaware, five miles from 
its confluence with the Schuylkill, which forms its wes- 
tern boundary. This city was founded in 1GS2, and 
incorporated in 1701. The charter he'vAg abrogated at 
the revolution, it remained under a provincial govern- 
ment till 1789, when it was incorporated a second time. 
Its population in 1830, including its suburbs, was 167,- 
8i 1. The city is built on streets from 50 to 100 feet in 



64 PHILADELPHIA.. 

width, running parallel and at right angles to each oth' 
er. They are handsomely paved, and arc kept remark- 
ably clean. The houses exibit an appearance of neat- 
ness, uniformity and commodiousncss, and many of 
them are ornamented with white marble. Against the 
city, which is 90 miles distant from the sea, the Dela- 
ware is about a mile wide, and is navigable for ships of 
a large size. The most conspicuous buildings are the 
churches, the state house, the United States and Penn- 
sylvania Banks, the Girard Bank, and the Institution 
for the Deaf and Dumb. The Bank of the U. S. was 
cstabUshed in the year 1816, withacapital of $35, 000,- 
000. The banking house is a splendid structure, built 
on the plan of the Parthenon at Athens, and is situated 
in a north and south direction, fronting on Chestnut 
and Library streets, having 8 fluted columns, 4 feet 6 
inches in diameter, embracing the whole front. From 
each of the fronts are porticoes, projecting 10 feet 6 in- 
ches. The whole length of the edefice, including the 
portico, is 161 feet, and its breadth in front 87 feet. 
The main entrance is from Chestnut street, by a flight 
of six marble steps, extending along the whole front of 
the portico. The banking room occupies the centre of 
the building, being 48 feet wide and 8] feet long. The 
whole body of the building is arched in a bomb proof 
manner, from the cellar to the roof, which is covered 
with copper. 

There are in this city 90 houses for public worship ; 
13 banks, 7 insurance companies, a custom house, an 
exchange, and a chamber of commerce. 

The New Bank of Pennsylvania is an extensive 
and elegant ediflce of marble, of the Ionic order, and 



PIIILADELrniA. 65 

constructed after the model of the ancient temple of the 
muses, on the Ilyssus. 

The Pennsylvania Hospital is one of the oldest 
and most respectable institutions of that description in 
the Union. 

The State House, in which the continental congress 
sat, and from whence the Declaration of Independence 
issued, is still standing. It is located in Chestnut street, 
is built of brick, comprising a centre and two wings, and 
has undergone no material alteration since its first erec- 
tion. It has a venerable appearance, and is surmount- 
ed by a cupola, having a clock, the dial of which is 
glass, and is illuminated at night until 10 or 11 o'clock 
shewing the hour and minutes until that time. The 
front is a considerable distance back from the street, 
the walk being paved to the curb-stone with brick, and 
two elegant rows of trees extending its whole length. 
East of the main entrance, in the front room, the ses- 
sions of congress were held, and the question of inde- 
pendence decided. The declaration was first publicly 
read from the balcony fronting the spacious park in the 
rear. 

The Arcade in Philadelphia, like that at N. York, 
has proved a bad speculation — though the former is 
twice the size of the latter, and appears to be more de- 
serted. It contains Peale's Museum, one of the best in 
the United State,?, comprising the most complete skel- 
eton of the Mammoth perhaps in the world. It is per- 
fect, with the exception of a few bones, which have been 
supplied by imitating the others. This skeleton was 
found in Ulster county, New- York. 



oS PHILADELPHIA. 

The Academy of Arts, in Chestnut street, contains 
a large number of paintings, several of which arc the 
property of Joseph Bonaparte. Among these is one 
executed by David, representing Napolean crossing the 
Alps. Another is a full length portrait of Joseph him- 
self, as king of Spain. 

The U. S. Mint, established here, is at present in an 
ordinary building ; though a new and handsome edifice 
is constructing for the purpose. 

The City Library, was first established through the 
enterprise and influence of Franklin in 1731. It is lo- 
cated in a neat and ornamental edifice on the east side 
of Fifth street, opposite the State House Square, and 
contains about 24,000 volumes, besides the Loganian 
library of ancient classics of about 11,000 volumes, un- 
der the same roof. 

The Atheneum, on the second floor of the Pliilosoph- 
ical Hall in Fifth street, contains 5300 volumes and a 
variety of newspapers from various parts of the union. 
There are also deposited here a series of rare and valu- 
able pamphlets, forming 140 volumes, which belonged 
to Doct. Franklin ; many of which are enriched with 
his MS. notes. Strangers are admited to this institu- 
tion, on being introduced by a subscriber, and a regis- 
ter of their names is kept. 

The Jimerican Philosophical Society was founded in 
1743, principally by the exertions of Doct. Franklin. 
The members have a large and commodious building 
on a part of the State House Square, in which they have 
deposited about 6000 volumes of valuable books, and a 
collection of objects of natural history, consisting prin- 
cipally of minerals and fossil remains. The Presidents 



PHIL.\DELPHIA. , 67 

of the society have been Benjamin Franklin, David 
Rittenhouse, Thomas Jeffarson, Caspar Wistor, Rob- 
ert Patterson and William Tilghman, 

The University of Pennsylvania is situated in 
Ninth street, between Market and Chestnut streets. It 
was founded in 1750, and is in a highly prosperous and 
flourishing condition. 

Of the public works of Philadelphia, there are none of 
which its inhabitants are more justly proud than those 
at Fair Mount, by w^iich the city is supplied with wa- 
ter of the best quality, in the greatest plenty. Fair 
Mount is in the rear of the city upon the bank of the 
Schuylkill, the neighborhood of which affords a variety 
of romantic scenery. The situation is such as pecul- 
iarly adapts it for the purpose to which it has been de- 
voted^ The resei-voirs are situated on the top of a hill 
rising from the river, apart of it perpendicular rock, up- 
wards of one hundred feet. The ascent from the river 
to the reservoirs is by a flight of substantial wooden 
steps, with resting places, over one of which is a tem- 
ple. The reservoirs, which are surrounded with a pale 
fence, outside of which is a gravelled walk, contain up- 
wards of twelve millions of gallons, supplying the city 
through between 15 and 20 miles of pipes. The water 
was formerly forced to the reservoirs by steam, which 
is no longer used ; it is now raised by machinery pro- 
pelled by the Schuylkill. The machinery is simple, 
and is turned by large water wheels, of which there are 
five, one of them of iron of 24 tons weight. Their speed 
rnay be graduated to any required number of revolu- 
tions per minute ; and if all are in motion, they will 
raise seven millions of gallons in 24 hours. To turn 

F 



68 PIIILADELPKIA. 

them, the Schuylkill has been dammed its whole breadth, 
by which the water is thrown back into a reservoir 
lock, whence it is admitted as required to operate upon 
the wheels, and is discharged into the river below the 
dam. The whole expense of these works, including 
estimated cost of works abandoned, was $1,783,000. 
That required to keep them in operation is compara- 
tively trifling. The quantity of water thus disseminat- 
ed through the city, is not only sufficient for every fam- 
ily, but is used to wash the streets. It is of immense 
service in case of fire, as it is only necessary to screw 
the hose to hydrants which are placed at convenient 
distances, to secure a constant stream of sufficient force 
to reach an ordinary height. 

The Navy Yard (on the Delaware) receives the vis- 
its of strangers more particularly in consequence of the 
immense vessel, the Pennsylvania, there erecting. Her 
dimensions are 198 feet keel, 57 feet beam, and 45 feet 
in depth from the upper deck to the keel. She has four 
decks, on which are to be mounted from 140 to 180 
guns, manned by 1200 men. 

The New Penitentiary, located on elevated ground 
near the city, is designed to carry the principle of soli- 
tary confinement comptely into effect. Ten acres of 
land are occupied for the purpose, forming a square of 
650 feet each way, and enclosed by massy walls of gra- 
nite, 35 feet high, with towers and battlements. The 
prison is in the centre of the square, and is admirably 
calculated for the purpose for which it was designed. 
The expense incurred in its erection was upwards of 
$300,000. 



PHILADELPHIA. 60 

In arcoimt of shipping, Philadelphia occupies the 
fourth rank in the U. S. ; and three hnes of regular and 
commodious packets now run between the city and 
Liverpool. 

Its principal hotels are, the U. S. Hotel, opposite the 
U. S. Bank, in Chestnut street ; the Mansion House^ 
122 South Third street ; City Hotel, 41 N. Third street ; 
National Hotel, IIG Chestnut street ; Washington Ho- 
tel, Nos. 6 and 8 North Fourth street; and Congress 
Hall, in Third street, above Chestnut. The principal 
private boarding houses are the following : Mrs. Fra- 
ser, 321 Spruce street ; Mrs. Sword, 207 Chestnut st. ; 
Mrs. Allen, 42 South Sixth st. ; Miss Boyd, 287 Chest- 
nut St. ; Mrs. Alhbone, 139 Walnut st. ; Mrs. Austie, 
21 South Third st. ; Mrs. Linn, 98 South Third st. ; 
Mrs. Eaton, South East corner of Fifth and Library 
streets ; Mrs. Wilson, Chestnut street. 

The banks of the Schuylkill, near Philadelphia, con- 
tain numerous elegant country seats, and several pub- 
lic buildings. Among the private residences, none are 
perhaps more justly admired than that of Henry Pratt, 
Esq. on Lemon Hill. The Mansion House is situated 
on the eastern bank of the river, and directly above the 
Fair Mount Water Works, about a mile from the city. 
Connected with the mansion are gardens of the most 
extensive kind, laid out in a style of much elegance and 
taste. To these gardens, respectable citizens and stran- 
"■ers have free access ; and a ride to them is among the 
various pleasant excursions in the vicinity of the city. 

The Shot Tower of Mr. Beck is also an object of 
much curiosity to strangers visiting Philadelphia. It 
stands on the east bank of the Schuylkill, in the rear of 



70 INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. 

the city, and is a lofty edifice, from the top of which a 
very extensive view can be had of the surrounding 
country. 

The Penn Monument, commemorative of the spot 
where Wilham Penn, the founder of the colony of 
Pennsylvania, made a treaty with the aborigines, is 
near the intersection of Beach and Hanover streets. 

Steam boats leave Pliiladelphia every morning at 6 
o'clock, Sundays excepted, for Baltimore and New- 
York. 

The Philadelphia and Liverpool Packets, wliich 
are handsomely fitted up, sail from Philadelphia on the 
20th and from Liverpool on the 8th of each month. 

In the NEW LINE BY WAT OF Savannah, the packets 
sail from Philadelphia the 20th of each month. 

INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. 

The first turnpike in America was made in Pennsyl- 
vania ; and the state at tliis time contains near 3000 
miles of turnpike roads, at a cost of about ^8,000,000, 
Among the bridges built across its principal rivers, for- 
ty-five are estimated to have cost $3,000,000; and 
more than $15,000,000 have been expended witliin the* 
state on canals and rail roads. 

The Union Canal was commenced about 43 years 
since by a private company ; but having to encounter 
the expense of an extensive tunnel at the summit, of 
236 yards in length, and an insufficiency of water for 
the western section, Avhich is drawn up twenty feet by 
a steam engine, it was partially abandoned ; but since 
the completion and successful operation of the Erie and 
Charnplain canals, and a stimulus having been produc- 



tNlON CANAL. 71 

'ed in Pennsylvania, this canal was re-commenced and 

completed, and is in successful operation. It commen- 
ces near Reading on the Schuylkill river, 51 miles 
north-west of Philadelphia, and extends thence in a 
"westerly direction to Lebanon, and thence along the 
Swatara creek to Middletown, on the Susquehannah 
river, nine miles below Harrisburgh, the seat of gov- 
ernment of the state. 

The length of the canal is 79 miles ; the water for 
the principal supply of the eastern section, a distance of 
40 miles, is dravv n from the Tulpehocken river, a branch 
of the Schuylkill. The lockage on this section is 276| 
feet in 53 locks : the locks are of various lifts, and cost 
$650 per foot. The western section extends 39 miles, 
having a lockage of 226^ feet in 37 locks, besides an 
expensive tunnel. 

By a law of the Pennsylvania legislature, chartering 
the Union Canal Company, passed in 1826, they were 
prohibited from erecting any works which should pre- 
vent the descent of rafts in tlie channel of the Swa- 
tara. This provision having been repealed in 1829, the 
company subsequently resolved on ex::ending the canal 
to a point at or near the village of Pine Grove, about 
four miles from what is called "The Coal Region." 
From the basin at the northern extremity of the canal, 
it is contemplated to extend rail roads along the valhes 
of the Swatara and its various branches, which inter- 
sect the country in every direction, and afford ground 
admirably adapted for their construction. Another 
opening at Fishing creek, near the termination of the 
great reservoir, is said to possess equal advantages, 
f2 



72 tENNSTLVANlA CANAL. 

both as respects the position of its coal and the facility 
of access. 

These njines, it is supposed by competent judges, 
can be wrought as casil}' and economically as those of 
Mount Carbon ; and it is confidently predicted, that at 
no very distant day, the Swatara coal will form an im- 
portajit item of the consumption and exportation of the 
city of Philadelphia. 

By means of the Unio.:: Cv.rai and the Schuylkill 
slack water navigation, there is a communication from 
Philadelphia to tiie Susquehannah river ; and this com- 
munication is greatly estended b}'' means of the 

Pennsylvania Canal, which commences at Colum- 
bia, SO miles north-west of Philadelphia, and unites 
with the Union cana,l at Riiddletown, 18 miles farther. 
From thence it proceeds in a westerly direction to the 
Juniata — thence up that river to the foot of the iVllegany 
mountains, v/hich are crossed by a rail road, 40 miles 
long ; at the end of which the canal re-commences, 
uniting with the Allegany and Ohio rivers at Pitts- 
burgh, The whole length of this canal, including the 
rail road across the mountains, is 314 miles, and the 
lockage rising of 11 00 feet. After reaching the Jim iaia, 
a singularly romantic and beautiful stream, the canal 
winds along a gentle and practicable acclivity, follow- 
-ing the bed of the river for nearly a hundred miles. 
Two mighty ranges of mountains rise from the limpid 
Juniata, like two green leaves of an immense openincr 
volume. These mountains, apparently arranged to the 
course of this stream, seem to lie almost at right angles 
to the great parallel ridges. The Juniata finds a pas- 
sage by a very equable and gentle declivity through all 



PENNSYLVANIA CANAL. 73 

the mountains except the last ridge that parts its wa- 
ters from those of the Ohio. More beautiful forms of 
mountains than these which skirt this river, can no 
where be seen. Sometimes, for many miles together, 
they rise, smooth, verdant and unbroken, by equable 
slopes, from the very verge of the stream to the height 
of Iweive hundred feet ; and here, apparently, when 
the fountains of the great deep were broken up, the 
rocky summits of the mountains were dismembered at 
the same time. For miles together, and in many pla- 
ces the v;hole sides of the grand slope, from summit to 
base, are strown with large fragments of smooth build- 
ing stone ; and it is inconceivable how smoothly and 
completely they line the sides of these mighty hills. 
Layers of these rocks cover thousands of acres, for a 
depth apparently of forty or fifty feet ; and for a con- 
siderable distance the road is formed b}"^ the removal of 
these layers along the sides of the ir.ountains, the car- 
riage winding its way many hundred feet above the ca- 
nal, which is perpendicularly belov\'. 

In other places, more recent slides of the earth and 
rocks from the summits of the mountai-is have cut away 
a visible and uniform path, sweeping trees and every 
obstacle before it, until the spoils are accvimulatcd at 
the foot of the mountains. Indeed, every foot of this 
route of a hundred miles is enriched with scenery of 
unexampled sublimity ; and we can imagine no higher 
treat for the tourist than a passage along its banks, 
connected with the crossing of the Allegaiiies, and a 
trip to Pittsburgh. 

In addition to the foregoing, the state have completed 
a canal from Middletown, at the junction of the Union 



74 RAIL ROADS. 

Canal with the Susquehaiinah, to Muncy Hills upon 
the West Branch of that river, 90 miles in length ; an- 
other from Northumberland, at the junction of the east 
and West Branches of the Susquehannah, up the for- 
mer branch, to Nanticokc falls, 55 miles ; another from 
Bristol, up the Delaware river, to Easton, near the junc- 
tion of the Lehigh and Delaware, 60 miles ; and anoth- 
er from French creek (a navigable stream which rises 
within 10 miles of Lake Erie, and joins the Allegany 
80 miles from Pittsburgh) to Muddy run, in the north 
west part of the state, 19^ miles. The whole extent of 
these canals is 428^ miles. 

Besides the foregoing, the following canals belong to 
private companies : 

The Schuylkill Canal, from Philadelphia up the 
Schuylkill river, intersecting ihe Union canal at Read- 
ing, to the Schuylkill coal mines at Mount Carbon — 
lockage 58S feet — length lOS miles, including 46 miles 
of slack water on the river — cost §2,336,000, of which 
$500,000 were subscribed by the state. 

The Lehigh Canal, from Easton, on the Delaware, 
up the Lehigh river to the coal mines at Mauch Chunk, 
and from thence to Stoddartsville. Length of the ca- 
nal 46 miles, lockage 35 feet, slack water 38 miles, 
whole distance 84 miles. 

The Philadelphia and Norristown Rail Road, 
commences at the corner of Ninth and Spring-Garden 
streets in Philadelphia, and passes through German- 
town, 6 miles distant, and from thence to Norristown, 
9 miles farther. The road is formed chiefly of stone 
blocks, with heavy iron rails fastened thereon, similar to 
the construction of the Manchester and Liverpool road. 



THE COAL MINES. 75 

Until reaching Coliocksink creek, which is crossed by 
a large viaduct, the graduated surface is 70 feet, on each 
side of which streets are opened, and several squares 
of buildings have been erected. The whole line of the 
road is interesting, and the patronage which it has thus 
far received has been handsome. 

The Columbia and Philadelphia Rail Road 
commences at the junction of Broad and Cedar streets 
in Philadelphia, crosses the Schuylkill at Peters' Isl- 
and, passes Paoli, Downingstown, Coatsville, Lancas- 
ter and Mount Pleasant to Columbia, on the Susque- 
hannah, where it joins the Pennsylvania canal. Length 
80 miles. The road consists of a double track, and is 
composed of the most solid and durable materials ; one 
line being a continuous stone rail with an iron plate, 
and the other consisting of heavy stone blocks and iron 
rails. Locomotive engines, as well as horses, are used 
in conveying passengers and freight. 

Both of these roads are the property, and are made 
at the expense of the state. 

THE COAL MTRES. 

Since the discovery and opening of the extensive 
coal mines in Pennsylvania, and the great internal im- 
provements which have been made in the state, pro- 
viding an easy communication to them, it has become 
almost a matter of course to embrace them within the 
tour of the middle and northern states. The Lehigh 
and Schuylkill, the principal mines already explored, 
are located from 100 to 120 miles in a northeasterly 
direction from Philadelphia, between a chain of moun- 



76 THE COAL MINES: 

tains denominated the Blue Ridge and the Susquc- 
hannah river. The anthracite district is principally 
occupied by mountains running parallel to the Blue 
Ridge, often broad "with table land summits, and rising 
generally about 1500 feet above the ocean. These 
summits, by repeated fires, have been principally di- 
vested of timber, and are generally too stony for til- 
lage. The beds and veins of anthracite range from 
north-east to south-weat, and may often be traced for 
a considerable distance by the compass ; but they 
have been found in the greatest quantity in sections 
most accessible by water. Extensive beds and veins 
range from the Lehigh to the Susquehannah, crossing 
the head waters of the Schuylkill and Swatara about 
ten miles north-west of the Blue Ridge. They are al- 
so found contiguous to the Susquehannah and Lacka- 
wanna. But in no part of the district does the anthra- 
cite exist in such apparently inexhaustible beds as in 
the vicinity of Mauch Chunk, a village situated on the 
Lehigh, 35 miles from Easton, and 108 by water from 
Philadelphia. The coal is there excavated on the fiat 
summit of a motmtain that rises near 1500 feet above 
the ocean. It is disclosed for several miles on the 
summit wherever excavations have been made, and is 
indicated in many places by coal slate in a pulveralent 
state, on the surface. The mountain rises with steep 
acclivity, particularly on the north-west side, and when 
penetrated at various altitudes, discloses coal at about 
the same distance from the surface. In the deep exca- 
vations made on the summit, no termination of the 
coal has been found, and it is not improbable that an- 



THE COAL MINES. 77 

thracite forms the nucleus of the mountain for a con- 
siderable distance. 

The coal is rendered accessible by removing from 
the flat summit gravelly loam, which is from a few 
inches to four feet in depth, and disintegrated slate 
with impure coal, from two to four feet. The coal 
rests in a horizontal position, narrow parallel seams of 
argillaceous schist intervening. Strong chalybeate 
springs, holding in solution sulphate of iron, issue from 
the mountain's side. The coal excavation on the sur- 
face is extensive, and from 30 to 40 feet deep, forming 
a hollow square, bounded by lofty mural precipices of 
coal. Waggons are admitted by avenues that serve to 
dischai-ge water from the mine. 

Next to Mauch Chunk, Mount Carbon, or Pottsville, 
situated at the head of the Schuylkill canal, has been 
the principal source of the supply of anthracite. Many 
large veins are worked within three miles of the land- 
ing ; and some have been opened seven miles to the 
north-east in the direction of the Lehigh beds. The 
chief veins wrought are, one situated on an eminence 
adjacent to the village ; Bailey's mine, about 2 miles 
from Pottsville and near the turnpike to Lunbury ; and 
on the territory of the New- York Schuylkill company 
about 3 miles from the village. On almost every emi- 
nence adjacent to Pottsville, indications of coal are dis- 
closed. The veins generally run in a north-east direc- 
tion, with an inclination of about 45 degrees, and are 
from 3 to 9 feet in thickness. Commencing at or near 
the surface, they penetrate to an unknown depth, and 
can often be traced on hills for a considerable distance 
by sounding in a north-east or south-west direction 



78 THE COAL MINES. 

Some veins have been wrought to a depth of 200 feet 
without a necessity of draining, the inchned slate roof 
shielding them from water. Where the ground admits, 
it is considered the best mode of working veins to com- 
mence at the back of a coal mine eminence, or as low 
as possible, and work up, filling the excavation with 
slate and fine coal, leaving a horizontal passage for the 
coal barrows. A section of a wide vein near Pottsville 
has been excavated by this mode several hundred feet 
into the hill. 

On the extensive tract occupied by the New- York 
company, five miles from Pottsville, there are also in- 
exhaustible coal beds, in the excavating of which from 
300 to 400 hands are employed. 

South-west of Pottsville the coal becomes more easi- 
ly ignited, and tliat at Peter's mountain, a few miles 
east of Dansville, is said to contain bitumen. It is 
probable that the coal in that vicinity embraces, like 
the Yv'ilkesbarre, much more inflammable gas than the 
Lehigh, which may have led to the supposition that it 
was bituminous. 

Antliracite is found on several of the streams that 
discharge into the Susquehannah, on its eastern side. 
A large bed exists a few miles easterly from Berwick, 
and numerous veins occur from an elevated part of the 
Wilkesbarre mountain, to the Kingston and Shawnese 
mountains, that form the western border of the basin of 
Wyoming. Veins of coal in Vae vale of the latter,* 



* The valley of Wyoming is rendered memorable in 
history from the bloody massacre of the w'liite settlers 
by the Indians commanded by Col. Butler during the 



TH2 COAL MINIi:3. 79 

about 125 miles north-west of Philadelphia, are not on- 
ly very numerous, occurring on almost every farm, but 
many are of uncommon thickness.* 

Extensive beds of coal are also foimd adjoining the 
head vi^aters of Lycoming creek ; and a Lycoming 
Coal Company has been chartered, jjwith a capital of 
$25,000. This coal lies in horizontal veins, elevated 
considerably above the ordinary level of the adjacent 
country, and is, of course, mined with much less diffi- 
culty than in many other districts. The state canal up 
the west branch of the Susquehannah river intersects 
with the Lycoming creek, to the mouth of which the 
company are authorized to construct a rail road, 20 
miles in length. When completed, they will have an 
uninterrupted rail road and canal communication to 
Philadelphia, distant, by land and water, 260 miles. 
This mine is advantageously located for supplying the 
city of New- York and the south-western part of the 
state, and will doubtless prove of great value to the 
compan3^ 



revolution, and immortalized in son^ by the beautiful 
poem of Campbell, The village of Wilkesbarre, on the 
Susquehannah river, has been built near the place of 
this massacre. Solomon's creek, a tributary stream, 
and which unites with the Susquehannah in this valley, 
contains two very romantic falls, a short distance from 
Wilkesbarre. 

* For the preceding sketch of the coal region, the 
editor is mostly indebted to the Journal of Science and 
Arts, an invaluable work, published at New-Haven, 
Conn, by professor Silliman. 



80 K0RRI3T0WN — READING. 

ROUTE TO THE SCHUYLKILL COAL MINES. 

From Philadelphia to Port Carbon is 103 miles, and 
the intermediate distances are as follows : 

Miles. 
By rail road. 
From Philadelphia to 



Germantown, 6 

Norristown, 9 

By stage or canal. 

Phenixville, 13 

Pottstown, 14 

Unionsville, ,... 4 



Miles. 

Birdsboro' 6 

Reading, 10 

Hamburgh, 23 

Port Clinton, 4 

Schuylkill Haven,. ... 12 

Pottsville,? 5 

Port Carbon, 2 



The Norristown rail road is taken at Philadelphia, 
which passes through Germantown, distant 6 miles, 
distinguished as the spot of a sanguinary contest dur- 
ing the revolution ; and from thence to 

Norristown, 9 miles farther. This village is hand- 
somely located on the north bank of the Schuylkill. It 
is the capital of Montgomery county, and contains a 
number of elegant dwellings. It was formerly the res- 
idence of the celebrated Doct. Rittenhouse. From this 
place a stage or canal packet is taken, which passes 
through Phenixville to 

PoTTSTowM,or PoTTSGRovE, 18 miles above Norris- 
town, which is a pleasant village on the east bank of 
the river. 

Reading, 20 miles farther, located on the east side 
of the river, is the capital of Berk's county. It is a flour- 
ishing town, regularly laid out, and is inhabited princi- 



MOUNT CARBON. 81 

pally by Germans. Its population is about 6000. Near 
this place the Union Canal, noticed at page 70, com- 
mences. Six miles from Reading is a cutting of 60 feet 
in depth through a solid rock ; the contract for which 
having been taken by a Mr. Duncan, the spot is called 
Duncmi's Job. From this place to the Blue Ridge, the 
Schuylkill Avinds through a valley in which there is 
considerable limestone, the fissures and cavities of 
which in some places rendered the formation of a re- 
tentive canal difficult. 

Hamburgh is situated on the east side of the river, 
23 miles above Reading, near the Blue Ridge. It is a 
pleasant and thriving village, near which is what is 
called the Mountain Dam, 27 feet high. The passage 
of the Schuylkill and canal through the Blue Ridge is 
interesting and romantic. The mountains bordering 
the ravine are lofty and precipitous, presenting ledges 
of old and red sand stone, with coarse and fine silicious 
gray wacke. The turnpike winds on the mountain side 
at a great elevation above the stream, giving to the 
traveller a sublime and varied scenery. The naviga- 
tion through the pass, or what is called the Schviylkill 
Water Gap, is effected by stone dams of magnitude 
and permanent construction ; and groups of locks, wa- 
ter falls and broad sheets of water are frequent. 

After passing the Water Gap, the next object of at- 
traction is the Tunnel, which has been bored through a 
hill 375 yards for the canal. The village of Orwisburgh 
is 3 miles farther ; from which to 

Mount Carbon or Pottsville is 8 miles. This 
place, centrally located in the coal region, has attained 



82 RAIL ROADS. 

an astonishing growth within a very sliort period, In 
1824 it was awilderness ; in 1829 it contained 223 ten- 
ements, and a population of 2700 inhabitants ; and in 
1832, 492 dwellings, and about 5000 inhabitants ; 4 
churches, a bank, 3 printing offices, and a large num- 
ber of stores, shops and public houses, some of which 
are -\ery elegant. The town is laid out in regular 
squares, and the main street, about a mile in length, 
presents on each side a compact row of large and sub- 
stantial buildings. The principal streets are M'Adam- 
ized in the centre, with brick side walks, giving a neat 
and durable apearance to the promenades. 

The coal in this region has been described in the pre- 
ceding pages of this work. Besides the numerous fa- 
cilities afforded for its transportation by water, several 
rail roads have been constructed in the immediate vi- 
cinity of Mount Carbon. Among these are the Schuyl- 
kill Valley Rail Road, 10 miles ; the Mount Carbon, 8 
miles ; the Mill Creek, 3 miles ; the West Branch, 17 
miles ; and the Little Schuylkill, 22 miles — making an 
aggregate of 61 miles. 

The Mount Carbon rail road commences at the land- 
ing on the Schuylkill, and passes through Pottsville up 
to the heads of the Norwegian creek. From its com- 
mencement to its termination, there is not a quarter o- 
a mile in which it does not cross one or more veins of 
coal, at right angles. The whole valley, indeed, wa- 
tered by this creek, is redolent with coal of the finest 
quality. 

The West Branch rail road commences at Schuylkill 
Haven, and extends up to the confluence of the West 
and west West Branches of the Schuylkill, from whence 



VILLAGES NEAR THE COAL MINES, 83 

branches follow the direction of the two streams to the 
foot of the Broad Mountain, making a distance, alto- 
gether, of about 17 miles. 

The little Schuylkill rail road extends to the river of 
that name, a branch of the principal stream. It rises 
20 miles north-east of the Gap in tlie Blue Ridge, the 
place, of its outlet. 

Of the numerous villages which have sprung up in 
the vicinity of these mines is Port Carbon, a short dis- 
tance from Potteville, containing from 100 to 150 build- 
ings. 

Pursuing up the route of the Valley Rail Road, the 
traveller next comes to Tuscarora, Middleport, Patter- 
son, New Philadelphia, and Tuscarora again. The 
three former places are at the intersection of the large 
lateral road which leads up the creek tributary to the 
river — the latter is at the head of the main rail road, 
built by Messrs. Lyons and Lawton. 

Up the Mill Creek Rail Road, about 2 miles, is St, 
Clairsville, and at its head New-Castle, where the road 
from Port Carbon intersects the Centre Turnpike. 
Both these places have extensive water powers, and 
are admirably located for mills, &c. 

At the junction of the "West Branch of the Schuyl- 
kill with the main river, Schuylkill Haven is a beauti- 
fully situated place, which will be a mart of all the im- 
mense coal region of the West and west West Branch- 
es ; this location is destined to be the focus of an ex- 
tensive business. Minersville is another scite on the 
same branch, nearly west of Pottsville. This, from its 
situation among extensive collieries, will soom become 
a populous place, as the residence of those engaged in 
g2 



84 MAUCH CHUNK. 

the coal business. Further up, on the Broad Moun- 
tain, is Carbondale, which also promises to be a place 
of some importance. 

Route to the Lehigh Coal Mines. 
Prom Orwisburgh, a stage can be taken to Mauch 
Chunk, at the Lehigh coal mines, a distance of 15 miles 
in a north-eastvvardly direction. This route is recom- 
mended to travellers from the south, designing a gene- 
ral visit to the coal regions. From the north, the most 
direct route is, to pursue the line of the Morris canal 
from Nevi^ark, N. Jersey, to Easton, or the route from 
New- York to Schooley's Mountain, and from thence 
to Easton, proceeding up the Lehigh to Mauch Chunk. 
A very common route from Philadelphia to the Lehigh 
is by steam-boat to Bristol, 20 mile up the Delaware, 
and from thence by stage through Newton and New- 
Hope to Easton, 50 miles farther. This route is mostly 
on the bank of the Delaware, and passes through a 
pleasant section of the country, affording a rich and di- 
versified scenery. 

MAUCH CHUNK. 

The village of Mauch Chunk is situated on the west- 
ern bank of the Lehigh, in a deep romantic ravine, be- 
tween rocky mountains that rise in some parts precipi- 
tously to 800 or 1000 feet above the stream. Space was 
procured for dwellings by breaking down the adjacent 
rocks, and by filling a part of the ravine of the Mauch 
Chunk creek. A portion of tliis stream has been trans- 
ferred to an elevated rail way, and is used to propel a 
grist mill. The village contains about 200 dwellings. 



MAUCH CHUNK RAIL ROAD. 85 

bebnging principally to the Lehigh Company, who 
have between 800 and 1000 men in their employ. 
Mauch Chunk seems by nature designed for a place of 
business, but as there is not sufficient room, owing to 
the approach of the mountains to the Lehigh, for a 
town of much size, the business of the place will most 
hkely be confined principally to the shipment of coaL 

The Mauch Chuiv^k P^ail Road leads from near the 
coal mines on the mountain down an inclined plane to 
the Lehigh river. It is eight miles long, and has been 
in operation 5 or 6 years. The sleepers on which the 
rails rest, as well as the rails, are of wood ; the latter 
plated with iron. Experiments have been made as to 
the velocity t'nat might be obtained for the cars loaded 
with coal, and the horses and mules to draw them back 
to the summit when the coal had been discha^rged ; and 
it has been found, that though the speed of the cars 
might be increased to thirty or forty miles an hour with 
safety, yet the beasts, as well as the men who guided, 
the cars, became in a few days sickly, on account of 
the rapid and confused appearance of objects as they 
were passed on the way. The directors of the compa- 
ny have therefore been compelled to limit the velocity 
of the cars to 14 miles an hour in their descent, to oh- 
viate the disagreeable consequences of the more rapid 
motion. Pleasure carriages sometimes go up this rail 
way with strangers,- but the more common practice is 
to go up in the returning cars. The road generally 
passes along a narrow shelf, with precipices on its side 
not unfrequently of from 300 to 600 feet. At the end 
of the rail road, the cars are let down to the river on an 



U6 Lehigh river. 

inclined plane of 700 feet, equal to a perpendicular de- 
scent of 200. 

A tunnel, 12 feet high, 20 wide, and nearly 800 long, 
was cut through the mountain by the company in 1826, 
for the purpose of shortening the passage to a bed of 
coal supposed to lie on the other side. This labor was 
lost, as no coal was found in the direction of the tun^ 
nel. The beds belonging to the company, however, 
are inexhaustible in other directions. 

The Lehigh Canal was noticed at page 74. The 
Lehigh River is a copious rapid stream, and rises by 
various mountain branches forty miles north-west of 
Mauch Chunk, which unite below Stoddartsville, 25 
miles above Mauch Chunk. The fall of the river be- 
tween these two places is 845 feet. Eleven miles be* 
low Mauch Chunk, it passes through the Kittatinny 
range of mountains, and in the intermediate space falls 
245 feet. From the Lehigh Water Gap, or passage 
through the Kittatinny, to its junction with the Dela- 
ware at Easton, 35 miles, it falls 205 feet ; making the 
entire fall from Stoddartsville 1210 feet. To overcome 
the descent from Mauch Chunk to Easton, 21 dams 
and 52 locks have been found necessary. They are lo- 
cated at the head of rapids, enabling the navigator to 
command an artificial freshet, when the stream from its 
dispersion would not otherwise admit of the passage of 
boats. Water from the dam is copiously admitted in- 
to a rail way that extends to the foot of the rapid. The 
gates are attached by hinges to the bottom of the lock, 
and rise by the force of water admitted from a floom, 
constructed parallel with the lock, and remain suspend- 



THE LANDING — LEKIGHTON. 



87 



ed, forming a section of the dam. If the gate of the. 
fioom is closed, the water between the gates passes off, 
and they fall by their own weight and the pressure of 
the water from the dam. 

The Landing, or Lausanne, above Mauch Chunk, 
from its location at the head of the navigation, and at 
the commencement of the turnpike road leading to the 
Susquehannah, will in a short time become a place of 
deposit for merchandize and produce, destined to and 
from the upper country. The Nesquehoning creek 
here empties into the Lehigh, and will tend much to 
bring the town forward and render it a place of busi- 
ness, as from the extensive water power which this 
stream affords, manufactories can be established at 
comparatively a very small expense. Eight miles be- 
low Mauch Chunk is the pleasant village of 

Lehighton. The ground plot of the town is laid out 
upon an elevated piece of table land, and the lots are 
sufficiently large to afford an extensive garden and 
yard to each dwelling. The village commands a pros- 
pect of the river and canal ; the valley in which the 
town of Weiss Port is located ; the Blue Mountain in 
the distance, and a nearer view of the Mahoning moun- 
tain and the Lehigh hills. The Mahoning creek flows 
at the foot of the Mahoning mountain, and empties in- 
to the Lehigh within half a mile of the village, where 
has been discovered a mineral spring, the waters of 
which have proved highly beneficial in many cases of 
disease and debility. 



88 BETHLEHEM. 

. The Lehigh Water Gap is 3 miles farther. Thtj 
river is here confined within very narrow limits, being 
bounded on either side with the bold and precipitous 
Kittatinny mountains. The scenery is in a high degree 
wild, picturesque, and frequently sublime. Below the 
mountains, the features of nature are less magnificent, 
but still follow in a romantic succession of strongly con- 
trasted and elegant landscapes. 

Bethlehem is 1 1 miles from the Water Gap. It is a 
settlement of the Moravians, or United Brethren. The 
situation is healthful and pleasant, and it is a place 
much resorted to in the summer months. The chui-ch 
belonging to the society is one of the largest in the 
state, though exhibiting in its structure much plainness. 
From its steeple, a very beautiful, picturesque and ex- 
tended view can be obtained. In one direction the 
scene stretches for upwards of twenty miles along the 
course of the Lehigh and the Water Gap, the wander- 
ing explorations of the eye terminating at the Blue 
Mountain range. 

When a death occurs, a part of the choir ascend the 
steeple, where a requium or funeral hymn is sung for 
their departed brother or sister. The body is subse- 
quently placed in what is termed the " corpse house," a 
building detached from all others, where it remains 
three days, typical of the death and burial of the Sav- 
iour, and then is interred in the church yard. This is 
divided into various departments and methodically ai- 
ranged, though with much plainness and simplicity. 

The society take charge of their own poor, of which, 
however, there are very few ; a strong argimiont in fa- 
vor of their regulations. 



BASTON. 89 

The town is supplied with water from the Monocks- 
sy creek. The works are said to be the oldest in the 
state, having been in operation more than eighty years. 
Those at Fairmount, Philadelphia, are constructed upon 
similar principles. The house where Gen. La Fayette 
lay during his recovery from the wound he received at 
the battle of Brandywine, is pointed out here. His 
nurse on that occasion has continued to reside in the 
place ever since, and received a visit from him when he 
was last in this country. 

Easton is 12 miles from Bethlehem, and is the capi- 
tal of Northamptou county, Penn. It is located on the 
Delaware river, immediately above the entrance of the 
Lehigh, in a valley between the Musconetcunk moun- 
tains. Several rude and isolated hills stand in the val- 
ley, commanding extensive viev/s and giving to the 
place a picturesque appearance. The town is tasteful- 
ly laid out, with an open square in the centre, and con- 
tains several handsome dwellings. Its public buildings 
are a court house, jail, poor house, 3 churches, a bank 
and an academy. A bridge extending across the Del- 
aware at this place cost 5^60,000. There is also a chain 
bridge across the Lehigh. 

The location of Easton is highly favorable for trade • 
and it will ultimately become one of the most impor- 
tant towns in the state. Besides the great advantages 
here possessed for manufacturing purposes, and the 
contiguity of the place to the Delaware and Lehigh riv- 
er, it is the point at which three important canals, the 
Delaware, the Lehigh and the Morris concentrate. The 
two first have already been noticed. (See page 74.) 



90 MORRIS CANAL. 

The Morris Canal extends from Easton to New- 
ark, N. Jersey, a distance of 86 miles, and from thence 
to Powle's Hook, opposite New- York, 8 miles further, 
lockage 1600 feet, which is surmounted by inclined 
planes. The eastern section of this canal was com- 
pleted in 1829. From Newark to Patterson, the coun- 
try through which the canal passes is beautiful. At the 
latter place, a view of the extensive manufactories is 
had, located on the north. On the south, the canal for 
some distance is bounded by mountainous rugged cliffs, 
the rocky excavations through which were attended 
with great labor and expense. Four miles above Pat- 
terson is what is called the Grand Aqueduct across the 
Passaic river at the Little Falls. This aqueduct may 
justly be ranked, for its admirable construction, work- 
manship, space of the arch and elevation, with the 
greatest objects of curiosity in artificial navigation, and 
altogether may be considered superior to any thing of 
the kind in this country. Haifa mile further is un 
aqueduct across the Pompton river, a work of consider- 
able magnitude. The whole route, indeed, from New- 
ark to Easton is interesting, and worthy the attention 
of the tourist. 

From Easton to the Delaware Water G«p, the distance 
is 23 miles. The route proceeds up the river to Rich- 
mond, 14 miles; from thence to WiUiamsburgh, 4 
miles ; and from the latter place to the Water Gap, 5 
miles. The current of the stream is here contracted at 
the base of two lofty mountains in opposite directions, 
between which the passage is extremely narrow. It is 
supposed that here was formerly a barrier over which 



NEWARK. 91 

'die river flowed in the form of a cataract, which was 
subsequently worn away, leaving a smooth unruffled 
current. The scene is wild, and highly interesting. 

From Easton to the Delaware Wind Gap, an impor- 
tant passage through the Blue Mountains, is 12 miles, 
in a northwardly direction. 

From Easton to Schooly's Mountain, and thence toJ^TeW' 
York, the whole distance is 71 miles as follows : 



Miles. 
From Easton to Phil- 

ipsburgh, 1 

Top of Schooly's 

Mountain, 24 

Mendham, 12 



Milee. 

Morristown,. 6 

Passaic river, 7 

Newark,. 11 

New-York, 10 



Schoolt's Mountain, in New-Jersey, is a place t>f 
fashionable resort from New-York, in the summer 
months, owing to its cool, airy and healthful situation, 
and to the extensive prospect afforded from its top ; on 
•which there is an excellent public house. Within a 
mile of its summit there are mineral springs, which 
are usually resorted to by visitants at the mountain 
house. 

Newark, N. J. which is located on the route, and 
which is within 10 miles of N. York, is one of the most 
elegant villages in the union. It is situated near the 
west bank of the Passaic river, 3 miles from its mouth, 
and is laid out in regular streets, the principal being 
200 feet wide. The public square, near the centre, is 
very handsome, and is surrounded by a number of ele-:. 
gant private dwellings. The public buildings in the 



9f FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW-YORK. 

place are a court house, jail, two banks, an academy 
and six churches. The population in 1830 was 10,705. 
Having thus far diverged from the usual route to the 
north, for the purpose of describing the coal region, and 
the most interesting natural and artificial objects con- 
nected therewith, we return to Philadelphia, to resume 
the regular excursion. 

FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW- YORK. 

The routes and modes of conveyance being various, 
we give a sketch of each, that the traveller may make 
such selection as shall be most agreeable. 

Steam Boat and Rail Road rente. 
Since the completion of the Camden and Amboy rail 
road from Bordentown to Amboy, the traveller will find 
this a very easy, elegant and expeditious route. The 
distance from Philadelphia to New- York is 85 miles, 
and the intermediate distances as follows : 



By steam boat. 

Miles. 
From Philadelphia to 
Burlington, N. J. . . 18 

Bristol, Penn 1 

Bordentown, N. J. . . 9 



By rail road. 

Miles. 

Hightstown, 14 

Amboy, 20 

By steam boat. 
New-York, 23 



BuRLiNGTOX, the capital of the county of the same 
name, is 12 miles below Trenton and 18 above Pliila- 
delphia. It is delightfully situated, and contains some 
handsome public and private houses. 

Bristol is one mile father, on the opposite side of 
the Delaware, in Bucks county, Pennsylvania. This 
place contains several fine residences, and is an attrac- 



CAMDEX AND AMBOT R.\IL ROaD. 93 

tive and interesting country village. Some of its flow- 
er gardens, which are unusually elegant, and located 
on the margin of the river, add much to the beauty of 
its appearance. 

BoRDENTOWN', 9 miles farther, and six belov/ Tren- 
ton, is noted as the late residence of the Count de Sur- 
villiers, the ex-king of Spain, whose elegant mansion 
was within a few years burnt by accident, but is now 
rebuilt with additional embelUshment and magnifi- 
cence. His villa commands a fine view of the river. 
The soil around it is unproductive ; but by the aid of 
culture and art, his residence now exhibits an appear- 
ance of taste and munificence worthy the princely for- 
tune and dignity of its proprietor. 

At Bordentown, the Camdem and Amboy Rail 
Road is taken, which is finished to South Amboy; 
from whence a steam boat is again taken, which lands 
passengers at New- York. The charter of this road 
was granted by the legislature of New- Jersey in 1830, 
and the travel betv/een Bordentown and Amboy com- 
menced in 1832. Camden, the south-western point at 
which the road is to terminate, is a small village on the 
Delaware, opposite Philadelphia, 27 miles below Bor- 
dentown, where the river is about one mile in breadth. 
South Amboy is seated at the head of the Raritan Bay, 
61 miles and ten chains from Camden, as measured by 
the course of the rail road ; and is about 23 miles from 
the city of New- York, (by water,) making the whole 
distance from Camden to New- York rather less than 
85 miles. 



94 STEAM BOAT AND STAGE ROUTE, 

South Amboy, where the road terminates at the eas- 
tern end, is one of the finest harbors in the United 
States, accessible at all seasons for the largest vessels 
from the sea and from New- York ; so that the commu- 
nication with Philadelphia and foreign countries by this 
route will be uninterrupted. Possessing, too, great ad- 
vantages for a port of entry and departure, during the 
winter months, and having added to it the facihties for 
transportation of the cargoes of merchant traders by the 
rail road, it must become an important point for the 
mercantile operations of Philadelphia, independently of 
the advantages of its nearer connection with N. York, 

A single track, with occasional turnouts, has thus 
far only been made ; but the workmanship and mate- 
rials are of the best and most durable kind. Entire iron 
rails are used, which rest on stone blocks and sleepers. 

The carriages are elegant, and among the best which 
have been constructed ; and a trip across the road will 
be ranked among the novelties and pleasures of a north- 
ern tour. 

Steam Boat and Stage Route — 97 miles. 

TABLE OF DISTANCES. 



Miles. 
By Steam boat. 
From Philadelphia to 

Burlington, N. J... 13 

Bristol, Penn 1 

Bordentown, N. J.... 9 

Trenton 7 



Miles. 
By stage. 

Princeton, H 

Kingston, 3 

New-Brunswick,.... 12 
By steam boat. 

Perth Amboy, 13 

Elizabethtown Point, 13 

Nevv'-York 10 



TRBNTO!*. 95 

Burlington, Bristol and Borden town', have al« 
ready been noticed at pages 92 and 93. 

Trenton, the capital of the state of New- Jersey, is 
situated on the Delaware river, 35 miles from Philadel- 
phia. It contains about 6000 inhabitants, a state house, 
two banks, and six houses of public worship. At Tren- 
ton the steam-boat navigation on the Delaware ter- 
minates. The river here forms a considerable rapid or 
falls, near which is an elevated bridge, about a quarter 
of a mile long, neatly roofed, and the sides enclosed to 
secure it from the weather. The distance between 
Trenton and New-Brunswick is passed by an excel- 
lent line of post coaches, which leave the former place 
immediately on the arrival of the boat. This route af- 
fords the traveller a fine view of the most fertile section 
of the state; and, making all allowances for roadsj 
which are ordinary, it is, in other respects, by no means 
devoid of interest. 

It was in this section of Nev/- Jersey, and at tho 
gloomiest period of the contest, that some of the 
most important scenes of the revolution, and those 
which gave point and character to the American 
war, transpired. It was for a length of time in the pos- 
session of the English, and was the theatre of much 
carnage and bloodshed. The capture of a detachment 
of English and German troops in December, 1776, at 
Trenton, was the first signal victory that crowned our 
arms in the revolutionary contest. It cheered the droop- 
ing and depressed spirits of our little army, and impart- 
ed new vigor to the cause of liberty. The retreat of 

h2 



96 PRINCETON. 

Washington with his troops from Trenton, considering" 
the circumstances which surrounded him, and the se- 
crecy with which it was accomphshed, may be justly 
considered as one of the most successful movements of 
that eventful period.* 

Princeton is located on an elevated piece of land 
11 miles from Trenton, 15 from New-Brunswick, 46 
from Philadelphia, and 51 from New- York, It over- 
looks an extensive prospect, and is a very handsome 
village. It contains a college, [theological seminary, a 
presbyterian church, and about 100 dwelhng houses. 
The college of New- Jersey was founded in 1738. It 
has a president, 3 professors, and 2 tutors. 

The theological seminary was established in 1812, 
by the general assembly of the presbyterian church. 
It has 3 professors, a respectable library, and upwards- 
of 100 students. 

In the college yard are the remains of the presidents 
of the institution. Burr, Edwards, Davis, Finley, With- 
erspoon and Smith. 

New-Brunswick is the starting place for the New- 
York steam-boats. In this village is the thcologial 
seminary, under the direction of the synod of the Dutch 



* A rail road is now constructing between this place 
and Philadelphia, which will probably be completed 
the present season (1834.) 



PERTH AMBOY — ^KEW-YOR«. 97 

reformed church. The village also contains a court 
house, gaol, a college edifice, and five churches,* 

Perth Ambot is 13 miles from New-Brunswick, 23 
south-west of New-York, and 74 north-east of Phila- 
delphia. Its harbor is one of the best on the continent. 

Elizabethtown, 13 miles farther in a south-west- 
erly direction from New- York, is pleasantly situa- 
ted on a creek emptying into Staten Island Sound. A 
steam-boat plies between the point and New- York. 

Staten Island, constituting the county of Rich- 
mond, is 14 miles long and 8 wide. It was the resi- 
dence of the late vice-president Tompkins, and con- 
tains several delightful country seats. 

The price of fare from Philadelphia to New-York is 
from $3 to $3,50, and the route is usually performed in 
from 9 to 12 hours. 

On approaching New- York, the most prominent ob- 
jects that meet the eye, are Fort La Fayette, Castle 
Y/illiams, the lofty spires of Trinity and St. Paul's 
churches, and the Catholic cathedral. 

NEW-YORK. 

This city is situated on the point of York Island, at 
the confluence of the Hudson and East rivers, in. lati- 
tude 40. It was founded by the Dutch, in 1615, under 



* A rail road is now constructing from this place 
through Newark to Jersey City, opposite New- York, 
and a similar road is also to be constructed between 
New-Brunswick and Trenton. 



S8 NEW-TORK- 

the name of New-Amsterdam, and was incorporated 
by the British in 1696. The island on which it stands 
is 15 miles long, and from 1 to 3 miles broad. The city 
is situated on the south part of the island, and extends 
along the Hudson about 2 miles, and from the Battery 
along East river nearly 4 miles. The early settlements 
were commenced at and near the Battery, from which 
streets were extended without reference to order or 
regularity ; and this accounts for the seeming want of 
taste in laying out the streets towards the docks and 
harbor. 

The Battery is situated at the south-west point of 
the city, opposite to Governor's island. It is hand- 
somely laid out into gravel walks, and tastefully deco- 
rated with shrubbery and trees. It is much frequent- 
ed by the citizens in the warm season, as well for the 
purpose of partaking of the refreshing sea breeze, as 
for enjoying the prospect, which, from this place, in- 
cludes the harbor with its various shipping. Governor's 
island, Bedlow's island, and Ellis' island, on each of 
which are military stations, the shores of New-Jersey 
and Long Island, with the flourishing town of Brook- 
lyn, and the numerous country seats in its vicinity. 

Castle Garden, connected with the battery by a 
bridge, is much frequented during the summer even- 
ings. It has a fine promenade, and is often rendered 
attractive by a display of fire works from its enclosure, 
and other amusements. 

Broadway, the most splendid street in the city, runs . 
through the centre and extends 3 miles in length and 
about 80 feet in width. It is the great and fashionable 



NEW-YORK. 9^ 

resort for citizens and strangers, and is much crowded 
during pleasant weather. In this avenue are Grace, 
Trinity and St. Paul's churches, the Adeiphi Hotel? 
Mansion House,~City Hotel, National Hotel, Congress 
Hall, Franklin House, American Hotel, Washington 
Hall, Masonic Hall, and a variety of shops with ele- 
gant and extensive assortments of merchandize of eve- 
ry description. 

Opposite Trinity church. Wall-street opens, which 
contains the Exchange, most of the banks, together 
with the principal part of the brokers' and insurance of- 
fices. 

On passing up Broadway still farther, is Cedar and 
Courtlandt streets, both of which lead to the Hudson 
river, where the steam-boats start for Albany, New- 
port, Providence and Boston. At thefootofCourtlandt- 
streetls the ferry to Jersey city. A little further up is 
Fulton-street, on the corner of wdiich and Broadway 
stands St. Paul's church. Fulton-street leads to the 
East river ; along the docks of which are the steam- 
boats for Bridgeport, Saybrook, Hartford, New-Lon- 
don, Norwich and New-Haven. At the foot of Barclay 
street, extending to the Hudson river w^est of the Park, 
the Philadelphia steam-boats connected with the rail 
road are located ; also a part of the Albany boats, and 
the Hoboken ferry boats. 

Above St. Paul's church is the Park and City Hall, 
situated in the centre of the city, the former containing 
about 11 acres, which are ornamented with much taste, 
and enclosed by a substantial iron railing. It furnish- 
OS a cool and fashionable resort for men of business and 
pleasure, after the fatigue and heat of a summer's day» 



100 KEW-YORK. 

On the right is the Park Theatre, and on the left Park 
Place, on the west side of which is Columbia College. 
The next street above Park Place is Murray, which 
leads to the Hoboken ferry. 

Of the public buildings, the most prominent and im- 
portant is the 

City Hall, the front of which is built of white mar- 
ble. It is 21G feet long, 105 feet broad, and, including 
the attic story, 65 feet high. The rooms for holding the 
different courts of law are fitted up in a rich and ex- 
pensive style. The room for holding the mayor's court 
contains portraits of Washington, of the different gov- 
ernors of the state, and many of the most celebrated 
commanders of the army and navy of the United States. 
The foundation stone of this building was laid in 1803, 
and the whole finished in 1812, at an expense of ,$500,- 
000. It is one of the most elegant edifices in America, 
and reflects great credit on the inhabitants for their 
munificence and taste. 

The Merchant's Exchange in Wall-street, is also 
a superb structure of white marble. Its front on Wall- 
street is 114 feet, and its depth, extending to Garden- 
street, 150 feet. The main body of the building is two 
stories high, besides the basement and an attic. A- 
bout two thirds of the basement is occupied for the 
post-office, including a spacious corridor for the con- 
venience of persons visiting the office, with entrances 
leading thereto from Wall and Exchange streets. The 
portico of the building, to which a flight of marble steps 
ascends, is ornamented - with Ionic columns 27 feet 
high. In the centre is the Exchange, of an oval form, 
85 feet long, 55 feet wide and 45 feet high, surmounted 



NEW-YORK. 101 

with a dome, from which light is reflected. The whole 
is imposing, and affords a delightful promenade. From 
the Exchange are doors and passages leading to a com- 
mercial reading room and numerous newspaper and 
other offices within the edifice. From the attic story, 
a flight of stairs leads to a telegraphic room in the cupalo, 
where signals are made and returned from the tele- 
graph at the Narrows, 7k miles distant. The height of 
the cupalo above the attic story is 60 feet. The cost of 
this building, including the ground, was ,$230,000. It 
was commenced in 1824, and completed in 3 years 
thereafter. 

The United States Branch Bank, in Wall-street, 
is an elegant white marble building, 60 feet in front. 
The lot on which it was erected cost $40,000. 

Two doors west of this is the Custom-House; on 
v/hich scite a new and splendid building is soon to bo 
erected. 

Trinity Church, in Broadway, at the head of Wall 
street, from its antique appearance, generally attracts 
the notice of strangers. The first church on this spot 
was erected in 1698. Originally small, it was enlarged 
in 1737; but during the fire which destroyed the west 
part of the city in 1776, while the British troops were in 
possession, it was destroyed, and not re- built till 17S8. 
The present building is of stone, in Gothic style, and 
much like the old one, except a diminution in size, and 
has a steeple 198 feet high. It contains a chime of 
bells, the only set in the city, and an excellent organ. 

The cemetery surrounding it is ancient, and is enclos- 
ed by a substantial and costly iron railing. No inter- 
ments have taken place in this cemetery for some years, 



10^ NEW-IORK. 

owing to a law prohibiting sepulture within the popu- 
lous parts of the city ; but it has been ascertained by 
authentic records kept, that more than one hundred and 
sixty thousand bodies have been here deposited, exclu- 
sive of the 7 years of the revolutionary war, when no 
records were kept. Among the illustrious dead who 
repose in this hallowed spot, are the remains of Gen. 
Hamilton and Capt. Lawrence. The monument over 
the grave of the former contains the following inscrip- 
tion : 

" To the memory of Alexander Hamilton, the 
corporation of Trinity church has erected this monu- 
ment in testimony of their respect for the patriot of in- 
corruptible integrity, the soldier of approved valor, the 
statesman of consummate wisdom, whose talents and 
whose virtues will be admired by grateful posterity 
long after this marble shall have mouldered into dust. 
He died July 2, 1804, aged 47." 

The monument to the memory of Capt. Lawrence, 
who was killed during the last war in an engagement 
between the U. S. frigate Chesapeake, which he com- 
manded, and the British frigate Shannon, represents a 
broken column, as emblematical of his premature death. 
It was erected at the expense of the corporation. 

Within the church, in rear of the altar, and directly 
facing the entrance of the aisle, is a beautiful and costly 
monument, erected to the memory of the distinguished 
and lamented Bishop Hobart. The design is allegori- 
cal, and highly expressive of the poetry of the art. 
The bishop is represented in his last moments, with his 
eyes lifted in confiding earnestness to heaven, which 
appears, from the peculiarity of the light, to be already 



NEvV-YORK. 103 

opening its golden gates to receive his departing spirit. 
A female form, representing Religion, supports the 
head of the dying prelate with her left arm, while the 
right extended, points upwards to the cross, surrounded 
with rays of celestial, spiritual light. The likeness is 
easily recognized, and the" attitude of the bishop, over 
whose sinking frame the lassitude of death is stealing, 
and upon whose countenance the holy and seraphic joy 
of the christian is contending with the mortal agony of 
the man, claims the warmest commendation of the art- 
ist's skill. The inscription is as follows :^" Beneath 
this chancel rest the mortal remains of John Henry 
HoBART, Rector of Trinity church in this city, bishop 
of the protestant episcopal church in the state of New- 
York. Born in Philadelphia September 14th, 1775; 
died during a visitation to the western parts of his dio- 
cese in Auburn, 12th September, 1830. The vestry, 
in behalf of the associated congregations of Trinity 
church, have caused this monument to be erected in 
memory of the public services, private virtues, and 
christian graces of their beloved and lamented pastor ; 
in testimony of their respect for the wisdom, energy 
and piety of their revered diocesan ; in honor of the 
faithful and valiant soldier of Christ, who on all occa- 
sions stood forth the able and intrepid champion of the 
church of God." 

St. Paul's Chapel is a superb structure further up 
Broadway, near the Park. It contains a portico of the 
Ionic order, consisting of four fluted pillars of brown 
stone, supporting a pediment, with a niche in the cen- 
tre containing a statue of St. Paul. Under the portico 
ys a handsome monument erected by order of Congress 
I 



104 NEW-TORK. 

to the memory of Gen. Montgomery, who fell at the 
storming of Cluebec in 1775, and whose remains were 
brought to New- York and interred beneath the monu- 
ment in 1819. The spire of this church is 234 feet 
high ; and the whole building is esteemed one of the 
best specimens of architecture in the city. In the church 
yard adjoining is an elegant monument, recently erected 
to the memory of Thomas Addis Emmet, an eminent 
counsellor at law, and brother of the unfortunate Irish 
orator, Robert Emmet. The phnth of the monument is 
one entire block, 7 feet square and 12 inches thick. 
The Egyptian obelisk, standing on its base, is also in a 
single piece, and is rising of thirty-two feet high. The 
face towards Broadway is embellished with the Ameri- 
can eagle, sheltering a harp unstrung, with a medallion 
likeness of Emmet, and with two clasped hands, having 
stars around one wrist and shamrocks around the other. 
On the face fronting Broadway is an English ; on that 
towards St. Paul's church, a Latin ; and on that to- 
wards Fulton street, an Irish inscription. 

St. John's Chapel, in Varick street, opposite Hud- 
son Square, is an elegant edifice, and the most expen- 
sive church in the city, having cost more than $200,- 
000. Its spire is 240 feet in height. 

St. Patrick's Cathedral, a Roman Catholic church, 
in Mott street, is the largest religious edifice in New- 
York. It is built of stone, is 120 feet long, 80 feet wide, 
and is a conspicuous object in approaching the city 
from the east. 

There are nearly 100 other churches in the city, ma- 
ny of which were erected at a very considerable ex- 



NEW-TORK. lOS 

pense, and are an ornament to the sections of the city 
in which they stand. 

Columbia College, above the City Hall, was char- 
tered in 1750, under the name of King's College. The 
edifice and grounds attached are extensive, and are ad- 
vantageously and handsomely located. The college 
contains a chapel, lecture rooms, hall, library, museum, 
and an extensive philosophical and astronomical appa- 
ratus. The Hon. William A. Duer, a gentleman of 
distinguished talents and learning, presides over the in- 
stitution. 

The New- York Society Library, in Nassau street, 
was commenced in 1740, and at the commencement of 
the revolution contained 3000 volumes, which were de- 
stroyed or taken away by the British troops. It was 
re-established in 1789, and now consists of about 20,- 
000 volumes, many of which are very rare and valua- 
ble. 

The Atheneum, Broadway, corner of Pine street, 
contains a reading room, which is open daily, except 
Sundays. 

The New- York Institution is in the rear of the 
City Hall. Its apartments are occupied by the Lit- 
erary and Philosophical Society, the Historical So- 
ciety, the American Academy of Fine Arts, the Ly~ 
ceum of National History, and the Asylum for the 
Deaf and Dumb. The Historical Society has a li- 
brary of 10,000 volumes, embracing many valuable 
works. 

Near the institution are the Savings Bank and Pan- 
orama Rotunda ; and a Uttle further up Broadway, th^ 



106 NEV/-TORK. 

New- York Hospital. The annual expenditure in this 
institution is about $40,000, and the annual number of 
patients from 140 to ISO. 

The Park Theatre is a spacious edifice, adjoining 
the Park. It was originally built in 1 79S, at an expense 
of $179,000, was destroyed by fire in 1820, and re-built 
the following year. It is SO feet long, 165 deep, and 55 
high, and has generally been more hberally patronized 
than any other theatre in the city. 

The American Theatre, in the Bowery, displays 
much architectural beauty, and among the modern or- 
naments of the city, stands pre-eminent. It has a front 
of 75 feet, is 1 75 feet deep, and 50 feet high. It enjoys 
a handsome patronage. 

Besides these places of amusement, there is an Ital- 
ian Opera house at the corner of Church and Leonard 
streets, a theatre at Richmond Hill, and a circus 
in Broadway, between Canal and Grand streets. 

PRINCIPAL HOTELS. 

The Adelphi Hotel, corner of Beaver street and 
Broadway, kept by Mrs. Barker, is an elegant es- 
tablishment, built of brick and stuccoed. Its situa- 
tion is in a most delightful part of the city, fronting the 
Bowling Green, and in full view of the Battery and 
harbor. It is six stories high, and possesses spacious 
and airy accommodations. 

The Atlantic Hotel, kept by Mr. M'Niel Sey- 
mour, No. 5, Broadway, is a first rate establishment, 
elegantly furnished, and well patronized. 



NKW-VOP.E. 107 

The City Hotel, a few doors north of Trinity church 
in Broadway, kept by Mr. Jennings, is an old and high- 
ly respectable establishment, and one of the most ex- 
tensive in the city, containing more than 100 parlors 
and lodging rooms, (many of them designed for private 
families) besides an assembly room, principally used 
for concerts. The rooms are furnished in the best 
style, and the house, from its central location and good 
accommodations, has always enjoyed an extensive pat- 
ronage. 

The National Hotel, kept by Mr. John Niblo, 
nearly opposite the City Hotel, is a large and excellent 
house, well furnished, and well supported. 

The Congress Hall, kept by Mr. Charles H. Webb, 
No. 144, Broadway, is well located, and affords the best 
of accommodations. 

The Franklin House, Broadway, corner of Dey 
street, kept by Mr. Newton Hayes, is pleasantly loca- 
ted, furnished in good style, and enjoys a handsome 
patronage. 

The American Hotel, kept by Mr. Milford, is 
delightfully situated, fronting the Park in Broadway, 
and is among the most favored establishments in the 
city. It is five stories high, and extends on Barclay 
street to the college of Physicians and Surgeons. Its 
public and private parlors and lodging rooms, which 
are numerous, are furnished in the best style, and it is 
extensively patronized by a fashionable and respectable 
company. 

i2 



lOB NEW-tORlt. 

The Mansion House, (Bunker's,) 39 Broadway, is & 
commodious establishment, pleasantly located, and en- 
joys a handsome patronage of genteel company. 

The Washington Hall is another extensiA^e estab- 
lishment in BroadAvay, corner of Reed street, hand- 
somely fitted up, and possessing excellent accommoda- 
tions. 

Holt's Hotel, forming an allinement on throG 
streets, the one part in Water, another in Pearl, and its 
eastern limit facing on Fulton street, and occupying the 
entire block, is one of the most extensive and expen- 
sive establishments of the kind in the United States, 
It is built of white marble, and is six stories high, ex- 
clusive of the basement, having an attic of ample di- 
mensions, and surmounted by a lofty quadrangular 
tower, around which there is an extensive and pleasant 
promenade. Above tliis there is a spacious rotundo, 
from whose exalted summit a view is obtained of near- 
ly the whole city, the Eiist river, Brooklyn, part of Long- 
Island, the entire upper bay and harbor, Staten Island, 
a very considerable extent of the Hudson river and the 
Jersey shore. In the basement story, a steam engine 
of 12 horse power is placed, by means of which ma- 
chinery is put in motion which carries up through a 
perpendicular casement the cooked provisions for the 
guests, which, by this means, are conveyed almost to 
the side of the breakfast and dining tables. The sec- 
ond floor is occupied by drawing and sitting rooms, the 
large dining room being 100 feet in length and 28 in 
breadth, well supplied with light from numerous win- 
dows, and elegantly furnished. The third floor, con- 



NEW-YORK. 109 

taining parlor, dining, retiring and receiving rooms, is 
exclusively appropriated to the accommodation of gen- 
tlemen having ladies and families. The other three 
stories and the attic, are judiciously divided into sitting 
and lodging rooms, with parlors, all of which are fur- 
nished in a style of richness and neatness, calculated to 
afford comfort and a home to every inmate. On the 
side and in the centre of the main stairway, the dumb 
waiters rise, by the aid of the steam-engine in the base- 
ment, to the tower, and by the active power of this en- ^ 
gine, and the use of forcing pumps, each story is at all 
tim.cs furnished with cold and hot water for the baths 
m the attic, and for ordinary uses in the several rooms. 
The house from the base to the foot of the tower is 100 
feet high, and 140 to the summit. There are 365 
rooms, 25 of which are parlors, 125 lodging rooms, and 
ftie residue appropriated to other useful purposes. 

Besides the foregoing public establishments, are 
Tammany Hall, (Lovejoy's) Park Row, corner of 
Frankfort street ; United States Hotel, Mr. Red- 
man, No. 178, Pearl street ; Clinton Hall, oppo- 
site the Park, in Beekman street ; Exchange Hotel, 
near the corner of "Wall and Broad streets, by Mr. 
Howard ; Merchant's Hotel, by Messrs. Thurston 
& Co. No. 108, Broad street, and several others of re- 
spectability, an enumeration of which will not be deem- 
ed necessary in this v/ork. 

Private Boarding Houses. The following are 
among the genteel and respectable private boarding 
bouses in Broadway, many of which ars extensive, and 
fitted up in a style not inferior to the best hotels : Mrs. 



110 NEW-YORK. 

Baker's, No. 13 ; Mrs. Wood's, No. 24; Mrs. Chap- 

man's, No. 33; ,No.35; Street's, No. 36 ; Mrs, 

Keese's, No. 52 ; Pcarcy's, No. 56 ; Mrs. Miller's, 
No. 57 ; Mrs. Holmes', No. 58 ; Mrs. Mann's, No, 
61 ; Mrs. Southart's, No. 65 ; Mrs. Storer's, No. 66 : 
Mrs. Waldron's, No. 126 ; Miss Wade's, No. 110. 

The prices at these houses vary from $1 to $2 per 
day, and from $5 to $10 per week. 

In point of population, this city is the "first in the 
United States, it having contained in 1830, 213,470 
inhabitants, and in respect of trade it is now and 
will probably continue the first commercial metropolis 
in America. Though it cannot vie with Philadelphia, 
in-point of beauty and regularity, New- York exhibits 
an air of novelty and grandeur very imposing to a 
stranger. Its ever bustling streets and crowded 
wharves, indicate an uncommon sprit of commercial 
enterprize. Its local situation embraces every advan- 
tage for commerce ; and the canals, by opening an 
easy communication between the fertile regions of the 
west and north and the city of New- York, have produ- 
ced an astonishing change in its growth and prosperity. 
At no very distant period. New- York, with all its nat- 
ural and artificial advantages, will probably become 
the greatest commercial metropolis in the world. 

Packets. — London packets sail from New- York on 
the 1st, 10th and 20th, and from London on the 7th, 
17th and 27th of each month. 

Liverpool packets sail from Ne\\'-York and from 
Liverpool on the 1st, 8th, 16th and 24th of each month. 



NEW-YORK. Ill 

Packets for Havre, leave New- York on the 1st, 
8th, 16th and 24th of each month, and Havre on the 
same days during the year. 

New-Orleans packets sail from New- York on the 
5th, 8th, 13th, 20th, 22d and 28th, and from New-Or- 
leans on the 1st, 5th, 13th, 15th, 20th and 28th of each 
month. 

The elegant steam packet ship, David Brown, leaves 
New-York once a fortnight for Charleston, S. C. 

PUBLIC COACHES. 

Strangers visiting New- York are liable to suffer from 
exorbitant exactions for coach hire. To guard against 
this, the corporation have licenced an adequate num- 
ber of hackmen, who may be found at several conveni- 
ent stands in the city, each coach being numbered. 
The rules and regulations to which they are subjected, 
can be found in the " Picture of New- York and Stran- 
ger's Guide," published by Mr. Goodrich, 124 Broadway, 

EXCURSIONS. 

Among the numerous places of fashionable resort in 
the vicinity of New- York, are Governor's, Bedlow's 
and Staten Islands, within the harbor ; Orange Springs, 
near Newark, Patterson, the Pasaic Falls, Hoboken 
and Weehawk, Schooly's Mountain, and Long Branch, 
in New- Jersey, on the west ; Manhattan Island, on the 
north ; and the tour of Long Island on the east. 

Governor's and Bedlow Islands are usually approach- 
ed only in row boats, and are less frequented on that 
account 



112 PATTERSON — LONG BRANCH. 

Platen Island, south of the city, was noticed at page 97. 
In an excursion to Patterson and to the Passaic Falls^ 
the Patterson rail road, which commences opposite 
New- York, will soon be in readiness for the convey- 
ance of passengers the whole distance. The company 
for constructing the road was incorporated in January, 
J 831, and the western section was completed and car- 
riages placed thereon the following year. The whole 
length of the road is about 15 miles, in a north-westerly 
direction from New- York, and when completed, will 
afford an easy conveyance to the Passaic Falls and the 
thriving manufacturing village in their vicinity. The 
perpendicular pitch is 70 feet into a narrow and rocky 
chasm. The scenery is wild and imposing ; and the 
falls are among the greatest natural curiosities of this 
country. The Morris canal, noticed at page 90, passes 
near them. 

Hoboken and Weehaiok are on the west side of the 
Hudson river, opposite the northern parls of New- 
York, near which is the Hoboken duelling ground^ 
which cannot be easily approached, except in a boat. 
A monument was here erected some years since to the 
memory of Gen. Hamilton : but it has since been re- 
moved. 

Schooly^s Mountain, 50 miles west of New- York, was 
noticed at page 91. 

Long Branch, is 30 miles southof New- York, on the 
eastern shore of New -Jersey, and on the immediate 
bank of the Atlai.iiC ocean, an extensive view of which 
is here obtained. A bathuig establishment is erected, 
and the bank, which is elevated to a height of 30 or 
40 feet for several miles, affords a beautiful promenad*. 



MANHATTAN ISLAND. US 

Sandy Hook and Neversink can be visited on this 
route, the heights of the latter affording an extensive 
view of the marine coast. 

The Harlaem Rail Road was originally designed 
to commence at 23d street, in the northern part of the 
city of New- York, and pass through the centre of the 
Fourth or Broadway ^venue to Harlaem river, at a 
point about 300 yards above the bridge, making the 
length of the road about 5 miles. Subsequently, how- 
ever, an amendment of the charter was obtained, and 
permission by the corporation granted, to extend the 
road southerly to Prince street ; one track passing 
through the Fourth Avenue, Union Place, Blooming- 
dale road, and Broadway, and another through the 
Bowery. The road is therefore about eight miles long. 
It was commenced, and so far finished in 1832, that 
passenger carriages were placed on a part of the road. 
When completed it wmII afford an additional and im- 
portant excursion to parties of pleasure. It is believed, 
also, that by providing an easy and expeditious mode of 
intercourse between the city and Harlaem, numerous 
merchants and other men of business will be induced 
to select the latter as a place of residence. A morning 
and evening ride to and from *:he city, would be a mere 
pastime, without interfering with the usual business 
hours ; and would moreover prove a healthful and in- 
vigorating exercise. 

Manhattan Island, on which New- York is located, is 
15 miles long, and on an average one and a half broad ; 
the Hudson river bounding it on the west, the Harlaem 
river on the north, the East river on the east, and the 
bay on the south. A tour of the island can be per- 



114 HURL GATE. 

formed in a few hours, and will be found to be highly 
diversified and interesting. Passing up on the west 
side, the Asylum for the Insane, on very elevated ground 
about 7 miles from the city, the heights of Fort Wash- 
ington, Harlaem and King'sbridge, are visited ; and in 
returning on the cast side. Hurl Gate, the Aims-House 
and House of Refuge. 

Hurl Gate is a narrow and apparently a dangerous 
strait in the East river, in which, at low water, there 
are numerous whirlpools or currents, occasioned by 
huge masses of rock projecting in various places, giv- 
ing to the river only a very contracted passage. At 
high water, these masses are more or less concealed, 
and the current is in a degree vmruffled. Losses of 
vessels were formerly experienced here ; but none have 
been known in some years. To avoid the dangers, 
however, incident to the navigation, a project has been 
formed of opening a ship canal between Pot and Hal- 
lett's Coves. A survey of the proposed route has been 
made, and the result of the examination is, that the 
length of the canal, to secure a sufficient depth of >va- 
ter in the coves, wdll be 2439 running feet, viz. 470 of 
excavation below high water, 1369 of high upland with 
indication of rock, and 600 of salt marsh. As the 
tide rises and falls in Hallett's Cove several minutes 
sooner than in the Pot, (Hurl Gate,) it would be ne- 
cessary to have two pairs of gates at each extremity. 
A draw-bridge would also be necessary, to accommo- 
date the ferry road which communicates from the Point 
at Hallet's Cove with the New- York shore, at the foot 
of 87th-street. The maximum cost is rated at |il62,- 



EROOKLIJf. 115 

152 for tha entire completion of a canal 137 feet in 
width at high water on the surface, 80 at bottom, and 
28 in depth, which would be sufficiently capacious for a 
line of battle ship. It is, however, believed that a ship 
canal 17 feet deep at high water, 82 feet wide between 
the banks, and 40 at bottom, would be preferable ; in 
which case the cost of completion has been estimated 
at $54,548. 

Brooklyn, (,on Long-Island,) directly opposite New- 
York, from which it is separated by the East river, is 
usually reached by steam-boats which are constantly 
plying between the foot of Fulton street and that vil- 
lage. In 1830, it had a population of 12,403, and with- 
in a few years has arisen to much importance. Its con- 
tiguity to New- York, and the facilities afforded for 
communicating between the two places, have induced 
many merchants and men of business to select it as a 
place of residence in preference to the upper parts of 
the city. The village also contains several elegant 
country seats and public gardens. Those on the bank 
contiguous to the East river, from their elevated situa- 
tion, overlooking the bay of New- York, and command- 
ing a view of a great part of the city, are peculiarly at- 
tractive and romantic. North-eastwardly of the vil- 
lage, on a tract of land called the Wallabout, is a U. S. 
navy yard, where are erected a house for the command- 
ant, several spacious ware-houses, and an immense 
wooden edifice, under which the largest ships of war 
are built. The steam frigate Fulton, which lay near 
the navy yard, and which was an object of attraction, 
was blown up at this plaee in 1829, occasioning the 

loss of several hves. 

e; 



'16 DISCOVERY OF THE HUDSON. 

Brooklyn is intimately connected with important 
events of the revolution, and in its vicinity are pointed 
out some remaining vestiges of fortifications and mil- 
itary works erected during that eventful period. The 
road to Flatbush (4 miles east) crosses the ground on 
which the battle of the 27th July, 1776, was fought, 
which resulted in a severe loss to the Americans and 
the capture of r'enerals Sullivan and Sterling. The 
marshes in which so many lives were lost in retreating 
from the British army are south of this. 

From Brooklyn to Jamaica, a pleasant village, and 
the capitol of the county of dueens, is 12 miles ; and 
from thence to Rockaway, bordering on the Atlantic, 
where an elegant public establishment, called the Pa- 
vilion, has been recently erected, is 9 miles farther. 
The roads to this place being excellent, it is much re- 
sorted to in the summer months. A fine view of the 
ocean is obtained, which from its unceasing roar and 
turbulence, is rendered unusually sublime. 

DISCOVERY OF THE HUDSON. 

From the collections of the New- York Historical 
Society, we are enabled to glean the following sketch 
of the first discovery of the Hudson river ; wliich may 
not be uninteresting to tourists about to embark on its 
waters : 

John D. Verrazzano, a Florentine, in the service of 
Francis I. of France, had been entrusted with the com- 
mand of four ships, in cruising against the Spaniards. 
These vessels being separated in a storm, the com- 
mander resolved, with one of them, to undertake a 
voyage for the discovery of new countries. About the 
middle of March, 1554, he accordingly arrived on the 



DISCOVERY OF THE HUDSON. 117 

American coast, and after having visited the coasts of 
North-Carolina and Georgia, he directed his course 
northward, and entered the harbor of the present city of 
New- York. He describes the islands (Staten, Man- 
hattan, &c.) as "fruitful and pleasant, full of hie and 
broad trees, among the which islands any navie may- 
ride safe, without any feare of tempest or other danger." 
He stayed in the harbor about 15 day si" 

Near]}' a century elapsed before any farther discove- 
ries were made on this part of the continent. It was 
reserved for Henry Hudson to make the first voyage, 
up the Hudson river. After having visited several har- 
bors, he entered the strait now called the Narrows on 
the Gth September, 1609. A boat was manned and des- 
patched by him to explore what appeared to be a river. 
In this sei-vice the boat's crew were engaged in the bay 
and adjacent waters during the day. On their way back 
to the ship, they w^ere attacked by thQ natives in two 
canoes. A skirmish ensued, in whicli one of Hudson's 
men, named Colman, was killed by an arrow which 
struck him in the throat, and two more wounded. The 
next day the remains of Colman were interred on a 
point of land not far from the ship ; which, from that 
circumstance, received the name of Colman's Point, 
and which was probably the same that is now called 
Sandy Hook. 

On the 12th, Hudson first entered the river, which 
bears his name, and sailed up about two leagues. He 
was visited by great numbers of the natives, who 
brought him Indian corn, tobacco, beans and oysters in 
great abundance. They had pipes of yellow copper, 
in which they smoked ; and earthen pots, in which they 
dressed their food. 



n3 DISCOVERT OF THE HUDSOK. 

From the VUh. to the 22d of September, Hudson waa 
employed in ascending the river. He describes it as 
abounding with great stores of salmon. In his passage 
he was visited by many of the natives, but always in 
an amicable manner. He sailed up, as is supposed, a 
little above where the city of Hudson now stands ; be- 
yond which he liimself never ascended. From this 
place he despatched a boat, (not considering it safe to 
proceed further with his vessel,) manned with five 
hands, which ascended the river, it is supposed, as far 
as where the city of Albany now stands. 

During this excursion, Hudson gave to some of the 
Indians ardent spirits, for the purpose of making an ex- 
periment on their tempers. He says they all became 
merry ; but only one was completely intoxicated. A 
tradition still exists among the six nations, that a scene 
of intoxication occurred when the first ship arrived; 
having reference, doubtless, to this event. 

Hudson began to descend the river on the 23d of 
September, having frequent intercourse with the Indi- 
ans on his way down, from whom he experienced kind 
treatment, until he descended below the Higlilands. 
Here they attempted to rob the ship, and repeatedly 
shot at the crew. He directed several muskets to be 
discharged at them, which killed ten or twelve. These 
conflicts occurred frequently during the 1 st and 2d of 
October ; but none of the ship's crew were injured. 

On the 4th of October, one month from the time he 
first landed at Sandy Hook, he sailed out of the river, 
and proceeded to sea, reaching England the 7th of No« 
vember following. 



FROM NEW-VORK TO ALBANY. 11^ 

Hudson did not give his own name to the river he 
discovered. It was called, by the Iroquois Indians, 
Cahohatatea ; by the Mohicans, Mahakaneghtuc, and 
sometimes Shaterauck. Hudson styled it the " Great 
River," or the " Great River of the Mountains." The 
name of its discoverer, however, Avas given to it soon 
afterwards. 

Hudson, in a subsequent voyage for the East India 
Company, became a prey to the mutiny of his men in 
the bay which bears his name. He was forcibly put 
into a boat with his son and seven others, who were 
mostly invalids, and, in this manner, inhumanly aban- 
doned. They were never heard of more. 

TROM NEW-YORK TO ALBANY, 

A distance, by water, of 144 miles, and by land, 
measuring between the respective post offices, of 160 
miles, a communication is alternately kept up by a line 
of stages in the winter season, and by steamboats dur- 
ing the absence of ice in the Hudson. The following 
is a table of distances between the two places : 

DISTANCE BY WATER FROM 



o 









New- York, 1^4 

Weehawken, 6 6 138 

Palisadoes, southern termination 2 8 136 

Fort Vv^ashington, 4 12 132 

Tappan Bay, southern extremity, ., . 12 24 120 

SingSing,:. 8 32 112 

k2 



120 PROM NEW-YORK TO ALBANT. 



DISTANCE BT WATER FROM 

i3 ^ 
^ S 
S fM ^ 

S i I 

O, !2; <5 

HaverstrawBay, 2 34 110 

StoneyToint, <.... 5 39 105 

Verplanck's Point, 1 40 104 

Horse Race, (Highlands,) 2 42 102 

Anthony's Nose, 3 45 99 

West Point, 5 50 94 

Pollopel Island, 6 56 88 

Newburgh, 4 60 84 

Milton, 11 71 73 

Poughkeepsie, 4 75 68 

Hyde Park, 5 80 63 

Rhinebeck, 10 90 53 

Redhook, lower landing, 7 97 46 

Redhook, upper do 3 100 43 

Gatskill, 11 111 32 

Hudson, 5 116 27 

Coxsackic, 8 124 19 

Kinderhook, 1 125 18 

New-Baltimore, 5 130 13 

Schodack, 4 134 9 

Albany, 10 144 

Boats leave New- York for Albany at 7 o'clock A. 
M. and at 5 P. M., and the trip is usually performed in 
from 12 to 14 hours — fare from $2 to ,*53,50. A morning 
boat will prove the most interesting to those who have 
never performed the route by day-light ; as it will af- 
ford an opportunity of witnessing the rich scenery and 
numerous villages and country seats between the two 
cities. 



PASSAGE OF THE HnDSONT. 121 

THE PASSAGE OF THE HUDSON. 

Besides the pleasure of a steam-boat passage, the 
Hudson river presents to the tourist a variety of natu- 
ral scenery v^rhich it will be difficult to find elsewhere 
in a journey of the same extent. To the gratification 
derived from a prospect of the beautiful and sublime ob- 
jects of nature, the effect of the most striking contrast 
is added, to render the scene truly picturesque and en- 
chanting. On the one hand are seen summits, crown- 
ed with forests, apparently impenetrable to the foot- 
steps of cultivation ; and on the other, beautiful and 
extensive lawns, checkered with the abodes of hus- 
bandry, and glowing in all the rich verdure of summer ; 
while, in the same circumstances of vision, may be seen 
the fading view of some town or city, and in perspec- 
tive a perpetual opening scenery of forests and cultiva- 
tion, plains and mountains, towns and villages, impart- 
ing to the beholder all the charms of novelty, with the 
highest emotions of the sublime. 

Weehawken, about 6 miles from the city, on the 
-west side of the river, is pointed out to the traveller as 
the ground on which Gen. Hamilton fell in a duel with 
Col. Burr. It is a small spot on the margin of the riv- 
er, with huge rocks on three sides, effectually screen- 
ing it from the observation of man, except from the riv- 
er ; and probably has, for that cause, been selected as 
a suitable place for settling affairs of honor. Till with- 
in a few years, it contained a monument erected to tha 
memory of Gen. Hamilton by the St. Andrews society ; 
feut it has been removed. His body was deposited in 



122 FORT LEL — rORT WASHINGTON. 

the ground attached to Trinity church in the city, where 
there is a handsome monument, enclosed in an iron 
raiUng. (See pages 101 and 112.) 

The Palisadoes, which first make their appearance 
on the Hudson, ahout 8 miles from New- York, are a 
range of rocks, from 20 to 550 feet in height, and ex- 
tend from thence to Tappan, a distance of about 20 
miles. In some places they rise almost perpendicular- 
ly from the shore, and form, for several miles in extent, 
a solid wall of rock, diversified only by an occasional 
fishing hut on the beach at their base, or wood slides 
down their sides, and sometimes by an interval of a 
few acres of arable land, affording an opening for a 
landing place, and a steep road leading to their top. 
On the opposite side of the river, the land is varied by 
hill and dale, cultivated fields and woods, with cottages 
and country seats. The land in this place, however, 
back from the river, rises in rocky hills, and becomes 
more precipitous as you advance into Westchester 
county. 

Twelve miles from New- York, the boat passes the 
site of Fort Lee, on the brow of the Palisadoes, at the 
height of 300 feet above the river ; nearly opposite to 
which, on a high hill on the east side of the river, stood 
Fort Washington. In October, 1776, after the evac- 
uation of New-York by the American troops, follow- 
ed the battle of Vv^hite Plains, by which name is known 
the high ground on the east, between the Hudson river 
and the Sound above Kingsbridge, whence Washing- 
ton retreated to Peekskill. Fort Washington was then 
taken by the Hessians and British, and the garrison, 



TAPPAM BAT — TARRTTOW.V. 



12S 



composed of 2600 militia and regular troops, surren- 
dered prisoners of war. The surrender of Fort Lee fol- 
lowed soon after Washington crossed the Hudson. 
There was also on the east side another fort, called In- 
dependence. 

Twenty-four miles ubove New- York the river ex- 
pands and forms what is called Tappan Bay. The lit- 
tle village of Tappan, a place of much note during An- 
dre and Arnold's conspiracy, is situated on its wes- 
tern shore. The spot of Andre's grave is still pointed 
out near this village, thxjugh his remains were convey- 
ed to England a few years since, by order of the Brit- 
ish government. This bay is from 2 to 5 miles wide, 
and 8 miles long, terminating at Teller's Point. 

About a mile above Tappan village, on the eastern 
shore, is the village of Tarrytowk, vi^here Andre was 
captured by Paulding, Van Wart and Williams, the 
American militia-men. Paulding died some years ago, 
and a monument was erected over his grave by the cor- 
poration of New-York. Van Wart died more recent- 
ly, and a monument to his memory has been erected by 
the citizens of Westchester county. It is a neat struc- 
ture of white marble, consisting of a base of three as- 
cending steps, and a pedestal upon which stands an 
obelisk ; in all, being from fifteen to eighteen feet high. 
It stands by the road side, in a retired valley in the 
town of Greensbush, about three miles east of Tarry- 
town. 

Near the northern extremity of Tappan Bay, on the 

eastern shore, is the Sing Sing state prison. It com- 

*■ prises 800 dormitaries or solitary cells, is 4 stories high, 

sad occupies about 50 by 500 feet of ground. From 



124 HAVERSTRAW BAT THF. HIGHLANDS.- 

each end of the main building, which stands parallel 
M'ith the river, in a westerly direction, are carried out 
wings, 300 feet in extent, forming a spacious inner 
yard, open only to the river. The wings, composed of 
marble, are constructed for workshops, a chapel, kitch- 
en, hospital, &c. The chapel is of sufficient dimen- 
sions to hold 900 persons. The keeper's house, on the 
south-eastern end of the main building, is also con- 
structed of marble. The number of convicts in the 
prison is usually from 800 to 1000. Its erection was 
commenced in 1825, and its cost is estimated at rising 
of $200,000. 

-Haverstraw Bat commences 34 miles from New- 
York, and terminates at Stoney and Verplanck's 
Points ,• being about 6 miles in length, and from 2 to 4 
in mdth, Haverstraw village is on the west side of 
this bay. 

The Highlands, or Fishkill Mountains, which first 
appear about 40 miles from New- York, will attract no- 
tice, not only from their grandeur and subhmity, but al- 
so from their association with some of the most impor- 
tant events of the revolution. This chain of mountains 
is about 16 miles in width, and extends along both sides 
of the Hudson, to the distance of 20 miles. The height 
of the principal has been estimated at 1565 feet. Ac- 
cording to the theory of the late Doctor Pvlitchell, this 
thick and solid barrier seems in ancient days to have 
impeded the course of the water, and to have raised a 
lake high enough to cover all the country to duaker 
Hill and the Laconick Mountains on the cast, and to 



WEST I'OINT. 125 

Shawangunk and the Catskill Mountains on the west ; 
extending to the Little Falls of the Mohawk, and to 
Hadley Falls on the Hudson — but by some convulsion 
of nature, the mountain chain has been broken, and the 
rushing waters found their way to the now New- York 
bay. At the entrance of the Highlands, on the south, 
is the site of an old fort on Verplanck's Point, opposite 
to which stood the fort of Stoney Point, which was tak- 
en from Gen. Wayne in 1778, and re-taken by him the 
same year. About two miles north of this, what is 
termed the Horse Race commences. Tliis consists of 
an angle in the river, which, for a little more than a 
mile, takes an eastwardly direction, contracted to a 
very narrow space within bold and rocky mountains ; 
one of which, Anthony's Nose, is 1228 feet high, and 
is opposite the mouth of Montgomery creek, overlook- 
ing Forts Montgomery and Clinton. These forts, under 
the command of Gen. Putnam, were captured by the 
British troops under Sir Henry Clinton, in 1777, when 
on his way to co-operate with Gen. Burgoyne ; the 
news of whose surrender, however, reached Sir Henry 
when he had proceeded as far as Kingston, 50 miles 
higher up, and changed his advance into a retreat. 
Bloody Pond, so called from its being the place in 
which the bodies of the slain were thrown after the de- 
fences of these forts, is in the rear of Fort Clinton. 

West "Point, one of the most impregnable posts 
during the revolutionary war, is situated on the west 
side of the Hudson, near the entrance of the High- 
lands on the north. It formed an important fast- 
ness of the American army during the eight years 



126 WEST POINT 

contest with the British nation ; and the consequence 
attached to it, in a miUtary point of view, was evinc- 
ed by the repeated but unsuccessful efforts of the 
enemy to obtain it. It was here that Arnold con- 
ceived the horrid purpose of bartering his country for 
gold.* This conspiracy, however, which aimed a death 
blow to liberty in the western hemisphere, resulted on- 
ly in the viniversal contempt and ignominy of Arnold, 
and in the lamented death of the unfortunate Andre. 
There are here at present a number of dwelling-houses, 
and a military academy, built on the plain which forms 
the bank of the river, 188 feet in height, to which a road 
ascends on the north side of the point. In the back 
ground, and elevated on a mass of rocks 598 feet in 
heio-ht, is the site of Fort Putnam. Silence and decay 
now mark the spot of this once formidable fortress. Its 
mouldering ruins, however, convey a pretty correct 
idea of the impregnable barrier its ramparts once pre- 
sented to the enemies of freedom. 

The Military Academy here estabhshed by con- 
gress, was first organized under the direction of the lata 
Gen. Williams, in 1802. Of the number of applicants 
for admission to this institution, a preference is usually 
given, first, to the sons of officers of the revolution; 
and secondly, to the sons of deceased officers of the 



+ The residence of Gen. Arnold was at the house 
and farm of Col. Beverly Robinson, opposite West 
Point, on the east bank of the Hudson. The house is 
still a conspicuous object, as well as the one in which 
Arnold fixed his head quarters. 



WEST POINT. 127 

late war. None are admitted under the age of 14 years, 
nor above the age of 22. The number of cadets is lim- 
ited to 250, each of whom costs the government $336 
annually ; and the whole establishment is maintained 
at an annual expense of $115,000. In addition to the 
various sciences which are taught here, the cadets are 
instructed in all the practical minutiae of tactics ; com- 
prehending the lowest duties of the private soldier, as 
well as the highest duties of the officer. They are al- 
so required to encamp for 6 or 8 weeks in a year ; dur- 
ing which time they are instructed in the manner of 
pitching and striking tents, in the various infantry evo- 
lutions, and in all the details of the camp. 

Several of the buildings at West Point are elegant, 
and among the number may be ranked a spacious and 
costly hotel. It has been erected in a style and on a 
scale which render it a great ornament to the grounds. 
It is substantially built of stone, painted yellow, and the 
lower story is surrounded on its sides with extensive 
piazzas, forming a delightful promenade. Its rear is 
upon the Hudson, and presents a delightful view up the 
river through the Highlands. The front faces the pa- 
rade ground and the ground used for the encampment. 

In the morning, the cadets drill as artillery, in front 
of the camp. The system followed is that of Lalle- 
mand. The drill of the afternoon is that of infantry. 
But the principal attraction to the visiter is the morn- 
ing and evening parade, in which the whole battalion, 
with the exception of the guard, is drawn out and car- 
ried through the manual, by the officer commanding. 

Near the north eastern extremity of the grounds, at 
the projecting point forming the abrupt bend of the 



128 NEW WINDSOR. 

river, stands a monument of white marble, consisting 
of a base and short column, on the former of which ia 
simply inscribed on one side, "Kosciusko," it having 
been erected to the memory of that distinguished patri- 
ot who resided here. Another monument stands on 
the N. W. corner of the grounds near the road from the 
landing to the hotel, upon a small hillock. It is a plain 
obelisk about 20 feet high, erected by the late Gen. 
Brown, to the memory of Col. E. D. Wood, a pupil of 
the institution, who fell leading a charge at the sortie 
from Fort Erie, on the 17th September, 1814. 

On the bank of the Hudson at the south eastern ex- 
tremity of the parade ground, and several yards be- 
neath, is a spot called Kosciusko's garden, or Koscius- 
ko's retreat. It is the place to which the Polish patri- 
ot was accustomed to retire to study, and which was 
cultivated by his own hands. Though now neglected, 
the marks of cultivation are perceptible in the regulari- 
ty of the walks and the arrangement of the trees. A 
more dehghtful spot for recreation or repose cannot be 
imagined, nor one more suitable as a retreat from the 
cares of the great world, or a sanctuary for unfortunate 
patriotism or persecuted virtue. 

PoLLOPEL Island is situated at the northern en- 
trance of the Higlilands, 6 miles above West Point. It 
consists of a mass of rock, and rises near the centre of 
the river between Breakneck Hill on the east and But- 
ter Hill on the west. The altitude of the latter is 1529 
feet — the former is 11S7 feet in height, and contains 
the rock called the Upper Anthony's Nose. 

New-Windsor. Passing the Highlands, the pros- 
pect changes into a very agreeable contrast. The bay 



NEWBUROH. 129 

of Newburgh with the village of the same name, and 
New-Windsor, and on the opposite shore the village of 
Fishkill, with its numerous adjacent manufactories and 
country seats, together with a view of the Hudson for 
many miles above, form a prospect which cannot fail 
to impart much interest. The village of New-Windsor 
stands on the margin of the river, 7 miles from West 
Point. It is calculated for a pleasant place of resi- 
dence, but in business it must yield to the rival vil- 
lage of 

Newburgh. This is an incorporated village, situa- 
ted on the declivity of a hill on the west side of the 
Hudson, 10 miles north from West Point, and 84 south 
from Albany. It contains about 600 houses, and a 
population of about 4000 inhabitants. From its situa- 
tion it commands an extensive intercourse and trade 
with the country on the west, and by means of the Hud- 
son river, with New- York. This place was for some 
time the head quarters of the American army during 
the revolutionary war ; and the " stone house" in which 
Gen. Washington quartered is still standing. On the 
opposite side of the river from Newburgh is Beacon 
Hill, one of the highest summits of the Fishkill moun- 
tains, where parties of pleasure frequently resort in the 
summer season, to witness an extent of prospect inclu- 
ding a part of the territories of five different states. 
This hill is 1471 feet in height. Half a mile south is 
the New Beacon, or Grand Sachem, 1685 feet above 
the level of the Hudson. They are called Beacon Hills, 
from the circumstance that beacons were erected oa 
their summits during the revolutionary war. The con" 



130 HYDE PARK LANDING. 

tinuation of this chain of mountains is lost in the Ap- 
palachian Range on the north east, and extends south 
as far as the eye can reach. Diminished in distancCj is 
seen West Point, environed by mountains, apparently 
reposing on the surface of the Hudson, and bathing 
their rocky summits in the clouds. 

MiLTOx, is a small hamlet, situated on the west side 
of the Hudson river, in the town of Marlborough, 11 
miles from Newburgh. This place is called the half- 
way place between New- York and Albany, being 72$ 
miles distant from each. Two and a half miles south 
of Milton, on the east side of the Hudson, is the man- 
sion house of the late Gov. George Chnton. 

PouGHKEEPSiE, 15 milcs north of Newburgh, is sit- 
uated one mile east from the Hudson, on the post 
road from Albany to New- York, and was incorporated 
in 1801. The village is about the same size of New- 
burgh, handsomely located, and a place of considerable 
trade. It is laid out in the form of a cross, the two prin- 
cipal streets crossing each other at right angles. A 
road leads down a long steep hill from Poughkeepsie 
to the landing on the Hudson river. This landing is 3 
miles above Milton. About 5 miles farther north is 

Hyde Park Landing, on the east side of the Hud- 
son river, near which are a number of country seats. 
From thence 4 miles up the river is a landing place, 
leading to Staatsberg, one mile distant, in the town of 
Hyde Park. From thence to Rhinebeck Landing is 5 
miles,* — thence to Redhook Lower Landing, is 7 miles 



*Near this place, on the west side of the river, is the 
eommencement of the Delaware and Hudson canal. It 



CAtSKll.L. 131 

— Ihence to Redhook Upper Landing, 3 miles— thence 
S miles to the seat of the late Chancellor Livingston— 
thence 7 miles to the manor house of the late Lord 
Livingston— thence one mile to Oakhill— thence one 

mile to 

Catskill. This village takes its name from a large 
creek which flows through it, and empties into the 
Hudson at that place. It is situated on the west bank 
of the river, 32 miles from Albany, and contains about 
350 dwellings, and a population in the entire town of 
nearly 5000 inhabitants. On Catskill creek are already 
a number of mills and manufactories, and the general 
appearance of the village is highly flattering, as it re- 
spects its future growth and prosperity. This village is 
in the immediate neighberhood of the Kalsbergs or Cats- 
kill mountains, which are seen for many miles along 
the Hudson, and here assume a truly majestic and sub- 
lime appearance. The highest elevation of this range 
of mountains is in the county of Greene, from 8 to 12 
miles distant from the river, including the Roimd Top, 
3804 feet, and High Peak, 37 1 8 feet in height The vil- 
lage of Catskill, which was formerly visited principally 
by men of business, has more recently become the re- 
sort of people of fashion and pleasure, who design a 
tour to the 

extends in a south-westwardly direction to the forks of 
the Dyberry on the Lackawaxen river, Pennsylvania, 
distance 103 miles, lockage 1438 feet. It was origi- 
nally intended by the company to have extended this 
canal to Keen's pond, 13 miles from its present termi- 
nation, but it has been abandoned and a rail road sub- 
stituted, which extends 3 miles west of Keen's pond to 
the Anthracite coal mines of Pennsylvania. 
l2 



132 PINE onCHARD. 

Pine Orchard, a place which, for several years past, 
has attracted the attention of all classes of men, and 
still continues to draw to it numbers of those who are 
fond of novelty, and especially of the sublime and ro- 
mantic scenery in which it abounds. Regular stages 
leave Catskill for the Pine Orchard twice a day. The 
fare is the moderate price of one dollar. The whole 
distance is 12 miles, computed as follows : From the 
village to Lawrence's tavern, 7 miles — from thence to 
the foot of the mountain, 2 miles — from thence to Pine 
Orchard, 3 miles. This distance is passed, in going, in 
about 4 hours — in returning, in about 2 hours. The 
country through which the road passes has nothing in- 
teresting in its appearance, until it reaches the moun- 
tain, being generally uneven and barren, and diversi- 
fied with but one or two comparatively small spots of 
cultivation, upon Avhich the eye can rest with satisfac- 
tion. A short tim.e is usually taken up at Lawrence's, 
for the purpose of refreshment, before encountering the 
rugged ascent of the mountains. This part of the road 
is generally good, but circuitous, and often passes on 
the brink of some deep ravine, or at the foot of some 
frowning precipice, inspiring at times an unwelcome de- 
cree of terror. The rock uoon which stands the hotel 
forms a circular platform, is of an uneven surface, and 
includes about six acres. It is elevated above the Hud- 
son upwards of 2200 feet.-^ The Hotel is 140 feet in 



*Capt. Patridge, who visited the Catskill mountains 
in 1828, made the following barometrical observ-ations : 

Altitude of the Mountain House, at the Pine Or- 
chard, above the surface of the Hudson river at Cats- 
kill village, 2212 feet. 



PINE orchahd, 133 

length, 24 feet in width, and 4 stories high, and has pi- 
azzas in front the whole length, and a wing extend- 
ing in the rear for lodging rooms. The building is 
owned by the "Catskill Mountain Association," an in- 
corporated company, with a capital of $10,000. It is 
well furnished, and possesses every convenience and 
accommodation requisite to the comfort and good cheer 
of its numerous guests. The prospect from Pine Or- 
chard embraces a greater extent and more diversity of 
scenery than is to be found in any other part of the 
state, or perhaps in the United States. The vast vari- 
ety of fields, farms, villages, towns and cities between 
the green mountains of Vermont on the north, the high- 
lands on the south, and the Taghkanick mountains on 
the east, together with the Hudson river, studded with 
islands and vessels, som.e of which may be seen at even 
the distance of GO miles, are apparent in a clear atmos- 
phere to the naked eye ; and when the scene is gradu- 



Do. of the same above the scite of Lawrence's tav- 
ern, 7 miles from Catskill, 1882 feet. 

Do. of the same above the turnpike gate at the foot 
©f the mountain, 1574 feet. 

Do. of the same above Green's bridge, 947 feet. 

The foregoing results were derived from a series of 
barometrical and thermometrical observations, made on 
the 17th July, 1823. The altitude of the Mountain 
House, as above stated, was the result of two distinct 
series of observations, made in going from the Catskill 
village to the house, aiid returning from the same to the 
village. The ascending series gave an altitude of 2225 
feet, and the descending series an altitude of 2203 feet. 
The mean of these two extremes gives 2212 feet. This 
result Capt. P. considered as a very near approximation 
to the true altitude. 



134 HUDSON. 

ally unfolded, at the opening of the day, it assumes rath- 
er the appearance of enchantment than a reality. It is 
not uncommon, at this place, to witness storms of snow 
and rain in their seasons, midway the mountain, while 
all is clear and serene on its summit. About two miles 
from the Hotel, are the Kaaterskill Falls, which 
take their name from the stream on which they are sit- 
uated. This stream takes its rise from two small lakes, 
half a mile in the rear of the Hotel ; and after a wester- 
ly course of a mile and a half, the waters fall perpen- 
dicularly 175 feet, and after pausmg a moment on a 
projection of-the rock, plunge again down a precipice of 
85 feet more, making the whole descent of the falls 260 
feet. The road to the falls is extremely rough ; but 
this objection will hardly deter the traveller from a visit 
to a spot so novel and romantic. 

Athens, five miles above Catskill, is an incorporated 
village, and contains about 1000 inhabitants. Its situ- 
ation, on a gentle slope of land, rising gradually from 
the river, gives it a very favorable appearance. The 
vicinity of Athens to Hudson, immediately opposite, 
seems to forbid that importance in point of trade, its lo- 
cation might otherwise warrant. Athens furnishes a 
number of beautiful scites on the bank of the river ; 
some of which are already occupied by the elegant 
mansions of private gentlemen. 

The City of Hudson stands on the east side of the 
river, 27 miles south from Albany. The plain on which 
Hudson is situated rises abruptly from the river, by 
banks from 50 to 60 feet in height ; and terminates on 
the east, at the foot of high lands, which overlook the 
city at an elevation of some hundred feet, and furnish 



ALBANY. 135 

a prospect of the Hudson river and scenery for many 
miles in extent. The city contained in 1830, 5392 in- 
habitants, and is daily increasing in wealth, population 
and commerce. Claverack creek on the east, and Kin- 
derhook creek on the north, afford every facility for 
mills and manufactories, in which Hudson abounds ; 
and which have entitled it to the third rank, in manu- 
factures, in the state. On the opposite side of the Hud- 
son appear a number of country seats with the farm 
houses and cultivation in the neighborhood of Athens 
and Catskill, bounded by the lofty Katsberghs, rising in 
the back ground and mingling their rugged summits 
with the clouds. 

CoxsACKiE LANDING, whcrc are several houses and 
stores, is eight miles north of Hudson. From thence 
to Kinderhook landing is 1 mile. Here are about 30 
dwellings and a post office. The village of Kinder- 
hook is situated 5 miles east. Five miles further north, 
is the village of New-Baltimore ; thence to Coeymans, 
2 miles — thence to Schodac village, 2 miles — thence to 
Castleton landing, 2 miles — thence to Albany, 8 miles, 

ALBANY 

Is the capital of the state of New- York, and in point 
of wealth, population, trade and resources, is the sec- 
ond city in the state, and the sixth or seventh in the 
Union. It is situated on the west side of the Hudson 
river, and near the head of tide water. It was settled 
in 1612 ; and next to Jamestown in Virginia, is the 
oldest settlement in the IT. S. In 1614, a small fort 
and trading house were built by the Dutch on an isl- 
and half a mile below the scite of the present city ; and 



136 ALBANY. 

soon afterwards fort Orange, where the city now stands. 
The place was first called Aurania ; then Beverwyck, 
till 1625; then Fort Orange till 1647, and Williamstadt 
till 1664. For a longtime after its foundation it was 
enclosed with palisadoes or pickets, as a defence against 
the Indians, -who were then numerous and powerful in 
its vicinity. Its charter was granted in the year 1636, 
and embraced an area of 7160 acres. A great propor- 
tion of its soil is sandy and unproductive, and under no 
system of useful cultivation. 

Though the first appearance of this city is not 
prepossessing to a stranger, still the taste which has 
been displayed in the construction of its public and 
private buildings — the constant din of commercial bu- 
siness which assails the ear of the traveller — the termi- 
nation of the Erie canal and the Mohawk and Hudson 
rail road at this place, and many other attendant cir- 
cumstances, render Albany an important and interest- 
ing spot. 

The town is divided into five wards, and contains 
many superb and elegant buildings. The principal 
streets are Market, Pearl, and State streets. The two 
former run parallel with the river, and the latter is a 
spacious one, extending from the Capitol to the Hud- 
son, nearly east and west. Besides these, there are 
many other steets, less considerable in extent, but pop- 
ulous and crowded with shops and stores. 

The Capitol, which contains the legislative halls, 
the supreme and chancery court rooms of tlie state, 
the state hbrary, and other apartments for public busi- 
ness, stands at the head of State street, on an elevation 
of 130 feet above the level of the river. It is asubstan- 



ALBANY. 



137 



tial stone edifice, erected at an expense of $120,000. 
It is 115 feet in length, 90 in breadth, and 50 feet high, 
consisting of two stories, and a basement of 1 feet. The 
east front is adorned with a portico of the Ionic order, 
having 4 magnificent cokmms, 3 feet 8 inches in diam- 
eter, and 33 feet in heiglit. In the senate and assembly 
chambers and in the room used for holding the court of 
chancery are full length portraits of Washington, of the 
various executives who have administered the govern- 
ment of the state, and of Abraham Van Vechten, Esq, 
an eminent counsellor at law residing in Albany. 
There is also in the senate chamber a good bust of Doct, 
Franklin. 

The Public Square, on the S. W. of which stands 
the Capitol, is arranged in the style of a park, is sur- 
rounded by a costly iron fence, and has several delight- 
ful walks and avenues. 

North of the Capitol stands the Academy, one of the 
most elegantly constructed buildings in the city. It 
cost about $92,000 exclusive of the lot on which it is 
erected, and some donations. It is built office stone, 
3 stories in height, and 90 feet in front. It is one of 
the most flourishing institutions in the state ; has 5 
teachers and about 140 students. 

The City Hall, fronting the foot of Washington 
street, and near the capitol square, is a costly edifice of 
white marble, displaying much taste in its structure, 
and is ornamental to the part of the city in which it 
stands, The dome is gilded, and is a conspicuous ob- 
ject at some distance from the city. 



138 ALBANY. 

The State Hall, for the offices of the secretary of 
state, comptroller, treasurer, surveyor- general, attor- 
ney-general, register in chancery, and clerk of the su- 
preme court, is situated on the south side of State-street, 
nearly equi-distant from the Capitol and the foot of the 
street. 

There are in this ciry 5 banks and 17 houses for 
public worship. Also a large brick building for the 
Lancaster school, a theatre in South Pearl street, and 
an arsenal in North Market street. The museum is in 
an elegant marble building, owned by Messrs. Thorp 
& Sprague, at the corner of State and North Market 
streets, and is one of the best in the country. 

Hotels. — The principal hotels in Albany, are the 
Eagle Tavern, South Market street ; the Adclphi Ho- 
tel, Bement's Hotel, American Hotel, State street ; 
Congress Hall, Capitol Square ; Mansion House, City 
Hotel, and Temperance House, North Market street. 
These- are all first rate establishments, elegantly fur- 
nished and well kept. 

On a less expensive scale, are the Fort Orange Ho- 
tel, Colum.bian Hotel, Exchange Coffee House, and 
Montgomery Hall, South Market st. ; and the Frank- 
lin House, State street. 

During the sessions of the New- York Legislature, 
Albany is crowded with strangers, and contains much 
of the legal talent and learning of the state. The city 
is eligibly situated for trade, being the great thorough- 
fare for the northern and western sections of the coun- 
try. 

The Albany Basin, where the waters of the Erie 
canal unite with the Hudson, consists of a part of the river 



ALBANY. 139 

included between the shore and an artificial pier erect- 
ed SO feet ^in width and 4,300 feet in length. The pier 
contains about 8 acres, and is connected with the city 
by draw bridges. It is a grand and stupendous work, 
on which spacious and extensive stores have been erect- 
ed, and where an immense quantity of lumber and oth- 
er articles of trade are deposited. Its original cost was 
$130,000, and the different lots were sold at public auc- 
tion at a considerable advance. The basin covers a 
surface of 32 acres. 

A mineral spring was discovered in Albany a few 
years since, by boring through a slate rock to the depth 
of 500 feet. '^ The partners in this, however, having dis- 
agreed, one of them (McCuUoch, a Scotchman) com- 
menced boring on his own account, in the same neigh- 
borhood, and at the depth of 617 feet struck upon an- 
other, much superior in its qualities. It contains a large 
quantity of muriate of soda, and is an active cathartic. 
The spring is enclosed in a handsome garden, and is a 
place of resort for citizens and strangers. 

EXCURSIONS. 

The environs of Albany are pleasant, affording many 
delightful walks and rides, and the adjacent cities of 
Troy and Schenectady, and the villages of Lansing- 
burgh and Waterford, the Cohoes Falls, the Shaker 
settlement at Niskayuna, &c. furnish points for short 
and interesting excursions. 

On the road to Troy, the first object which usually 
attracts the attention of the tourist is the mansion of 
Gen. Stephen Van Rensselaer, the patroon of the 



140 U. S. ARSENAL. 

manor of Rensselaerwick,* which stands at the north- 
ern extremity of Albany, and which is one of the most 
elegant situations in the United States. The munifi- 
cence and liberality of its opulent and distinguished 
proprietor are proverbial. There are few charitable 
or scientific institutions in the state of which he is not 
a benefactor ; and he has probably contributed more 
than any other citizen towards the fostering of agricul- 
tural and literary improvements. 

The McAdamized Road between Albany and Wa- 
tervliet, opposite Troy, commences at this place. It 
runs parallel with the Erie canal, near its western bank, 
is between 5 and 6 miles long, of a width sufficient for 
three carriages to run abreast, and is one of the most 
elegant roads on the continent. The vales and hills 
through which it passes have been sufficiently elevated 
or depressed to afford either a level or a very moderate 
inclination ; so that the speed of a carriage over the 
whole is uninterrupted. It is the property of an incor- 
porated company, who have expended between $90,000 
and $100,000 in its construction. 

Five miles from Albany is th^ U. S. Arsenal, con- 
sisting of handsome brick and stone buildings, beau- 
tifully located on the western bank of the Hudson. 
There is here a large quantity of arms and munitions 
of war, with workshops for repairing them, manufac- 
turing locks, &c. The muskets, bayonets, swords and 



* This manor comprises a great portion of the coun- 
ties of Albany and Rensselaer — the city and several 
patents excepted. 



CITY OF TROY. 141 

pistols are arranged with great taste and kept in fine 
order. Among the cannon in the yard are four 12 
pounders, one 24, and one howitzer, taken at Sara- 
toga; four 12's and one howitzer, taken at Yorktown ; 
two long antique pieces and one eight inch mortar, 
taken at Stoney Point ; two old French 4 pounders 
and 14 guns, sent by Louis XVI. to the continental 
congress in the revolution — all of brass, and most of 
them highly ornamented, with each an individual name 
and the inscription " ultima ratio regium," There are 
also three or four howitzers cast in New-York and 
Philadelphia in the revolution, some of the oldest spe- 
cimens of this manufacture in the country, and bearing 
the initials U. C. for United Colonies. 

Haifa mile further is the village of Watervliet, or 
rather from the Arsenal to and including West Troy or 
Port Schuyler, is a continuous village, which has rap- 
idly increased within a short period. 

From Watervliet, there are two routes to AVaterford ; 
one leading through Troy and Lansingburgh, and the 
other by the Junction of the Erie and Northern canals 
and the Cohoes falls ; one of which can be taken in 
going from, and the other in returning to Albany. 
The Troy and Lansingburgh route. 

The Hudson which is here about one fourth of a mile 
wide, is crossed in a horse ferry-boat from Watervliet 
to the 

City of Troy. It is bounded on the east by a range 
of hills rising abruptly from the alluvial plain on which 
the city is situated, extending to the Hudson river. In 
point of location and beautiful natural scenery, Troy ia 



142 CITY OF TROT. 

exceeded by few, if any, of the towns and villages on 
the Hudson. The streets, running north and south, 
converge together at the north end of the city, and are 
crossed at right angles by those running east and west. 
The buildings are principally built of brick, and are 
shaded by rows of trees on each side of the streets 
which are preserved remarkably clean, by additions of 
slate and gravel, instead of pavements. The city con- 
tains three banks, seven churches, a court house, jail 
and market. The Episcopal church is a superb speci- 
men of Gothic architecture, probably not exceeded in 
the United States. It has a venerable and imposing 
appearance, and needs nothing but a quantity of moss 
and ivy to make it the picture of one of those ancient 
abbeys so often to be met with in the writings of Sir 
Walter Scott. A large three story brick building has 
also been erected at the expense of the corporation, for 
the accommodation of the female seminary incorporat- 
ed at this place. This institution is under the govern- 
ment of a female principal (Mrs. Willard) and several 
assistants, whose exertions have given it a deserved 
celebrity over similar institutions in the state. There 
are annually educated at this seminar}'^ from 60 to 80 
females. The population of Troy in 1830, was 1 1,605.* 



+ A rail road is now constructing from this city to 
Ballston Spa, which runs parallel with the Hudson 
river to Mechanic's Ville, 1 2 miles above Troy, from 
whence it passes in a north westerly direction to its 
point of termination. 



LANSlNGBtTRGH— WATERFORD. 14$ 

jyiount Ida in the rear of Troy, is a romantic spot^ 
affording a very extensive prospect of the Hudson river 
and the adjacent country. 

About a mile above the city, a dam has been thrown 
across the river, and a lock constructed, affording a 
sloop navigation to the village of Waterford. 

One mile and a half from Troy is the Rensselaer 
school, which was established by, and is under the pat- 
ronage of Gen. Stsphen Van Rensselaer. It is a valu- 
able and flourishing institution. 

Lansincburgh, three miles from Troy, is principally 
built on a single street, running parallel with the river. 
A high hill rises abruptly behind the village, on which 
is seen the celebrated diamond rock, which at times 
emits a brilliant lustre from the reflected rays of the 
sun. The appearance of Lansingburgh by no means 
indicates a high state of prosperity, though it contains 
several very handsome private residences. The village 
has a bank, two places of public worship, and an acad- 
emy. Its population in 1830, was 2663. About a mile 
north, a well built and handsome bridge extends across 
the Hudson river to the village of 

Waterford. This village is situated at the junc- 
tion of the Mohawk with the Hudson, and derives con- 
siderable importance from the navigation of small ves- 
sels, which, by means of the lock and dam below, at 
most seasons of the year arrive and depart to and from 
its docks. The village contained in 1830, a population 
of 1473 inhabitants. It enjoys many advantages for 
trade, and its importance is much increased by the 
m2 



144 COHOES FALLS. 

northern canal, which communicates with the Hudsont 
river at this place. 

The Junction and Cohoes route. 

From Watervliet to Waterford, by the Cohoes falls, 
the distance is about the same as by Troy, (4 miles.) 
West Troy or Port Schuyler, which may be consider- 
ed a continuation of Watervliet, owes its origin and 
growth to the Erie canal, which passes through the vil- 
lage, and ffom which there is a side cut to a basin in 
the river. 

The Junction of the Erie and Northern canals is 
two miles farther. Here, within the space of three 
quarters of a mile, are 17 locks; and the number of 
boats constantly passing through, present a spectacle 
of activity and business of a highly novel charac- 
ter. The locks are of the best workmanship, and 
are justly ranked among the most important works 
t)n the canal. About a mile farther, the Mohawk 
river is crossed by an excellent bridge in full view 
of the 

Cohoes Falls, wich are a short distance above. 
The perpendicular fall is about 40, and including the 
descent above, about 70 feet. The lofty barrier of 
rocks which confine the course of the Mohawk — the 
distant roar of the cataract — the dashing of the waters 
as they descend in rapids beneath you — and the strik- 
ing contrast of the torrent with the solitude of the 
scenery above, contribute to render the whole an unu- 
sual scene of sublimity and grandeur. An old tradition 



VAN schaick's island. 145 

states, that a chief of the Mohawks attempting to cross 
in his canoe, embarked too near the current of the falls 
to escape their descent. I'inding himself unable to re- 
sist the influence of the current, which hurried him fast 
to the summit, with true Indian heroism, he turned his 
canoe into the stream, assumed his station at the helm, 
and with a paddle in one hand and his bottle in the oth- 
er, was precipitated over the brink. It was in taking a 
view of these falls, about 35 years since, that the poet 
Moore composed one of his best fugitive pieces. In- 
deed, the scenery and every thing connected with this 
interesting spot, are calculated to afford ample subjects 
for the poet and painter. 

Between this place and Schenectady, (noticed in a 
subsequent page,) the canal is carried twice across the 
Mohfiwk. The lower aqueduct, as it is called, 2i miles 
from the falls, is 11S8 feet long, and rests on 26 stone 
piers and abutments — the other aqueduct, 12 miles fur- 
ther, is 750 feet long, and rests on 16 piers. These 
works were completed at great expense, and must have 
required immense labor. 

From the Falls to Waterford (noticed at page 143) is 
one mile. 

Van Schaick's Island is situated in the vicinity of 
Waterford, and is formed by the sprouts of the Mo- 
hawk river joining with the Hudson river, 9 miles north 
of Albany. This spot is noted for being the head quar- 
ters of the American army in 1777 ; from whence they 
marched, in September of the same year, to the decisive 
victory over Burgoyne, at Bemus' Heights. 



146 SHAKER SETTLEMENT. 

The Shaker settlement at Niskayiina, is 8 milefe' 
north-west of Albany. A visit to these singular pec 
pie is well deserv^inrr the attention of the traveller. The 
Shakers arc the followers of Ann Lee, called by them 
Mother Ann, a religious enthusiast, who was born in 
England some time antecedent to the revolutionary 
war, and while yet in her yoiith, suffered much tribula- 
tion and deep exercises of spirit, in her conversion 
from the sin of this world to a state of greater perfec- 
tion. She endured severe trials and much persecu- 
tion, according to her own account, from her country- 
men ; but was afterwards favored with visions and 
an exhibition of miracles in her favor. Although in 
early life herself the wife of a poor blacksmith, the 
principal tenet of her creed is absolute and entire celib- 
acy, which is defended on various spiritual grounds, 
and fully set forth in a work recently published by the 
society. In consequence of the persecutions experi- 
enced by Mother Ann in England, she came to this 
country and established a small society which has been 
followed by the establishment of others, of which this is 
one. Her followers regard her memory with pious 
veneration, and consider themselves as the only people 
in possession of the true light. Some of the oldest and 
most perfect members, it is said, pretend to " speak 
with tongues," heal diseases by a touch, &c. The 
marriage contract is dissolved on joining their society ; 
their association is a perfect community of goods, all 
private property being thrown into the common stock, 
and they profess to banish the love of ambition, wealth 
and luxury from their gloomy territories. 



SHAKEK SETTLEMENt. 14T 

They own at this place two thousand acres of excel- 
lent land, laid out and kept in the order, neatness and 
cleanliness, which always distinguish their sect. This 
is divided into four farms, or families, as they are call- 
ed, occupied by about seventy-five persons each, of 
both sexes and all ages. They cultivate garden stuffs, 
seeds, &c. for sale, as well as every thing necessary for 
their own support, and they manufacture various use- 
ful and ornamental articles. These, as well as the sur- 
plus produce of the farm, are sold, and the avails de- 
posited in one of the Albany banks until required. 
The division of labor which they carry into practice, 
every occupation being entrusted to separate members, 
and their econominal habits, render their gains very 
considerable. The men work as farmers, carpenters, 
shoemakers, tailors, &c. ; the women at weaving, spin- 
ning, washing, cooking, and in the duties of the farm, 
making and mending clothes, the occupations of each 
sex being performed in separate buildings. They also 
eat separately, and neither of them will sit down to a 
meal with what they call the " world's people." The 
dress of the men is the usual quaker drab, perfectly 
plain ; that of the women grey, with white caps, all 
made as plain and easy as possible. They all have a 
peculiar walk, but especially the females, in conse- 
quence of their mode of worship, from which they de- 
rive the name of Shakers — a strange and disagreeable 
mode of dancing, accompanied with a monotonous 
gong. The young members of the community are reg- 
ularly taught the steps in this dance by the older ones, 
before they are permitted to join in public worship. It 
/3 usual before the admission of a member to all the 



143 orfARiJR SETTLEMENT. 

privileges of the society, to impose a noviciate of three 
months, when, if he so desires, he may leave them ; if 
not, he is regularly admitted a member, and throws his 
property into the common stock. 

Notwithstanding the severity of their discipline as to 
celibacy, it is said the harmony of their society was 
lately much disturbed in consequence of a "love affair." 
A young man and woman, both belonging to the socie- 
ty, in despite of the doctrines of their leader, fell from 
their estate of " single blessedness," and yielded to a 
worldly attachment. This heresy, as might be expect- 
ed, produced considerable commotion. The members 
wrestled with the tempter, and the elders prayed for 
and with the victims to the dreaded enemy of the sect ; 
but all to no purpose. They left the society and were 
married. It is creditable, however, to the members, that 
after finding their efforts to prevent this result unavail- 
ing, they sent the happy pair sufficient furniture for 
comfortable house-keeping, assigning as a reason that 
they had labored for the society, and that it was no 
more than justice to reward them.* 

Stages leave Albany daily for Lebanon Springs and 
Boston ; and 

Steam Boats leave for New- York at 7 A. M. and 
4 P. M. 



* Since the foregoing event, we are t.»ld another de- 
reliction from the rules of Mother Ann has taken place 
in the society, which also resulted in marriage. 



FROM ALBANY TO SARATOGA SPRINGS. 149 



FROM ALBANY TO SARATOGA SPRINGS. 
BY RAIL ROAD.* 

The distance from Albany to Saratoga Springs is 
36i miles, as follows : 



Miles, 
From Albany to Bu- 

el's Farm, 3 

Schenectady, 12 



Miles. 

Ballston Lake, 10 

Ballston Spa, 5 

Saratoga Springs, ... 6| 



The route is by the way of the Mohawk and Hud- 
son and the Saratoga and Schenectady rail roads, the 
line being continuous to Saratoga Springs, and a pas- 
sage effected in about four hours. The carriages of 
the Mohawk and Hudson company start several times 
a day from the depot on the north side of State street, 
a little below the Capitol Square in Albany, and the 
trains on the Saratoga and Schenectady road are made 
to correspond therewith. By means of these improve- 
ments, a ride to the Springs, which was formerly tardy, 
and attended with clouds of dust and much fatigue and 
lassitude of body, now constitutes one of the greatest 
sources of novelty and pleasure in a visit to those cele- 
brated fountains of health. Freed from all care or ap- 
prehension of danger, the travellar glides through a 
country diversified with much interesting scenery, 
encountering in his course, from the rapidity of the mo- 
tion, a current of air sufficient to render even a sum- 



* Since the completion of the rail roads, this is the 
usual route now taken from Albany to Whitehall, 
Montreal, &c. the distance being about the same as by 
the old road, and the route being performed several 
hours sooner. 



150 MOHAWK AND HUDSON RAIL ROAD. 

mer's sun agreeable, and finds himself at the far-famed 
Saratoga, ere he is aware that it is possible he can have 
overcome the distance in so short a space of time. 

The Mohawk and Hudson Rail Road, was com- 
menced in the summer of 1830, and a single track so 
far completed, that passengers were conveyed over 12| 
miles thereof in one year thereafter. Since then, a 
second track has been made, and a branch constructed 
from State street in Albany, which unites with the 
main road, about 2^ miles from the city. The main 
line commences on the Hudson river, about a mile 
south of State street, and crosses South Pearl street, 
under a fine stone arch of durable materials and hand- 
some construction ; from whence it passes up the 
hill with an inclination of one foot in eighteen until it 
reaches the summit, one hundred and eighty-five feet 
above the Hudson. At this place a building is erected 
which contains a double stationary engine, estimated 
at twelve horse power, Vv'hich is used in hauling freight 
waggons up the plane. 

The road then proceeds north-w^esterly up to the 
head of Lydius street, and passes over two heavy and 
high embankments, and through two or three deep cut- 
tings near the alms-house. 

From the head of Lydius street, it proceeds in a per- 
fectly straight line, (with the exception of a small curve, 
which, with most people, passes unnoticed,) for 12 
miles, crossing the heavy embankment called the Buel 
viaduct, and ascending a plane of about three miles, of 
one foot in 225. Afterwards ascending b}^ two or three 
other planes of different points, and crossing several 
water-ways upon embankments, it proceeds to the I 



MOHAWK AND HUDSON RAIL ROAD. 151 

Schenectady summit. The ascent to this summit from 
the level of the Hudson is 335 feet. At this point, to 
which we have in imagination conducted our readers, a 
beautiful view is obtained of the Erie canal, the Mohawk 
river, and the city of Schenectady. A double stationary 
engine is placed here and may thus be described : In 
the cellar of a house which is built on stone foundations 
across the road, and on the north side, are placed the 
boilers. The steam is conducted into two horizontal 
cylinders, firmly secured, 7^ inches in diameter. The 
shackle bars are connected with an axle, on the extrem- 
ity of which is a crown wheel, working in another at 
right angles,.on a shaft placed vertically. This vertical 
shaft carries at its upper end, which is near the surface 
of the road and directly in its centre, a large wheel, 
around the circumference of wliieh the hauling ropes 
pass, and run on rollers placed at regular distances 
down the plane. The plane overcomes a height of 115 
feet, with an inclination like that near the Hudson, 
and running down a heavy embankment, strikes the 
Saratoga and Schenectady rail road and the Erie canal 
about half a mile from the principal street in Schenec- 
tady ; but the track is prolonged upon a level to State 
street, opposite Davis' Hotel. 

The soil through which the road passes is generally 
sandy. Some considerable elevations are cut through, 
and several ravines crossed. The slopes left by the 
cutting, or Sormed by the embankment, are mostly cov- 
ered by sods. No settling of the road has taken place 
except to a very slight degtee in some of the embank- 
ments, which is easily rectified. 

N 



152 buel's farm. 

With the exception of the embankments, stone blocks 
are principally used to support the rails, which are Nor- 
way pine, plated with iron. The blocks rest on broken 
stone well rammed down in trenches ; and the entire 
workmanship of the road, which was under the direc- 
tion of J. B. Jervis, Esq. as engineer, is probably not 
surpassed by any construction of the kind in this coun- 
try or in Europe. 

Passengers are carried upon this road in coaches, 
drawn by horses, and by locomotive engines. 

A part of the coaches are built like the common post 
coaches, peculiar to our own country, carrying from 9 
to 12 passengers; and a part are constructed some- 
what similar to those used on the Manchester and Liv- 
erpool road, accommodating from 18 to 24 passengers 
each, divided into apartments of six or eight. 

The entire cost of this road, including carriages and 
fixtures, has been about ,$900,000. 

The Farm of Jesse Buel. Esq. is crossed by the 
rail road, about three miles from Albany. It consists 
of 80 acres, has been wholly reclaimed from commons 
jince 1818, and is now under profitable cultivation. 
Mr. B.'s improvements consist in selecting the best im- 
plements adapted to his soil — in substituting fallow 
crops for naked fallows — in extensively and successful- 
ly cultivating the Swedish and common turnip as a se- 
cond crop, after clover and small grains — in introducing 
new and valuable grasses — in the cvdtivation of five 
fences, which he has growing ot' the white European 
thorn, of the native thorn of our woods, and of the three 
thomed or honey locust — and in the economy and ap- 
plication of ordinary, and tie use oC new manures. His 



SCHENECTADY. 153 

object has been to grow only good crops, and these with 
the least expense. As early as 1827, he sold from 64 acres 
in tillage and grass, under iarm culture, produce to the 
amount of more than ,$1500, exclusive of the consump- 
tion of a large family. His kitchen and flower gar- 
dens, abounding in the finest native and foreign fruits, 
ornamental trees, shrubs and flowers, will also be visit- 
ed with interest. Upon the same farm is the 

Albany Nursery, which is under the management 
of Messrs. Buel & Wilson. It already covers 10 or 12 
acres, and is extended annually, embracing not only 
the most choice American fruits and ornamental plants, 
but also the finer varieties of France, Germany, Eng- 
land, &c. many of which have been received from the 
London Horticulural Society, of which Mr. B. was 
elected a corresponding member in 1824. Attached to 
this establishment is a green house, containing an ex- 
tensive collection of beautiful exotics, among which 
are several varieties of the splendid Cornelia or Japan 
rose, and other rare Asiatic plants. There are few es- 
tablishments of the kind, indeed, in the country, pos- 
sessing more interest, or entitling their proprietors to 
greater commendation. 

SCHENECTADY, 

Fifteen miles from Albany, and 21 § from Saratoga 
Springs, is situated on tlie Mohawk, a broad and beau- 
tiful river, which forms its northern boundary. It was 
burnt by the Indians in 1690, and suflfered a considerable 
conflag-ration in 1819, since wliich event the antique 
appearance of the city has been much improved by the 
introduction of modern architecture. The principal 



154 SCHENECTADY. 

Hotel is kept by Mr. Davis, (formerly Givens,) in the 
south-east part of the city and within a few rods of the 
Ei-ie canal. The building is constructed of brick, 50 
feet front, and with its wings, 2 stories high, exclusive of 
the basement story, extends back 150 feet. The main 
building is 3 stories in height, besides an attic story, 
containing an apartment for a billiard room. From 
this elevated spot a view may be had of the city and its 
environs, of the Mohawk and of the canal for some dis- 
tance, and of the rich and variegated landscape which 
spreads on the south and west of the city. The Hotel 
can accommodate 130 guests ; and they receive every 
attention and accommodation that can contribute to 
their convention and amusement. Union College is 
built on an eminence, which overlooks the city and the 
Mohawk for a number of miles. The college consists 
at present of two brick edifices, but the plan includes a 
chapel and other buildings hereafter to be erected, in 
the rear, and between those already constructed. At 
this institution about 200 students are educated annu- 
ally. The expense per annum is $130. In numbers 
and respectability Union College may be ranked among 
the most favored seminaries in our country. A hand- 
some bridge has been constructed across the Mohawk, 
at the west end of the city, 997 feet in length, and is 
passed by the Saratoga and Schenectady Rail Road 
and by the stage on its route to Utica. 

The city contains two banks, two printing offices, six 
churches, a spacious and handsome city hall, and a 
population of about 5000 inhabitants. 



SARATOGA AND SCHENECTADY RAIL ROAD. 155 

At Schenectady, stages and packet boats leave three 
times a day for Utica, the route to which is noticed in 
the subsequent pages of this work. 

The Saratoga and Schenectady Rail Road com- 
mences on the north side of the Erie canal, in Sche- 
nectady, near the Mohawk and Hudson road, (with 
which it is connected by a bridge,) and extends across 
the city through an excavation about 12 feet deep, 
which is walled on either side, to the Mohawk bridge 
over the Mohawk river. A double track is made on 
the bridge, so that no interruption or inconvenience is 
experienced on the part of rail road or other passengers. 
From the bridge the road extends in a northerly direc- 
tion over an embankment, varying from 8 to 25 feet 
high, across the Mohawk flats, for 3 fourths of a mile, 
to a sand hill, which is cut through at a depth of from 
30 to 40 feet. From thence the road pursues a north- 
easterly direction, in full view of the Mohawk river, un- 
til it enters the valley of the Eel place creek ; when it 
curves and maintains a northerly course, passing along 
the elegant and verdant banks of the Ballston Lake, and 
enters tiie eastern part of the village of Ballston Spa, 
on a curvature of considerable extent. From this point 
the road passes in a northerly direction over the main 
street, on a bridge about 15 feet high, and by means of 
a heavy embankment, reaches the high grounds north 
of the village. From thence a north-easterly course is 
taken across the Kayaderosseras creek, over a sub- 
stantial bridge, and continues in a straight line, with 
the exception of two slight curves, to Saratoga Springs. 
It enters the latter place at the south-west part of the 
village, and runs for a short distance nearly parallel 
n2 



156 SARATOGA AND SCHENECTADY RAIL ROAD. 

with the main street, when it curves up to the same on 
elevated ground immediately north of the United States 
Hotel, and in full view of the principal public establish- 
ments. 

The road is about 21^ miles long, and is over a re- 
markably level country, not requiring the use of sta- 
tionary power, and not having on any part an inclina- 
tion of more than 16 feet per mile. With the excep- 
tion of about 3 miles of stone blocks, near Saratoga 
Springs, the road is made of substantial and durable 
wooden materials, saving the iron rails. 

The ceremony of first breaking the ground was per- 
formed at Saratoga Springs, by the Hon. C. C. Cam- 
BRELENG, the then President of the company, on the 20th 
of August, 1831, on which occasion a pertinent address 
was delivered by the Hon. Esek Cowen, and the work 
actively commenced about the 10th of September fol- 
lowing. The grading was well advanced in the au- 
tumn, and carriages placed on the road for the convey- 
ance of passengers on the 12th of July following. The 
entire cost of the road, including carriages, engines, fix- 
tures, land, &c. was about $300,000. 

The carriages are unusually elegant and spacious, 
and the travel has already much exceeded the public 
expectations. Indeed, little doubt remains of the road 
proving an advantageous and profitable investment to 
the stockholders ; for besides the ordinary summer trav- 
el to the Springs, which is annually increasing, and 
wliich this road will tend very much to augment, it is 
likely to prove the great thoroughfare between Albany 
and the Canadas. One half of the distance from Alba- 
ny to Whitehall on Lake Champlain, by this route is 



balLston spa. 157 

overcome by rail road ; and the distance being about 
the same as by the old travelled road, and the time em- 
ployed in passing from one point of the other lessened 
by several hours, few travellers hesitate in giving it a 
decided preference. 

Ballston Lake, or Long Lake, as it is sometimes 
called, is 10 miles from Schenectady, the rail road pass- 
ing aloag its verdant and elegant banks. A farm house 
between the lake and road, owned by Mr. Elisha Cur- 
tis, and which he contensplates fitting up for the accom- 
modation of fishing parties, was formerly the residence 
of a Mr. M' Donald, the guide of Sir William Johnson, 
on his first visit to the mineral springs at Saratoga, in 
1767. Mr. M'D. v/as a native of Ireland, and on his 
first arrival in America, settled with his brother, in 1763 
on this spot, where he continued to reside until his de- 
cease, in 1823. Sir William passed some days at this 
house at the time of the visit above mentioned. The 
lake is a beautiful sheet of water 5 miles long and 1 
broad. The scenery around affords a pleasing land- 
scape of cultivation and wood lands, no less inviting to 
the sportsn;an than the soft bosom of the lake and its 
finny inhabitants to the amateurs of the rod, 

BALLSTON SPA, 

Is 5 miles farther. The village lies in the town of 
Milton, in the county of Saratoga ; and is situated in a 
low valley, through the centre of which flows a branch 
of the Kayaderosseras, with whose waters it mingles 
at the east end of the village. The natural boundaries 
of Ballston Spa are well defined by steep and lofty hills 
of sand on the north and west, and by a ridge of land 



15S BALLSTON SPA. 

which gradually slopes inward, and encircles the vil- 
lage on the south and east. The broad and ample 
Kayaderosseras, whose stream gives motion to a neigh- 
boring mill, flows on the north-east boundary of the 
village, and furnishes a favorite resort for the sports- 
man on the bosom of its waters, or for the loiterer 
along its verdant banks. The village was incorporated 
in 1807, and is under the direction of a board of trus- 
tees, who are chosen annually. It contains 150 houses, 
and about 1000 inhabitants. Besides the court house 
for the county, and the clerk's office, which are located 
here, there is an Episcopal and a Baptist church, two 
printing offices and a book-store, with which a reading 
room is connected for the accommodation of visitants. 

Ballston Spa principally derives its celebrity from 
the mineral springs which flow here and at Saratoga 
in equal abundance. The spring first discovered in the 
vicinity stands on the flat, nearly opposite the board- 
ing establishment of Mr. A.ldridge. It formerly flowed 
out of a common barrel, sunk around it, without any 
other protection from the invasion of cattle, who often 
slacked their thirst in its fountain. Afterwards the 
liberality of the citizens was displayed in a marble curb 
and flagging, and a handsome iron railing. The curb 
and flagging were finally removed, leaving the raihng, 
which still serves the purposes of ornament and pro- 
tection. The spring flows now, probably, from the 
place where it originally issued, some feet below the 
surrounding surface, which has been elevated by addi- 
tions of earth, for the purpose of improving the road in 
which it stands. 



BALLSTOK SPA. 159 

Near this spring, in boring five or six years since, 
a mineral fountain called the New Washington 
Spring, was discovered at a considerable depth beneath 
the surface. Its qualities are somewhat similar to those 
of the spring last mentioned. 

The Sans Souci Spring is situated in the rear of the 
Sans Souci, and is considered the most prominent foun- 
tain in the village. According to an analysis of Doct. 
Steel, one gallon of the water contained the following 
ingredients : cloride of sodium, 143f grs. ; bicarbonate 
of soda I2h grs. ; bicarbonate of magnesia, 39 grs. ; 
carbonate of lime, nearly 6 grs. ; hydriodate of soda, li 
grs. ; silix, 1 gr. Near this fountain a large and com- 
modious bathing house has been erected ; to which, 
not only the waters of this, but of a number of other 
adjacent springs, are tributary, for the purpose of bath- 
ing. Between the springs already mentioned, there was 
discovered in the summer of 1817, a mineral spring, 
called the Washington Fountain. This latter spring 
rose on the margin of the creek in front of the factory 
building ; it flowed through a curb 28 feet in length 
sunk to the depth of 23 feet, and was liberated at the 
top in the form of a beautiful jet (Veau ; but the spring 
disappeared in 1821. Numerous attempts have since 
been made to recover it, but they have proved fruitless. 

Low's Srring is near the Sans Souci, and is very 
similar in its qualities and properties. 

The Park vSpring is in the rear of the Village Hotel, 
and was obtained by boring to a depth of 270 feet. A 
copious stream flows therefrom, tastefully displayed in 
a iiiiiall basin, secured at the top of the tube which con- 



160 BALLSTON SPA- 

tJncta the water to the surface. The water, however, 
affords nnSich less of the saline substances than either 
of the other springs. 

The principal ingredients of these waters consist of 
muriate of soda, carbonate of soda, carbonate of limey 
carbonate of magnesia, and carbonate of iron ; all of 
which, in a greater or less degree, enter into the com- 
position of the waters, both here and at Saratoga. 

The principal boarding houses are the Sans Souci, 
Aldridge's, the Mansion House, the Village Hptel, and 
the Temperance House. 

The Sans Souci, with its 3'ards and out houses, oc- 
cupies an area of some acres in the cast part of the vil- 
lage. The plan of the building, with the extensive im- 
provements around it, do much credit to the taste and 
liberality of its proprietor. The establishment was for- 
merly the property of a Mr. Low, of New- York ; from 
whom it passed into the hands of Mr. Loomis, its 
present owner, and under whose management the most 
entire satisfaction is given to its annual visitants. The 
edifice is constructed of wood, tliree stories high, 16Q 
feet in length, with two wings extending back 153 feet^ 
and is calculated for the accommodation of 130 board- 
ers. It is surrounded by a beautiful yard, ornamented 
w^ith a variety of trees and shrubbery, whicii, with its 
extensive piazzas and spacious halls, render it a delight- 
ful retreat during the oppressive heat of summer. 

Aldridge's Boarding house, with which is connect- 
eed an extensive garden, at the west end of the vil- 
lage, affords excellent accommodations, and receives 
a handsome patronage. Its more retired location, and 
the profusion of rural scenery around it, as well as 



BALLSTON SPA. 161 

the deserved reputation of the estabUshment, will al- 
ways determine the choice of a portion of visitants dur- 
ing their transient residence at the Springs. 

The Mansion House, kept by Mr. Seaman, is loca- 
ted immediately east of the rail road bridge which cross- 
es the main street. It is one of the best pubhc houses 
in the country — is well furnished, and kept in a style 
highly creditable to its popular tenant. 

The Village Hotel, is in a convenient situation a 
few rods west of the Sans Souci. It is kept by the 
proprietor, Mr. Clark, and is in every respect an agree- 
able and pleasant boarding place. 

The Temperance Hotjse, by Mr. M'Omber, is 
located in the east part of the village, and is a com- 
modious and highly respectable estabhshment. 

Mrs. M'M aster's is a private boarding Kiuse, sit- 
uated adjacent to the spring on the flp* in the west 
part of the village. Those who ar'^ ^ond of a retired 
situation, will be much gratified-' this place, and with- 
al will find a hospitable ho="-ess, and very excellent ac- 
commodation^, at a p'^derate price. 

The r^^ce of board per week, at the several houses, 
is Com $3 to $8. 

Mails arrive and depart by way of the rail road, to 
and from Ballston Spa, every day in the week. Be- 
sides a post office at the village, there is one in the town 
of Ballston, about three miles distant, to which letters 
are frequently missent, owing to the neglect of corres- 
porKients in making the proper direction. 



162 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

The reading room and library may be resorted to at 
all times, and for a moderate compensation. Papers 
are there furnished from all parts of the Union. 

SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

Is situated north-easterly from Ballston SpaG^ miles, 
and 36i miles from the city of Albany. The village is 
located on an elevated spot of ground, surrounded by a 
productive level country, and enjoys, if not the advan- 
tage of prospect, at least the advantage of a salubrious 
air and climate, contributing much to the health and 
benefit of its numerous visitants. The springs, so just- 
ly celebrated for their medicinal virtues, are situated on 
the margin of a vale, bordering the village on the east, 
and are a continuation of a chain of springs discovering 
themselves about 12 miles to the south, in the town of 
Ballston, and extending easterly in the form of a cres- 
cent, to tlrt Q,uaker village. In the immediate vicinity 
arc 10 or 12 swings, the principal of which are the Con- 
gress, the Hamiiiv^,, the High Rock, the Columbi- 
an, the Flat Rock, the "frashington and the President. 
About a mile east, are found t-^uster of mineral springs 
which go by the name of the Ten fepringb. 

THE CONGRESS SPRING 

Is situated at the south end of the village, and is 
ovv^ned by Doct. John Clarke; to whose liberality the 
public are miach indebted for the recent improvements 
that have been made in the grounds adjoining the 
fountain, for the purity in which its waters are presen'- 



SAllATOGA SPRINGS. 163 

ed, and for an elegant colonade erected over the spring, 
affording a convenient promenade to visitants. 

The spring was first discovered in the summer of 
1792, issuing from a crevice in the rock, a few feetfrom 
its present location. Here it flowed for a number of 
years, until an attempt to improve the surface around it 
produced an accidental obstruction of its waters, which 
afterwards made their apperance at the place where 
they now flow. It is enclosed by a tube sunk mto the 
earth to the distance of 12 or 14 feet, which secures it 
from the water of a stream, adjoining which it is situ- 
ated. 

From an analysis made by Doct. Steel, it appears 
that a gallon of the water contains the following sub- 
stances : chloride' of sodium, 385 grs. ; hydriodate of 
soda, 3^ grs.; bicarbonate of soda, nearly 9 grs.; bi- 
carbonate of magnesia, nearly 96 grs. ; carbonate of 
lime, a little more than 98 grs.; carbonate of iron, up- 
wards of 5 grs. ; silix, 1 -1- grs. ; carbonic acid gas, 311 
cubic inches ; atmospheric air, 7 do. 

To this spring perhaps more than any other spot on 
the globe, are seen repairing in the summer mornings, 
before breakfast, persons of almost every grade and 
condition, from the most exalted to the most abject. 
The beautiful and the deformed — the rich and the 
poor — the devotee of pleasure and the invalid — all con- 
gregate here for purposes as various as are their situ- 
ations in life. To one fond of witnessing the great di- 
versity in the human character, this place affords an am- 
ple field for observation. So well, indeed, has it been 
improved by the little urchins who dip water at thefoun- 



164 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

tain, that an imposing exterior is sure to procure for its 
possessor their services ; while individuals less richly 
ftttired, and whose physiognomy indicate a less liberal 
disposition, are often compelled to wait till it is more 
convenient to attend to their wants. 

Most persons soon become fond of the water ; but 
the effect on those who taste it for the first time is fre- 
quently unpleasant. To such, the other fountains are 
generally more palatable, having a less saline tase than 
the Congress. 

The High Rock is situated on the west side of tha 
Valley, skirting the east side of the village, about half a 
mile north of the Congress. The rock enclosing this 
spring is in the shape of a cone, 9 feet in diameter at its 
base, and 5 feet in height. It seems to have been 
formed by a concretion of particles thrown up by the 
water, which formerly flowed over its summit through 
an aperture of about 12 inches diameter, regularly di- 
verging from the top of the cone to its base. This spring 
was visited in the year 1767 by Sir William Johnson, 
but was known long before by the Indians, who were 
first led to it, either by accident or by the frequent 
haunts of beasts, attracted thither by the saline proper- 
ties of the water. A building was erected near the spot 
previous to the revolutionary war ; afterwards abandon- 
ed, and again resumed ; since which the usefulness of 
the water has, from time to time, occasioned frequent 
settlements within its vicinity. 

The water now rises within 2 feetof the summit, and 
a common notion prevails that it has found a passage 
through a fissure of the rock occasioned by the fall of a 
tree; since which event it has ceased to flow over its 



SARATOGA SP^IINGS. 165 

brink. This opinion, however, may be doubted. It is 
probable that the decay of the rock, which commenced 
its formation on the natural surface of the earth, may 
have yielded to the constant motion of the water, and at 
length opened a passage between its decayed base and 
the loose earth on which it was formed. This idea 
is strengthened from tlie external appearance of the 
rock at its eastern base, which has already been pene- 
trated by the implements of curiosity a number of 
inches. 

Between the Red spring in the upper village, and the 
Washington in the south part of the lower village, are 
situated most of the other mineral springs in which this 
place abounds. At three of the principal springs, the 
Hamilton, Monroe and Washington, large and conve- 
nient bathing houses have been erected, which are the 
constant resort for pleasure as well as health, during 
the warm season. 

The mineral waters both at Ballston and Saratoga 
are supposed to be the product of the same great laba- 
ratory, and they all possess nearly the same properties, 
varying only as to (he quantity of the different aE;ticIe9 
held in solution. They are denominated acidulous sa- 
line and acidulous chalybeate. Of the former are the 
Congress, (which holds the first rank,) the Hamilton, 
High Rock and President, at Saratoga ; and of the lat- 
ter are the Columbian, Flat Rock and Washington, at 
Saratoga, and the Old Spring and San Souci, at Balls- 
ton. The waters contain muriate of soda, hydriodate 
of soda, carbonate of soda, carbonate of lime, carbonate 
of magnesia, oxide of iron, and some of them a minute 
.<j«antitj -of silica and alumina. Large quantities of 



166 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

carbonic acid gas are also contained in the waters, giv- 
ing to them a sparkling and lively appearance. The 
Congress, in particular, the moment it is dipped, con- 
tains nearly one half more than its bulk of gas ; a 
quantity unprecedented in any natural waters else- 
where discovered. 

Doct. Steel, in his geological report of the county of 
Saratoga, published a few years since, remarks, that 
" the temperature of the water in all these wells is 
about the same, ranging from 48 to 52 degress on Far- 
enhtiVs scale; and they suffer no sensible alteration 
from any variation in the temperature of the atmos- 
phere ; neither do the variations of the seasons appear 
to have much effect on the quantity of water produced. 
" The waters are remarkably limpid, and when first 
dipped sparkle with all the life of good champaigne. 
The saline waters bear bottling very well, particularly 
the Congress, immense quantities of which are put up 
in tliis way, and transported to various parts of the 
world ; not, however, without a considerable loss of its 
gaseous property, which renders its taste much more in- 
sipid than when drank at the well. The chalybeate wa- 
ter is likewise put up in bottels for transportation, but a 
very trifling loss of its gas produces an immediate pre- 
cipitation of its iron ; and hence this water, when it has 
been bottled for some time, frequently becomes turbid, 
and finally loses every trace of iron ; this substance fix- 
ing itself to the walls of the bottle. 

" The most prominent and perceptible effects :of 
these waters, when taken into the stomach, are catkar- 
tic, diureiic and tonic. Thoy are much used in a great 



feARATOGA SPRINGS. 167 

ariety of complaints ; but the diseases in which they 
are most efficacious are jaundice and bilUous affections 
generally, dyspepsia, habitual costiveness, hypochon- 
drical complaints, depraved appetite, calculous and en- 
phritic complaints, phagedenic or ill-conditioned ulcers, 
cutaneous eruptions, chronic rheumatism, some species 
or states of gout, some species of dropsy, scrofula, par- 
alysis, scorbutic affections and old scorbutic ulcers, 
amenorrhea, dysmenorrhea and clorosis. In phthisis, 
and indeed all other pulmonary affections arising from 
primary diseases of the lungs, the waters are manifest- 
ly injurious, and evidently tvond to increase the violence 
of the disease. 

" Much interest has been excited on the subject of 
the source of these singular waters ; but no researches 
have as yet unfolded the mystery. The large propor- 
tion of common salt found among their constituent 
properties may be accounted for without much difficul- 
ty — all the salt springs of Europe, as well as those of 
America, being found in geological situations exactly 
corresponding to these ; but the production of the unex- 
ampled quantity of carbonic acid gas, the medium 
through which the other articles are held in solution, is 
yet, and probably will remain a subject of mere specu- 
lation. The low and regular temperature of the water 
seems to forbid the idea that it is the effect of subterra- 
nean heat, as many have supposed, and the total absence 
of any mineral acid, excepting the muriatic, which is 
combined with soda, does away the possibility of its be- 

o2 



168 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

ing the effect of any combination of that kind. Its pro- 
duction is therefore truly unaccountable."* 

In addition to the springs already enumerated, a val- 
uable SULPHUR SPRING was discovcrcd a fcw ycars since 
in the vicinity of the Hamilton Spring, in the rear of the 
Congress Hall. It rises from a depth of about twenty 
feet, in a tube of about 4 feet in diameter, and affords an 
ample supply of water for the bathing establishment 
with which it is connected. It has already proved high- 
ly efficacious in many cases of salt rheum, scrofula and 



* An analysis of the waters of this place and at Ball- 
ston Spa was made and published by Doct. Steel, some 
years since, and has received the sanction of the most 
scientific men in this country and in Europe ; since 
which he has prepared and published an entire new 
work, embracing not only an analysis of the various 
springs and directions for their use in the numerous dis- 
eases in which they have proved beneficial, but also a 
full and interesting history of their discovery, and of the 
rise and progress of the villages in which they are loca- 
ted. The literary attainments of Doct. S. and his great 
experience from a long residence at this place, have en- 
abled him to render this work far superior to any thing 
of the kind which has appeared. It ought also to be 
remarked, that no invalid should attempt the use of 
these waters without the direction of a physician well 
acquainted with their properties. A contrary course, 
under the too prevalent and erroneous impression that 
they may be drank in all complaints, in any quantity, 
and at all hours of the day, has been attended in many 
instances with deleterious and sometimes with fatal 
consequences. There can be no doubt of their great 
efficacy in most complaints, when properly used ; yet 
ill-timed and too copious draughts not only fail of re- 
moving complaints, but frequently engender them. 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. 169 

other cutaneous eruptions ; and were it generally 
known, would undoubtedly be resorted to more fre- 
quently by persons afflicted with these complaints. 

The boarding establishments of the first class at Sar- 
atoga Springs are the Congress Hall and Union Hall 
at the south end of the village, the Pavilion at the north, 
and the United States Hotel in a central situation be- 
tween them. Besides these, there are a number of oth- 
er boarding houses on a less extensive scale, the most 
noted of which are Montgomery Hall and the York 
House in the south part, and the Columbian Hotel and 
Washington Hall, in the north part of the village ; Pros- 
pect Hall, also kept by by Mr. Benjamin R. Putnam, is 
beautifully located about one mile north west of the vil- 
lage, and is a very respectable establishment. 

The Congress Hall, kept by Messrs. J. & J. R. 
Westcot, is situated within a few rods of the Congress 
spring, to which a handsome walk shaded with trees, 
has been constructed for the convenience of guests. 
The space in front of the building is occupied by three 
apartments, each of which is enclosed by a railing, ter- 
minating at the front entrances of the piazza, and each 
used as a flower garden. The edifice is 200 feet in 
length, 3 stories high, besides an attic, and has two 
wings extending back, one 60, and the other about 100 
feet. In front of the hall is a spacious piazza, extend- 
ing the whole length of the building, 20 feet in width, 
with a canopy from the roof, supported by 17 massy 
columns, each of which is gracefully entwined -with 
woodbine. There is also a back piazza, which opens 
upon a beautiful garden annexed to the establishment, 



170 SARATOGA SPRINGS* 

and a small grove of pines, affording both fragrance and 
shade to their loitering guests. The Congress Hall 
can accommodate from 250 to 300 visitants, and is just- 
ly ranked among che most elegant establishments in 
the union. 

The United States Hotel, kept by Mr. James M. 
Marvin, with its gardens and out buildings, occupies a 
space in the centre of the village of about five acres. 
The main building is composed of brick, 125 feet long 
and 34 wide. It is four stories high, and has a wing 
extending west 60 feet, three stories high. A building 
34 by 60, appropriated to drawing and lodging rooms, 
has also been added on the south, and is connected with 
the main edifice by broad piazzas in front and rear, ex- 
tending the whole length of both buildings. The ground 
in the rear and south of the hotel is handsomely laid 
out into walks, terminating on the west in a garden be- 
longing to the establishment, and the whole is tasteful- 
ly ornamented with trees and shrubbery. The front of 
the edifice is enclosed by a delicate circular railing mto 
3 apartments, each containing a choice variety of flowers 
and shrubs, and shaded by a row of forest trees extend- 
ing the whole length of the building. The hotel is sit- 
uated equally distant between the Congress and Flat 
Rock springs, and commands a view of the whole vil- 
lage, and from its fourth story a distinct view is had of 
the surrounding country for a number of miles. This 
establishment can accommodate nearly 250 visitants, 
and is one of the largest and most splendid edifices in 
the United States. 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. 171 

The Pavilion kept by Messrs. Ford and Warren, is 
situated in a pleasant part of the village, immediately 
in front of the Flat Rock spring. The building is con- 
structed ofwood,fl36 feet in length, with awing ex- 
tending back from the centre of the main building, 80 
feet, and another, (which has been recently added) ex- 
tending along Church street, of 200 feet, affording nu- 
merous private parlours, communicating with lodging 
rooms, for the convenience of families. The main 
building is 2 1-2 stories high, with the addition of an 
attic, which, with the handsome portico in front, sus- 
tained by delicate colonades, renders it, in beauty and 
proportion, one of the finest models of architecture this 
country can produce. The large rooms of the Pavilion 
are so constructed that by means of folding doors the 
whole of the lower apartments may be thrown into 
one — an advantage which gives much additional inter- 
est to the promenade and cotillion parties, which fre- 
quently assemble on this extensive area. A large gar- 
den, to which is added a fish pond, is connected with 
the estabhshment. The Pavilion is calculated for the 
accommodation of about 250 visitants. 

The Union Hall is one of the earliest and most re- 
spectable establishments in the vicinity, and is situated 
directly opposite the Congress Hall. It has, within 
a few years, been much improved in its appearance, 
and enlarged by considerable additions to the main 
building. It now presents an elegant front, 120 feet 
in length, 3 stories high, wdth two wings extending 
west 60 feet. It is ornamented in front by 10 columns, 
which rise to nearly the height of the building, and sup- 



172 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

port the roof of a spacious piazza. A garden in the 
rear of the building, together with a beautiful flower 
garden on the north opening to the main street, are 
among the varieties which contribvite to the pleasant- 
ness of the establishment. It is now kept by Mr. W. 
Putnam, a son of the original proprietor, and ranks in 
point of elegance and respectability with the most fa- 
vored establishments in the vicinity. 

The Columbian Hotel, stands a few yards south of 
the Pavilion. Annexed to the establishment is a hand- 
some garden, lying on three sides of the building, which 
adds much to the beauty and advantage it enjoys in 
point of natural location. The well known reputation 
of this establishment, as well as its pleasant situation, 
in the vicinity of one of the principal fountains, will al- 
ways ensure it a full share of patronage. 

The Wasiiingtox Hall, owned and kept by Jvlr. I. 
Taylor, is beautifully located at the north part of the 
village ; and is patronized by strangers who do not 
wish to mingle in the pleasures of the larger establish- 
ments. 

The price of board per week at the respective houses, 
is from $3 to $10. 

The Readixg Rooms. There is in the village a print- 
ing office and bookstore, with which is connected a 
reading room, a mineralogical room and a library, un- 
der the superintendance of the same proprietor. These 
rooms, a k\v doors north of the U. S. Hotel, are con- 
tained in the same building with the library and book- 
store, but have their separate apartments. That ap- 
propriated for the reading room, is large and airy. It 
is ornamented with a variety of maps and charts, and 



SARATOGA SPRIJfG3. 17S 

IS furnished by the daily mails with about 100 papers, 
from different parts of the United States and from the 
Canadas, besides several periodical publications. The 
mineralogical apartment is on the second story, to 
which stairs lead from the reading room. This apart- 
ment contains specimens of all the minerals discovered 
in this vicinity, together with a variety from different 
parts of the union, and from Europe. They are very 
handsomely arranged in glass cases, have been much 
augmented of late by Dr. J. H. Steel, of this place, to 
whom the proprietor is principally indebted for their 
collection and arrangement. An apartment adjoining 
the reading room, contains a library of about 2000 vol- 
umes, which are well selected, and receive constant 
additions from the most fashionable productions of the 
day. There is also kept at the rooms a register of 
the names of visitants at the Springs, their residence 
and places of board. The names thus entered fre- 
quently number from 6 to 8000 in the course of the 
season. 

These rooms afford a pleasant retreat from the noise 
and bustle of the boarding establishments, and are 
much frequented by ladies and gentlemen of taste and 
fashion. The terms are reasonable and are scarcely 
an equivalent, considering the extent and usefulness of 
the institution. 

The mail arrives at the Springs every day by the rail 
Toad, in from 16 to 18 hours from New-York, and 
leaves every morning at 9 for Albany, intersecting with 
the Boston mail at that place. Strangers should be ap- 
prized that a post office is established in the town of 
Saratoga, about 12 miles distant, to which letters in- 



174 SARATOGA LAKE. 

tended for the Springs are often missent, in conse- 
quence of their mis-direction. 

At both the villages of Ballston and Saratoga Springs, 
there are always sufficient objects of amusement to 
render the transient residence of their summer guests 
pleasant and agreeable. Those whose taste is not 
gratified at the billiard rooms, which are annexed to 
most of the boarding establishments, can always enjoy 
a mental recreation at the reading rooms ; a ride on the 
rail road, carriages for which leave both villages seve- 
ral times a day ; or a short excursion in the neighbor- 
hood, where sufficient beauty and novelty of scenery 
are always presented to render it interesting. The 
amusements of the day are usually crowned with a ball 
or promenade. The respective apartments appropri- 
ated for these occasions are calculated to accommodate 
from 150 to 200 guests ; but they often contain a much 
greater number. 

The spacious areas of the cotillion rooms are be- 
tween 80 and 90 feet in length, and when enlivened by 
the associated beauty and gaiety resorting to the 
springs, present a scene of novelty and fascination sel- 
dom equalled. 

About two miles east from Saratoga Springs there is 
also a small fish pond, situated on the farm of a Mr. 
Barhyte. Parties often resort thither, as well to enjoy 
the amusements of fishing as to partake of a repast on 
trout, the proprietor reserving to himself the exclusive 
privilege of serving them up. Still farther east, about 
four miles from the Springs, is situated 

Saratoga Lake. This lake is 9 miles long and 3 
broad. A resort is constantly kept up at Green's and 



BEMUS' HEIGHTS. 175 

at Riley's, on the western margin of the lake, the for- 
mer about four and the latter about six miles distant 
from Saratoga Springs, and the same distance from 
Ballston Spa. The visitants at both villages frequently 
resort thither, to enjoy the advantages of air and pros- 
pect during the montlis of July and August, Sail boats 
are here fitted up for the accommodation of parties of 
pleasui-e, and implements for fishing are always in 
readiness for those who take pleasure in this fashiona- 
ble diversion. The western shores of this lake are ac- 
cessible but in a few places, in consequence of the ad- 
jacent marshes ; on the east side the land is more ele- 
vated, and presents a fine prospect of farms under good 
improvement. Besides a variety of excellent fish, con- 
siderable wild game is found on the lake and marshes 
and along its borders. This lake is supplied with wa- 
ter from the Kayaderosseras creek, which, taking its 
rise about 20 miles in a northwest direction, and receiv- 
ing in its course a number of tributary streams, flows 
into the lake on the west side. Fish creek forms its 
outlet, through which the waters of the lake are com- 
municated to the Hudson river about 8 miles distant, 
in an easterly direction. This creek empties into the 
Hudson river at Schuyler- Ville, noticed at p. 178. 

Bemus' Heights, rendered memorable as the spot 
on which the British army under Gen. Burgoyne was 
defeated, in the revolutionary contest, are about 8 miles 
in a south-eastwardly direction from Green's on the 
Saratoga Lake. The battle ground is about two miles 
west of the Hudson river ; and though without much 
to attract in its location or surrounding scenery, will 
nevertheless at all times prove interestmg from its as- 



176 BEMUS* HEIGHTS. 

sociation with events which greatly contributed to the 
estabUshment of American independence. 

The two actions which preceded the surrender of the 
British army were fought on the 19th of September, 
1777, and on the 17th of October following. On the 
morning of the Sth, the American army marched into 
the British camp, which had been deserted the evening 
previous. The enemy continued to retreat till they had 
reached the height beyond the Fish creek, where they 
encamped on the 10th. Finding his retreat cut ofFby a 
party of troops, who had taken possession in his rear, 
and his advance impeded by superior numbers, General 
Burgoyne accepted the terms of capitulation, proposed 
by General Gates, and surrendered his whole army to 
the American forces, on the 17th October, 1777. The 
surrender took place at Fort Hardy, where the British 
stacked their arms, and were permitted to march out 
with the honors of war. This fortunate event was fol- 
lowed by a succession of brilliant achievements, and fi- 
nally led to the surrender of Lord Cornwallis, which 
terminated the struggle of the revolution, after a period 
of nearly 8 years from its commencement. 

Fp.eeman's Farm, on which the principal actions 
were fought, is immediately east of the m.ain road run- 
ning north and south, a road passing directly across it 
to the Hudson river in an eastwardly direction. In a 
meadow adjoining the first mentioned road, about ten 
rods south of a blacksmith's shop, and near the fence, 
is the spot where Gen. Frazer fell.* A large bass-wood 



* Gen. Frazer was second in command to Gen. 
Burgoyne, and died on the Sth of October, 1777, from 
wounds received in battle the day previous. 



BEMUS' HEIGHTS. l77 

iree marked the place for a time ; but having been cut 
down, several sprouts which have sprung up from the 
parent stock, now designate the spot. A few rods di- 
rectly south of this, on a shght eminence, is shown the 
place where Col. Cilley sat a-straddle of a brass twelve 
pounder, exulting in its capture; and about half a mile 
still farther south is shown the house, still standing, 
which was used by Gen. Gates as his head-quarters. 

In proceeding to the river, the hill on which General 
Frazer is buried is pointed out, about a mile and a half 
east af the battle ground, and 20 rods north of the road. 
His remains were deposited at his request, v/ithin a 
redoubt on the top of this hill. The redoubt, which is 
of an oblong form, from 100 to 150 feet in diameter, is 
still perfectly visible ; and the spot of Gen. Frazer's in- 
terment is near the centre. The British government, 
a few years since employed an agent to erect a monu- 
ment to his memory ; but proving faithless, he appro- 
priated the money with which he was entrusted to his 
own use, and returned without effecting the object of 
his mission, pretending his inability to discover the spot 
in question. It therefore continues undistinguished by 
a monument, or even a stone, to mark the place where 
repose the remains of this gallant warrior. 

Smith's House, in which General Frazer died, and 
which, at that time, stood near the foot of this hill, has 
been removed about 80 rods in a north-eastwardly di- 
rection to the turnpike. It is a low old fashioned 
Dutch building, with the gable end to the river, paint- 
ed yellow — the sides red, and shingle roof The en- 
trance is towards the river, under an old dilapida- 
ted portico — and the whole bears the marks of antiqui- 



178 PORT EDWARD. 

ty — the only addition to it being a small out house. 
The room in which Gen. Frazer died is directly in front, 
and has undergone no material change since that period. 
Eight miles north of this, on the turnpike, is the 
village of 

Schuyler- ViLLE, noted as the residence of the late 
Gen. Schuyler, and still more so as the place where 
Gen. Burgoyne surrendered to the American army in 
October, 1777. 

The ground on which the surrender took place, was 
in a vale nearly east, and in plain view of the stage 
house on the turnpike in Schuyler- Ville, and still ex- 
hibits the remains of an entrenchment called Fort Har- 
dy. About 40 rods in a south-east direction, at the 
mouth of Fish creek, is the scite of Fort Schuyler. 
The arms of the British were stacked in the vale in 
front of Fort Hardy, and from thence they were march- 
ed to the high grounds a little west of the village, and 
admitted to parol as prisoners of war. At the south- 
ern extremity of the vale is a basin for the northern ca- 
nal, which passes through this place. About half a 
mile south of the basin stands the house of Philip Schuy- 
ler, Esq. located near the spot where once stood the 
mansion of his grandfather, the intrepid Gen. Schuyler, 
which, with other buildings, were "burnt by the British 
army, on their retreat from the battle of the 7th. 

The village contains 80 or 90 houses, and an exten- 
sive cotton factory and machine shop, owned by Mr. 
Schuyler. 

Fort-Edward is 12 miles north of Schuyler- Ville. 
It is not on the usual route of travellers from the 



/J 



t^ORT EDWARD. 179 

Springs to Lake George ; but being a short distance 
only from Sandy-Hill, it may be easily visited. The 
fort, once situated whore the village now stands, has 
long since been demolished ; though its former loca- 
4;ion is easily traced in the mounds of earth which are 
still visible. About 100 rods north of the village is a 
<^dam across the Hudson river, 27 feet high and 900 feet 
long, supplying with water a feeder to the Northern 
canal. The cost of this dam was $30,000. There is 
also a permanent bridge across the river a short dis- 
tance below. 

One mile north of Fort-Edward, on the west side of 
the road, the traveller is shown a large pine tree, with 
a spring near its foot, memorable as the spot where 
Miss M'Crka was murdered by the Indians during the 
revolutionary war. She was betrothed to a Mr. Jones, an 
American refugee, who was in Burgoyne's army. Anx- 
ious for a union with his intended bride, he dispatched a 
party of Indians to escort her to the British camp. 
Against the remonstrance of her friends, she committed 
herself to the charge of these Indians. She was placed on 
horseback, and accompanied her guides to the spring 
in question, where they were met by another party sent 
on the same errand. An altercation ensued between 
. them as to the promised rew^ard, (which was a ban-el of 
rum,) and while thus engaged, they were attacked by 
the whites. At the close of the conflict, the unhappy 
young woman was found a short distance from the 
spring, tomahawked and scalped. There is a tradition 
that her scalp was divided by the respective parties, 
and carried to her agonized lover. He is said to have 
survived the shock but a short time ; and to have died 
p2 



180 SANDY UII.L — glen's FALLS. 

of a broken heart. The name of Miss M'Crea is in- 
scribod on the tree, with the date 1777. Her remains 
were disinterred a few years since, and deposited in 
the church-yard at Sandy Hill. 

Sandy Hill is two miles from Fort Edward, on the 
route from Saratoga Springs to Lake George. It is sit- 
uated on the margin of the Hudson river, immediately 
above Baker's Fails, about 18 miles from the Springs. 
A wooden bridge extends across the river at this place, 
from which the road leads up a precipitous ascent, on 
the summit of which the village is situated. The 
streets are laid out in the form of a triangle. In the 
centre is an open area, surrounded by handsomely con- 
structed stores and dwellings. The village contains 
upwards of 100 houses, and about 500 inhabitants. 
The courts of the county are held alternately here and 
at Salem. 

Glen's Falls, a village of about the same size of 
Sandy Hill, is 3 miles further up the Hudson river, on 
the direct route to Lake George. At this place are the 
celebrated falls from which the village takes its name. 
These are situated about | of a mile south of the vil- 
lage, near a permanent bridge, extending partly over 
the falls, and from which the best view of them may 
be had. The falls are formed by the waters of the 
Hudson, which flow in one sheet over the brink of the 
precipice, but are immediately divided by the rocks into 
three channels. The height of the falls is ascertained, 
by measurement, to be 63 feet ; though the water flows 
in an angular descent of 4 or 500 feel. Some rods be- 



glen'3 falls. iSi 

low the falls, is a long cave in the rocks, extending 
from one channel to the other. On its walls are in- 
scribed a variety of names of former guests, who have 
thought proper to pay this customary tribute. The 
rocks, which are at some seasons covered with water, 
but at others entirely dry, are chequered with small in- 
dentations, and in many places considerable chasms 
are formed, probably by pebbles kept in motion by the 
falling water. It is very evident that these falls, like 
those of Niagara, were once a considerable distance 
lower down the river— the banks below being compo- 
sed of shelving rocks, from 30 to 70 feet perpendicular 
height. On the north side of the river is a navigable 
feeder, communicating with the Champlain canal. It 
commences nearly two miles above the falls ; and with 
the exception of about a quarter of a mile, which ap- 
pears to have been cut out of a shelving rock, runs 
along a ravine east of Sandy-Hill ; and intersects the 
main canal some distance below.* 



* Jessup's Falls, which are about 10 miles above 
Glen's Falls on the Hudson, are worthy the attention 
of travellers. The whole scenery is highly romantic and 
picturesque, and the descent of the falls, which are 
perpendicular, and embrace the whole river m an en- 
tire sheet, is nearlv 100 feet. Five miles farther north 
a---e the Hadlet Falls, which are a succession of pitch- 
es over a rocky and uneven bed. The whole descent, 
commencing at the upper fall, is between 80 and 100 
feet. Overlhe lower fall a permanent bridge, about 50 
feet from the water, is erected. The river is here con- 
tracted to a very narrow space, withm lofty rocky em- 
bankments, between which the water rushes with great 
force and wildness into the basin below, uniting with 



182 tALDU'ELL, 

Conveyances from Sandy-Hill, via Glen's Falls, to 
Lake George, may at all times be procured, for the 
moderate fare of one dollar. From Glen's Falls to the 
Lake the distance is 9 miles over an indifferent road, 
affording little other variety than mountains and forests, 
vi^ith here and there a rustic hamlet. Within 3| 
miles of Lake George on the right hand, and a short 
distance from the road, is pointed out the rock, at the 
foot of which Col. Williams was massacred by the In- 
dians, during the French war. At the distance of half 
a mile fartlier, on the same side of the road, is the 
" Bloody Pond,'''' so called from its waters having been 
crimsoned with the blood of the slain who fell in its vi- 
cinity, during a severe engagement in 1755. It is said, 
that skulls are found in the neighborhood of this pond, 
and that numerous others may be taken from the bot- 
tom. Three miles farther is situated the village of 

Caldwell, on the south western margin of the lake. 
This village contains a number of neat little buildings, 
and about 300 inhabitants. The Lake George Coffee- 



the Sacondaga river, a largo and rapid stream, which 
rises about 60 miles at the north-west. Both of these 
rivers abound with trout and other fish, affording ample 
employment for those who are fond of angling. The 
country here is extremely rugged and mountainous, 
and presents but little appearance of cultivation. 

Travellers designing to visit these places, will find it 
the most convenient to take a carriage at Saratoga 
Springs, from which to Jessup's Falls is 14 miles, and 
to Hadley Falls 5 miles further. The route is over a 
good road, and, including a visit of two or three hours, 
may be easily performed (going and returning) in a day. 



LARE GEORGE, 183 

House is fitted up in good style, and can accommodate 
from 80 to 100 visitants. There are here, also, a post- 
office, a church, and a court house. The village is bor- 
dered on the east by a range of hills, to the highest of 
which, called Prospect Hill, a road has been made, and 
though difficult of ascent, the toil is richly compensated 
in the diversified and extensive prospect afibrded from 
its summit. 

LAKE GEORGE 

Is situated but a short day's ride from the village of 
Saratoga Springs, (27 miles,) from whence an excur- 
sion to the Lake is considered as a matter of course. 
Indeed, there are few places where a greater variety of 
inducements attract the stranger than at Lake George, 
Besides the interest which is excited from an associa- 
tion of many important historic events, this place is 
rendered peculiarly interesting from the unrivalled ex- 
hibition of the beautiful and romantic scenei-y present- 
ed by the lake and its environs. At the village of Cald- 
well the lake is about one mile in width, but it general- 
ly varies from | of a mile to 4 miles. The whole 
length is 36 miles. The waters are discharged into 
Lake Champlain, at Ticonderoga, by an outlet which, 
in the distance of 2 miles, falls 180 feet. 

Lake George is remarkable for the transparency of 
its waters. They are generally very deep, but at an 
ordinary depth the clean gravelly bottom is distinctly 
visible. The great variety of excellent fish which are 
caught here, renders it a favorite resort for those who 
are fond of angling. The salmon trout is caught in 



184 LAKE aEORGE. 

abundance, weighing from 12 to 20 pounds. The lake 
is interspsrsed with a great number of small islands, 
the principal of which, Diamond Island, once contain- 
ing a military fortification, and Tea Island, on which is 
a summer house erected for the amusement of parties 
of pleasure, are visible from the head of the lake. The 
whole number of islands is said to equal the number of 
days in the year. 

The scenery on the borders of the lake is generally 
mountainous. With the exception of some intervals, 
checkered with fruitful cultivation, the land recedes 
from the lake with a gentle acclivity, for a few rods, 
and then, with a bolder ascent, to an elevation of from 
500 to 1 500 feet. The best view of the lake and its 
environs is had from the southern extremity, near the 
remains of old Fort George,* from whence the prospect 
embraces the village of Caldwell and the numerous lit- 
tle islands rising from the calm bosom of the lake, 
whose waters are beautifully contrasted with the paral- 
lel ridges of craggy mountains, through an extent of 
nearly fourteen miles. Near the southern shore of the 
lake are the ruins of an old fortification, called 

Fort Yv'illiam Henry. Vestiges of the walls and 
out-works are still to be seen. Previous to its con- 
struction, the scite of the fort was occupied by the En- 
glish army under the command of Sir William John- 



* A very good prospect is also obtained from the top 
of the Lake George House ; but one far better from 
Prospect Hill, previously mentioned. 



LAKE GEORGIt. 1S5 

son, who was making preparations for an attack upon 
Crown Point. Before any movement was made by 
Sir William, the French army, under the command of 
Baron Dicskau, marched from Ticonderoga for Fort 
Edward, but afterwards changing his purpose, he was 
proceeding to the head of the lake, when he unexpect- 
edly fell in with a party of the English, who had been 
detached by Sir WiUiam for the rehef of Fort Edward. 
A severe battle ensued, in whicli the English were de- 
feated, and compelled hastily to retire from the field. 
They were pursued into their intrenchments by the 
French army, who commenced a furious assault upon 
the English camp, but were repulsed witli great slaugh- 
ter. The discomfitted Baron, on his retreat from this 
unsuccessful attack, was a third time engaged by a par- 
ty of English, who had been despatched by the garrison 
at Fort Edward, to succor Sir William Johnson, and 
totally defeated. These three several engagements 
took place on the same day, the 6th September, 1755, 
in the vicinity of Bloody Pond, into which the bodies of 
the slain were afterwards thrown. In 1757, Fort Wil- 
liam Heniy contained a garrison of 3,000 men, under 
the command of Col. Munroe. The Marquis de Mont- 
calm, after three attempts to besiege the fort in form, 
reinforced his army to about 10,000 men, and summon- 
ed Col. Munroe to surrender. This summons being 
refused, Montcalm, after a furious assault, obhged the 
English to capitulate. The terms of the capitulation 
though honorable to the English, were shamefully vio- 
lated by the Indians attached to the French army, who 
massacred the whole garrison, except a small remnant 
who made their escape to Fort Edward. The fort was 



186 LAKE GEORGE. 

razed to the ground by Montcalm, and was never after- 
wards rebuilt. This spot was the scene of embarkation 
of General Abercrombie, who, in 1758, descended the 
lake with an army of 15,000 men, for an attack on Ti- 
conderoga. About 80 rods farther south, on a com- 
manding eminence, are situated the vestiges of old 
Fort Cteorge. This fort, though not distinguished by 
any event of importance, yet in connexion with the his- 
tory of Lake George, imparts an interest which a stran- 
ger will readily embrace in a visit to its mouldering ru- 
ins. A part of the walls, which were originally built of 
stone, are still visible, from 30 to 40 feet in height. This 
fort was the depot for the stores of General Burgoyne, 
for some time during the revolutionary war. 

The steam-boat Mountaineer usually performs a daily 
trip on Lake George so as to intersect the boats running 
on Lake Champlain ; leaving Caldwell in the morning, 
and returning at evening. The length of the Lake, 
on which the boat runs, is 36 miles — fare $2. From 
the steam-boat landing to Ticonderoga is a distance 
of 3 miles ; for which a conveyance is provided, go- 
ing and returning, for 50 cents each way. Refresh- 
ments are provided at a tavern, half a mile from the 
landing, after which parties usually proceed to the 
Fort, and return to the tavern the same evening, from 
whence they may take the boat on its return the next 
day to Caldwell. 

The Passage op Lake George cannot fail to im- 
part a great degree of interest, even to the most indif- 
ferent observer. The Lake is interspersed with a great 
variety of islands, some of which are very small, but 
yet serve the purpose of diversifying the prospect. The 



LAKE GEORGE. 187 

smooth, green surface of the water is strikingly con- 
trasted with the bold and rugged shores of the Lake, 
which vary their distance from | of a mile to 4 miles 
in width, and occasionally rise to 1,500 feet in height. 
These circumstances added to the numerous historical 
associations which are continually suggested to the 
mind, and to the animation which a fair day and pros- 
perous passag-e are calculated to impart, serve to create 
impressions which must always be remembered with 
peculiar satisfaction. 

Ten miles from Caldwell, down the Lake, are a 
range of mountains possessed by a celebrated hun- 
ter of the name of Phelps, as a Deer Pasture. In 
the spring, when the vegetation of the previous year 
is sufficiently dry, he sets fire to the mountains. Sub- 
sequently, green and tender herbs spring forth, and in- 
duce droves of deer to resort thither in quest of food ; 
by which means the hunter succeeds in killing hun- 
dreds annually. On tVie opposite side of the lake, at 
a very considerable elevation, is the residence of a 
wealthy farmer of Bolton. Two miles further is 
Twelve Mile Island, being that distance from Cald- 
well, It is of a circular form, of about 20 acres, situat- 
ed in the centre of the lake, and is elevated 30 or 40 
i'eet above the water. From thence one mile, on the 
north-west side of the lake, is 

Tongue Mountain, with West Bay on its west side 
1 1 miles wide, and extending in a northerly direction 
6 miles. What are called the Narrows commence here, 
and continue for 6 or 7 miles, being | of a mile wide 



188 LAKE GEORGE. 

and very deep. A line 500 feet long has been used m 
sounding without reaching bottom. 

Black Mountain, 18 miles from the head of the 
Lake, is situated on the east side, and has been ascer- 
tained, by admeasurement, to be 2,200 feet in height. 
Opposite to Black Mountain, near the western shore, is 
Half Way Island. A short distance north of this 
is some of the finest mountain scenery on the conti- 
nent. The mountains exhibit an undulating appear- 
ance, are thickly studded with pines and firs, and in- 
terspersed with deep and almost impenetrable caverns, 
Sabbath-Day Point, 24 miles from Caldwell, is a 
projection of the main land into the Lake from the west 
side. It is a place on which the Enghsh troops land- 
ed on the Sabbath during the French war, and is the 
spot on which a sanguinary battle was fought with the 
Indians. The English, with no chance of retreat, were 
all killed. From thence, 3 miles, is a small island call- 
ed the Scotch Bonnet. Three miles further on the 
west shore of the lake, is a little hamlet called by the 
inhabitants the city of Hague, containing only two or 
three dwellings, and as many saw mills. The lake is 
here 4 miles wide, being its greatest width. From this , 
place to 
^ Roger's Slide is 3 miles. This is celebrated as 
the spot where Col. Rogers escaped from the Indians 
during the French war. The descent is an angle of 
about 25 degrees, over a tolerably smooth rock, 200 
feet in height. The Col. who had been a great foe to 
the Indians, was nearly surrounded by them on the top 
of the mountain, and found no other means of escape 
than to slide down this precipice. It being winter, and 



TlCONDEROGA. 189 

havins: snow shoes on his feet, he landed safely on the 
ice. The Indians afterwards saw him ; but supposing 
that no human being could have made the descent, and 
that he must, of course, be supernatural, they conclud- 
ed it not only useless, but dangerous to follow him. 

Anthony's Nose, so called from its singular shape, 
is a liigh rock, nearly opposite to Roger's Slide. The 
shores here are bold and contracted, and exhibit mas- 
sive rocks, which are from 50 to 100 feet in height. 
From thence to 

Prisoner's Island, is two miles, a spot where pris- 
oners were confined dixring the French war ; and di- 
rectly west of this is Lord Howe's Point, so called 
from being the place where Lord Howe landed imme- 
diately previous to the battle in which he was killed at 
Ticonderoga. He was a brother of the late Lord Howe, 
who commanded the British forces at Philadelpliia du- 
ring the revolutionary war. The water here, from a 
deep green, assumes a lighter color, owing to a clayey 
bottom. From thence to the outlet of the lake, which 
terminates the steam-boat passage, is one mile. Three 
miles further, over a circuitous and uneven road, in an 
easterly direction, is the fort and ruins of 

Ticonderoga. The point projects between the lake 
on one side, which here suddenly expands to the west, 
and the creek on the other side, which unites the v/aters 
of lakes George and Champlain. On the opposite side 
of the latter lake, in a south east direction, stands 
Mount Independence. Mount Defiance, 720 feet in 
height, is situated across the creek directly west of 
the Fort. This height was occupied by the artillery 
of General Burgoyno in 1777, when tho Americans 



190 TICONDEROCA. 

were compelled to evacuate Ticonderoga. The for- 
tress of Ticonderoga was first constructed by the 
French in 175G. The works appear to have been ve- 
ry strong, are elevated about 200 feet above the level 
of lake Champlain, and many of the walls are still 
standing. The magazine is nearly entire. It is 35 feet 
long, 15 feet wide, and 8 feet high, constructed under 
ground, of stone, and arched. A subterraneous pas- 
sage leads from the southwest corner of the works to 
the lake, 20 or 30 rods in length. Through this pas- 
sage Col. Ethan Allen passed when he took possession 
ofthefort"zn the name of the Great Jehovah, and the 
Continental Congress,''^ The remains of another forti- 
fication, built during the revolutionary war, are still 1?o 
be seen about 60 rods farther south on the point adjoin- 
ing the lake. The walls next to the lake are nearly GO 
feet in height. 

In 1758 Ticonderoga was attacked by General Aber- 
crombie, who was repulsed with the loss of 2,000 men. 
On the approach of Gen. Amherst, in 1759, it was quiet- 
ly abandoned by the French, as was also Crown Point. 
It continued in possession of the British until the year 
1775, when it was taken by Col. Allen. On evacuating 
the fort in 1777, Gen. St. Clair ordered a detachment 
to accompany the American stores and baggage to 
Whitehall, where they were pursued by Gen. Bur- 
goyne and from thence to Fort Ann. At the latter 
place a smart skirmish ensued between the two parties, 
in which the British sustained a considerable loss. The 
main army retired from Ticonderoga to Hubbardlon, 
where a party consisting of about 1,000 under CoL 



EXCURSION TO THE WEST. 



191 



Warner, were overtaken by the British advanced guard, 
and after a severe action abandoned the field to superior 
numbers. From thence they joined General Schiiyler 
at Fort Edward on the 12th July, 1777. 

From Ticonderoga, travellers may be conveyed across 
the lake to Larrabee's, in Shoreham, Vermont, a dis- 
tance of one mile, where those designing a tour to 
Montreal and Gluebec, may take passage in a Cham- 
plain steam-boat, for St. John's. The boat arrives at 
Larrabee's towards evening, and the passage from 
thence to Plattsburgh, with the exception of about 15 
miles to Crown Point, is generally in the night. At 
present the most usual arrangements of the tourist are, 
after visiting Lake George and Ticonderoga, to return 
to the Springs, and from thence to proceed by the rail 
road to Schenectady, where a post coach or packet boat 
can be taken three times a day for Niagara. 

EXCURSION TO THE WEST. 

Travellers who design to visit Niagara and i-eturn 
without proceeding down Lake Ontario to Montreal, 
will find an excursion the most pleasant and diversified 
by traveilingin stages and canal boats alternately. The 
stage route affords a better prospect of the populous 
parts o/ the country ; but is generally so far from the 
canal, that no opportunity is given of witnessing many 
of the thriving villages on its banks. It is therefore ad- 
visable so to arrange a tour that the most interesting 
parts of both routes may be seen in going and return- 
ing. To effect this, a packet boat may be taken at 
Schenectady at evening, which will pass Little Falls 



192 EXCURSION TO THE WEST. 

tlie next morning, affording the tourist an interesting 
view of the scenery and aqueduct at that place, and 
reach Utica in the afternoon. The next morning a 
stage can be taken for Rochester, via Auburn, reach- 
ing the former place at evening of the second day ; from 
whence a packet boat leaves every morning reaching 
Lockport at daylight the next morning. Here a stage 
may be taken for the Falls, 20 miles distant, or the pas- 
sage, by canal, continued to Buffalo. But a better 
method, undoubtedly, if the fatigue of land travelling 
should not prevent, is, to continue on the stage route 
from Utica direct to Buffalo, by way of Auburn, Gene- 
va, Canandaigua and Batavia ; and return by canal from 
Lockport to Utica, stopping at least a day at each of 
the thriving villages of Rochester and Syi-acuse ; where 
objects of sufficient attraction will be found to warrant 
even a protracted visit. 

That tourists may be the better enabled to gratify 
their taste as to the mode of travelling, we subjoin a 
sketch of the stage and canal routes, disconnected, pre- 
inising that a change from one to the other may be ea- 
sily effected at various points. 



4 



raOSi SARATOGA SPRINGS TO BUFFALO, 



192 



FROM SARATOGA SPRINGS TO BUFFALO. 



RAIL ROAD AND STAGE ROUTE. 



Distance from 



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Saratoga Springs, 

Ballsfon Spa, 

Schenectady, 

Amsterdam. 

Schoharie Creek, 

Caughnawaga, 

Palatine 

Fort Plain, 

East Canada Creek, , . . 

Little Falls,. ■ 

Herkimer, 

Frankfort, 

Utica, 

New Hartford, 

Manchester, 

Vernon, 

Oneida Castle, 

Lenox, , 

aualilyHill, 

Chitteningo, 

Manlius, 

Jamesville, . . . , , 

Onondaga Hollow, . . . , 
Onondaga Hill, .,,..., 

Marcellus,. . , , , 

Skaneateles, 

Auburn, ,,...,, 









21 


97 


H. 


Gh 


lU 


90^- 


14^ 


2U 





76 


IG 


37 


16 


60 


7 


44 


23 


53 


4 


48 


27 


49 


12 


60 


39 


37 


3 


63 


42 


34 


4 


67 


46 


30 


7 


74 


53 


23 


8 


82 


61 


15 


6 


88 


67 


9 


9 


97 


76 





4 


101 


SO 


4 


5 


106 


85 


.9 


8 


114 


93 


17 


5 


119 


98 


22 


3 


122 


101 


25 


3 


125 


104 


28 


5 


130 


109 


33 


8 


138 


117 


41 


6 


144 


123 


47 


4 


148 


127 


51 


3 


151 


130 


54 


8 


159 


138 


62 


6 


165 


144 


68 


7 


172 


151 


75 



172 

1651 

151 

135 

128 

124 

112 

109 

105 

98 

90 

84 

75 

7? 

66 

58 

53 

50 

47 

42 

34 

28 

24 

21 

13 

7 





300 

2931 

279 

263 

256 

252 

240 

237 

233 

226 

218 

212 

203 

199 

194 

186 

181 

178 

175 

170 

162 

156 

152 

149 

141 

135 

128 



194 FROM SARATOGA SPP.IXOS TO BUFFALO. 

Distance from 



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Cavui^a, 8 180 159 83 8 120 

Seneca Falls, 4 184 163 87 12 116 

Waterloo, 4 188 167 91 16 112 

Geneva, 7 195 174 98 23 105 

Canandaigua, 16 211 190 114 39 89 

East Bloornfield, 9 220 199 123 48 80 

West Bloomfield, 5 [225 204 128 53 75 

Lima, 4 1229 1208 132 57 71 

East Avon, 5 1234 |213 137 62 66 

Avon Post Office, 2 236 i2 1 5 139 64 64 

Caledonia, 8 244 |223 147 72 56 

Leroy, 6 250 1229 153 78 50 

Batavia, 10 260 l239 163 88 40 

Pembroke, 14 274 253 177 102 26 

Clarence, 8 282 261 185 110 18 

Williamsville, 8 290 209 193 118 10 

Buffalo,-... 10 |300 279 203 128 

A rail road carriage can be taken at Saratoga Springs 
three times a day lor Schenectady, the route, together 
with a description of the city, having been noticed in 
the preceding pages. At Schenectady stages are taken 
three times a d:iy for Utica, so that a passage from the 
Springs to the latter place can be effected in about 12 
hours. Fare, from $4 to 4,50. * 

* A rail road is now constructing between Schenec- 
tady and Utica. The line is along the north side and 
in full view of the Mohawk river for most of the distance, 
and when completed, will afibrd to the tourist one of 
the most interesting excursions on the continent. 



STATE ROUTE — CAUGHNAWAGA. 195 

Amsterdam, 16 miles west of Schenectady, is the 
lirst village of any magnitude that is reached on the 
route. It is located on the north side of the Mohawk 
river, over which there is a substantial brid,^e. The vil- 
lage contains about 100 houses, and is destined to be- 
come a place of considerable importance from its prox- 
imity to the river and the Erie canal, but more especial- 
ly so from the creek which passes through the village, 
and which, within half a mile, falls over a number'^of 
beautiful cascades, affording admirable facihties for 
manufacturing operations. The canal is on the south 
side of the river, and runs parallel therewith for several 
miles. 

About one mile from Amsterdam, on the south side 
of the turnpike, is a stone building, erected by Col. Guy 
Johnson, son-in-law of Sir William Johnson, which 
was occupied by the former previous to the revolution j 
and a little farther west, on the opposite side of the 
road, IS a stone building which was occupied by Sir 
John, the son of Sir Wilham. Four miles farther is 
Tripe Hill, a small village. From whence to 

Caughnawaga is 6 miles. It has little to render it 
a place of interest, if we except an antiquated stone 
church, which has been built between 60 and 70 years, 
without having undergone any material improvement 
or change during that period.* 

„. *.if «?*ST0WN, celebrated as the former residence of 
bir Wilham Johnson,is 4 miles north-east of this place, 
SooK^M^P'^^-, The village contains between 2 and 
300 buildmgs a bank, court house, jail, 3 churches, an 
acadea^y, and 2 printing offices. It is situated on a 



39€ TORT PLAIN. 

Twelve miles farther the stage stops at Palatine ; 
affording a beautiful prospect of the village of Canajo- 
HARiE, situated on the plain below, and on the banks of 
the canal. 

Fort Plai.v, a flourishing little village, is 3 miles 
west of Palatine, on the opposite side of the river. A 
fort, from v/hich the place derives its name, was con- 
stiTicted here during the revolutionary war ; though but 



handsome plain, with streets running at right angles ; 
and though many of the buildings are antiquated, yet 
there are several handsome private residences. The 
court house, jail and Episcopal church were built by- 
Sir William ; beneath the latter ofv»-hich his rem.ains 
now repose. In opening the vault a few years since, it 
was found to contain so much water that the coffin 
was actually floating on its surface. The lid, composed, 
of mahogany, was taken off, and still remains inside of 
the church. It bears this inscription, formed with brass 
nails : " Sir Wm Johnson Bt Obiit 1774." The house, 
or what is called the "Hall," formerly occupied by Sir 
"VV. is about a mile from the village. Attached to it is 
a building which was used by him as a fort ; into which 
he had occasion, at times, to retreat from the assaults 
of the Indians. The marks of tomahawks are still vis- 
ible on the stair-case in the main building. 

The battle of Johnstown, October, 178 1, in which 
the British and Indians were defeated, was fought on 
the " Hall" farm. The American troops, consisting of 
between 4 and 500, were commanded by the venerable 
Col. Willet, vv'ho lately died at New- York. After the 
defeat, the enemy were pursued by hinj to the Canada 
creek, where several were killedj including JNlaj. Butler. 
Out of 607 of the hostile force sent on this expedition., 
but 220 returned to Canada. 



LITTLE FALLS. 197 

little of its remains are now to be seen. The place was 
originally settled by Germans, who suffered severely 
from the early Indian wars of this country. During the 
revolution, those who had taken refuge in the fort, 
were surprised by Capt. Butler, on his return from burn- 
ing Chery Valley, and became a prey to similar atroci- 
ties. 

The East Canada Creek is passed by a substantial 
bridge, in going 4 miles farther ; from which to 

Little Falls, is 7 miles. This place takes its name 
from a cataract in the vicinity, which, in size, is much ^ 
inferior to the celebrated Cohoes, and has, therefore, 
been denominated the Little Falls of the Mohawk. A 
continuation of the chain of Catsbergs crosses the riv- 
er at this place, and forms a rough bed for the waters 
of the cataract, which pour over the rocky fragments 
in the wildest confusion. Approaching from the south- 
east, a loftly ridge of mountains, frowning in grandeur 
on either side, conceals the course of the river and the 
falls, whose vicinity is announced only by the distant 
din and foam of its waters. For a considerable dis- 
tance, a narrow pass only is allowed for a road, with 
immense natural battlements of rock on either side, af- 
fording a sublime and interesting spectacle. About 
half a mile from the village the road turns suddenly to 
the left, presenting a view of the falls tumbling with 
irresistible violence over a gradual rocky descent of 
about 80 rods. At the termination of the ascent is sit- 
uated the village, containing about 250 houses and 2000 
inhabitants. A cluster of buildings, rising between 



198 LITTLE FALLS. 

the rushing waters of the Mohawk on the one hand, 
and the rugged cliffs and eminences on the other ; the 
smooth current of the stream above gently gliding to 
the tumultuous scene below, and beyond the distant 
vale of the Mohawk, diversified with fields, orchards, 
meadows, and farm houses, all contribute to set off the 
romantic appearance for which this place is so justly 
celebrated. This village derives most of its importance 
from the facilities for trade and commerce aflforded by 
means of the Mohawk river and the Erie canal. Boats 
were formerly transported around the falls through 
a canal on the north side of the river. This old canal 
contained 8 locks and is now connected with the Erie 
canal on the south side of the river by means of an 
aqueduct 184 feet in length. The descent of the Erie 
canal here, in the distance of one mile, is 40 feet, which 
is passed by 5 locks. 

Travellers will ulways find it interesting to spend 
some time at this place, in viewing its great natural 
and artificial works. The Aqueduct across the river is 
one of the finest specimens of masonry on the whole 
line of the canal, though less stupendous than the locks 
at Lockport, and, in extent, falling considerably short 
of the aqueduct at Rochester. The river is passed on 
three beautiful arches of from 40 to 50 feet in height, 
with flagging on either side of the canal, and a strong 
iron railing. After crossing on the flagging, the stran- 
scr should return on the stone bridge west of the 
aqueduct ; which being several feet lower, affords a 
fine view of the arches, and of the extensive basin in 
the river immediately beneath the centre arch ; formed, 
doubtless, by the action of round stones set in motion 
by the water. 



STAGE ROUTE — LITTLE FALLS. 199 

The Erie canal, which is on the south side of the 
river, winds its way for some distance along the side of 
a bold and lofty mountain, the channel resting on a 
wall nearly 30 feet high, constructed from the bed of 
the river at great expense. The view afforded from a 
packet boat of mountain scenery on either side, with a 
bare passage for the dashing waters of the Mohawk 
between, is highly interesting and sublime. Whichev- 
er way the eye is turned, it rests on huge, masses of 
granite and limestone, piled in heaps. These rocks in 
some places rise to a great height, almost perpendicu- 
lar, presenting a bleak dark surface, unbleached by the 
thousand storms which have beat upon them ; others 
present a rugged and uneven face, crowned and over- 
hung by dark evergreens, dropping their verdure into 
the foaming torrent below ; the fissures between others 
of these huge piles produce hickory, maple and other 
trees, which hang from them, and with their sombre 
shadow deepen the gloomy darkness of the rocks from 
which they spring ; whilst the scanty soil upon others 
gives life and penurious nourishment to dwarf oaks and 
vegetation peculiar to similar inhospitable regions. In 
this scene, where the rude but magnificent works of 
nature are so profusely displayed, the imagination is 
overpowered, in their sublimity, and the proudest works 
of man, and man himself, lose their importance. Even 
the canal, cut upon the mighty and enduring precipice 
— the road entrenched upon the mountain side, and the 
substantial locks and gates, all sink into comparative 
insignificance under the mighty shadows of the ever- 
lasting hills. 

K 



200 STAGE ROUTE — LITTLE FALLS. 

Crystals of quarts, the most translucent, it is believ- 
ed, of any heretofore discovered in the state, are found 
in considerable quantities a short distance from the 
village.* 

The road, after leaving Little FallS; follows the bank 
of the river, in full view of the rich alluvial vale called 
the Herkimer ami German Flats. This region, now 
glowing in all the beauty of successful cultivation, was 
once the theatre of the most sanguinary warfare. Du- 



=^ About 10 miles SE. of this place, on the ravine of 
a small stream, which empties into the Osquake creek, 
are some of the most interesting specimens of petrifac- 
tions ever discovered in the country. They consist of 
a mass from 20 to 25 feet long, and from 3 to 5 feet in 
diameter, composed partly of petrifactions and partly of 
incrustations. The loAver part exhibits the trunk of a 
hemlock tree, 2 feet in diameter, while the other parts 
seem to have been formed of fragments of the same 
kind of tree. The transition from wood to tufa has 
been effected with so much precision, that the whole 
ligneous structure of the wood, its concentric layers, 
coating, or rings, gum, knots, kc. are m.ost perfectly 
preserved. From some unknown cause, the waters 
which issued out of the declivity above the mass have 
failed or been diverted, so that petrifaction has ceased 
at this spot. But in other parts of the declivity from 
which waters issue, they are so highly impregnated 
with calcareous and other matters as to incrust pieces 
of wood coming within their reach. Not far from this 
place, the road has been cut through a tufa rock of very 
large dimensions ; on the sides of which are seen pe- 
trified pieces of wood imbedded within the mass. When- 
ever time will permit, mineralogists will find it inter- 
esting to stop a day at Herkimer, for the purpose of 
vieiting these extraordinary formations. 



I 



^TAns ROUTE— UTICA. 201 

:mg the French and revolutionary wars, it was Ihe 
scene of many barbarous incursions of the whites as 
well as savages. It was invaded by the French after 
the capture of Fort Oswego in i7ijC, and in 1757 the 
settlements were desolated by fire and sword. In the 
centre of these flats is situated the village of 

Herkimer, 8 miles from Little Falls. This village, 
as well as that of Little Falls, forms :. part of the -town 
of Herkimer, which extends along the banks of the 
Mohawk about 15 miles. West Canada Creek enters 
the river about half a mile east of the village, and \a 
pa^3sed near its mouth by a well constructed bridge. 
The village is principally built on two parallel streets. 
It contains about 130 houses, and not less than 1000 
inhabitants. Between Herkimer and Utica is the 
small but thriving village of Frankfort, about 6 
miles from the former and 9 from the latter place. 
The country after leaving Herkimer is quite level, and 
remarkably fertile, though not in a high state of cultiva- 
tion. 

UTICA. 
This flourishing place stands on the south bank of 
the Mohawk river, 94 miles westwardly of Albany. It 
occupies the scite of old Fort Schuyler, where a gar- 
rison was kept previous to the revolution. Some re- 
mains of this fort are still to be seen between the east- 
ern extremity of Main street and the river. A few Ger- 
mans were settled here previous to the revolutionary 
war ; but a part were captured by the Indians and the 
iremnant sought a place of more security. The first 



202 STAGE ROUTE — UTICA, 

permanent settler established himself about 4 miles wesC 
of Fort Schuyler in 1784. Five years afterwards a few 
families established themselves on the scite of the pre- 
sent towm. In 1 798 a village charter was granted ; 
and in 1832, the place was incorporated into a city. 
In 1813, it contained 1700 inhabitants ; in I8l6, 2828 ; 
in 1820, 2972 ; in 1823, 4017 ; in 1826, 6040 ; in 1828, 
7460; and in 1830, 8323. The city is regularly laid 
out, the streets of good width, and mostly paved. Gen- 
esee street, in particular, is peculiarly pleasant, and for 
the most part adorned with elegant stores and dwel- 
lings. 

There are numerous literary, benevolent and reli- 
gious institutions in this place. Among these the Onei- 
da Institute of Science and Industry is perhaps most 
worthy of remark, from its uniting manual with men- 
tal labor on the part of the students. There is a farm 
attached to" it comprising one hundred and fourteen 
acres, upon which each student labors from three to 
four hours per day, and it is said that the experiment 
thus far has proved, that labor from 3 to 5 hours per day 
pays the board of the student in this plentiful region. 
It is principally intended for the education of those de- 
signed for the ministry, but its privileges are common 
to all youth of unexceptionable character. There are 
also a classical academy, a hbrary, a county and city 
lyceum, a gymnasium, two seminaries for young ladies, 
a seminary called the Clinton Institute, 14 churches, 
some of which are very elegant, 3 banks, 9 printing 
offices, and 12 newspapers and periodical publications. 

Hotels. — The principal hotels, which are in Gene- 
see street, are Bagg's, near the Mohawk river, one of 



StlGfi ROUTE — UTiCA. SOS 

tile best furnished and best kept houses in the state ; 
City Hotel, by H. Mason, south of the canal ; Canal 
Coffee House, by Mr. Shepherd, near the canal ; Frank- 
lin House, south of the canal ; National Hotel, by 
Messrs. Pratt & Sanger, north side of the canal ; Tem- 
perance House, do. do. These are all excellent estab- 
lishments, fitted up in a superior style, and are hberal- 
iy patronized. 

The lands adjoining Utica are richly cultivated, pre* 
senting a succession of beautiful farms and country 
scats. There are also various objects of attraction in 
the vicinity, a visit to which may be ranked among the 
pleasures of an excursion to the w^est. Of these are 
Trenton Falls, at the nortli ; and Whitesborough, the 
York Mills, Clinton Village containing Hamilton Col- 
lege, and Rome, all v/lthin a few miles in a westerly 
direction. 

From what is called tlie summit, an elevated spot 
near the village, a charming prospect may be had of 
the adjacent country, and particularly of the vale of 
the Mohawk for several miles in extent, including the 
beautiful and diversified farms which rise in a gentle 
acclivity from the river. 

Packets. — Three daily lines of packets run betweeft 
Utica and Schenectady. The first line leaves Utica at 
7k A. M. ; the second at 3 P. M. ; and the third at 7 
P. M. From 18 to 20 hours are occupied in the passage. 
Packet boats also leave for Rochester, 160 miles dis- 
tant, at half past one P. M. and at 4 P. M., going thro' 
in about 36 hours. The Buffalo packets leave at half 
past 1 P, M., and are three days on their passage. Tlie 
r2 



204 STAGE ROUTE — UTlCA. 

Utica and Oswego packets leave Ulica daily on the ar 
rival of the last boat from Schenectady in the afternoon. 
The Chitteningo and Syracuse packets leave Utica at 
6 P.M. 

Stages to the West.— The mail stage for Buffalo, 
203 miles, and Lewiston, leaves daily at 5 A. M. ; 
through in 3 days by day light only. 

The Telegraph, for Buffalo, leaves daily at 4 A. M. ; 
through in 33 to 36 hours ; limited to six passengers. 

The Eagle, for Rochester, 140 miles, leaves daily at 
10 A. M., or on the arrival of the packets from Sche- 
nectady ; through in 30 hours. 

The Pilot for Buffalo, leaves daily at 6 P. M. ; thro' 
in. 40 to 44 hours. 

Extra coaches, with regular relays of horses, are also 
furnished at all times for Niagara Falls, 220 miles, and 
for Trenton Falls, 15 miles. 

Stages to the East. — 'The Telegraph and Eclipse, 
limited to 6 passengers each, leave daily from 7 to 8 A. 
M., and arrive at Schenectad}^ 76 miles, in 12 hours. 

The Pilot, for Schenectady, leaves daily at 9 A. M. 
end arrives in time for the evening rail road car for Al- 
bany. 

The stage fare from Utica to Canandaigua, 114 
miles, is $3,50; from Utica to Rochester, 140 miles, 
from $4 to S;4,50 ; and from Utica to Buffalo, 203 mileb, 
§6,50. 

Among the excursions afforded to the traveller while 
at Utica, none, perhaps, will prove more interesting 
than a visit to 



treKton falls. tOS 

Trenton Falls, 15 miles north of the city. A de- 
scription of these falls has been obligingly furnished to 
the editor of this work by James Macaulet, Esq., au- 
thor of a History of the State ol New-York, (a work of 
much merit, recently published) from which the follow- 
ing extracts are made : 

" These renowned Falls are on West Canada creek, 
between 22 and 21 miles above its confluence with the 
Mohawk. The creek is a powerful stream, and con- 
stitutes almost one half of the river at the coalescence. 
The falls commence a little above the high bridge on 
the Black river road, and terminate at Conrad's mills, 
occupying an extent of rather over two miles, being 6 
in number, 

" The creek in its way from the summit of the high- 
lands of Black river to its lower valley, lying between 
the latter and Hassenclever mountain, crosses a ridge 
of limestone 4 or 5 miles in breadth, stretching through 
the country from the Mohawk to the St. Lawrence. 
Its course over this ridge by its tortuous bed is 6 or 7 
miles, 2^ of which are above the falls. The waters of 
the creek, soon after they have reached the limestone, 
move with accelerated strides over the naked rocks to 
the head of the upper fall, where they are precipitated 
18 or 20 feet down an abrupt ledge into a spacious ba- 
sin. The whole descent to the head of this fall in the 
last 2 miles is computed at 60 feet. Here a deep and 
winding ravine begins, which extends dovv^n the stream 
more than 2 miles. Its average depth is estimated at 
100 feet, and its average breadth at the top, 'iOO, The 
sides and bottom consist of limestone disposed in hori- 
zontal layers, varying in thickness from some inches to 



306 tiflEHTON FALLS, 

a foot and upwards, and abound with organic remains.^ 
The sides of the ravine are shelving, perpendicular and 
overhanging ; and some of the trees that have taken 
root in the fissures of the rocks are now pendant over 
the abyss, where they form the most fanciful appear- 
ances imaginable. The country along, and neighbor- 
ing the ravine, descends to the south and is mostly cov- 
ered with woods which exclude every appearance till 
you arrive at the very verge. Of the six falls, that 
above the high bridge on the Black river road, is called 
the Upper, and that at the end of the ravine, Conrad's 
Fall. The first in the ravine is a mile below the high 
bridge, and is denominated the Cascades ; the second, 
a little lower down, is called the Mill-dam ; the third, 
by way of eminence, are called the High Falls, and are 
40 rods below the preceding ; the fourth is nearly 70 
rods below the High Falls, and is called Sherman's. 
All these are formed by solid reefs of rocks which cross 
the bed of the stream. 

" The water at the Upper Fall descends 18 or 20 feet 
perpendicularly. Below, there is a capacious basin, 
out of which the stream issues in a diminished bed in- 
to the ravine, the entrance of which is between lofty 
barriers of rocks. This fall, when viewed from the 
bridge, or from the high ground west of the creek, has 
a fine appearance. 

" At the Cascades, consisting of 2 pitches, with in- 
tervening rapids, the water falls 18 feet. The bed of 
the stream is here contracted, and the sides serrated^ 
the banks of the ravine rising with abruptness almost 
directly in the rear. 

" The Mill-dam Fall, which is the second within the 



TRENTON FALLS. 207 

ravine, has an abrupt descent of 14 feet, the stream be- 
ing about 60 yards broad at the break. 

" The High Falls are 40 rods below the latter, and 
consist of 3 distinct falls, with intervening slopes and 
some small pitches. The first has a perpendicular de- 
scent of 48 feet; in floods and rises, the water covers 
the whole break and descends in one sheet ; but at 
other times, mostly in two grooves at the west side of 
the fall. The second has a descent of about 11 fe et 
the third 37 feet ; and the three, including the slopes 
and pitches, 109 feet. In freshets and floods, the en- 
tire bed at the High Falls is covered with water of a 
milk white color, and the spray which at such times 
ascends in pillars towards the sky, when acted upon 
by the rays of the sun, exhibits the rainbow in all its 
brilliant colors. 

"The fourth fall is Sherman's, and is distant nearly 
70 rods from the High Falls. The descent is 33 feet 
when the stream is low, and 37 when high. In droughts, 
the water pitches down at the west side. 

" The last fall is at Conrad's mills, at the very foot 
of the ravine, and is 6 feet. 

" Besides the falls, there are several raceways or 
chutes, from 10 to 20 rods long, through which the 
waters pass with great rapidity. The whole depres- 
sion of the stream from the top of the Upper Fall above 
the high bridge to the foot of Conrad's, is 312 feet; 
and if we add the descent above the Upper Fall, which 
is computed to be 60 feet, and that below Conrad's fall 
in half a mile, which is estimated at 15 feet, we shall 
find that the entire depression in less than 5 miles, is 
387 feet. 



'08 



TnEN'TOK Falls. 



"The falls, raceways and rapids, and, in truth, the 
whole bed witliiii the ravine, exhibit very different ap- 
pearances at different times. These are occasioned by 
the elevations and depressions of the stream. In floods, 
the whole is one tremendous rapid, with four cataracts 
and several chutes. 

" The best time to visit these falls is when the stream 
is low, because then there is no inconvenience or diffi- 
culty in ascending the ravine from the foot of Sher- 
man's stairway to the head of the upper raceway. 
Few persons who visit them have resolution to ascend 
the ravine from the stairway to the basin at the upper 
fall. This, however is not be wondered at, because 
the lofty rocky barriers which constitute the sides of 
the ravine advance to the water's edge in many places, 
and terminate in frightful projections, which cannot be 
passed without the most imminent danger. Some of 
these difficulties, however, have been obviated by blast- 
ing away portions of the rocks and putting up chains ; 
and persons now go up to the upper raceway without 
hazard. 

" The ravine, with some few exceptions, is still bor- 
dered by woods, and persons desirous of visiting the 
falls are obliged to go to what is called Sherman's 
.house, from whence they proceed through the woods 
by some rude paths. One of these leads to the stair- 
way, which descends to the bottom of the ravine, and 
another leads up to the High Falls. The former is us- 
ually preferred. On reaching the strand, at the foot ot 
the stairway, you proceed up the stream at first upon 
the strand, and then by a narrow winding foot path 
to Sherman's fall. From thence you advance to the 



TRENTON FALLS. 209 

High Falls, a part of the way being overhung by large 
jutting rocks which menace you Mith destruction. 
From the head of the High Falls to the upper end of 
the raceway above the Cascades, the way i& easy when 
the stream is low, but from thence upwardly it is diffi- 
cult and dangerous. 

■' While you are passing along the narrow and sinu- 
ous path leading by the projections, and by the brinks 
of headlong precipices, you tremble with reverential 
awe, when you consider that one false step might pre- 
cipitate you into the resistless torrent below, and in an 
instant consign you to a watery grave. You see what 
a feeble creature man is, and are forcibly impressed with 
ideas of the wisdom and power of that mighty Being 
who commanded the earth to emerge from the deep and 
the waters to flow. 

" Along the bottom ana lower parts of the ravine, 
numerous organic remains are found enveloped in the 
rocks which are easily divisible. The remains he flat 
in or between the larnince, their contours and compo- 
nent parts usually being little distorted from their orig- 
inal shape and dimensions. Sometimes there is defect 
occasioned in the transition from the animal to the 
stony or fossil state ; but, in most instances, all the 
parts are so completely defined, that not only the order 
but the genera and species may be recognized. These 
remains are casil}^ separated from the layers in which 
they are enclosed. Their exteriors are commonly glos- 
sy, often very smooth, and ordinarily of a dark color, 
being transformed into stone, and constituting integral 
parts of the rocks which envelope them. From a care- 



210 STAGE ROUTE — MANCHESTER. 

ful examination of certain of these remains, and their 
positions, we are led to beUve that their prototypes 
lived and died on the spot, and that the rocks in which 
they are entombed are of posterior formation." 

Accommodations for visitants are furnished at Sher- 
man's, the only house kept at the falls for that pur- 
pose. Ladies who resort thither, should be furnished 
with calfskin shoes or bootees. They not only owe 
it to their health to be thus provided, but the best pair 
of cloth shoes will be ruined by a single excursion over 
these rocks. 

Returning to Utica, the traveller, in pursuing a jour- 
ney to the west by stage, first reaches the pleasant 
village of 

New-Hartford, 4 miles from Utica, containing 
about 150 dwellings and stores, and three churches, be- 
sides a number of mills and manufactories, located on 
the Sadaquada creek. The land between Utica and 
New-Hartford is level and of an excellent quality, and 
resembles, with its neat and regular enclosures, an ex- 
tensive and highly cultivated garden. There are in the 
vicinity many country residences, constructed and im- 
proved with much taste and elegance. 

One mile from New-Hartford, a tolerably good view 
of Hamilton College, 3 or 4 miles distant at the S. W. 
is obtained; but on ascending a more elevated posi- 
tion one mile farther, the prospect of the college and 
several adjoining buildings, is very distinct and beau- 
tiful. 

Manchester is 5 miles from New-Hartford ; and 
the country between the two villages exhibits some of 



STAGE ROUTE — LENOX. 211 

the most highly cultivated and delightful farms in the 
state. 

Vernon, S miles from Manchester, is a flourishing 
town of some magnitude. It contains two churches, a 
number of mills and a glass factory. 

Oneida Castle, 5 miles from Vernon, is situated 
on the Oneida creek, within what was formerly the 
Oneida Reservation. Here was a considerable settle- 
ment, possessed by the Oneida and Tuscarora Indi- 
ans ; most of whom recently removed to the country 
west of the Michigan lake. This tribe entered the 
service of the state, as volunteers, during the late war. 

The lands in this reservation while possessed by the 
Indians were but indifferently cultivated, and assumed 
a miserable aspect in comparison with the rich and 
highly improved farms on either side. But they are 
now yielding to the culture of the whites, and will ulti- 
mately present a succession of beautiful and luxuriant 
farms. In passing over an elevated tract, a chain of 
lofty mountains is seen skirting the horizon as far as 
the eye can extend ; between which and the tract in 
question, are seen immense and apparently impenetra- 
ble forests. The prospect is sublime ; and will amply 
repay the traveller in stopping a short time to enjoy this 
rich and extensive scenery. 

Lenox, a small village, is Smiles from OneidaCastle. 
One mile farther the flourishing village of Canastota 
is seen about half a mile north of the turnpike on an 
extensive plain below, with the Erie canal passing 
through it. 

s 



212 STAGE ROUTE — CHITTENINGO, 

GluALiTT Hill, a neat little village on a pleasant em-' 
inence, is 3 miles from Lenox ; and 5 miles farther is 
the village of 

Chitteningo, situated on a creek of that name, and 
from which a feeder, 3^ mile long, is constructed to the 
canal. The village is bounded by very lofiy hills, and 
cannot be considered a happy location, except for man- 
ufacturing purposes. Gypsum is here found in great 
quantities ; also num'^rous petrifactions, specimens of 
w^hich are in most of the mineralogical cabinets in the 
Union. These petrifactions are near the village at the 
foot of a hill, and consist of the trunk of a tree and 
scattered fragments, the vv'oody structure of which in 
most cases, is remarkably perfect, and bearing a strong 
resemblance to the original. Various springs of wa- 
ter issue from the sides of the hill, wliich exhibit nu- 
merous incrustations (calcareous tufa) along its slope 
and in the vale below. To the properties of these wa- 
ters may be attributed the formation of these incrusta- 
tions and petrifactions. 

At Chitteningo, the road diverges, forming two prom- 
inent routes to Auburn ; one passing through the vil- 
lages of Manlius, Onondaga Hollow, Onondaga 
Hill, Marcellus and Skaneateles, and the other 
passing through the village of Syracuse, noticed in the 
canal route. The first mentioned route, though over 
a less even country, is the one generally preferred by 
travellers, as affording a more rich and diversified scene- 
ry of highly cultivated farms and flourishing villages. 
Four miles from Chitteningo, on the road to Manlius, is 
an eminence from which a beautiful prospect is obtain- 
ed of a part of Oneida Lake and a wide extent of hilly 



STAGE ROUTE — MARCELLU3. 21 S 

country beyond, Onondaga Lake, and the village of 
Onondaga Hill, 1 5 miles distant. Four miles farther is 
the flourishing village of 

Manlius, situated on the east side of Limestone 
creek, containing about 150 houses, 4 churches, 2 cot- 
ton factories, mills, &c. There are in the vicinity two 
considerable falls, the principal of which is 100 feet in 
height. 

Jamesville is 6 miles from Manlius. Green Pond 
in this vicinity is worthy of notice. The water is 200 
feet deep, and of a deep green color, emitting a strong 
smell of sulphur. The surface of the pond is between 
100 and 200 feet below the level of its shores, which 
are precipitous and rocky. Four miles farther is the 
village of 

Onondaga Hollow, extending 1 mile across a deep 
but beautiful valley, through which the Onondaga creek 
passes. The village contains an academy, church, &c. ; 
but its business has declined since the opening of the 
canal, and the springing up of the village of Syracuse, 
which is 4 miles distant. Three miles south of Onon- 
daga Hollow is a considerable settlement of Onondaga 
Indians, where once was held the grand councils of the 
Six Nations. 

Onondaga Hill, 2 miles farther, is pleasantly situa- 
ted on very high ground, with a commanding view of 
the country to the north and east for a considerable dis- 
tance, embracing within the prospect the Onondaga 
Lake and the villages of Syracuse, Salina and Liver- 
pool. 

Marcellus, 8 miles from Onondaga Hill, is a neat 
village of 70 or 80 houses, situated in the valley of the 



214 STAGE ROUTE — SKANEATELE9. 

Otisco creek. Two miles north are falls of some 60 or 
70 feet affording facilities for a variety of manufactories ; 
near which, water lime or cement is found in inexhausti- 
ble quantities. There is also lying on the bank of the 
creek at this place a petrified tree of large dimensions, 
partly covered with limestone. 

Skaneateles, 6 miles from Marcellus, is situated at 
the foot of the Skaneateles Lake, and is a beautiful 
thriving village, containing about 2000 inhabitants, 2 
churches and a flourisliing academy, a variety of man- 
ufactories, mills and many elegant private dwellings. 
It enjoys a commanding view of the lake for 6 or 8 
miles above and of the surrounding country, which ri- 
ses in a gentle acclivity from the water 100 feet or more 
in the course of a mile, presenting a range of neat white 
farm houses on the summit, and a slope of highly cul- 
tivated country towards the lake on each side. The 
lake, which is 16 rmles long and from half a mile to 
two miles in width, abounds with fine trout and other 
fish. The water is deep and remarkably pure, with a 
gravelly bottom and bold shores. The prospect from 
the lake is highly interesting, particularly towards its 
head, where the country rises abruptly several hundred 
feet, presenting a miniature picture of mountain scene- 
ry. Under these bluffs on the east side and on a level 
with the water are found large quantities of petrifactions, 
the cornu ammonite, imbedded in a stratum of slat€. 
Three miles north of the village the Skaneateles creek 
falls over abed of rocks, about 70 feet in a short dis- 
tance ; but in low water, the whole is lost or sinks 
among the rocks, and only a partof it again appears at 
a distance of half a mile below, presenting the novel 



StAGE ROUTiffi — AUBtRM. S15 

spectacle of a river much larger at its fountain than at 
its mouth. Seven miles from Skaneateles stands the 
flourishing village of 

Auburn. It is situated on the Owasco creeii, two 
"allies below its outlet from the lake ©f the same name, 
^4 miles from Onondaga, and 170 from Albany, This 
village owes much of its importance to the numerous 
mills and manufactories for which its location is ex- 
tremely eligible. It contains about 600 houses and 
6000 inhabitants. Among other public buildings there 
are six churches, an academy, museum, a court house 
and gaol, and a prison erected for convicts at the ex- 
pense of the state. There has also been established 
a theological seminary, which is patronized exclusively 
by the Presbyterian denomination, and is at present 
the only one of the kind in the state. Many circum- 
stances combine to render this place an agreeable resi" 
dence to the man of taste or business. The village is 
handsomely built, and increases annually in population 
and business. It is situated 7 miles from Weed's 
Port, on the canal, to which place stages run daily, for 
the accommodation of passengers wishing to take pack- 
et boats for the west or east — fare 50 cents. 

The principal public houses are the American Hotel, 
Western Exchange and Bank Coffee House. 

The State Prison, at Auburn, is considered one of 
the best in the Union. It was commenced in 1816, and 
is constructed upon the plan of a hollow square, en- 
closed by a wall 2000 feet in extent, being 500 feet on 
each side. The front of the prison, including the keep- 
er's dwelling, is about 300 feet, and the two wings ex- 
lending west, are 240 feet each. The north wing con- 
s2 



216 STAGE ROUTE — AUBURN. 

tains solitary cells and a hospital, and the south wing 
is divided principally into cells. Between the two 
wings is a grass plot with gravel walks ; to the west 
of which is the interior yard, covered with gravel, 
containing reservoirs of water, and surrounded with 
M^orkshops. These shops, besides the paint shop, 
form a continued range of 900 feet ; and are well light- 
ed by windows in the sides and from the roof. They 
are built of brick, and are well secured against fire. 
The outer walls, against which the shops are built, are 
35 feet high on the inside, and the other walls about 
20. They are four feet thick, and the walls of the pris- 
on 3 feet. The expense of the whole, without includ- 
ing the labor of the convicts employed, was above $300,- 
000. The prison being erected on the bank of the 
Owasco, water power is applied in many cases, to great 
advantage, in propelling machinery. 

The most interesting period for witnessing the pris- 
oners is early in the morning, from the time they are 
brought forth to labor till after breakfast. The spec- 
tator will then have an opportunity of seeing some of 
the prominent features of the order, regularity and 
system with which every thing is conducted. He will 
admire the precision with which the rul«s are execu- 
ted, without the least confusion, noise, or even com- 
mand. The convicts silently marching to and from 
their rest, meals and labor, at precise times, moving in 
separate corps, in single file, with a slow lock step, 
erect posture, keeping exact time, with their faces in- 
cUned towards their keepers, (that they may detect con- 
versation, of which none is ever permitted,) all give to 
the spectator somewhat similar feelings to those excited 



STAGE ROUTE — CAYUGA. 217 

?)y a military funeral ; and to the convicts, impressions 
not entirely dissimilar to those of culprits when march- 
ing to the gallows. The same silence, solemnity ajid 
order, in a good degree, pervades every business and 
"department. 

In addition to divine service in the chapel of the pris- 
on every Sabbath, a Sunday school has been establish- 
ed, superintended by the students of the theological 
seminary, which has been attended with very beneficial 
effects. 

So admirable has been the discipline of this prison 
that a large proportion of the convicts discharged have 
become honest, industrious men, and none are known 
to have become corrupted or made worse. 

Cayuga, 7 miles west of Auburn, is a small village ; 
but affords a beautiful prospect of the Cayuga Lake, 
and the bridge extending across, which is 1 mile and 
8 rods long, and situate within 2 miles of the outlet. 
This lake is 38 miles in length, and is generally from 
1 to 2 miles in breadth. The water is shallow, but 
of sufficient depth for a good sized steam-boat, which 
plies daily between the bridge and Ithaca, a beautiful 
and thriving village, at the head of the lake, 36 miles 
distant. Travellers designing to take an excursion on 
this lake to Ithaca, should pay for stage fare no farther 
tlian the Cayuga Bridge. From this point they can 
take the steam-boat at 1 o'clock P. M. which reaches Ith- 
aca in between 3 and 4 hours^ where the best of accom- 
modations will be found at one of the largest public hous- 
es in the state. Passing the night at Ithaca, the daily 
stage can be taken the next morning after breakfast for 
Bath, at the head of the Seneca Lake, distant about 22 



218 STAGE ROUTE GEJ^EVA. 

miles, which reaches the latter place in time for the 
steam-boat which leaves at noon for Geneva, noticed 
in a subsequent page ; and thus the tour of both lakes 
be performed, and a full view of their rich and variegat- 
ed scenery had in the short space of thirty hours. 

Seneca Falls, 4 miles west of Cayuga, is a flourish- 
ing village, located on the banks of the Seneca river, 
which here falls 46 feet, affording important manufac- 
turing facilities. The village has attained a very rapid 
growth within the last 3 or 4 years, and will probably 
soon rank among the most important towns in the 
western part of the state. For, in addition to its manu- 
facturing privileges, a canal extends to the Erie canal at 
Lakeport, 20 miles distant, which, connected with the 
river at the village, affords an uninterrupted w^ater com- 
munication from Geneva to the western lakes and the 
ocean. Four miles father is the handsome village of 

Waterloo, a half shire town in Seneca county. It 
contains about 200 houses, a court house, jail, and 2 
printing offices. The village is principally situate on 
the northern bank of the Seneca outlet ; which here 
propels several mills. The commencement of this vil- 
lage was in 1816 ; since which it has become a place of 
very considerable importance ; though it is probably 
destined to yield in magnitude and business to its rival 
village at Seneca Falls. From Waterloo to 

Geneva, 7 miles distant, the route is delightful, em- 
bracing (a part of the way) a charming ride around the 
north end of the Seneca Lake, which is here about 2 
miles wide. The village is one of the most elegant ia 



STAGE ROUTE — GENEVA. 219 

the state ; and, with its beautiful scenery, cannot fail 
of calling forth the admiration of every visitant. It is 
situate on the western margin of the lake, the bank of 
which being lofty, affords an enchanting view of one of 
the purest sheets of water in America. There are al- 
ready in this place about 600 buildings, many of which 
are very handsome ; and the population is rising of 
3000. Among the public buildings are a college, an 
academy, 7 churches and a bank. The college is lo- 
cated on an eminence south of the village, on the 
margin of the lake ; and though in its infancy, is 
handsomely patronized. It is in the vicinity of several 
country seats, enjoying an unusual richness of pros- 
pect, with an almost constant breeze from the lake ; 
which is about 35 miles long, and from 3 to 4 miles 
wide. It abounds with salmon trout and other fish, 
and is never closed with ice. A steam-boat runs daily 
from Geneva to Jeffersonville, at the head of the lake, 
leaving the former place at 7 A. M., and returning at 
evening ; and so greatly was it patronized in 1833, that 
another boat is to be placed on the lake the present sea- 
son, (1834.)* The Genesee turnpike leads through 



* A passage on the lake is peculiarly delightful and 
interesting. Leaving Geneva with its neat stores, and 
elegant dwellings, its luxuriant hanging gardens, and 
the glittering spires of its churches and college, the eye 
takes in a southern water view not surpassed in any 
part of this world of inland seas. The first village of 
any note on the eastern shore is Ovid, 18 miles from 
Geneva. The lofty eminence on which it stands, and 
the rich and highly cultivated farms in its vicinity, ren- 
der it a most conspicuous and interesting object, Di- 



220 STAGE ROUTE — GENEVA. 

Geneva, and the Erie canal passes about 12 miles to 
the north of it ; with which there is a water communi- 
cation, by means of the outlet of the Seneca lake and a 
lateral canal, noticed at p. 217. 



rectly opposite to Ovid is Dresden, one of the most 
thriving villages in Yates county. It is situated on the 
outlet of Crooked Lake, and extends nearly a mile back 
of the shore. Immediately south of Dresden, is the 
farm of the late celebrated Jemima Wilkinson, an en- 
thusiast, who pretended that she was the Saviour of 
mankind. Until her death, which took place somo 
years since, she had several follow^ers ; and this farm, 
which is very beautiful, has passed by will into the 
hands of one of them. Four miles south of Dresden is 
Long Point, remarkable for a tree at its extremity, 
vrhich, by a little aid from the imagination puts on the 
semblance of an Elephant. Six miles south of Long 
Point is Rapelyea's ferry, near which is still standing 
the frame which Jemima constructed to try the faith 
of her followers. Having approached within a few 
hundred yards of the lake shore, she alighted from an 
elegant carriage, and tiie road being strewed by her 
followers with white handkerchiefs, she walked to the 
platform, and having announced her intention of walk- 
ing across the lake on the water, she stepped ankle deep 
into the clear element, when suddenly pausing, she ad- 
dressed the multitude, inquiring whether or not they 
had faith that she could pass over, for if otherwise, she 
could not ; and on receiving an affirmative answer, re- 
turned to her carriage, declaring that as they believed 
in her power it was unnecessary to display it. Six 
miles and a half south of Rapelyea's ferry, is Starkie's 
Point, where the shore is so bold that the steam-boat 
passes within 10 feet of the extremity of the Point. 
Four miles further on the west shore is the Big Stream 
Point, at which there is a mill seat with a fall of 136 
feet. The land puts on a wilder aspect as the tourist 



STAGE ROUTE — CANANDAIGUA, 221 

Canandaigua 15 miles from Geneva, This vil- 
lage is situated near the outlet of the lake from which 
it takes its name, on a gentle ascent commanding a 
fine view of the lake at the distance of half a mile. 
The principal street extends 2 miles in length, and is 
handsomely decorated with trees, through which ap- 
pear the dehcately painted dwellings, ornamented with 
Venetian blinds. In an open square, in the centre of 
the village, is the court house and clerk's office of the 
county. The Episcopal church, situate on the main 
street, is one of the most elegantly constructed build- 
ings in the state. In the vicinity are a number of de- 
lightful villas, surrounded with smiling gardens and 
orchards of various kinds of fruit, which, with the view 
of the lake stretching far to the south, beautifully set 
off the scene of enchantment. In richness and variety 
of natural scenery, and the taste and elegance of its 
edifices, few villages can compare with Canandaigua. 
In point of trade and wealth, too, it is not exceeded by 
many villages in the state. A steam mill is here in op- 
eration, which annually furnishes a very large supply 



approaches the head of the lake, and the eminences are 
more beetling and precipitous. The eastern shore also 
partakes more of the mountainous character, though 
cultivated far up the summit lands, and is here and 
there marked by ravines, through one of which " Hec- 
tor Falls" tumble from a height of one hundred and 
fifty-feet, and carry several valuable mills. These falls 
are distant three miles from the village of Jeffersonville, 
at the head of the lake, which has recently sprung into 
existence, and which will soon become an important in- 
land town. 



822 STAGE ROUTE — CANANDAIGUA. 

of flour. On the lake, which is 14 miles long, and 
from one to two in breadth, a steam-boat performs a 
daily trip, which is rendered unusually interesting from 
the varied scenery whicli is presented. The village is 
situated 208 miles from Albany ; from Utica, 114 ; from 
Buffalo, 89 ; from Niagara Falls, 109. Principal pub- 
lic houses, Blossom's Hotel (one of the best in the wes- 
tern district) and Pitt's Eagle Tavern. 

Canandaigua was one of the first towns settled in 
what was formerly called the " Genesee covinlry." The 
entire tract, containing six millions of acres, was pur- 
chased of Massachusetts by Oliver Phelps and Nathan- 
iel Gorham, in 1787, for $1,000,000 ; and Phelps, then 
living at Gransvill, in that state, made preparations the 
spring following w'ith men and means to explore the 
country thus acquired. AVith great resolution and in- 
trepidity, he took leave of his family and his neighbors, 
together with the minister of the parish, who assem- 
bled on the occasion, and started on his expedition, 
leaving them all in tears, bidding him a final adieu, 
scarcely hoping for his return from a wilderness, in the 
Indian country, hardly yet pacified. 

He persevered and penetrated the forest from the 
German Flats to Canandaigua, a distance of 128 miles, 
by the present improved road — sent out runners, and 
collected the Sachems, Chiefs, and Warriors of the Six 
Nations, and in July, 1788, with the aid of the Rev. 
Samuel Kirtland, as State Commissioner and Indian 
Missionary, concluded a treaty of purchase of a tract 
containing 2| millions of acres. The Indians were dis- 
posed to confine Mr. Phelps to the Genesee river as his 
western boundary. He however proposed the erection 



STAGE ROUTE — CANAXDAHJUA. 223 

of mills at the falls of the river, (now Rochester) and 
obtained of them in the purchase what was termed a 
riiill yard, embracing a tract of 12 by 24 miles, extend- 
ing J 2 miles v/est of Rochester, and north to Lake On- 
tario. 

The kindness of Mr. Phelps, and the good faith 
always observed by him towards the Indians, induc- 
ed them to adopt him and his son as honorary mem- 
bers of their national councils. The leading chiefs 
coiicerned in these negotiations were Fannefs Broth- 
er and Red Jacket, the latter of whom died near Buf- 
falo in 1829. 

In 17S9, the lands thus purchased having been divi- 
ded into ranges, Phelps opened a land ofiice at Canan- 
daip-ua, the first established in America, where he 
continued to make sales until the year following, 
^^•hen the balance of the tract to which the Indian title 
had been extinguished, being 1,264,000 acres, was sold 
to Robert Monis, for eight pence lawful money per 
acre, who sold the same to Sir William Pultney, of 
Engl?..nd. 

Gorhani and Phelps not being able to pay the whole 
purchase money, compromised and surrendered to Mas- 
sachusetts that part of the land to which the Indian title 
remained unextinguished, being about .two thirds of the 
western part of it ; and in 1786, Morris purchased of 
Massachusetts the tract thus surrendered, extinguish- 
ed the Indian title, sold out several tracts to different 
persons, and mortgaged the residue to William Wil- 
link and others, of Amsterdam, called the Holland 
Company — under the foreclosure of which mortgages 
the company acquired the full title to their large tract, 

T 



224 BURNING SPRINGS. 

surveyed it into ranges and townships, after the man- 
ner of Ohver Phelps, and in ISOl opened a land office 
at Batavia, under the agency of Joseph ElUcot, for the 
sale thereof. 

Oliver Phelps, Esq. grandson of the original propri- 
etor, is the owner and resides on the premises of his 
ancestor in Canandaigua. 

Burning Springs. From 8 to 10 miles, in a south- 
westerly direction from Canandaigua, are found several 
springs, chargfed with inflamable ga^. The following 
description of them is taken from a Canandaigua jour- 
nal : 

" These springs are found in Bristol, Middlesex, and 
Canandaigua. Tlie former are situated in a ravine on 
the west side of Bristol Hollow, about half a mile from 
the North Presbyterian meeting house. The ravine is 
formed in clay slate, and a small brook runs through 
it. The gas rises through fissures of the slate, from 
both the margin and the bed of the brook. Where it 
rises through the water, it is formed into bubbles, and 
flashes only when the flame is applied ; but where it 
rises directly from the rock, it burns with a steady and 
beautiful flame, which continues until extinguished by 
storms, or by design. 

The springs in Middlesex are situated from one to 
two miles south-westerly from the village of Bushville, 
along a tract nearly a mile in length, partly at the bot- 
tom of the valley called Federal Hollow, and partly at 
an elevation of 40 or 50 feet on the south side of it. 

The latter have been discovered within a few years, 
in a field which had been long cleared, and are very nu- 



BURNING SPRINGS. 225 

merous. Their places are known by little hillocks of a 
few feet in diameter, and a few inches high, formed of 
dark bituminous mould, which seems principally to 
have been deposited by the gas, and through which it 
finds its way to the surface, in one or more currents. 
These currents of gas may be set on fire, and will burn 
with a steady flame. In winter they form openings 
through the snow, and being set on fire, exhibit the nov- 
el and interesting phenomenon of a steady and lively 
flame in contact with nothing but snow. In very cold 
weather, it is said, tubes of ice are formed round these 
currents of gas, (probably from the freezing of the wa- 
ter contained in it,) which sometimes rise to the height 
of two or thi-ee feet, the gas issuing from their tops ; 
the whole when lighted in a still evening presenting an 
appearance even more beautiful than the former. 

Experiments made with the gas seem to prove, that 
it consists principally ofa mixture of the light and heavy 
carburetted hydrogen gases, the former having greatly 
the preponderance ; and that it contains a small pro- 
portion of carbonic acid gas. It seems also to hold a 
little oily or bituminous matter in solution. It burns 
with a lambent, yellowish flame, scarcely inclining to 
red, with small scintillations of a bright red at its base. 
It has the odour of pit coal. It produces no smoke 
bat deposits, while burning, a small quantity of bitu- 
minous lampblack. It is remarkable that the hillocks, 
through which the gas rises, are totally destitute of 
vegetation. Whether the gas is directly deleterious to 
vegetable life, or indirectly, by interrupting the contact 
of the air of the atmosphere, it is certain that no plant 
can sustain life within the circle of its influence. 



226 STAGS ROUTE — EAST AVOX. 

It is well known that this gas is found abundantly in 
coal mines ; and being accidentally set on fire, (mixed 
as it is in those mines with the air of the atmosphere,) 
has many times caused terrible and destructive explo- 
sions. The writer cannot learn that it has ever been 
known to be generated in the earth, except in the pres- 
ence of coal ; and hence the inference is strong that it 
proceeds from coal." 

From Canandaigua stages may be taken for Roches- 
ter, (see " Canal Route,") distant 27 miles in a north- 
westerly direction, and the route continued from thence 
to the Falls by stage or canal ; l-at if a visit to Montre- 
al, by the way of Lake Ontario, is not contemplated, it 
is generally deemed a better course to proceed directly 
to Buffalo and the Falls, and return by the way of Ro- 
chester. In pursuing the usual route from Canandai- 
gua to Buffalo, 

East Bloom field is reached in traveUing 9 miles, 
and West Bloomfield in going 5 miles farther. They 
are considered among the richest agricultural town- 
ships in the state ; presenting a succession of beautiful 
and highly cultivated farms. The fruit raised on these 
lands, particularly apples and peaches, is not excelled 
in any section of the country. 

Lima is 4 miles from West Bloomfield, and is a con- 
tinuation of the same rich and fertile soil, divided into 
highly improved and productive farms. 

East Avon is 5, and Avon Post Office 7 miles 
from Lima. The Genesee river passes through the 
town of Avon, and is navigable for boats to the Erie 
canal at R,ochcster, 20 miles distant, with which it is 



STAGE ROUTE — CALEDONIA, 227 

connected by a feeder. The alluvial flats are very ex- 
tensive and fertile ; and the uplands are well watered 
by small streams and springs. A remarkable bulbous 
root grows on the Genesee flats in this town. It is 
from 3 to 4 feet in length, from 6 to 8 inches in diame- 
ter, and assumes the external appearance of a log in 
the earth. A small creeping vine, like that of the straw- 
berry, proceeds from the root ; and its natural vegeta- 
ble productions are almost infinitely various. 

The Avon Spring is becoming a place of considera- 
ble resort for invaUds, Its waters, which are strongly 
impregnated with sulphur and alum, are found benefi- 
cial in various diseases. The tourist will generally find 
himself amply compensated by spending a day at this 
place. 

Caledonia, 8 miles from Avon Post Office, is more 
particularly celebrated as the location of a large Springy 
than for any thing else. The stage usually stops at 
the village long enough to enable passengers to visit 
this natural curiosity, which is situate a few rods north 
of the principal street. Within a small area, sufficient 
water rises to propel a mill, (of which there are several 
on the stream below,) at all seasons of the year. The 
water is pure and appears to rise from a rocky bottom. 
A stage runs daily from this place to Rochester, which 
is 20 miles distant. A part of the route lies on the bank 
of the Genesee river, and, most of the way, through an 
uncultivated country. Settlements and improvements, 
however, are rapidly increasing ; and the wilderness 
will ere long give place to the arts of husbandry. 
t2 



§28 STAGE ROUTE — BATAVIA. 

Pursuing the direct route from Caledonia to Buffalo, 
the next place of importance is the pleasant and thri 
ving village of 

Lerot, which is 6 miles west of Caledonia, and 17 
miles south of the Erie Canal. Allen's Creek, which 
passes through the village, affords important mill privi- 
leges, and contributes much to the value and business 
of the place. The number of buildings already erect- 
ed is between 3 and 400, principally located on one 
street ; among which are several very handsome pri- 
vate dwellings. Numerous petrifactions have been 
found in the bed of the creek, about 200 yards north of 
the village bridge ; among which are petrified turtles, 
w^eighinsc from 10 to 300 pounds. They are compos- 
ed principally of dark coloured bituminous limestone, 
which is easily split, and often discovers crystaline 
veins, together with yellow clay or ochre. The mine- 
ralogist Mall find much here to gratify liis taste and re- 
ward his researches. The delightful appearance of the 
village, also, with i<^3 charming location on an emi- 
nence, will often induce the traveller to make it a tem- 
porary resting place from the fatigues of a journey. 

Batavia is 10 miles from Le Roy. It is the capital 
of Genesee county ; and assumes more the appearance 
of one of the early settled villages in New-England, 
than the more flourishing villages of the west. It is 
situated on the north side of the Tonewanta creek, on 
an extensive plain, and has several handsome and even 
elegant private mansions. Besides the court house 
and jail, it contains a bank, the Holland company land 
office, and a few other public buildings. 



StA&E ROUTE — BATAVIA. 229 

This village has become somewhat celebrated as the 
theatre of events connected with the masonic fraterni- 
ty. It was the residence of the noted William Morgan, 
previous to his abduction ; and from one of its printing 
offices was first issued what has been denominated the 
secrets of masonry. The excitem.ent produced for a 
time in the village, and in other sections of the coun- 
try, was of a nature the most rancorous and intolerant, 
and unworthy ths character of an enliglitened people. 
Illiberal feelings, however, have in a measure given 
place to reason ; and there is a prevailing disposition 
to establish peace and good order. 

After leaving Batavia for Buffalo, the country soon 
assumes a less populous appearance ; a. id the travel- 
ling is rendered unpleasant from the extensive cause- 
ways which intervene consisting of logs placed trans- 
versely, in the road. This has been done to avoid the 
deep mud on the low grounds, which are subject to fre- 
quent inundations in the spring and fall. The state of 
these roads has induced many to prefer the ridge road 
or alluvial way from Rochester to Lewiston, (which is 
noticed in a subsequent part of this volume.) But, in 
visiting Buffalo, as well as the Falls, the latter route is 
more circuitous, and can be taken with great conven- 
ience in returnino-. 

The intervening places between Batavia and Buffalo 
are Pembroke, 14 miles— Clarence, 8 — Williamsville, 
8 — from v/hich to Buffalo is 10 miles. [For a descrip- 
?.ion of the latter place, see '* Canal Route."] 



§30 tCRlE CAKAt. 



ERIE CANAL. 

This magnificent structure was commenced under 
the patronage of the state, on the 4th of July, 1817, 
and was completed in 1825, uniting the waters of the 
Erie and Hudson, at an expense of less than seven mil- 
lions of dollars — a sum trivial in comparison with the 
immense advantage derived to the state from such com- 
munication. The canal, beginning at Albany on tho 
Hudson, passes up the west bank of that river nearly 
to the mouth of the Mohawk ; thence along the bank 
of the Mohawk, to Schenectady, crossing the river 
twice by 2 aqueducts. From Schenectady it follows 
the south bank of the Mohawk until it reaches Rome, 
In some places it encroaches so near as to require em- 
bankments made up from the river to support it. An 
embankment of this description, at Amsterdam village, 
is 5 or 6 miles in extent. What is called the long level, 
being a distance of 69 1-2 miles without an intervening 
lock, commences in the town of Frankfort, about 8 
miles east of Utica, and terminates 3-4 of a mile east 
from Syracuse ; from thence the route proceeds 3ii 
miles to Lake Port, situated on the east border of the 
Cayuga marshes, 3 miles in extent, over which to the 
great embankment, 72 feet in height and near 2 miles 
in length, is a distance of 52 miles ; thence 8 1-2 miles 
to the commencement of the Genesee level, extending 
westward to Lockport, nearly parallel with the ridge 
road, 65 miles. Seven miles from thence to Pendleton 
village the canal enters Tonncwanta creek, which it 
follows 12 miles, and thence following the east side of 
the x\iao"ara liver, communicates with Lake Erie at 



EPaE CAHAL. 231 

Buffalo, The whole line of the canal from Albany to 
Buffalo is 363 miles in length. It is 40 feet wide at the 
top and 28 feet wide at the bottom. The water flows 
at the depth of 4 feet in a moderate descent of half an 
inch in a mile. The tow path is elevated about 4 feet 
from the surface of the water, and is 10 feet wide. The 
whole length of the canal includes 83 locks and 18 
aqueducts of various extent. The locks are construct- 
ed in the most durable manner of stone laid in water 
lime, and are 90 feet in length and 1 5 feet in width. 
The whole rise and fall of lockage is 688 feet, and the 
height of Lake Erie above the Hudson 568 feet. The 
principal aqueducts are, one crossing the Genesee river 
at Rochester, 804 feet in length ; one crossing the Mo- 
hawk at Little Falls, supported by 3 arches, the centre 
of 70 feet, and those on each side of 50 feet chord ; and 
two crossing the Mohawk river near Alexander's 
bridge, one of which is 748 feet and the other 1188 feet 
in length. The whole workmanship evinces a degree 
of beauty and proportion consistent with the greatest 
strength. In many places the sides of the canal are 
either paved wdth small stones or covered wath thick 
grass, designed to prevent the crumbling of the soil by 
the motion of the water. To the main canal are a 
number of side cuts or lateral canals : one opposite 
Troy, connecting with the Hudson ; one at Syracuse, 
a mile and a half in lenghth, to Salina ; one from Syra- 
cuse to Oswego, 38 miles in length ; one at Orville ; 
one at Chitteningo : one at Lake Port, extending to 
the Cayuga lake, 5 miles, and from thence to the Sen- 
eca lake at Geneva, a distance of 15 miles ; and one at 
Eoehester of two miles in length, which serves the 



232 ERIE CANAt. 

double purpose of a navigable feeder, and a mean of 
communication for boats between the canal and the 
Genesee river. The Chemung canal, extending from 
the head waters of the Seneca lake to the Chemung riv- 
er, 18 miles distant, with a navigable feeder of 13 miles, 
from Painted Post on the Chemung river to the sum- 
mit level of the canal is nearly completed. The Crook- 
ed lake canal, 7 miles in length, extending from the out- 
let of the Seneca lake to the Crooked lake, near Pen 
Van, is also in progress. The debt contracted for the 
Champlain and Erie canals, amounted, on the first of 
January, 1823, to ,<?9, 108,269, including $1,621,274, 
expended in the construction of feeders, lateral canals, 
dams, &c. and in the payment of salaries of the com- 
missioners and other officers engaged in the work. 
The revenue fi-om the tolls, &c. of both canals, in 1822, 
amounted to $64,071 ; in 1823, to $151,099 ; in 1824, 
to $283,320 ; in 1825, to $500,000 ; in 1826, to $675,190 ,- 
in 1827, to $859,058 ; in 1828, to $883,000 ; m 1829,+ 
to $813,137; in 1830, to $1,056,799; in 1831, to $1,- 
202,531 ; in 1832, to $1,229,483 ; and in 1833, to $1,- 
910,895. The total amount of the canal debt on the 
1st January, 1834, was $6,673,006. Nearly one half of 
this debt is payable in 1837, and the residue in 1845. 
About one and a half millions, however, were paid in 
1833, by pvirchasing in the stock at a premium ; and it 
is supposed that the surplus monies on hand and those 
which will be received during the years 1835, '6 and '7, 
will be sufficient to pay the entire debt. 



* The tolls of the Oswego, and Cayuga and Seneca 
canals are included after 1829. 



CANAL ROtTTt. 233 



CANAL PASSAGE. 

Of the sources of gratification to the tourist, during 
the canal passage, that of novelty is perhaps tlie great- 
est. To the man of pleasure, it will be considered, per- 
haps, too little diversified with incident to be repeated ; 
but to the man of business this objection will probably 
yield to the united considerations of the convenience 
and safety of this mode of conveyance. The passage 
boats are generally constructed 80 feet in length and 
14 feet in width, and draw from 1 to 2 feet of water. 
The cabin occupies the whole length of the deck, ex- 
cepting about 8 or 10 feet reserved at one end for the 
cook, and 4 or 6 feet at the other end for the pilot. The 
intermediate space is occupied as a cabin, constructed 
from the deck into a room 8 feet in height, with single 
births on each side, and calculated to accommodate 30 
persons. The boats are drawn by three horses, one be- 
fore the other, and move day and night, at the rate of 4 
miles an hour. Relays are furnished every 8 or 10 
miles. Boats with commodities proceed at the rate of 
55 miles in 24 hours ; and boats with passengers (in- 
cluding delays) about 85 miles in the same time. 

CANAL ROUTE. 

The several places and distances, as they occur on 
ihe canal route from Albany to Buffalo are as follows : 



S34 



«ANAL ROVTE, 



Distance from 



<:> 




. 












o 




>■> 






, 






a 




■ w 






^" 






Cu 




s 




ZJ 


o 


c 


■>ij 


o 
o 


>> 


c 


rt 

•^ 


X 

ci 


o 


'/J 

o 


5 

o 

o 


a- 


< 


CO 


L-; 


O} 


Pm 


tf 


J 



ALBANY 

Troy. 

Junction 

Schenectady .... 

Amsterdam 

Schoharie Creek. 
Caughriawaga.. . 
Sprakei^s Basin . . 
Canajoharie; .... 
Bowman's Creek 

Little Falls 

Herkimer 

German Flats. . . 

Frankfort 

Utica 

Whitesboro' 

Oriskany 

Rome 

New-London. . . . 

Loomis 

Oneida Creek . . . 
Lenox Basin .... 

Canastota 

New Boston 

Chittcningo 

Kirkville 

Manlius 

OrviUc 

Syracuse 

Geddes 

Nme Mile Creek, .| 
Camillas 









30 


1101171, 


7 


7 


23 


103 


164 


2 


9 


21 


10l']62| 


21 


30 





80 1411 


16 


46 


16 


64il25| 


7 


53 


23 


57 


118 


4 


57 


27 


53 


114 


9 


66 


36 


44 


105 


3 


69 


39 


41 


102 


3 


72 


42 


38 


99 


16 


88 


58 


22 


83 


7 


95 


65 


15 


76 


2 


97 


67 


13 


74 


3 


100 


70 


10 


71 


10 


110 


80 





61 


3 


114 


84 


4 


57 


4 


117 


87 


7 


54 


8125 


95 


15 


46 


7 132 


102 




39 


6:138 


lOS 


28 


33 


3'141 


111 


31 


30 


3 


141 


114 


34 


27 


2 


146 


115 


36 


25 


4 


150 


120 


40 


21 


4 


154 


124 


44 


17 


4 


158 


128 


48 


13 


4 


162 


132 


52 9 


3 


165 


135 


55 6 


6 


171 


141 


61 


2 


173 


143 


63 2 


6 


179 


149 


69 


8 


1 


ISO 


150 


70 


9 



200i270[333|363 
326 356 
3211354 
3031333 
287317 
2801310 
276 306 



193 
191 
170 
154 
147 
143 



203 
261 
240 
224 
217 
213 



1341204 
131^201 

128'l98 
112(182 



105 
103 
100 
90 
86 
83 
75 
68 
62 
59 
56 



267 
264 
261 

245 



175 
173 
170 
160 
156 
153 
145 
1.38 
132 
129 
126 



297 
294 
291 

275 



238 268 
236j266 
2331263 
2231253 



54 124 
50 120 
46ill6 



42 
38 
35 
29 
27 
21 
20 



112 

108; 

i05j 
99! 
97 
91 
90 



219 
216 
208 
201 
195 
192 
189 
187 
183 
179 
175 
171 
168 
162 
160 
154 
153 



249 
246 
238 
231 
225 
222 
219 
217 
213 
209 
205 
201 
198 
192 
190 
184 
183 



CANAL ROUTE. 



235 



Distance from 



a> 




. 












CJ 




>-> 






^ 






d 




TS 






c 


^ 




o 


>-, 


5 




m 

o 
c3 


o 




•i-5 

l-H 

O 


















o 




>^ 


O 


o 


o 


n- 


< 


CO 


U) 


m 


CU 


ci 


J 



Canton 

Jordan 

Weed's Port.. 
Centre Port. . 
Port Byron . . . 
Lakeport .... 

Clyde 

Lyons 

Lockville 

Newark 

Port Gibson. . 

Palmyra 

Fair Port 

FuUom's Basin . . . 

Pittsford 

Rochester 

Spencer's Basin , 

Og^den 

Adams' Basin.. . 

Brockport 

HoUey 

Murray 

Albion 

Portville 

Oak Orchard . . . 

Medina 

Middleport 

Lockport 

Pendleton 

Tonawanda .... 
Black Rock .... 
BUFFALO.... 



5 


185 


155 


75 


14 


15 


85 


148 


6 


191 


161 


81 


20 


9 


79 


142 


6 


197 


167 


87 


26 


3 


73 


136 


1 


198 


168 


88 


27 


2 


72 


135 


2 


200 


170 


90 


29 





70 


133 


6 


206 


176 


96 


35 


6 


64 


127 


11 


217 


187 


107 


46 


17 


53 


116 


9 


226 


196 


116 


55 


26 


44 


107 


6 


232 


202 


122 


61 


32 


06 


101 


1 


233 


203 


123 


62 


33 


37 


100 


3 


236 


206 


126 


65 


36 


34 


97 


5 


241 


211 


131 


70 


41 


29 


92 


11 


252 


222 


142 


81 


52 


18 


81 


2 


254 


224 


144 


83 


54 


16 


79 


6 


260 


230 


150 


89 


60 


10 


73 


10 


270 


240 


160 


99 


70 





63 


10 


280 


250 


170 


109 


80 


10 


53 


2 


282 


252 


172 


111 


82 


12 


51 


3 


285 


255 


175 


114 


85 


15 


48 


5 


290 


260 


180 


119 


90 


20 


43 


5 


295 


265 


185 


124 


95 


25 


38 


2 


297 


267 


187 


126 


97 


27 


36 


8 


305 


275 


195 


134 


105 


35 


28 


4 


309 


279 


199 


138 


109 


39 


24 


5 


314 


284 


204 


143 


114 


44 


19 


1 


315 


285 


205 


144 


115 


45 


18 


6 


321 


291 


211 


150 


121 


51 


12 


12 


333 


303 


225 


162 


133 


63 





7 


340 


310 


230 


169 


140 


70 


7 


12 


352 


322 


262 


181 


152 


82 


19 


8,360 


330, 


250 


189 


160 


90 


27 


3 


363 


333I 


253 


192 


163 


93 


30 



178 

172 

166 

165 

163 

157 

146 

137 

131 

130 

127 

122 

111 

109 

103 

93 

83 

81 

78 

73 

68 

66 

58 

54 

49 

48 

42 

30 

23 

11 

3 





236 CANAL ROUTE — MOHAWK CASTLE. 

For a description of Albant, Trot, The Junctiom, 
Schenectady, and Amsterdam, see pages 135, 141, 
144, 153, 195. 

Schoharie Creek is 7 miles from Amsterdam. The 
ruins of Fort Hunter, at the mouth of this creek, are 
still visible. It was an important post during the early 
wars of this country. A chapel, built by Clueen Anne 
for the Indians, is also to be seen near this place, call- 
ed (lueen Anne's Chapel. The canal crosses the creek, 
by means of a dam and guard lock. 

Caughnawaga, 4 miles. The village is on the op- 
posite side of the river, and is noticed at p. 195. 

Anthony's Nose, 8 miles from Caughnawaga. This 
is a very abrupt and prominent hill on the south side of 
the canal, having on its top a cavern, which extends to 
a great depth. 

Spraker's Basin, 1 mile farther, is a small village 
which has recently sprung up on the bank of the canal. 

Canajoharie, 3 miles. (Seep. 196.) 

Bowman's Creek, 1 mile. 

Fort Plain, 3 miles. (Seep. 196.) 

East Canada Creek, 4 miles. This creek enters 
the Mohawk on the north side ; near which Capt. But- 
ler was killed by the Indians soon after his wanton de- 
Btruction of the village of Cherry Valley. 

Mohawk Castle, 2 miles. The ruins of an old 
chapel erected for the use of the Mohawk Indians are 
still visible at this place, and also some slight remains 
of their once formidable fortifications. 



CANAL ROUTK -vVUITESBOROUGH. 237 

Three miles farther,* as the boat approaches Little 
Falls, the scenery becomes highly picturesque and sub- 
lime. On either side are lofty and apparently inacces- 
sible mountains, affording a narrow pass for the road, 
river and canal. Indeed, the latter, for a considerable 
distance, is formed by an excavation in the side of the 
mountain, having a wall of 20 or 30 feet to support its 
northern embankment. The river here, for two or 
three miles in extent, descends with much rapidity over 
a rocky and uneven bottom, and exhibits, in some in- 
stances, an appearance not unlike the rapids above the 
falls of the Niagara. 

Little Fai^ls, 5 miles from Mohawk Castle. {See 
p. 197.) 

After leaving Little Falls, the canal enters a smooth 
and delightful level, including what are called the Ger- 
man Flats, passing near the village of Herkimer, 7 
miles from the Falls, {see p. 201 ;) from thence to 
Frankfort, 5 miles ; and from thence to Utica, 10 
miles. 

For a description of Utica and Trenton Falls, see pages 
201 to 210.) 

Whitesborough, 4 miles north-west of Utica, is a 

beautiful aud wealthy village, located on a rich and fer- 
tile plain. The principal and most elegant street is a 



* A brick house near this point, standing on elevated 
ground south of the canal, was the former residence of 
Gen. Herkimer. He received a wound in a skirmish 
during the revolution, (noticed at p. 239,) of which he 
died at his residence. His remains repose in an adjoin* 
mg field 



238 CANA ROUTE — ROME. 

short distance from, and runs parallel with the canal ; 
from which, through branches of trees half enshroud- 
ing the village, may be seen several elegant country 
seats. It may be considered, indeed, as better adapted 
for a country residence than a place of business. At 
the eastefn extremity of the village is shown the first 
framed house erected in the county of Oneida ; half a 
mile from which, the canal passes over the Sauquait 
creek. Within 11 miles of the canal, on this creek, 
there are 84 mills of various descriptions, including sev- 
eral factories, some of which cost rising of $120,000. 
The York mills, or cotton factories, half a mile south of 
the canal, are considered among the best in the state, 
and constitute of themselves, with the houses for labor- 
ers, a compact village. 

Oriskant, 3 miles from Witesborough, is a flourish- 
ing village of about 100 houses. It is situated on the 
Oriskany creek, which here enters the canal as a feed- 
er. The Oriskany Manufacturing Company have a 
woollen factory here, which is the most extensive of the 
kind of any in the state. The capital of the company 
is $200,000, one half of which has been paid in ; and 
the amount of wool annually consumed is 160,000 
pounds. 

Rome, 8 miles. This is a half shire town of the 
county of Oneida, contains a court house, jail and bank, 
and is pleasantly situated on the north side of the old 
canarconnecting Wood creek with the Mohawk, and 
about half a mile north of the Erie canal. It contains 
between 150 and 200 houses, principally located on 
one street, running east and west. The ruins of Fort 
Stanwix, near the village between Wood creek and the 



CAnAI. ROtJlE — H£W LONDON. ^39 

l^iohawk, are still visible. This fort was erected in 
1758 by the British, was suffered to decay, and was af- 
terwards rebuilt by the Americans during the revolu- 
tion. 15 or 1800 men, including Indians, were sent 
from Montreal by Burgoyne, in 1777, to besiege the 
Fort. They were commanded by the Baron St. Leger. 
Gen. Herkimer, commandant of the militia of Tryon 
county, (embracing the present counties of Montgom- 
ery and Herkimer,) was sent against them with about 
800 men. On meeting a detachment of Leger's forces, 
the militia mostly fled on the first fire. A few, howev- 
er, remained and fought by the side of Gen. H. who 
was mortally wounded in the road between Whites- 
town and Rome. The Americans lost 160 killed and 
240 wounded. The fort, which was commanded by 
Col. Gansevoort, was afterwards assaulted by Leger's 
army ; but they were driven off by a sortie, directed by 
Col. Willet, and their camp plundered. Subsequently 
the fort was summoned to surrender ; but through a 
stratagem of Gen. Arnold, who sent two eniissaries 
from the camp at Stillwater, an Indian and a white 
man, to inform Leger of the approach of a powerful 
Amencan army for the relief of the besieged, he order- 
ed a precipitate retreat to the Oneida lake, leaving all 
his baggage behind. 

An arsenal belonging to the U. S. is situate about 
half a mile west of the village and 300 yards north of 
the canal. 

New-London, a small village, is passed, 7 miles 

from Rome ; and the village of Loomis, 6 miles farther ; 

3 miles from which, the canal crosses the Oneida 

Creek. From thence to Lenox Basin, is 3 miles ; to 

t2 



240 CANAL ROUTE — SYRACUSE. 

Canastota, a new and flourishing village, 2 miles ; 
and to New Boston, 4 miles. 

Chitteningo is 4 miles farther. A navigable feeder 
enters the canal at this place. It is taken from the 
Chitteningo creek at the village of that name, a mile 
and a half distant. (See p. 212.) From Chitteningo 
to Manlius {see p. 212) is 8 miles ; from thence to Or- 
ville 3 ;* and from thence 6 miles to 

Syracuse. The appearance of this village as you 
approach it, is handsome. It is bnilt on both sides 
of the canal, and the stores and warehouses are sub- 
stantial and lofty. On the left as you come up the ca- 
nal, is one of the most splendid Hotels in the state. 
It is of brick, four stories high, and surrounded with 
piazzas. There are also nearly 500 dwellings and 
stores, several handsome churches, a bank, court 
house and jail, and every thing has the appearance 
of a commercial bustling town. This thriving vil- 
lage owes its importance principally to the salt pro- 
duced in its neighborhood, the whole adjacent coun- 
try being impregnated with it, and springs from which 
immense quantities are manufactured rising in various 
directions. A little west of Syracuse, a plain of 300 
acres is nearly covered vdth vats for the manufacture 
of salt by solar evaporation. The water is brought in 
logs from the great spring at Salina, one mile distant, 
which supplies with very little attention, the various 



* At this place are inexhaustible beds of v^'ater lime, 
used for hydraulic cement ; large quantities of v/hich 
are annually exported. 



CANAL route:— SAUNA. Mi 

ranges of vats. A light roof is constructed to each vat, 
which can be shoved off or on at pleasure, to permit the 
rays of the sun to act upon the water, or to prevent thd 
dampness of the atmosphere from commingling there- 
with. The salt is taken out of these vats twice or 
three times during the warm season, and removed to 
store houses ; from whence it is conveyed in barrels to 
the canal for transportation. 

Salina is one and a half miles north of Syracuse, and 
though not on the usually travelled route to the west, 
should be visited for the purpose of examining the prin- 
cipal spring, and the various salt establishments con- 
nected therewith. A packet constantly plies between 
the villages on a lateral canal, aflbrding an easy and 
pleasant mode of conveyance. 

The spring at Sahna was first discovered by the In- 
dians many years since, by being the resort of deer and 
other animals. The first white settlers were in the 
habit of boiling the water in small vessels for domestic 
purposes. Since then, the spring has been excavated 
to a very considerable depth, and affords the strongest 
saline water yet discovered in the world, 40 gallons 
yielding about a bushel of pure salt. The v/ater is for- 
ced up to the top of an adjoining hill by a powerful hy- 
draulian driven by the surplus waters from the Oswego 
canal, which commences at this place. The salt wa- 
ter is in this way conveyed 85 feet above the canal to 
a large reservoir, into wbir.h it is discharged at the rate 
of 300 gallons per minute. It is hence carried to the 
difierent factories in Salina and Syracuse. Of these 
there acre about 100 at Salina and 30 at Syracuse ; 
there are also 26 at Liverpool, about 6 miles north-west 



S4'2 CANAL ROUTE — SALiHA. 

of Saiina, and about 30 at Geddes, 2 miles west of 
Syracuse. The works and springs all belong to the 
state, to which imposts are payable to the amount of 31 
cents per barrel of 5 bushels,* and every manufacturer 
pays two cents per bushel for the use of the water. The 
water is conveyed from the reservoir to the different 
manufactories and evaporating fields, by means of 
'(Wooden pipes. The salt is manufactured generally by 
boiling and evaporation. There are, however, two es- 
tabhshments in Vv'hich it is made in large wooden vats 
by means of hot air passing through them in large me- 
talic pipes. The manufactories contain from 15 to 40 
potash kettles, under each of wliich a constant fire is 
kept up, so that the water m_ay not cease to boil. The 
first deposit of the water is thrown away. The pure 
salt soon after makes its appearance, and is refined for 
the table by means of blood, milk, rosin, &c. The 
springs are considered as inexhaustible ; and the a- 
mount of salt manufactured at Saiina, Liverpool, Syra- 
cuse and Geddes in 1833 was 1,838,646 bushels. 

Saiina is a flourishing village, but of less magni- 
tude than Syracuse ; though from the rapidly increas- 
ing growth of both, it is not improbable that they will 
ere long become a continuous town. A fine view of 
the Onondaga Lake, about a mile distant, is had from 
the place. It is six miles long and two broad. At its 
north-western extremity is seen the pleasant village of 
Liverpool, of more recent origin, but promising to be- 



* These duties are applied by the constitution of the 
state towards the extinguishment of the canal debt. 



CANAL ROUTE — PORT BYRON, 24?» 

come a place of some importance. Gypsum and petri- 
factions are found in great quantities in the vicinity of 
the lake. 

The Oswego Canal, from the Onondaga lake to 
Lake Ontario at Oswego, is 3S miles long, including 20 
miles of the Oswego river, on which are several locks 
and darns. The whole lockage of the canal and river 
is 123 feet. 

Geddes, 2 miles by canal from Syracuse, is becom- 
ing a place of some importance, in consequence of the 
recent discovery of several valuable salt springs. They 
are mostly within a few rods of the canal, as well as 
numerous establishments for the manufacture of salt. 
A short distance west of the village, a fine prospect is 
had of the Onondaga lake and the villages of Liverpool 
and Salina, on its northern and eastern shores. 

Nine Mile Creek, 6 miles from Geddes. It is a 
stream of some nagnitude, and is crossed by the canal, 
over two arches. 

Camjllus, 1 mile. 

Canton, a small village, 5 miles. 

Jordan, 6 miles. A short distance east of the vil- 
lage, the canal crosses the Jordan creek. 

Weed's Port, 6 miles. A thriving village of about 
] 50 houses. A stage can be taken here daily for Au- 
burn, 7 miles south. (See p. 215.) 

Centre Port, 1 mile. 

Port Byron, 2 miles. The canal here crosses the 
Owasco creek, a stream issuing from a lake of that 
name 2 miles soutli of Auburn. The state prison is 



244 CANAL ROUTE — CLYDE. 

erected on the bank of this creek, the waters of which 
are used for propelhng the machinery. 

Five miles farther are the Montezuma salt works, 
about ^ of a mile north of the canal, with a lateral cut 
leading thereto ; one mile from which is the small vil- 
lage of 

Lake Port. The western section of the canal (con- 
tradistinguished from the middle and eastern sections) 
commences at this place. From Utica to Lake Port, 
the mean descent of the canal is 45 feet ; and there are 
9 locks, ascending and descending. From Lake Port 
to Lockport the ascent is 185 feet, and the number of 
intervening locl^^L The waters of the canal at the 
former placs^ are remarkably pure and chrystaline in 
their appearance, not unfrequenlly exhibiting large 
quantities offish at their bottom. 

One mile from Lake Port, the canal enters the Mon- 
tezuma marshes, 3 miles in extent. These marshes 
are formed by the outlets of the Cayuga and Seneca 
lakes, and exhibit a most dreary, desolate and stagnant 
appearance. The water is generally from 4 to 8 feet 
deep, and the bottom covered with long grass, the usu- 
al growth of swamps, extending frequently to the sur- 
face. A long bridge is used for a tow path over a part 
of these marshes. Shortly after leaving them, the ca- 
nal crosses and unites with the outlet oithe Canandai- 
gua lake, a sluggish stream, which, with the outlets of 
Cayuga and Seneca, soon form the Seneca river, which 
enters and constitutes a considerable part of the Oswe- 
go river. 

Clyde, 1 1 miles from Lake Port, is a flourishing vil- 
lage, containing glass works. From thence to Lyons, 



CANAL ROUTE — PITTSFORD. 245 

a handsome village, is 9 miles ; and from thence to 
LocKViLLE 6 miles, to Newark 1 mile, and to Port 
Gibson 3 miles. 

Palmyra, 8 miles farther, is a thriving village in 
Wayne county. It is built chiefly on a vi'ide street 
along the south bank of the canal, and is a place of 
considerable trade. Mud creek runs eastward, about 
40 rods north of the main street, and the canal passes 
between the creek and the street. There are several 
factories and mills on this creek. Palmyra and Port 
Gibson are landing places for goods designed for Can- 
andaigua. 

Fair Port, 11 miles. 

Fullom's Basin, 12 miles. From this place to Roch- 
ester, by canal, is 16 miles ; while the distance by land 
is but 7^. Travellers, accordingly, who have seen the 
Great Embankment over the Irondequoit creek, fre- 
quently take a stage, to shorten the excursion ; but 
those who have never passed over this artificial work, 
should continue on the canal route. The embankment 
is reached in about 4 miles from Fullom's Basin, and is 
continued for nearly two miles at an average height of 
about 70 feet. The novelty of a passage at so great 
an elevation, is much increased in the fine prospect af- 
forded of the surrounding country. Two miles from 
the embankment is the handsome village of 

PiTTSFORD, containing about 100 bouses and several 
stores ; and 10 miles farther is the flourishing and im- 
portant city of 



246 CANAL ROUTE — ROCHESTER. 

ROCHESTER.* 

It is situated on the east and west side of the Gene- 
see river, which, at this place, is 50 yards wide, and is 
crossed by 2 substantial bridges within the limits of the 
village. On the north side of the lower bridge, the lo- 
cal distinctions of East and West Rochester have been 
in a measure annihilated, by the erection of the Mar- 
ket and Exchange buildings over the Genesee, making 
the twain a continued village. Witlain its limits are 
two of the six falls on the river ; the upper a small fall 
of 12 feet at the foot of the rapids, and immediately 
above the canal aqueduct ; and the other the great fall 
of 97 feet, about 80 rods below. From a point of rock 
about the centre of these falls, at the foot of a small isl- 
and, the celebrated Sam Patch made his last and fatal 
jump, in the autumn of 1829. From a scaffold elevated 
25 feet above the table rock, making the entire height 
125 feet, he fearlessly and carelessly precipitated him- 
self into the abyss beneath. He did not rise at that 
time to the surface ; nor was his body found until the 
following spring, when it was discovered at the mouth 
of the Genesee river, 6 miles below. 

From a complete wilderness, Rochester has been re- 
deemed in the comparatively short period of about 22 
years, the first settlement having been made in 1812. 
Its situation in the immediate vicinity of the canal, and 
only 7 miles from Lake Ontario, with a ship navigation 



* For a description of Rochester and the surround- 
ing country, the editor is principally indebted to Lyman 
B. Langwortht, Esq. of that place. 



CANaL KOUTE — ROCHESTER. 24T 

wilhin two miles of the town, and a rail road connected 
ed with the Erie canal at the east end of the aqueduct, 
enables its inhabitants to select a market either at New- 
York, Cluebec, or on the borders of the great western 
lakes ; and the many other natural advantages which 
it enjoys for trade and manufactures, destines it to be- 
come one of the most important places in the interior 
of the state. The population of R.ochester at the cen- 
sus taken in the fall of 1827, was 10,818, making an 
increase of more than 3,000 within the preceding year ; 
and the number of buildings was 1474, ^52 of which 
had been built the season previous. Its population in 
1829 was estimated at 13,000, and its number of build- 
ings at near 2000, The Erie canal strikes the river in 
the south part of the village, and after following the 
eastern bank for half a mile, crosses the river in the cen- 
tre of the village, in a splendid aqueduct, which cost 
rising of $80,000. This aqueduct is constructed of red 
free ^toiie, and from the eastern extremity of its parapet 
walls to the western termination, is 804 feet long. It 
is built on eleven arches, one of 26, one of 30, and 
nine of 50 feet chord, under which water passes for 
flouring mills and other hydraulic establishments. The 
piers, which are placed on sohd rock, in the bed of the 
river are 4|, and the arches resting thereon 11 feet 
hio-h. On the north wall, which is of sufficient thick- 
ness for the towing path, is an iron raihng ; and at the 
vy-est end, the whole is terminated by a highway and 
tov/ing path bridge, of the most solid and elegant work- 
manship. The canal is suppUed by a navigable feeder 
from the Genesee, which enters it within the limits of 
the village, and through which boats may enter and as- 



548 CAXAL ROUTF ROCHESTER. 

cend the river from 70 to 90 miles. It has, indeed, been 
recently ascertained that the river is navigable for steam- 
boats of light burthen ; and a boat is now building by 
a company for that purpose. The height of the canal 
at Rochester above the tide waters of the Hudson is 
501 feet; above Lake Ontcrio, 270 feet; and below 
Lake Erie, 64 feet. 

Among the public building in the village, are a court 
house, jail, 11 churches, 2 markets, 2 banks, and a 
museum, together with two valuable institutions, the 
Franklin In#itute and Atheneum. There are also 
several extensive cotton and woollen manufactories, to- 
crether with various operations in iron and wood, suited 
to the wants of a great and growing country. The 
Globe buildings, a majestic pile, rising from the water's 
edge, 5 stories, exclusive of attics, with between 130 and 
140 apartments suitable for workshops and several stores, 
and which were a great ornament to the place, were 
destroyed by fire in the winter of 1834. The principal 
public houses are the R,ochester House, ClintonHouse, 
Eagle Tavern, Mansion House, Arcade House, and 
Monroe House. There are also two daily and several 
weekly newspapers. 

Within the limits of the village are 15 flouring mills, 
containing 63 run of stones, capable of manufacturing 
more than 3000 barrels of flour and consuming more 
than 15,000 bushels of w'heat every 24 hours. Some of 
the mills are on a scale of magnitude perhaps not equal- 
led in the world. One of them contains more than four 
acres of flooring, and all are considered unrivalled in 
the perfection of their macliinery. Indeed, so power- 
ful and complete is the whole flouring apparatus, that 



CAXAL ROUTE — HOCIIKSTER. 249 

there are several single runs of stones which grind, and 
the machinery connected therewith, bolt and pack 100 
barrels of flour per day. 

Charters arc granted for two important rail roads ; 
one to Batavia on the west, and the other to Dansville 
on the east side of the river. The stocks of both have 
been taken up, and the works will probably be com- 
menced the present season (1834.) 

The Arcade, erected in 1829, is 100 feet in front, 
135 feet in depth, and four stories high, exclusive of the 
attic and basement. It has 6 stories in front, with a 
large opening for a passage to the Arcade, where the 
post office, atheneum, arcade house, and a variety of 
offices are located. From the centre arises an observa- 
tory in the form of a Chinese Pagoda, which overlooks 
the surrounding country ; and in clear weather the 
lake can be seen like a strip of blue cloud in the hori- 
zon. The front of this edifice is stuccoed, in imitation 
of marble, except the first story, which is of the Oswe- 
go red free stone. 

Rochester has, during the present year (1834,) be- 
come an incorporated city. In population, it has gain- 
ed but little within the last three years ; but in busi- 
ness, stability, wealth and responsibility, it has experi- 
enced a most important and beneficial improvement. 
After a reverse of no inconsiderable magnitude, conse- 
quent upon a too rapid groioth for the interior, the Phoe- 
nix is now rising from its ashes ; the improvements in 
building, though less rapid than formerly, are neverthe. 
less in steady progress, and of a much more permanent 
character, and the city bids fair ultimately to reaclj 



250 CANAL ROUTE — ROCHESTER. 

the goal to which it seems entitled by its great natural 
advantages. 

The geological structure of this region can be easily 
traced, and is beautifully illustrated in the banks of the 
river, which are from J 00 to 200 feet in height, with a 
descent of 270 feet to the lake. At Carthage, two 
miles below, are a great variety of petrefactions, which 
have been blasted from the rocks in forming a canal for 
mill privileges. Seven miles from Rochester, a part of 
the way on the ridge road, on the east side of the river, 
is Irondequoit bay, with a high sand ridge running 
across it, except about two rods, where there is a chan- 
nel ; the shore is fine and sandy, and equals any in 
America for bathing. The bay is also celebrated for 
fishing and fowling. 

Stages leave Rochester daily, by way of Palmyra, 
Weed's Basin, Syracuse, Cherry Valley and Schoharie 
for Albany, 217 miles; and by way of Canandaigua, 
Geneva, Auburn, Skaneateles, Onondaga, Utica, Lit- 
tle Falls and Schenectady, for Albany, 237 miles. They 
also leave daily, by way of Lewiston (passing over the 
ridge road) and Niagara Falls, for Bvffalo, 104 miles;* 
and by way of Caledonia, Le Roy and Batavia, for Buf- 
fcdo, 77 miles. 

Packet Boats, also, leave Rochester every morning 
for Buffalo and for Albany. 



* The ridge road commences 2^ miles from Roches- 
ter, over which the foUovv'ing are the intervening dis- 
tances between that place and Buffalo: Carthage Falls 
2 miles, Parma 9, Clarkson 7, Murray 7, RidgcM'ay 15, 
Hartland 10, Cambria 12, Lewiston 12, Psiagara Falls 
7, Buffalo 22, 



CANAL HOCTi; — CARTHAGE. ^51 

The new and splendid steam boat, the United States, 
constantly plies during the summer season between 
Lewiston on the Niagara, and Ogdensburgh on the St. 
Lawrence river, touching at Carthage Landing, two 
rniles from Rochester, at the junction of the rail road, 
by which passages may be had to the Falls or Montre- 
al once a w*eek. Two other new boats are now build- 
ing, to ply on this and other routes, so as to make a 
daily line, touching at every port on the Lake. [This 
route is more fully noticed under the head of Lake Ontario.] 

Before leaving Rochester, (unless the ridge road or 
steam boat route should be taken,) the traveller will 
fmd it an object of interest to visit 

Carthage, 2 miles down the Genesee river. This 
village derived its consequence from an elegant bridge, 
which, during its existence, formed the most eligible 
route to the western part of the state. The bridge was 
erected across the river just below the basin of the 
falls, which are 70 feet. It consisted of a single arch, 
whose chord measured 300 feet. The distance from 
the centre to the river was 250 feet. This stupendous 
fabric stood a short time after its construction, and at 
length fell under the pressure of its own weight. 
One of the abutments is still standing ; and from its 
situation, visitants may judge of the former position of 
the bridge, and the almost impious presumption of man 
in attempting to overcome height, space, gravity, and 
the resistless fury of the elements. Vessels from the 
lake, 5 miles distant, ascend up the river to these falls, 
where they are laden and unladen by means of an in- 
chned plane — the descending weight being made to 
raise a lighter one by its superior gravity. 
v3 



S55 CANAL ROUTE — ALBiON. 

The Rochester rail road ends here, and is connected 
with the navigation of the Lake — the carriages both for 
passengers and for burthen passing up and down every 
half hour. 

The great western level on the canal commences two 
miles east of Rochester ; from v.'hence to Lockport a 
distance of 65 miles, there is no lock. Between these 
places the route is mostly through a wilderness. Oc- 
casionally a new village is seen springing up on the 
banks of the canal ; and appearances indicate, that the 
forest on the whole line will ere long give place to cul- 
tivation and compact settlements. 

Spencer's Basin, a small village, is 12 miles from 
Rochester ; and from thence to 

Brockport is S miles. This is a fine, thriving village, 
containing between 3 and 400 houses, about 2500 inhab- 
itants, 12 or 14 respectable stores, 3 churches, a semina- 
ry of learning, and all the other concomitants of a neat 
and industrious town. At this place are annually pur- 
chased from 2 to 300,000 bushels of wheat for the Roch- 
ester mills. 

HoLLET, 5 miles. A short distance east of the vil- 
lage is the Holley Embankment and culvert, over Sandy 
creek, elevating the canal 87 feet above the level of the 
creek. 

Albion, 10 miles : a pleasant and improving village, 
with about 1000 inhabitants and a respectable share of 
business. It has some mill privileges and is surround- 
ed by a fine farming country. Eight miles farther, in 
the town of Ridgeway, a public road passes binder the 



CANAL ROUTE — LOCKPORT. 253 

canal, through a handsome arch ; one mile from which, 
is the village of 

Medina, on the bank of Oak Orchard creek. It 
■contains about 1500 inhabitants, who derive much ad- 
vantage from the water privileges afforded by the creek, 
and from the rich and fertile country in the vicinity. 
The village is in a thriving condition, and bids fair to 
become a place of some importance. The canal here 
crosses the creek over the largest arch on the whole 
route. There are circular steps leading to the bottom j 
from whence is a foot path passing underneath and 
leading to the village. As the boat " Avaits for no 
man," passengers desirous of seeing this artificial work, 
should go ashore before reaching it, and gain time by 
a rapid walk. They can be received on board again 
at the village, where the boat stops to land and receive 
passengers. 

M1DDLEP0E.T, 6 miles. 

LocKPORT, 12 miles. By far the most gigantic works 
on the whole line of the canal are at this place. After 
travelling between 60 and 70 miles on a perfect level, 
the traveller here strikes the foot of the " Mountain 
Ridge," which is surmounted by 5 magnificent locks of 
12 feet each, connected with 5 more of equal dimen- 
sions for descending — so that while one boat is raised 
to an elevation of 60 feet, another is seen sinking into 
the broad basin below. The locks are of the finest 
imaginable workmanship, with stone steps in the cen- 
tre and on either side, guarded with iron railings, for 
the convenience and safety of passengers. Added to 
this stupendous work, an excavation is continued 



254 CANAL liOUTE — LOCKPORT. 

through the mountain ridge, composed of rock, a dis- 
tance of three miles, at an average depth of 20 feet. 
When viewing this part of the canal, we are amazed 
with the consideration of what maybe accompHshed by 
human means. 

The village of Lockport is partly located on the 
mountain ridge, immediately above the locks, and part- 
ly below ; and though " founded on a rock," surround- 
ed with rocks, and with little or no soil, it has already 
become a place of much importance. In 1821, there 
were but 2 houses in the place ; now there are between 
4 and 500, and upwarps of 4000 inhabitants. The vil- 
lage also contains a bank, and several commodious 
public houses. The canal here being on the highest 
summit level, and supplied with water from Lake Erie, 
(distant 30 miles,) an abundance is obtained for hy- 
draulic purposes, affording to the village a lasting and 
permanent power for mills and manufactories of various 
kinds. 

In the excavation through the mountain, several min- 
erals were discovered; among which were some of the 
finest specimens of dog tooth spar ever found in the U. 
States. At first they were easily obtained ; but they 
have lately become an object of profit, and are sold at 
prices corresponding with their beauty. 

Seven miles from Lockport,* at Pendleton, the ca- 
nal enters the Tonnewanta creek, and continues there- 

* Passengers in packets, who wish to visit the Falls, 
generally take U stage at Lockport, and proceed direct- 
ly to Manchester (the American Fall) 23 miles distant, 
or to Lewiston, 7 miles below the Falls ; visiting the 
latter afterwards. 



CANAL ROUTE — BUFFALO. 255 

in 12 miles to its mouth, at Tonawanda, where is a 
dam 4| feet high. From thence it is continued on the 
bank of the Niagara 8 miles to Black Rock, (noticed 
in a subsequent page) where it unites with the harbor, 
and from thence on the bank of the river 3 miles, to the 
city of 

BUFFALO. 

It is situated at the outlet of Lake Erie. It is a beau- 
tiful and thriving town, and with the advantages of 
both a natural and artificial navigation, is destined to 
become one of the most important places in the state. 
Its present population is estimated at upwards of 12,- 
000, and the number of buildings at rising of 2000. The 
Erie canal commences in this village, near the outlet of 
the Buffalo creek, and passes through an extensive and 
perfectly level plot, equidistant from the shore of the 
lake and the high grounds called the Terrace. From 
the canal are cut, at very suitable distances, lateral ca- 
nals and basins, rendering the whole of the lov)e.r town 
contiguous to water communication. Stores and ware- 
houses are so constructed as to receive the boats along 
side. In its location, Biiffalo is in the midst of the en- 
terprize and business of this new world. All the man- 
ufactures and migrating population from the north and 
east here find a resting place, and the agricultural pro- 
ducts of the xoesl, coming from the long extended 
lakes, here seek a new avenue to the Atlantic, The 
lov:er tov:n is rapidly spreading over that part below the 
Terrace, where begins a gentle and equal rise of ground, 
continuing nearly and perhaps quite two miles, and 
then falls away to a perfect level as far as the eye can 



256 BUFFALO. 

reach, bounded only by the horizon. Upon this eleva- 
ted ground there is a charming view of the lake, Niag- 
ara river, the canal with all its branches, the Buffalo 
creek, the town itself, and the Canada shore ; a pros- 
pect from which every one parts with reluctance. The 
streets are very broad, and passing from high grounds 
over the Terrace to the water, are intersected with 
cross streets. There are three public squares of some 
extent, which add much to the beauty of the town. 
The public buildings are a court-house, situated on the 
highest part of Main-street, well proportioned and 
handsomely ornamented. The large park in front of 
it, which has been recently enclosed and set round with 
forest trees, will in a short time add much to the beau- 
ty of this part of the town. The Presbyterian meeting 
house, standing near the Episcopal church upon a semi- 
circular common on Main-street, is an edifice of very 
commanding appearance. There are other houses of 
public worship erected by the Congregationalists, Bap- 
tists, Methodists, Unitarians, Universalists and Catho- 
lics, some of which are beautiful specimens of architec- 
ture, and would do credit to any city in America. There 
are many spacious hotels for the accommodation of the 
traveller ; among which, the Eagle Tavern, formerly 
kept by Mr. Rathbun, now by Mr. Harrington, who is 
the sole proprietor of the establisj^ment, is considered 
one of the best in the union. 

The place (then a village) was burnt by the Briiish 
in 1814, when there was but one house left standing. 
This is still pointed out in the upper part of the town. 
It was not until considerable time had elapsed after this, 
that Buffalo began to be rebuilt, nor until tlie canal waa 



ftUFFALO. 257' 

located, did it rise with much promise. It is now a 
city, having been incorporated as such in 1832, is rapid- 
ly rising into importance, awd will become inevitably 
the Liverpool of Western New- York. Two years 
have made more improvements in that place than in 
any other town of the west. A ship canal 80' feet wide 
and 13 feet deep, was completed in 1833, across from 
the harbor, near the outlet of Buffalo creek to the ca- 
nal, a distance of about 700 yards. Also a boat canal 
commencing at the Big Buffalo creek, near Mr. Kip's 
railway, to the Little Buffalo creek, a distance of 1,600 
feet. A rail road is making betw^een Black Rock and 
the city, along the line of the canal, and will probably 
be finished the present season, (1834,) and continued, 
as is contemplated, to the Niagara Falls. Within the 
past season there have been erected several blocks of 
four story fire proof buildings, intended for stores and 
warehouses, most of which were rented at a high price 
before the foundations were laid. Buffalo is thus rap- 
idly pressing on to distinction, having within her grasp 
those substantial advantages which lead to certain 
prosperity. The commerce of the place has increased 
at an unexampled rate. Between twenty and thirty 
steam-boats ply between Buffalo and various places on 
the lake. A morning and evening boat leave the har- 
bor daily for Detroit, and additional boats are building 
which will even increase the facilities of communication. 
A large number of square rigged schoouers whiten the 
lake with their canvass, and bear to and from Buffalo 
immense quantities of merchandize and agricultural 
products. 



258 BUFFALO. 

As this place was the theatre of important events 
during the last war, the writer had expected to find in 
the city church yard some monuments to the memo- 
ry of the brave who fell during that period. But he 
discovered only ©ne ; it contained the following inscrip- 
tion : "To the memory of Maj. Wm. Howe Cutler, 
who was killed at Black Rock by a shot from the 
enemy, on the night of the 9th October, 1812, while 
humanely administering to the relief of the wounded 
soldiers, who intrepidly crossed to the British shore, 
and brought over the Adams frigate, that had been sur- 
rendered by Gen. Hull, and the Caledonia ship belong- 
ing to the enemy. He was in the 35th year of his age, 
and son of the late Henry Cuyler, Esq. of Greenbush, 
in this state." 

The Seneca Village, settled by about 900 Indians, 
principally Senecas, with some Onondagas and Cayu- 
gas dwelling amongst them, is from 3 to 4 miles south 
east of Buffalo. They own 49,000 acres, reaching to 
the very bounds of the city, a greater part of which is 
luxuriantly fertile. A mission is established on the 
reservation, and a school kept for the instruction of 
Indian children. Near the Seneca Village is a sul- 
phur spring, which is much resorted to during the sum- 
mer season. 

Stages leave Buffalo every morning and evening for 
Utica — the morning line going through by day-light in 
3 days — the evening, day and night, in two days. A 
line also runs daily to Rochester. There are also seve- 
ral other lines which leave daily for Geneseo, Allegany, 
Cattaraugus, Cleveland, Sic. &c. 



WESTERN LAKES. 259 

THE WESTERN LAKES. 

Before proceeding down the Niagara river to the 
Falls, it may be interesting to tourists to examine a brief 
description of the great chain of lakes whose waters 
flow through this channel. It will give a more ade- 
quate idea of the vast amount of waters which are uni- 
ted in this stupendous river. 

Lake Superior, the first and westernmost of these 
inland seas, lies betv/een 46o and 49° of north latitude, 
and between 64=* and 93° west longitude from London. 
Its length is 459, and its average width 109 miles. 
About 40 small and 3 large rivers enter into this lake, 
on one of which, just before its entrance, are perpen- 
dicular falls of more than 600 feet. The water of the 
lake is remarkably transparent, so much so, that a ca- 
noe over the depth of six fathoms seems rather suspen- 
ded in air than resting on the water. The outlet of the 
lake is called the river St. Marie, which is 90 miles 
long, its waters flowing into 

Lake Huron. This lake is on the boundary be- 
tween the U. States and Canada, 218 miles long from 
east to west, and 180 broad. Besides the waters of 
Lake Superior, it receives the waters of 

Lake Michigan, Vv'hich is 300 miles long and about 
50 miles wide. At its northwest corner a large inlet 
opens, called Green Bay, about 100 miles long, and 
from 15 to 20 broad, into which Fox river empties. 
Three miles from the mouth of this river is Green Bay 
village, a very considerable settlement, and a U. States 
military post, called Fort Howard. The fort is built of 
stone, and is on a beautiful rise of ground. Steam-boats 
w 



I 



260 WESTERN LAKES. 

from BulFalo visit tliis place occasionally during the 
summer — distance 807 miles. Besides the Fox, the St. 
Joseph and Grand, two very important rivers, and in- 
numerable smaller streams, discharge their waters in- 
to Lake Michigan. 

Near the mouth of the straits which unite the Michi- 
gan with the Huron lake, and within the latter, is the 
island ofMichilimackinac, commonly called Mackinaw, 
distinguished as a military post during the French war, 
and occupied as such by the government of the U. S, 
at the present time. The island is about 9 miles in cir- 
cumference ; the village of Mackinaw, which is on its 
south east side, is surrounded with a steep cliff 150 feet 
high. On the top of this cliff stands a fort ; half a mile 
from which, on another summit, 300 feet above the lev- 
el of the lake, is Fort Holmes, commanding an exten- 
sive prospect of both lakes. Mackinaw is 180 miles 
NE. of Fort Howard, 313 N. of Detroit, and 627 NW. 
of Buffalo. 

The waters of these lakes thus congregated, enter 
the St. Clair iiver, 40 miles long, to the St. Clair Lake, 
which is about 90 miles in circumference. From this 
lake they enter the Detroit river, on which the city of 
Detroit* stands, 9 miles below the lake, and communi- 
cate with Lake Erie, 19 miles from Detroit. 



*In the year 1811, a passage from Buffalo to Detroit, 
usually required from 5 to 7 days — some were made in 
less time, but in cases of head winds, the time was fre- 
quently longer. These passages were generally in 
schooners, the most of which were comfortably fitted up, 
and well provided. Travellers and merchants were, 



FROM BUFITALO TO NIAGARA. 261 

Lake Erie is on the boundary line between tlieU. S. 
and Upper Canada. It is 290 miles long from SW. to 
NE., and in the widest part, 63 broad. Besides the 
waters of the upper lakes, it receives the Cayahoga riv- 
er and several tributary streams. 

Such are the sources of the Niagara ; a river infe- 
rior in splendor to none, perhaps, in the world. 

FROM BUFFALO TO NIAGARA FALLS, 

on the American side. 

A stage leaves Bufialo every morning at 6 o'clock, 
passing through the village of Black Rock 3 miles, 
Tonawanda 9 miles, (where the canal enters the Ton- 
avvanta creek,) Niagara Falls 11 miles. Fare $1. 
This line, after giving passengers an opportunity of 
witnessing the Falls for 2 or 3 hours, proceeds to 
Youngstown, or Fort Niagara, passing through Lcw- 
iston. 

On the Canada side. 

A stage leaves Buffalo, daily, at 8 A. M. passes 
through Black Rock 3 miles, crosses the ferry toWatei- 
loo, 1 mile, and proceeds to Chippewa battle ground 1 5 



however, not unfrequently, obliged to wait ten days for 
the appearance of a vessel, or a fair wind. Now trips 
are made in steamboats in about 40 hours. In pro- 
ceeding from Buftalo to Detroit, the boats land passen- 
gers at Erie, 90 miles — Grand River, GO — Cleveland, 
30 — and at Sandusky, 55 — from whence to Detroit i.s 
71 miles — total 305 miles. Boats also leave Buffalo 
daily for Erie, Penn. touching at Dunkirk and Port- 
land. 



262 FORT ERIE. 

miles, Chippewa village 1 mile, Niagara Falls 2 miles. 
Fare, including ferriage, $1,12. Stages leave Niagara 
at 3 P. M. for Clueenston and Fort George. 

A steam-boat leaves Buffalo every morning at 8 o'- 
cioc-v, passing every other da}' around Grand Island, 
and reaches the village of Chippewa about noon ; from 
whence passengers take stages for the Falls. The boat 
returns to Buffalo at 7 P. M. Fare each way $1. 

Black Rock, 3 miles from Buffalo, is a village of 
considerable magnitude on the west bank of the Niag- 
ra river. It was burnt by the British in 1314 ; but has 
been rebuilt, and is much increased from its former size. 
Among its most prominent buildings is the private 
mansion of Gen. Peter B. Porter, late secretary of war, 
which has a very handsome appearance from the water. 
A pier in the river, about 2 miles long, affords a harbor 
to the village, and is used as a part of the grand canal. 
The dam, how'ever, has been found insufficient to with- 
stand the force of the current. Repeated injuries are 
sustained, and vessels now seldom enter the harbor. 
The Niagara river is here one mile wide, and is cross- 
ed in a horse boat. Opposite Black Rock, on the Can- 
ada side, is the small village of 

Waterloo ; a little south of which stand the ruins 
of Fort Erie, rendered memorable as the theatre of 
several severe engagements during the last war. The 
last and most decisive battle fought at this place, was 
onthe night of the 15th of August, 1814. The fort 
was occupied by the Americans ; and its possession 
was considered an object of impofta^Ks to the British. 
Taking advantage of the darkness of the night, they 



CHIPPEWA BATTLE GROUnTi. 20.1 

made repeated and furious assaults, and were as often 
repulsed ; until, at length, they succeeded, by superior 
force, in gaining a bastion. After maintaining it for a 
short time, at the expense of many lives, accident placed 
it again in the hands of the Americans. Several car- 
triges which had been placed in a stone building ad- 
joning exploded, producing tremendoiss slaughter and 
death among the British. They soon retreated, leav- 
ing on the field 221 killed, among whom were Cols. 
Scottand Drummond, 174 wounded, and 186 prisoners. 
The American loss was 17 killed, 56 wounded, and 1 1 
missing. 

This action was followed by a splendid sortie near 
the fort on the 17th of the following month, which re- 
sulted in a loss to the British of near 1000, including 
385 prisoners, and to the Americans of 511 killed, 
wounded and missing. 

From Waterloo to Chippewa Battle Ground is 
15 miles, over a tolerably good, though sandy road. 

The Battle of Chippeioa was fought on the 5th of July, 
1814, and has been described as one of the most bril- 
liant spectacles that could well be conceived. The 
day (says a writer) was clear and bright; and the plain 
such as might have been selected for a parade or a 
tournament; the troops on both sides, though not nu- 
merous, admirably disciplined ; the generals leading on 
their columns in parson ; the glitter of the arms in the 
sun, and the precision and distinctness of every move- 
ment, were all calculated to carry the mind back to 
the scenes of ancient story or poetry — to the plains of 
Latium or of Troy, and all those recollections which fill 
w9 



264 CHIPPEWA VILLAGE. 

the imagination with images of personal heroism and 
romantic valor. 

After some skirmishing, the British Indians were 
discovered in the rear of the American camp. Gen. 
Porter, with his volunteers and Indians, were directed 
to scour in the adjoining forest. This force had nearly 
debouched from the woods opposite Chippewa, when 
it was ascertained that the whole British force, under 
Oen. Riall, had crossed the Chippewa bridge. Gen, 
Brown gave immediate orders to Gen. Scott to advance 
with his brigade, and to Gen. Ripley to be in readiness 
to support. In a few minutes the British line was dis- 
covered formed and rapidly advancing, their right on 
the woods, and their left on the river. Their object 
was to gain the bridge across a small creek in front of 
the American encampment, which, if done, would have 
compelled the Americans to retire. This bridge, how- 
ever, was soon gained by Gen. Scott and crossed, un- 
der a tremendous fire of the British artillery, and his 
line formed. The British orders were to give one vol- 
ley at a distance, and immediately charge. But such 
was the warmth of our musquetry that they could not 
withstand it, and were obliged to retreat before the ap- 
pearance of Ripley's brigade, which had been directed 
to make a movement through the woods upon the ene- 
my's right flank. The British recrossed the Chippewa 
bridge, which they broke down on their retreat, having 
suffered a loss in killed, wounded and missing, of 514. 
The American loss was 328. 

Chippewa Village is one mile north of the battle 
ground. It contains a small cluster of buildings and a 
few mills situate on the Chippewa creek, which runs 



IBRiDGEtVATER. 265 

through the village. The steam-hoat from Buffalo 
lands passengers at this place."'' One mile farther is 

Bridgewater or Lundt's Lane, celebrated as the 
ground on which an important battle was fought, 20 
days after the battle of Chippewa. The scene of ac- 
tion was near the mighty cataract of Niagara, within 
the sound of its thunders, and was, in proportion to the 
numbers engaged, the most sanguinary, and decidedly 
the best fought r^any action which ever took place on 
the American continent. The following letter, written 
by a surgeon of one of the regiments, the day after the 
engagement, contains many interesting particulars : 

"In the afternoon the enemy advanced towards 
Chippewa with a powerful force. At 6 o'clock Gen. 
Scott was ordered to advance with his brigade and at- 
tack them. He was soon reinforced by General Rip- 
ley's brigade ; they met the enemy below the falls. 
They had selected their ground for the night, intend- 
ing to attack our camp before day-light. The action 
began just before 7, and an uninterrupted stream of 
musketry continued till half past 8, when there was 
some cessation, the British falling back. It soon be- 
gan again with some artillery, which, with shght inter- 
ruptions, continued till half past 10, when there was a 
charge, and a tremendous stream of fire closed the con- 
flict. Both armies fought with a desperation bordering 
on madness ; neither would yield the palm, but each 
retired a short distance, wearied out with fatigue. 



*A steam-boat also runs from this place on the Can- 
ada side of Lake Erie, to Detroit. 



^6G BRIDGEWATER. 

Such a constant and destructive fire was never before 
sustained by American troops without falling back. 

" The enemy had collected their whole force in the 
peninsula, and were reinforced by troops from Lord 
Wellington's army, just landed from Kingston. For 
two hours the two hostile lines were within '20 yards of 
each other, and so frequently intermingled, that often 
an officer would order an enemy's platoon. The moon 
shone bright ; but part of our men being dressed like 
the Glcngarian regiment caused the deception. They 
frequently charged, and were as often driven back. 
Our regiment, under Colonei Miller, was ordered to 
storm the British batter}' . We charged, and took eve- 
ry piece of the enemy's cannon. We kept possession 
of the ground and cannon until 12 o'clock at night, 
when we all fell back more than 2 miles. This was 
done to secure our camp, which might otherwise have 
been attacked in the rear. Our horses being most of 
them killed, and there being no ropes to the pieces, we 
got off but two or three. The men were so excessive- 
ly fatigued they could not drag them. Y\"e lost one 
howitzer ; the horses being on full gallop towards the 
enemy to attack them, the riders were shot off and the 
horses ran through the enemy's line. We lost one 
piece of cannon, which w^as too much advanced, every 
man being shot that had charge of it but two. Seve- 
ral of our caissons were blo'.vn up by their rockets, 
which did some injury, and deprived our cannon of 
ammunition. The lines were so near that cannon could 
not be used with advantage.-' 

The British loss in killed, wounded and prisoners 
was 873, and the American loss 860. 



-NIAGARA FALLS. 267 

The road to the falls passes cUreclly over the hill 
where the British artillery was posted at the time 
Scott's brigade commenced the action ; and the houses 
in the village of Bricigewater — the trees and fences in 
the vicinity, still retain marks of the combat. Many 
graves are seen upon the hill ; among- others, that of 
Capt. Hull, son of the iate Gen. Hall, who distinguish- 
ed himself and fell in this action. Most of the slain 
were collected and burned upon the battle ground ; on 
which spot it is in contemplatiort to erect a church. 

BURNING SPRING. 

About half a mile north of Lundy's Lane, and within 
a few feet of the rapids in the Niagara river, is a Burn- 
ing Spring. The water is warm and surcharged with 
sulphuretted hydrogen gas. The water rises in a bar- 
rel, which is covered, and the gas escapes through a 
tube. On applying a candle to the tube, the gas takes 
fire, and burns with a brilliant flame until blown out ; 
and on closing the building for a short time in which 
the spring is contained, and afterwards entering it with 
a lighted candle, an explosion u:iay be produced. A 
small fee for the exhibition is required by the keeper of 
the spring. 

Half a mile from the Burning Springs are the cele- 
brated 

NIAGARA FALLS. 

They are situated on the Niagaja river, which unites 
the waters of Lake Erie and the upper lakes with Lake 
Ontario and the St. Lawrence. The river is 35 miles in 
length, and from half a mile to 5 or G miles in width. 
The banks of the river vary in their height above the 
Falls, from 4 to 100 feet Immediatelv below ths 



i€Q NIAGARA FALLS. 

falls, the precipice is not less than 300 feet, and from 
thence to Lake Ontario it gradually diminishes to the 
height of 25 or 30 feet. The Niagara river contains a 
number of islands, the principal of which is Grand Isl- 
and, which was ceded to the state of New- York by 
the Seneca nation of Indians, in 1815. For the grant 
the state paid $1000 down, and secured an annuity of 
$500. This island is 12 miles long, and from 2 to 7 
broad. 

The Falls are situated below Grand Island, about 20 
miles distant from Lake Krie, and 14 from Lake Onta- 
rio. At Chippewa creek, 2 miles above the Falls, the 
width of the river is nearly 2 miles, and its current ex- 
tremely rapid. From thence to the Falls it gradually 
narrows to about 1 mile in width. The descent of the 
rapids has been estimated at 58 feet. The course of the 
river above the Falls is north- westwardly, and below it 
turns abruptly to the northeast, flowing about a mile 
and a half, when it assumes a northern direction to 
Lake Ontario. The cataract pours over a summit in 
the form of a crescent, extending some distance up the 
stream. The sheet of water is separated by Goot Isl- 
and, leaving the grand fall on the Canada side about 
600 yards wide, and the high fall on the American side 
about 300. The fall on the American side drops al- 
most perpendicularly to the distance of 164 feet. The 
grand or horse-shoe fall, on the Canada side, descends 
to the river below in the form of a curve, 158 feet, pro- 
jecting about 50 feet from the base. The whole height, 
including the descent of the rapids above, is 2 16 feet. 
0)1 the Canada side. 

The view from the table rock, has been generally 
considered preferable ; but this point must be decided 



NIAGAHA FALLS. 869 

by the different tastes of visitors. The table rock pro- 
jects about 50 feet, and between it and the Falls an ir- 
regular arch is formed, which extends under the pitch 
almost without interruption, to the island. The de- 
scent from the table rock is by means of a spiral 
stair-way, which is enclosed. Visitants desirous of 
passing in the rear of the great sheet of water, are sup- 
plied by the keeper of the stairs with dresses for that 
purpose, and with a guide. On reaching the bottom 
a rough path winds along the foot of the precipice and 
leads under the excavated bank, which, in one place, 
overhangs about 40 feet. The entrance into the tre- 
mendous cavern behind the falhng sheet should never 
be attempted by persons of weak nerves. The humid- 
ity of the atmosphere, which, at times, almost prevents 
respiration ; the deafening roar of the foaming torrent, 
and the sombre appearance of surrounding objects, is 
oftentimes calculated to unnerve the stoutest frame. 
The farthest distance that can be approached, is to 
what is called Termination Rock, 153 feet from the com- 
mencement of the volume of water at Table Rock. 
Few, however, have the courage to proceed that dis- 
tance, and seldom go farther than 100 feet. 

A large crack in the table rock, which has increased 
annually for some years, renders it very certain that a 
considerable proportion will ere long fall into the abyss 
below. The part thus cracked is nearly 50 feet in 
width, and might be blasted off without difficulty. The 
height of this rock has been ascertained to be 163 feet ; 
while that of the Falls, measuring from the bridge near 
the terrapin rocksj has proved to be 158 feet 4 in=^ 
ches. 



270 NIAGARA FALL8. 

The Pavilion, kept by Mr. Forsyth, on the Canada 
side, is on a lofty eminence above the Falls ; affording 
from its piazzas and roof a beautiful prospect of the 
surrounding scenery. Jt is a handsomly constructed 
building, and can accommodate from 100 to 150 guests. 
Among the improvements lately made by Mr. Forsyth, 
is a new platform along what is called the upper bank, 
between his house and the river, giving an easy descent 
to the Table Rock, and also a new stair case from the 
rock to the'bank below, affording a pleasant and safe 
means of obtaining one of the best views of the Falls. 
He allows no charge to be exacted for descending this 
stair case, and provides guides and attendants for those 
who wish to pass under the falling sheet of water. 

From the Table Rock the traveller passes by the 
museum along the wooded bank of the river, until he 
arrives at the road leading down to the Ferry House, 
half a mile below the Horse Shoe Fall. At this point 
of the road he obtains a full view of the plot designed 
for the village of "Clifton." When the "Crescent" 
shall be occupied by tasteful cottages, and a little 
shrubbery added to the beautiful trees and plants which 
grow luxuriantly at present along its front, there will 
be few retreats more desirable, more picturesque, or 
healthful, as a summer residence, than this spot. The 
property consisting of forty acres of land, was purchas- 
ed in 1831 by Capt. Creighton, an Enghsh officer, who 
is indefatigable in ornamenting the ground, without al- 
lowing his improvements to interfere with the grandeur 
and magnificence of the surrounding scenery. A large 
stone building has also been recently erected for a pub- 
lic bouse, at the commencement of the ferry road : from 



NIAGARA FALLS. 271 

whence a splendid view of both falls, the river, islands, 
&c. may be had. Row boats are continually crossing 
the river from the termination of this road. The rapid- 
ity of the current, the numerous eddies, and the agitated 
appearance of the water, are calculated to impress a 
stranger with the idea that a passage is hazardous. But 
we believe few if any accidents have ever happened. 
The boatmen are skilful, and the crossing is generally 
effected in about 15 minutes. 

The Falls on the American side, 

Though less gigantic, are nevertheless beautiful ; 
and would alone be considered one of the greatest nat- 
ural curiosities in the world. A flight of stairs has been 
constructed from the bank a few rods below the falls to 
the bottom. In consequence of a rodiy barrier in front 
of the falling sheet, it can be approached to within a 
few feet ; though not without encountering a plentiful 
shower of the spray. About a quarter of a mile above 
the fall a bridge has been constructed from the shore 
to Bath Island ; which is connected by means of anoth- 
er bridge with Goat Island. The sensation in crossing 
these bridges, and particularly the first,* over the tre- 



* Gen. Peter B. Porter, of Black Rock, to whom the 
public are indebted for the construction of this bridge, 
informed me that its erection was not effected without 
considerable danger. . Two large trees, hewed to cor- 
respond with their shape, were first constructed into 
a temporary bridge, the buts fastened to ^the shore, 
with the hghtest ends projecting over the rapids. At 
the extremity of the projection, a small pier of stone 



21^ NIAGARA FALLS. 

mendous rapids beneath, is calculated to alarm the 
traveller for his safety, and hasten him in liis execur&ion 
to the Island. On Bath Island, mills have been erect- 
ed, contiguous to what is termed the race-way, vi'hich 
divides Bath from Goat Island. The latter, which is 
330 yards broad, is principally a wilderness. On the 
southern and western banks an extensive view is had 
of the rapids above and of the grand fall on the Canada 
side. But the best view of the latter is obtained from a 
small bridge which has been erected from the island to 
the Terrapin rocks, adjoining the falls, 300 feet from the 
shore. From the end of this bridge, which is placed on 
the very verge of the precipice, the frightful abyss, cov- 
ered with a foam of snowy whiteness, is seen beneath. 
No one can witness it at first, without involuntarily 
shrinking back. A fear that the frail structure on which 
he stands may possibly give way, induces him to re- 
trace his steps with as little delay as practicable; and 
it is not until after repeated visits, that this alarm whol- 
ly subsides. 



was first placed in the river, and when this became 
secure, logs were sunk around it, locked in such a 
manner as to form a frame, which was filled with stone. 
A bridge was then made to this pier, the tempora- 
ry bridge shoved forward, and another pier formed, 
until the whole was completed. One man fell into the 
rapids during the work. At first, owing to the velocity 
with which he was carried forward, he was unable to 
hold upon the projecting rocks ; but through great bod- 
ily exertions to lessen the motion, by swimming against 
the current, he was enabled to seize upon a rock, from 
which he was taken by means of a rope. 



NIAGARA FALLS. 273 

At the foot of Iris Island (adjoining Goat Island) is 
what is called the Blddle stair-icmj, erected by IN. BiD- 
ELE, Esq. president of the U. S. Bank. This affords 
a safe and easy passage to a position more favorable 
than any other for viewing this stupendous work of 
nature. The elevation of the island above the margin 
of the river or basin below, is 185 feet. The descent of 
the first 40 feet is effected by a flight £>f steps, commen- 
cing in the int-erior of the island, and descending in a 
rapid declivity to the brow of the perpendicular work, 
through a dugway walled on both sides ; the second 
flight is by a spiral stair way of 88 steps, down a per- 
pendicular building in the shape of a hexicon, resting 
on a firm foundation — the whole handsomely enclosed. 
From the foot of this building to the river below, (about 
SO feet) are three paths formed of stone steps, and lead^ 
ing to the water in different directions. * 

The amount of water which passes over the respecr 
tive falls, has been estimated by Dr. Dwight at more 
than 100 millions of tons an hour. No method can be 
devised for ascertaining the depth at the principal fall; 
but it is not improbable that it may be 6 or 800 feet ; as 
the depth of the stream half a mile below is from 250 to 
260 feet. 

To a stranger who shall examine the rapids above 
die falls, it will seem incredible that Goat Island should 



* It was from ladders erected at this place that the 
celebrated Sam Patch made a descent of 118 feet into 
tlie water below, a short time previous to his fatal leaj> 
9.t Rochester in the fall of i8?9. 



^74 NIAGARA FALLS. 

ever have been visited previous to the construction of 
the bridge. Yet as early as 1765,* several French offi- 
cers were conveyed to it by Indians in canoes, care- 
fully dropping down the river ; and it is but a few 
years since Gen. Porter, of Black Rock, with some oth- 
er gentlemen, also made a trip to the Island in a boat. 
They found but httle trouble in descending ; but their 
return was difficult and hazardous. It was effected by 
shoving the boat with setting poles up the most shal- 
low part of the current, for half a mile, before making 
for the shore. 

Falling into the current within a rnile of the falls, is 
considered fatal. Several accidents of this kind have 
happened ; and no one, (save in the instance mention- 
ed in a preceding page,) has ever reached the shore» 
Many bodies have been found below the falls — those 
that have fallen in the centre of the stream, without 
any external marks of injury ; and those that have 
fallen near the shore, much lacerated and disfigured. 
The latter has probably been occasioned by coming in 
contact with rocks in shallow water, before reaching 
thes cataract. It is but a few years since an Indian^ 
partially intoxicated, in attempting to cross the river 
near Chippewa, was forced near the rapids ; when 
^ finding all efforts to regain the shore unavailing, he lay 
^down in his canoe, and was soon plunged into the 
■ ^tremendous vortex below. He was never seen after- 
wards. 



* Trees marked 1765 and 1769,are still to he seen on 
the island. 



WELLAND CANAL. 275 

T'here are two large boarding establishments on the 
American side, in what is called the village of Man- 
chester. The Eagle Tavern kept by Gen. Whitney, is 
the oldest and is entitled to a full share of patron- 
age. The other more recently erected, is a handsome 
building with pleasant and airy apartments. The vil- 
lage was burnt by the British in 1813 ; but it has been 
rebuilt, and though small, is larger than it was previous 
to that event. 

In giving a general description of the Falls, we have, 
in crossing to the American side, diverged from our 
proposed route. While on the Canada shore, it is re- 
commended to tourists to visit the Deep Cut on the 
Welland canal, eight miles west of the Falls ; return; 
proceed down the Niagara river through Glueenston to 
Fort George or Newark ; cross over to Fort Niagara or 
Youngstown, and proceed up the river, through Lew- 
iston to Manchester. For a short excursion, there are 
many objects of attraction on this route, which are no- 
ticed hereafter. 

The Welland Canal unites the waters of Lake 
Erie and Ontario, and is constructed for sloops of 125 
tons burthen. The canal commences at Port Mait- 
land, at the mouth of the Grand river on Lake Erie, 40 
miles west of Buffalo, and follows the channel of that 
stream nearly a mile and a half, and thence up Broad 
creek nearly a mile, where the artificial channel com- 
mences by a cut of 10 miles through a marsh. It then 
proceeds down mill creek 2J miles until it intersects 
the Welland river, into which it descends by a lock of 
eight feet lift ; thence a towing path is constructed 
along the banks 10 miles — the marsh excavation from 
x2 



^76 WELLAWlr CAN'At. 

30 to 16 feet. From Welland river the canal runs in & 
northerly direction winding up a ravine C6 chains, hav- 
ing 8 or 10 feet cutting; where commences the deep 
cutting or dividing ridge, an almost abrupt height of 27 
feet above the canal bottom. It thence runs gradually 
to 56 feet 6 inches in a dis^tance of 100 chains ; thence 
descends to 30 feet in 28 chains, which as abruptly 
breaks oflT in another ravine ; whole distance through 
the deep cut 1 mile 54 chains ; average depth 44 feet. 
To the depth of from 12 to 18 feet from the surface, it 
is a compound of clay, mixed With sand, and below this 
a tenacious blue clay. From the termination of the 
deep cut to that part where the mountain descends, is 
a distance of 4 miles and 23 chains, to lock No. 1 as it 
is called, although it is properly lock No. 2, From 
lock No. 1 the canal continues in a ravine 53 chains, 
gradually descending by 4 locks of 22 feet width ; and 
thence for 1 mile and 55 chains it winds around the 
brow of a hill. There are 17 locks in this distance^ 
and 60,000 yards of rock excavation. From this place 
the canal enters another ravine to St, Catharine's, a 
distance of 2| miles, in which there are 12 locks. This 
may be termed the mountain descent, as in a distance 
of 4 miles and 72-^ chains from lock No. 1, there are 
32 locks, with a declination of 322 feet, 22 feet wide 
and 100 feet in the pool. From this to Lake Ontario, a 
distance of 5 miles, the canal is mostly in the bed of 
the Twelve Mile creek, There are three locks in this 
section, including the one at the harbor, each 32 feet 
wide and 125 feet long; and five positions are taken 
for dams, one of which is 23 feet high. 



Battle of queenston. 277 

The whole length of this canal is 435 miles, a little 
more than 19 of which are slack water ; the total 
amount of lockage 334 feet. 

The Deep Cut is considered the most gigantic artifi- 
cial work in America, if we except the Desague near 
Mexico ; and with the precipice of locks which descend 
the mountain ridge, forms altogether one of the most 
interesting improvements of the age. 

From the Falls on the Canada side to GIueenston 
the distance is 7 miles, over a good road which passes 
the former residence of the Duke of Richmond, since 
owned by Sir Peregrine Maitland. Glueenston lies on 
the bank of the Niagara, and has little in its appear- 
ance indicating a prosperous or thriving village. 

The battle ofQ,ueenslon, which was fought at this place, 
occurred on the 13th of Oct. 1812. Gen. Van Rens- 
selaer, who had command of the American troops at 
Lewiston,on the opposite side of the river, determined 
on crossing over and taking possession ofCtueenston 
heights. The crossing was effected before day light ; 
and the ascent, which was up a picecipitous ravine, ri- 
sing near 300 feet above the river, was accomplished 
amid the tire of the enemy from his breastworks on the 
heights. As the Americans approached, the British 
retreated to the village below ; where their comman- 
dant. Gen. Brock, in forming his lines to reascend the 
heiffhts, was mortally wounded by a random shot. His 
aid, Col. M'Donald, then took command and ascended 
the heights, where he was also womided mortally. 
The Americans continued in possession but a few 
hours, when they recrossed the river. The pickets and 
breast works, though in a state of decay, are still vis- 
ible. 



278 brock's monument. 

The spot on which Brock fell is pointed out to stran- 
gers. It was in a small field, since called Brock's lot ; 
and is reserved for the erection of a church at a future 
period. 

brock's monument 

Is on the heights, one fourth of a mile southwest of 
the village of GLueenston. It is composed of free stone ; 
and, excepting the base, is of a spiral form. It is a fine 
specimen of architecture ; and from its elevation, is 
seen for many miles around. Its height is 126 feet ; and 
the heights on which it is erected are 270 feet above 
the level of the Niagara river. The ascent to the top 
of the monument is by means of winding steps, 170 
in number. It is extremely fatiguing ; but the prospect 
afforded of the surrounding country, for 50 miles in ex- 
tent will richly repay the tourist for the time and trou- 
ble in visiting its pinnacle. The following inscription 
appears on the monument : 

" The Legislature of Upper Canada has dedicated 
this monument to the many civil and military services 
of the late Sir Isaac Brock, Knight, Commander of 
the most honorable Order of the Bath, Provincial Lieut. 
Governor and Major General, commanding his Majes- 
ty's forces therein. He fell in action on the 13th of 
October, 1812, honored and beloved by those whom he 
governed, and deplored by his Sovereign, to whose ser- 
vice his life had been devoted. His remains are depos- 
ited in this vault, as also lus aid-de-camp, Lieut. Colo- 
nel John M'Donald, who died of his wounds the 14th 
of October, 1812, received the day before in action." 



LEWISTON. 279 

Port George, or Newark, is 7 miles north of 
Q-ueenston, and is located at the entrance of the Niag- 
ara river into Lake Ontario. The village was burnt 
during the last war ; which event was followed by the 
burning of several frontier villages on the Ani'^rioan 
shore, as retaliatory. Fort George, near the village, is 
the most prominent, and perhaps the only object of in- 
terest presented. It is in a state of tolerable preserva- 
tion, and has generally since the war been occupied as 
a garrison by a small number of soldiers. The river is 
crossed in a horse boat, to 

YouNGSTOWN, containing from 40 to 50 houses, one 
mile north of which, and directly opposite Newark, is 
Fort Niagara.* It was built by the French in 1725,^ 
passed into British hands by the conquest of Canada, 
and was surrendered to the U. States in 1796. It was 
taken by the British by surprise during the last war, 
and abandoned on the restoration of peace. The works 
are now in a state of decay. 

Levviston is 7 miles south of Youngstown, and is 
directly opposite the village of Glueenston. It is loca- 
ted at the foot and termination of the Mountain Ridge, 
or alluvial u'ay, (noticed hereafter,) and at the head of 
navigation on the Niagara river. With the other fron- 
tier villages, it was laid in ruins during the late war, 
and was deserted by its inhabitants, from Dec. 1813, 
to April, 1815; but is now in a flourishing condition, 



* This is the place where the celebrated William 
Morgan was confined after his abduction. 



280 LEWISTON. 

and its building.? exhibit much taste and neatness. A 
ferry is estabhshed between tlais place and Glueenston. 
While standing on the lofty bank, the rapid motion of 
the river with its various eddies, are far from invitmg, 
and seem to forbid the idea of a pleasant passage: but 
these sensations are removed soon after entering the 
boat. It is carried down for a considerable distance 
with much rapidity, but Mdthout danger. Every ap- 
pearance confirms the supposition, that at this place the 
falls once poured their immense volumes of water, but 
by a constant abrasion of the cataract, have receded to 
their present position, 7 miles distant. 

Stages leave Lewistown every morning for Roches- 
ter, distant 80 miles, passing on the Ridge Road, or al- 
luvial wa}^,* and reach Rochester at evening. Stages 



* This ridge extends along the south shore of Lake 
Ontario, from the Genesee river to Niagara river, a dis- 
tance of about 80 miles. The road is handsomely arch- 
ed in the centre, and is generally from 4 to 8 rods wide. 
In some places it is elevated 120 or 130 feet above the 
level of the lake, from which it is distant from 6 to 10 
miles. The first 40 miles from Lewiston, of this natu- 
ral highway, is broken for a considerable extent, by log 
roads or causeways, bordered by impeiTious forests, 
occasionally relieved by the temporary huts of the re- 
cent settlers ; but the remaining distance is unusually 
level, and, M'ith some intermissions, bordered by a line 
of cultivation. It is generally believed that this was 
once the southern boundaiy of the lake, and that the 
ridge was occasioned by the action of the water. The 
gravel and smooth stones of which the ridge is com- 
posed, intermingled with a great variety of shells, leave 
little room to doubt the correctness of this opinion. It 
js a great natural curiosity, and should be tra-velWcJ 



devil's hole. 2S1 

also run to Lockport every clay, distant 20 miles, passing 
through the Tuscarora village, occupied by a tribe of 
Indians of that name.* 

In pursuing the route from Lewis ton to the Falls on 
the American side, the traveller soon begins to climb 
the height or mountain describing the difference of 'al- 
titude between Lakes Ontario and Erie. The ascent 
is somewhat precipitous, but is overcome without diffi- 
culty. At the distance of two miles, the top is gained, 
and affords an imposing prospect of the almost inter- 
minable expanse below. The course of the mighty 
Niagara is easily traced to its outlet : where, from their 
prominence, are distinctly seen, Forts Niagara and 
George. The waters of the distant lake and the sur- 
rounding plains are so charmingly picturesque, that the 
traveller withdraws reluctantly, even to participate in 
the enjo^^ment of scenes more sublime. Three and a 
half miles from Lewiston is what is called the 

Devil's Hole, a most terrific gulf, formed by a 
chasm in the eastern bank of the Niagara, 150 or 200 
feet deep. An angle of this gulph is within a few feet 



over by the tourist in going to or returning from the 
Falls. 

* Doct. SpafTord, in his Gazeteer of New- York, re- 
marks, that this tribe came from North Carolina about 
1712, and joined the confederacy of the Five Nations, 
themselves making the Sixth. They still hold an in- 
terest in a very large and valuable tract of land in N. 
Carolina, which w\\\ not be extinct before A. D. 1911. 
They also own a very considerable tract of land in this 
state, deeded to them by the Holland Compnny. 



282 LAKE ONTARIO. 

of the road ; affording to the passing traveller, without 
alighting, an opportunity of looking into the yawning 
abyss beneath. During the French war, a detachment 
of the British army, whilst retreating from Schlosser in 
the night, before a superior force of French and Indians, 
were destroyed at this place. Officers, soldiers, wo- 
men and children, with their horses, waffgons, baggage, 
&c. were all precipitated down the gulph. Those who 
were not drowned in the river were dashed in pieces on 
the naked rocks ! 

The Whirlpool is one mile farther south. It is 
formed by a short turn in the river, and can be viewed 
on either side : though the best view, connected with 
the rapids, is on the American shore. One mile far- 
ther, is a 

SiTLPHER Spring, used principally for bathing. 

The American Fall at Manchester, is a mile and a 
half farther, and has been already noticed in this work. 

LAKE ONTARIO. 

This lake is in length 171 miles, and in circumference 
467. In many places its depth has not been ascertain- 
ed. In the middle a line of 350 fathoms has been let 
down without finding bottom. Of the many islands 
which this lake contains, the principal is Grand Isle, 
opposite to Kingston. At this place the lake is about 
10 miles in width, and from thence it gradually con- 
tracts until it reaches Brockville, a distance of about 
50 miles, where its width is not over 2 miles. About 
40 miles of this distance is filled with a continued clus- 



ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL. 283 

ter of small islands, which from their number have 
been distinguished by the name of the Thousand Is- 
lands. 

Though inferior in extent to the remaining four great 
western lakes, Ontario is far from being the least inter- 
esting. The north-east shore of the lake consists prin- 
cipally of low land, and is in many places marshy. On 
the north and north-west it is more elevated, and grad- 
ually subsides towards the south. The margin of the 
lake is generally bordered by thick forests, through 
which are occasionally seen little settlements surround- 
ed with rich fields of cultivation, terminated by lofty 
ridges of land here and there assuming the character of 
mountains. Some of the highest elevations of land are 
the cliffs of Torrento, the Devil's Nose, and the Fifty 
Mile Hill. The principal rivers which empty into the 
lake on the south, are the Genesee and Oswego. 
York, Kingston and Sackett's Harbor, all situated on 
the borders of the lake, are well known in connection 
with the history of the late war. 

ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL. 

British side. — A boat leaves Niagara for Prescott, on 
Lake Ontario, and vice versa, four times a week, from 
whence stages leave for Montreal six times a week.* 
A steam-boat also commenced running daily in 1833 
between Prescott and the head of the Long Salt Rapids, 
within twelve miles of Cornwall, overcoming without 
difficulty a navigation of the Rapide Plat and the Ga- 

* A boat also plies daily between Niagara and York, 



284 ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL. 

loups, and thus reducing the land carriage between Ni- 
agara and (Quebec to thirfAj seven miles. The route 
from Niagara to Montreal is generally performed in 
three days, as follows : 

Coaches leave the Falls every day for Distance. Fare. 
Niagara, 14 $1 00 

The Steamer Great Britain, leaves 
Niagara every five days, the Alciope, eve- 
ry Saturday evening, the J^iagara every 
Monday evening at 6 o'clock, and the 
Q,ueenston every Tuesday morning at 9 
o'clock, for Kingston, Brockville, and 
Prescott, (board included,) 250 8 00 

The Upper Canada line of Coaches* 



* Instead of the coaches and steam boat line here 
mentioned, another, which reduces the land carriage to 
Montreal to 37 miles, noticed in a previous page, can be 
taken. It is established daily (except Sunday) as fol- 
lows : 

By steam boat. Miles. 

From Prescott to Dickinson's Landing, 38 

Bij coaches. 

" Dickinson's Landing to Cornwall, 12 

By steam boat. 
" Cornwall to Coteau du Lac, via St. Regis 

Indian Village, 41 

By coaches. 

*' Coteau du Lac to the Cascades, 16 

By steam boat. 

" the Cascades to Lachine, 24 

By coaches. 
" Lachine to Montreal, «... 9 

140 



FORT NIAGARA. 285 

and Steam boats leaves Prescott daily, Distance. Fare, 
except Saturday and Sunday, for Mon- 
treal in the following manner : Prescott 

to Cornwall, by land, 50 

Cornwall to Coteau du Lac, via St. Re- 
gis Indian Village, by steam boat,. . .41 
Coteau du Lac to Cascades, by land, 16 
Cascades to Lachine,by steam boat, 24 
Lachine to Montreal, by land, 9 1 50 7 00 

TOTAL. MILES, 414 $16 00 

N 

American side. — Two new and splendid boats, the 
United States and Osw^ego, ply between Lewiston and 
Ogdensburgh, a distance of 268 miles, making a semi- 
weekly line between the two places, and touch on the 
route, at Fort Niagara, Genesee river, Oswego, Sack- 
et's Harbor, Cape Vincent, French Creek and Morris- 
town. From Ogdensburgh, a stage is generally taken 
for Montreal ; though passage boats, which descend 
as far as Lachine, are sometimes preferred. 

From Lewiston to Montreal is 3S5 miles, and the in-< 
terv'ening distances are estimated as follows : 



Miles. 

Fort Niagara, 7 

Genesee River, 74 

Great Sod us Bay, .. .. 35 

Oswego River, 28 

Sack el's Harbor, 40 

Cape Vincent, 20 

Morristown, 50 

Fort Niagara, 7 miles from Lewiston. {See pag 
279.) 



Miles. 

Ogdensburgh, 12 

Galloup Islands, 5 

Hamilton, 19 

St. Regis, 35 

La Chine, 53 

Montreal, 7 



286 CHARLOTTE — OSWEGO. 

Charlotte, at the mouth of the Genesee river, 74 
miles from Lewiston, is a port of entry where there is 
a light house, and the commencement of extensive piers 
building by the United States, for improving the navi- 
gation. The river is navigable to the Carthage falls,* 
4 miles ; from thence to Rochester* is 2 miles ; to 
which place passengers can always be conveyed by 
rail road carriages in readiness on the arrival of the 
boat. 

Ctreat Sodus Bay, 35 miles. This embraces East- 
Port and Little Sodus Bays, and has three islands of 
considerable size. The whole circumference of the 
bay, with its coves and points, is about 15 miles. Its 
waters arc deep and clear, and its shores have several 
elegant sites for buildings. 

Oswego, 28 miles. It is here that the Oswego canal, 
38 miles in length, including 20 miles of the Oswego 
river, unites with the Erie ; thus joining the w^aters of" 
Lake Ontario with the Hudson. There is a daily line 
of packet boats running from Utica to Oswego, passing 
from Syracuse to Oswego by day light, affording the 
traveller an opportunity of viewing a great variety of^ 
sceneiy and an interesting part of the western canal 
navigation. These boats are new, of the largest di- 
mensions, and in the latest style of accommodation. 
On this route, 12 miles soutJi of Oswego, the traveller 
passes the flourishing village of Fulton, at which place 
there are numerous mills, and also a fall of some beau- 



* For a description of these places, sec pages 246 to 
252. 



OSWEGO, §S7 

tj; Oswego is situated on either shore of the river. 
Although it has long been noted in the historic page of 
our countrj^, still it may be said to have taken its rise 
since 1826, the year in vvhicii the state sales of surplus 
waters from the canal were rnadc. The village owes 
much of its importance, not only to the numerous mills 
and manufactories for which its location is extremely 
eligible, being unsurpassed by anyplace in the country 
for hydraulic power, but also to the extensive commer- 
cial intercourse that it has with the Canadiis and the 
western lakes. At the mouth of the river jutting into 
the lake, the U. S. government have erected a pier or 
mole at the expense of $100,000, rendering the harbor 
the safest and best on the American shore. To the 
party of pleasure for the Falls, a route from Syracuse 
(see p. 240) to Oswego and from thence by steam boat 
direct to Niagara will always prove interesting, without 
the fatigues attendant on stage travelhng. 

The following steam boats now visit the port of Os- 
wego in their respective trips between the Niagara riv- 
er and Ogdensburgh : The United States, of Ogdens- 
burgh, twice a week ; the Oswego, of Oswego, do. do. j 
the Great Britain, of Glueenston, U. C. once a week, 
on her route to Prescott from Niagara ; the Constitu- 
tion, of Coburg, U. C. between Coburgh, the Genesee 
river and Oswego, twice a week ; the William Avery, 
of Sacket's Harbor, between Oswego, Sacket's Har- 
bor, and Kingston, U, C. three times a week ; the 
Charles Carroll, irregular, from Oswego to the other 
ports on the lake. 

There is also a daily steam boat communication be- 
tween Oswego and Kingston, passage from 4 to 6 
t2 



288 sacket's harbor. 

hours. From Kingston there is also a daily steam boa^ 
communication with all the principal ports on the lake, 

A daily line of stages leaves Oswego for Utica, Au-- 
burn, Pulaski, Sacket's Harbor, and Watertown, an(f- 
a tri-weekly line for Rochester. 

Independent of the above inducements to the tourist 
to visit Oswego, in order to facilitate his jaunt, it also' 
claims his attention and notice on account of its anti-- 
quity and martial fame. Still are to be seen two forts' 
erected during the French war, which were besieged by 
Gen. Montcalm in 1756, and also one built during the 
revolution — fit subjects of contemplation and regard to 
the antiquary and the patriot. 

Among the public buildings in the villag-e, are a 
court house, 4 churches, a bank and an academy. The 
population is about 4000. 

The Welland House is one of the largest and best 
public establishments in the state. From its upper sto- 
ry an extensive and uninterrupted view is had of the 
lake, which is here 60 miles broad. 

Sacket's Har.eor, 40 miles. This was an import- 
ant military and naval station during the last war. 
The Barracks are situate about 400 j-ards north-easter- 
ly of the village on the shore. They are a solid range 
of stone buildings, and add much to the appearance of 
the place. Two forts erected during the war are now 
in ruins. On Navy-Point, which forms the harbor, 
there is a large ship of war on the stocks ; but which, 
probably, will never be finished. 



CAPE VINCENT — OGDENSBtRGH, 289 

Cape Vincent, 20 miles. Kingston in Upper Can- 
^ada, is on the opposite side of the lake, 11 miles disAnt, 
with Grand Island intervening. 

MoRRisToWN, 50 miles. The river here is but a mile 
and a quarter wide, on the opposite side of v/hich is 
the village of Brockville. 

OoDENSBURGH, which terminates the passage of the 
steam-boat, is 12 miles farther, and is situated on the 
east side of the Osvvegatche river, at its confluence with 
the St. Lawrence. This is a thriving village, contain- 
ing about 250 houses, and a population of about 2000 
inhabitants. A military fortification, consisting of two 
stone buildings and a number of wooden barracks was 
formerly erected here by the British government, but 
was ceded to the United States in 1796. 

A regular stage leaves Ogdensburgh three times a 
week for Plattsburgh ; from whence a steam-boat can 
be taken on Lake Champlain for St. John's or White- 
hall. 

Stages also arrive and depart twice a week, to and 
from Montreal ; and by crossing the river, a stage or 
steam-boat can be taken at Prescott for that place dai- 
ly. Passage boats, also, leave Ogdensburgh about ev- 
ery day, and descend the river as far as La Chine, 7 
miles above Montreal, in 3 days. The boats are usu- 
ally furnished with every necessary implement for their 
good management, and with skilful pilots. The latter 
are more particularly requisite, as the current of the St. 
Lawrence is generally very rapid, and obstructed by 
numerous shoals and islands, which, by an inexperienc- 
ed navigator, could not without difficulty be avoided. 



290 RIVER ST. LA1VRENCE. 

The principal rapids are three in number — the Longue 
Sault, the Rapids of the Cedars* and the Cascades of 
St. Louis. The first of these are 9 miles in length, and 
are usually passed in 20 minutes, which is at the rate 
of 27 miles an hour. The Rapids of the Cedars ter- 
minate about 3 miles from the Cascades, which, after a 
broken course of about 2 miles, pour their foaming wa- 
ters into Lake St. Louis. Lake St. Francis, on the St, 
Lawrence, is 25 miles long, and its greatest breadth 15. 
The borders of the lake are so low that they can scarce- 
ly be distinguished in passing along its centre. At the 
northern extremity of Lake St. Francis is situated the 
village of St. Regis, through which passes the bounda- 
ry line between the Canada s and the United States. 

The banks of the St. Lawrence exhibit a country re- 
markably fertile, and in many places under good culti- 
\'ation. 

The first settlements in this region commenced in 
1783, and though about 50 years only have elapsed, it 
now exhibits many of the embellishments incident to a 
numerous population and successful improvement. The 
perpetual varying scenery along its banks, occasionally 
diversified with smiling fields aud flourishing villages, 
together with the islands and rapids of the St. Law- 

* It was at this place that Gen. Amherst's brigade of 
300 men, coming to attack Canada, were lost. The 
French at Montreal received the first intelligence of the 
invasion. l)y the dead bodies floating past the town. 
The pilot -\\ ho conducted their first batleaux conniiitted 
an error by running into the wrong channel, and the 
other battcaux following close, all were involved in the 
same destruction. 



MONTREAL, 291 

renoe, present a succession of novelties with which the 
traveller cannot fail to be gratified. 

Gallop Islands, 5 miles from Ogdensburgh. The 
river is here divided into two currents, the commence- 
ment of the great rapids beloAV. From these rapids the 
river descends 231 feet in 280 miles. On Stoney Isl- 
and (one of the Gallop cluster) the French had a strong 
fortress, which was taken and demolished by Gen. Am- 
herst, in 1760. 

St. Regis, 54 miles, is a village occupied by a tribe 
of Indians of that name, who have a reservation of land 
here of considerable extent. One of their chiefs, aged 
about 90, remarked to a gentleman of our acquaintance 
a short time since, that he visited the High Rock Spring 
at Saratoga nearly 70 years ago, ivhen the loater flowed 
over the top of the aperlxire."^ 

La CHINE, 53 miles. From thence to Montreal, which 
is 7 miles farther, the river road is generall)'^ preferred ; 
from which a charming view of the rapids and of sever- 
al islands is enjoyed. It also crosses the Lachine canal. 

MONTREAL. 

Is situated on the south side of the island of the same 
name, 131 miles from Ogdensburgh, and 170 from due- 
bee. The length of the island is 30 miles, its mean 
breadth 7, and its circumference about 70. The city 
extends along the St. Lawrence, about 3 miles in length 



* No one living near the Spring remembers to have 
seen the watet rise higher than within 8 or 10 inches of 
the top of the rock. At present it is considerably lower. 



ii92 MONTREAL. 

and half a mile in Midth. The buildings are mostly 
constructed of stone, and arranged on regularly dispos- 
ed but narrow streets. A stone wall formerly encircled 
the city, which, by the sanction of the government, was 
some years ago totally demolished. Montreal is di- 
vided into the upper aud lower towns. The latter of 
these contains the Hotel Dieu, founded in 1644, and 
under a superior and thirty nuns, whose occupation is 
to administer relief to the sick, who are received into 
that hospital. The French government formerly con- 
tributed to the support of this institution ; but since the 
revolution which occasioned the loss of its principal 
funds, then vested in Paris, its resources have been 
confined to the avails of some property in land. The 
upper town contains the Cathedral, the English Church, 
the Seminary, the Convent of Recollets, and that of the 
Sisters of Notre Dame. The general hospital, or Con- 
vent of the Grey Sisters, is situated on the banks of the 
St. Lawrence, a little distance from the town, from 
which it is separated by a small rivulet. This institu- 
tion was established in 1753, and is under the manaffe- 
ment of a superior and 19 nuns. 

Some of the public buildings are beautiful. Among 
these, the new Catholic Church, in grandeur, capacious- 
ness, style and decoration, is probably not exceeded by 
any edifice in America. It is 255 feet long and 34 feet 
wide, and is sufficiently capacious to hold 10.000 per- 
sons. 

JVeZson's Monument, near the Market Place, is an ob- 
ject also meriting an accurate survey. 

The JMuseum, belonging to the Society ofj^atural His- 
tory, contains a numerous assemblage of indigenous 



MONTREAL. 293 

and exotic specimens, an examination of which will 
prove highly interesting to visitors of taste and science. 
A visit to the Nunneries can generally be effected 
without difficulty ; though a trifling purchase of some 
of the manufactures of the nuns is generally expected. 
The College is a large stone edifice, 3 stories high, 
and has a spacious yard on the south, adjoining to 
which is a beautiful garden. It generally contains 
about 300 sudents, and the terms of tuition are 80 dol- 
lars per annum. Connected with the college there is 
also a preparatory school, under excellent regulations. 
The Parade is a beautiful public ground, on which 
the troops are usually drilled. 

The prevaiUng rehgion here, as well as at Gluebec, is 
ihe Roman Catholic. The clergy derive a revenue from 
grants of land made to them under the ancient regime, 
and from contributions ordained by the church. Be- 
sides these, a principal source of revenue is from the 
fines for ahenation, which amount to about 8 per cent., 
paid by the purchaser of real estate, every time the 
same is sold, and which extends to sales of all real es- 
tates in the seignory or island of Montreal. 

The city, including its suburbs, contains rising of 
30,000 inhabitants. 

The Mountain of Montreal, from which the city takes 
its name, rises about 2^ miles distant. It is elevated 
700 feet above the level of the river, and extends from 
north to south 2 miles. This spot has already been se- 
lected for the residence. of some private gentlemen, 
whose elegant white mansions appear beautiful in con- 
trast with the surrounding foliage. The island of St, 
Helena, immediately opposite the city, is a delightful 



294 LACHINE — VARENXES. 

little spot, from whence is had a fine view of Montreal, 
with its lofty mountain in the back ground, the settle- 
ment of Longueil, St. Lambert and La Prairie de la 
Madalene, on the east side of the river, and the. waters 
of the St. Lawrence dashing over the rocks of Lachine, 
and sweeping their course around a variety of islands. 

The principal public houses in the city are. Masonic 
Hall, in the north part ; Goodenough's, St. Paul street j 
and Mansion House, do. 

The climate of Montreal is salubrious, and the city 
had generally been free of epidemic diseases until the 
summer of 1832, when it suffered severely from the rav- 
ages of the Asiatic Cholera. It first made its appear- 
ance in the early part of June, and in two months 
swept ofr2000 emigrants and inhabitants. 

EXCURSIONS. 

Lachine, 9 miles from Montreal, with which it is 
connected by a canal, is a place of considerable resort. 
By taking the river road, a view^ is obtained of the Rap- 
ids, Nuns' and Heron Islands, and the Indian village of 
Caughnawaga. 

Varennes. a stage and steam-boat leave Montreal 
for Varennes, a beautiful village 1 5 miles distant, every 
morning and afternoon, returning the ensuing day. 
The lines of steam-boats plying daily between Mon- 
treal and Gluebec, also touch, both ascending and de- 
scending, to receive and land passengers. From the 
Varennes Spring Hotel, located in the village, is one of 
the most interesting views in North America, com- 
manding in front the mountainous land on the north 
shoi-e of the St. Lawrence ; to the west, the city and 



RIDEAU CANAL. 295 

island of Montreal, the island and fortification of St. 
Helens, and the winding course of the river ; and on 
the east a most picturesque group of islands, with their 
varied channels ; while the rear presents the most fer- 
tile and highly cultivated district in Lower Canada, 
with the magnificent mountains of Chambly and Beloil 
in the distance. The Hotel, as a building, is capacious 
and furnished in a style of superior neatness and ele- 
gance. 

The Springs are one mile from the village, and are 
approached by a road on the bank of the St. Lawrence, 
forming a delightful promenade, where an extensive 
and commodious bath house has been erected. By an 
analysis of the waters, they prove to be possessed of 
valuable medicinal qualities, and are free from substan- 
ces which can be deemed deleterious. Varennes and 
its vicinity, therefore, present to those travelling in 
pursuit of health and pleasure, many attractions. 

The RiDEAU Canal. This work, whicii has been 
made at the expense of Great Britain, forms a naviga- 
ble communication between Lake Ontario and the Ot- 
towa or Grand River, which empties into the St. Law- 
rence opposite Montreal. The object of its construc- 
tion has been to secure, in time of war, the transporta- 
tion of military stores, &c. by an interior route, less ex- 
posed to the U. States, and practicable in lake vessels 
of 125 tons. The junction of the Rideau river with the 
Ottowa, which is the lower extremity of the canal, is 
] 20 miles from Montreal ; and from Kingston, near 
where the canal enters Lake Ontario, it is 160 miles by 
water, and 130 by land. The discharge of the Rideau 
into the Otiowa, is marked by an extensive cove on the 



296 RIDEAU CANAL. 

right bank of the latter river, in a ^lley existing be- 
tween the falls of the Chaudiere and Rideau. This 
point appears to have been reserved by nature for the 
purpose to which it is adapted ; and, indeed, bears eve- 
ry characteristic, both as to its banks and valley, of 
having been formerly the bed of the Rideau. The ele- 
vation of the mouth of the canal above the level of the 
sea is estimated at 1 10 feet, while it is considered to be 
283 feet below the summit level on " Rideau Lake," 
and 129 below the level of Lake Ontario, at Kingston. 

Directly above the mouth of the canal, may be seen 
the beatiful and magnificent cataract of the Chaudiere. 
It consists of a series of falls, more or less extensive, 
and amounting in all to 31 1 feet perpendicular. But 
that which stands most prominent to view, and gives an 
appearance of grandeur to the whole, is at the broadest 
channel of the river, and known by the name of the Grande 
Chaudiere, or Big Kettle, from the peculiar formation of 
the cauldron into which the waters fall. This forma- 
tion consists of a hard laminated lime-stone, in horizon- 
tal strata, and worn into its present horse-shoe shape 
by the constant abrasion of the rolling water over its 
surface. The depth of the cauldron is said to be over 
three hundred feet — at least, a sounding line of that 
length could not be made to touch bottom. 

Next in interest to these may be mentioned the cata- 
ract of the Rideau, situated at the mouth of the river, 
where its dark green w'aters fall from an eminence of 
37 feet, in a single unbroken sheet. The river finds its 
source in the Rideau Lake, 85 miles from the Ottowa, 
but is not occupied as the bed of the canal till about 6 
miles above its entrance, it having been found more 



RIDEAU CANAL 297 

expedient to make use of the natural valley and bay al- 
ready alluded to. 

At this point it became necessary, in consequence of 
the rugged and precipitate nature of the banks of the 
Otto wa, to overcome the difFerence of level between the 
river and canal by the construction of a series of locks 
eight in number, and each rising ten feet, giving an ag- 
gregate of eighty feet perpendicular rise ; constructed 
in a liberal workmanlike manner, and presenting an el- 
egant and commanding appearance. The estimated 
cost was £45,700. In the vicinity of the locks are two 
spacious basins for the reception of boats ; over one of 
which there is a stone arch, connecting Upper and 
Lower Bytown. 

About seventy miles of the route passes through ei- 
ther extensive lakes with bold and rocky shores, or soft 
swampy meadows, where good foundations were unat- 
tainable, save at great additional expense. Hence it 
became necessary to do away with the ordinary towing- 
path, and enlarge the canal to a surface of 48 feet, with 
a depth of 5 feet throughout, to admit the passage of 
steamboats from one extremity to the other. 

The towns of Upper and Lower By, so named after 
the commandant of engineers, Lieut, Col. John By, un- 
der whose superintendence the works were construct- 
ed, have already assumed a character and importance 
whicli, when their brief existence is taken into conside- 
ration, is truly marvellous. The towns already contain, 
in addition to their numerous dwelling-hosues, two 
large store-houses for the use of the Ordinance and 
Commissariat Departments ; three substantial build- 
ings for the accommodation of the troops, erected on, 



298 UIDEAU CANAL. 

the highest eminence, so as to command both the river 
and canal ; an at a short distance and excellent mili- 
tary hospital. 

In the vicinity may also be seen, in the " Union 
Bridge," the execution of one of the most daring plans 
ever conceived. It connects Upper with Lower Cana- 
da, and is thrown directly ever the falls of the Chau- 
dicre, taking advantage of the numerous rocky islands 
embraced by the diverging liranches of the river at this 
place ; and forming altogether a most magnificent and 
imposing specimen of civil architecture. The bridge 
is composed'of six distinct arches, two of stone and four 
of wood, stretching from island to island with various 
spans, as circumstances required ; and forming an ag- 
gregate length of bridge-way of 781 feet. Takingleave 
of Bytow n and its vicinity, and proceeding along the 
line until it strikes the river, little of interest occurs, 
saving a singular break in an interesting ridge of land, 
extending for several miles at an average depth of about 
thirty-five feet. It is known under the name of the 
" Notch in the Mountain," and affords an opportune 
passage for the canal, which would otherwise, in order 
to pass it, have had to encounter a heavy excavation. 

At the point where the canal opters the channel of 
the river, are found strong rapids, confined on one side 
by a high clay bank, and on the other by a rocky shore. 
To overcome the fall existing here, which is about 30 
feet, it was necessary to drown the rapids by the erec- 
tion of a large dam, and surmount the elevation by 
three locks. This dam backs the water as far as the 
^* Black Rapids" — to which point, and indeed thence all 
the way to its source in the "Rideau Lake," the chan- 



RIDEAU CANAL. 299 

nel of the river continues to be used. The Rideau, like 
other rivers in Canada, is a combination of rapids and 
long sheets of still water, alternately intervening, and 
to overcome which it is ever necessary to have recourse 
to locks and dams. There are fourteen rapids between 
Bytown and the Rideau Lake, which are destroyed by 
as many dams, and twenty locks of various lifts, amount- 
ing in all to 283 feet. 

The " Rideau Lake," which is the proper summit of 
the canal, is a beautiful expanse of clear green water, 
30 miles long and 12 broad, surrounded on all sides by 
bold, rocky, and precipitous hanks. The only inter- 
ruptions which the navigation encounters across this 
lake are at " Oliver's Ferry" and the " Rideau Nar- 
rows," where considerable extra expense was incurred 
to overcome the currents there created by the contrac- 
tion of the waters. 

Continuing the use of the Rideau waters for the 
space of 45 miles on the summit level of the route, its 
course finally bends toward the *' Cataraqui River," 
which has an outlet in Lake Ontario near Kingston. 
An excavation of 10 feet for the distance of a mile and 
a half across the isthmus, existing between the "Ri- 
deau" and " Mud" lakes, was necessary to effect this 
object. The latter lalfe is 3^ feet below the level ofthe 
Rideau, and has a length of 12 miles, with an average 
breadth of 10, studded all over with innumerable small 
islands, which give it quite a picturesque appearance. 
It is intended eventually to raise the waters to the lev- 
el ofthe summit lake. 

Leaving this lake the canal enters the " Indian," and 
thence instead of making the long detour of the river, 
z2 



300 RIDEAU CANAL. 

encounters a shallov,' cut, by which, in a more direct 
line, the distance is considerably shortened. Thence 
following the course of the "Cataraqui" to within 55 
miles of Kingston, a dam is met with, backing the wa- 
ter as far as the last mentioned lake. The rapids con- 
necting this with " Davis' Lake," on the right side of 
the river, are surmounted by dams and locks, so that 
the navigation which was before hazardous, is now per- 
fectly safe. 

Again, following the course of the " Cataraqui River" 
for the further distance of 8 miles, and successively 
passing " Davis" and " Opinicon" lakes, together with 
their intervening rapids, surmounted as usual by a dam 
and lock, the tourist arrives at a. point called " Jones' 
Falls," 35 miles from Kingston. These falls descend 
61 feet within the mile, and connect "Opinicon Lake," 
with " Cranberry Marsh," Avhere the river holds its 
course through a narrow rocky ravine. This fall is 
overcome by a dam and six locks. Thence, passing 
three more smaller rapids, with their customary works, 
the line at length reaches " Kingston Mills," where the 
Cataraqui empties itself into the Kingston Bay, a part 
of Lake Ontario, and 5 miles distant fi-om Kingston. 
This is the upper extremity of the canal on the Canada 
side, and is terminated at its junction with Lake Onta- 
rio by the erection of four locks of nine feet each. 

The entire cost of this canal, which with the Welland 
canal (heretofore noticed) forms a chain of internal 
communication between Halifax and the Gulf of Mex- 
ico, was rising of £600,000. 



^RCM MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. 301 

FROM MONTREAL TO Q,UEBEC 170 MILES. 

The St. Lawrence from Montreal to Cluebec is nav* 
igated by a number of excellent steam-boats, and the 
passage between the two cities is deUghtful. A large 
majority of the inhabitants of Lower Canada are crowd- 
ed together near the shores of the St. Lawrence, and 
few interruptions of forest land intervene in the whole 
distance between the two principal cities. The dwell- 
ings and cultivated grounds are so frequent and con- 
tinuous, that each side of the river, in fact, becomes al- 
most an unbroken street ; with groups of houses in the 
vicinity of the several churches, which are erected gen- 
erally in sight of the passing steam-boat, except onLsike 
St. Peter. The churches are from six to nine miles 
distant from each other, and upwards of twenty in num- 
ber, forming, many of them, prominent objects to give 
embellishment and charm to the novel and otherwise 
very attractive scenery. All travellers sleep one night 
at least on board the steam-boat while journeying be- 
tween the two cities ; and it is recommended that they 
should arrange the hour of departure from Gluebec, 
(which is always at low water) so that they may view 
by day-light that part of the river which had been be- 
fore passed in the night. A journey to Cluebec and 
back again, which a few years since was the labor 
of some weeks, may now be accomphshed, by means 
of steam-boats, in less than three days. The distance 
between the two cities is 170 miles — fare, $4. 

From Montreal, the boat first passes near the Fort 
on St. Helen's Island and soon enters the rapids of 
St. Mary ; in returning up which, steam-boats are often 



302 WILLIAM HENRT — LAKE ST. PETEll. 

drawn by cattle. Proceeding down the river, the vil- 
lage ofLongueiljLonguePointe, Vercheres, Varennes, 
Point aux Trembles, Contrecoeur, Repentigny, St. Sul- 
pice, La Morage, Berthier and Machiche are succes- 
sively passed, before reaching the town oi 

William Henry, which is 40 miles from Montreal. 
It stands on the site of an old fort, built in 1665, on 
the right bank of the river Sore!, at its confluence with 
the St. Lawrence. The present tov/n w^as commenc- 
ed in 1785. It is regularly laid out with streets, cross- 
ing each other at right angle?, leaving a space in the 
centre about 500 feet square. The number of dwell- 
ings does not exceed 200, and its population 2000. 
Near the town is a seat which was formerly the resi- 
dence of the Governor General of Canada, during the 
summer months. Opposite the town, the river Sorel 
is 250 yards broad, and is navigable for vessels of 150 
tons, for twelve or fourteen miles. On this river, which 
unites the waters "of Lake Champlain with the St. Law- 
rence, are two considerable forts, the one at St. John's 
and the other at Chambly. Sorel was occupied in 
May, 177G, by a part of the American army, under 
General Thomas, on their retreat from Gluebec. 

Lake St. Peter, some miles below the town of Sorel, 
is formed by an expansion of the river St. Lawrence, to 
15 or 20 miles in width, and 21 in length. The waters 
of the lake have but little current, and are from 8 to 11 
feet deep. At the upper end of the lake a variety of 
small islands arc interspersed, which are the only ones 
that occur in the St. Lawrence till you reach the island 
of Orleans, a distance of 1 17 miles. On the north side 
of this lake is the town of 



THREE RIVEUS. 303 

Three Rivers, at the mouth of the St. Maurice, 
%vhich is divided by two small islands into three branch- 
es. This town was formerly the seat of the Colonial 
Government, and is now considered the third in im- 
portance in the Province. It contains about 400 houses, 
including a Roman Catholic and an Episcopal church, 
and a Convent of Ursulines — also the barracks former- 
ly occupied by the governor, during the French regime- 
The number of inhabitants is estimated at 3000. Some 
miles up the St. Maurice are the celebrated falls of 
Shawinnegame, a beautiful cataract of about 100 feet 
descent. 

Seven miles below Three Rivers, the Richelieu rapids 
commence. The river is compressed within less than 
half a mile in width, and the water moves with great 
velocity for three or four miles ; but being deep and 
the cui'rent unbroken, except at the shores, the descent 
is made by steam-boats without danger, except in the 
night, when a descent is never attempted. 

The scenery of the St. Lawrence is occasionally re- 
lieved by the prospect of the distant mountains, the 
highest of which does not exceed 1000 feet, but rising 
in the back ground of the cultivated vales along the 
borders of the river, give an additional degree of beauty 
and novelty to many of its landscapes. The alternate 
variety of the waters of the St. Lawrence, now repos- 
ing in stillness on the bosom of an expanded lake, and 
now rushing with the rapidity of a cataract, added to 
the pleasing effect of the landscape scenery, afford an 
agreeable repast to the tourist, until he reaches the 
classic scenes of auebec. Soon after leaving Cape 
Eouge, and the little village of St. Nicholas, near the 



304 QUEBEC. 

mouth of the Chaudiere river, the towers and citadel of 
this famous city open to view, situated on a rock of 345 
feet in height, called Cape Diamond, from the gem-like 
quality of the chrystals which are found intermingled 
with tlae granite benenth its surface. In approaching 
the city, you pass Sillcry River and Cove, and Wolfe's 
Cove, where he landed his army to gain the heights 
of Abraham, about I5 miles from Ciuebec. Point Levi 
appears on the right, a rocky precipice, covered with 
white dwellings, and commanding the citadel of Glue- 
bee from the opposite shore. 

QUEBEC* 

Is situated upon a high peninsular point of land, ai 
the confluence of the Rivers St. Lawrence and St. 
Charles, the junction of wluch forms a capacious and 
beautiful bay and harbom-. 

From the New Exchange at the extremity of the 
point on the north-east, the limits of the city jurisdic- 
tion extend in a direct line about north-west to a bend 
in the St. Charles River, near the General Hospital. 
On the St. Lawrence River the south-M^est point of the 
Banlieu is about oqai-distant from the Exchange, the 
whole plat approximating to atri.ingle, the longest side 
of which passes a short distance to the west of the Mar- 
tello Towers, measuring one mile and five furlongs or 
2860 yards from the St. Charles to the St. Lawrence. 



* For a description of this place, the writer is princi- 
pally indebted to the " Picture of Gluebec," recently 
published in that city. 



QUEBEC, 305 

A straight line drawn from one river to the other, at 
the Barrier on the south and west, is rather more than 
a mile in length, and the whole wall is two miles and 
three quarters in circuit ; but including the Citadel, the 
Esplanade, the different large gardens, and other va- 
cant spaces, a considerable proportion of the interior 
area within the fortification remains unoccupied for 
buildings. 

The city and environs are thus subdivided : That 
part which is within the walls is called the Upper 
Town, and can be approached solely by five gates. On 
the eastern side of the Cape towards the St. Lawrence, 
there is only one avenue to enter it, by a circuitous 
steep hill, through Prescott Gate ; which is the chief 
thoroughfare for all the commercial business of the 
port, especially during the navigable season, and then 
Mountain street, as this route is named, presents the 
appearance of a crowded and active population. On 
the north of the city, and where the promontory has 
considerably declined in height, there are two entran- 
ces — Hope Gate, not far from the eastern extremity of 
the rampart, and Palace Gate adjoining the Armoury 
and the Artillery Barracks. These gates are on that 
side of the city which is washed by the St. Charles. 
From the land there are two avenues to the interior of 
the fortifications : that to the east is known as the St. 
Louis Gate, which conducts by a beautiful road to the 
Plains of Abraham ; the other is at the end of St. John 
street, and thence denominated St. Johns's Gate. This 
!s the route through which the chief part of the country 
trade passes. 



306 QUEBEC. 

The long street from the termination of the Banheu 
on the south-west, upon the St. Lawrence, skirting the 
Cape round to the Wood Yard belonging to the Gov- 
ernment, including Mountain street to tlie Prescott 
Gate, and all the other shorter streets between the hill 
and the river, are generally denominated the Lower 
Town. The portion between the road outside of the 
Gate of St. Louis and that of St. John street, to the 
line of the Banlieu, is called the suburbs of St. Louis. 
From St. John street northerly to the Cote St. Gene- 
vieve, and returning to the end of the Banlieu, all the 
buildings are i)icluded in the St. John suburbs ; and 
the large district extending from the Wood Yard along 
by the foot of the hill to the western extremity of the 
Banlieu, and bounded on the north-west by the St. 
Charles River, bears the appellation of the suburbs of 
St. Roch. 

As travellers are generally restricted to time, they 
have often failed to gratify their curiosity for want of a 
directory or guide, by which they might with the great- 
est facility view the inost important objects, and also 
from not having previously obatined a letter of intro- 
duction to some respectable citizen who would accom- 
pany them in their explorations. To remove these ob- 
stacles, the following methodical plan of an excursion 
through the city, and the accompanying descriptions 
are given. They will be found to be accurate, and will 
eave the tourist from innumerable perplexities, to which 
he would otherwise be subjected. 

Taking the Upper Town Market-House as the place 
of departure, the observer has on the west the ancient 
Monastery of the Jesuits, now used as the Barracks 



QUEBEC. 307 

for the troops of the garrison. It is a capacious quad- 
rangular edifice of 75 yards by 67, encircled by a wall 
which measures on the north the whole length of Fab- 
rique street, and more than 200 yards on St. Anne st. 
The area enclosed, and which now is appropriated for 
the parades and exercises of the troops, was formerly 
an elegant garden. Fronting on the east side of Mar- 
ket-Place is the principal 

Roman Caiholic Church, which is open nearly the 
whole hours of day-light. It is a massive unornament- 
ed and spacious stone building. From the vestibule, 
the body of the interior is subdivided into equal pro- 
portions. At the termination of the nave is the gi-and 
altar in the middle of the ellipse constituting the sanc- 
tum, the walls of which are ornamented with represen- 
tations and figures, commingled with various other 
graphical emblems. Among the pictures are the con- 
ception — the Apostle Paul in his extatic vision — the 
Saviour ministered unto by angels — the flight of Jo- 
seph and Mary — the Redeemer and the cross — the na- 
tivity of Christ — the Saviour under the contumelious 
outrages of the soldiers — the day of Pentecost — and the 
Holy Family. During the siege of Cluebec, in 1759, 
this church was set on fire by shells discharged from a 
. battery on Point Levi, and all the paintings and orna- 
ments consumed except the first above mentioned, 
which was afterwards found among the ruins. The 
avenue north of the church conducts the tourist to 

The Seminary, a capacious superstructure of stone, 
in the form of a parallelogram. It is encircled by a 
large garden, walled in, measuring in the whole about 
seven acres. This institution was estabhshed in 1663, 



308 QUEBEC. 

and was originally designed for the education of eccle-- 
eiastics ; but this exclusive system was long since 
abandoned, and it is now open for the reception of all 
who comply with its regulations. Attached to the 
Seminary is a museum of natural curiosities ; and on 
the left of the grand entrance from Market-Place is 
the vestibule of the chapel, in which are a great varie- 
ty of sacred paintings. From this the tourist can pro- 
ceed to the church ; and from thence to the 

Place cfJlrmes, where, on the east of the Pentagon, 
stood the Castle of St. Lewis, the former residence of 
the Governor, and which was destroyed by fire in the 
winter of 1834. On the west corner of the Place 
d'Armes stood the Episcopal church, which was burnt 
4 or 5 years since. On the south side, and nearly ad- 
joining, is the 

Court House, a plain neat building of stone about 
140 feet long, and as many broad. It stands where 
once stood a church belonging to the order of the Rec- 
ollects, which was burnt in 1796. 

On the corner of Fort street, south of the scite of the 
castle of St. Lewis, is a large building used for pub- 
lic offices, the front room of which on the first story, 
contains the Museum of the " Society for promoting 
Literature, Science, Arts and Historical research in 
Canada." A visit to it will prove extremely interest- 
ing. Crossing the Place d'Armes to Des Carrieres 
street, the visitor will next inspect the 

Monument, erected in memory of Wolf and Mont- 
calm. This consists of a base and a pillar, surmount- 
ed by a vignette of graphic delineation. The base is 
about 5 by 6 feet, and the whole height of the menu- 



QUEBEC. 309 

ment is sixty-five feet. It contains two Latin inscrip- 
tions. After viewing from the promenade at the exte- 
rior of the Governor's quarters the beauteous landscape 
diverging to the north-east, the visitor will return to St. 
Lewis street, where, after passing the office of the 
Commissariat, he will turn by Parloir street, to the 

Ursidbie J^unnery and Church. This Nunnery and 
the land adjoining it occupy a space of about seven 
acres which is surrounded by a high barrier of stone. 
The institution Avas founded in 1639, and the edifice, 
which is of stone, is two stories high, 114 feet long, 
and about 40 broad. At the east projection is the 
chapel, about 100 feet long and 50 in breadth, the inte- 
rior of which is highly decorated. The convent is neat 
and includes a superior, 42 assistants and 7 novices, 
the chief emplo}'ment of whom is the tuition of a large 
number of girls in common knowledge and other qual- 
ifications. They are more rigid and retired than the 
inmates of any other conventual institution in Canada. 
Persons of distinction only are permitted to examine 
the domestic departments ; but the Chaplain, whose 
apartments are on the right of the entrance, permits 
strangers to examine the church on application to him. 
Among the paintings there exhibited, are the portraits 
of some of the Popes — the birth of Immanuel— the Sa- 
viour exhibiting his heart to the R,eligieuses — the Sa- 
viour taken down from the cross — a cargo of Christians 
captured by the Algerines— Louis xiii. of France — and 
several devices taken from the scriptures. The altars 
are highly ornamented and imposing. 

Leaving the nunnery, the visitor will next proceed by 
A»»e Street, with the south wing of the barracks on 



310 QUEBEC. 

his right to the Presbyterian Church. Passing its front 
he will leave the jail on the right, where he pursues his 
course to the 

Esplanade. If he has no citizen as a companion, and 
no other mode of visiting the fortification, he should 
turn up St. Ursule to St. Louis street, and at the mili- 
tary offices request from the adjutant genera] a card of 
admission to walk round the interior of the 

Citadel. This stupendous fortress circumscribes the 
whole area on the highest part of Cape Diamond, and 
is intended not only to accommodate the garrison as a 
residence, parade, &c. but also to include all the mate- 
rials of war. It perfectly commands the city and river 
St. Lawrence ; and when completed, will be not only 
the most powerful specimen of military architecture on 
the western continent, but also a rival of many of the 
renowned works in the Netherlands. All attempts to 
describe the Citadel in its present unfinished state would 
be nugatory. 

Having entered the grand western gate, where the 
visitor leaves his ticket with a soldier on guard, and 
examined the edifice, he will first proceed round the 
course of the Citadel to the flag staff and telegraph ; 
thence southerly by the parapet bordering on the river 
to the machinery at the head of the rail-way, or in- 
clined plane, which is 500 feet long, extending from 
the wharf to the Cape, where its perpendicular eleva- 
tion is 345 feet above the stream. This rail-way is us- 
ed by the government alone, to convey stones and oth- 
er articles of great weight and bulk, for the erection of 
the new fortress, 



(iVE-BEC. 511 

Having surveyed from tho highest point the majes- 
tic scene in every diversified aspect of hill and dale, 
land and water, the visitor will follow the course of the 
wall on his left hand, until he returns to the same gate, 
and pursue his walk by it, over St. Louis gate along 
the Esplanade, until he arrives opposite the church of 
the Coii^ireganistes, immediately below which is the 
national school house. 

Proceeding along St. John street, he will turn north 
of St. Stanislaus street, on the east side of which stands 
Trinity chapel, whence crossing- Carleton street, he 
arrives at the artillery barracks and the armory — the 
latter of which may be inspected, if a resident of the 
city be in company. 

Opposite the armory is the anatomical room of the 
medical society. Thence walking up Palace street, on 
the right hand is St. Helen street, where is Mr. Chas- 
seur's natural museum. Returning into Palace street, 
the visitor crosses obliquely above to Collins' Lane, in 
vi'hich stands on the left, the 

Chapel of the Hotel Dleu. These premises include a 
large proportion of the northern part of the interior of 
the city — commencing from the gate of the burial ground 
on Couillard street and extending to Palace street, 
with a wall on the north, parallel to the fortifications , 
the' whole space occupying about twelve acres. This 
institution was commenced in 1637, underthe auspices 
of the Duchess of Aiguillon, and was consecrated to 
the reception and care of the sick, who are indigent 
and distressed. It is a capacious edifice, the longest 
portion of which extends nearly one hundred and thir- 
ty yards by seventeen in depth, and three stories high. 
aa2 



On the north-west side from the centre, a range is erect' 
ed two stories high, fifty yards in length, and nearly as 
many feet broad, plain and unadorned. This wing is 
appropriated for the patients ; the upper story of which 
is occupied by the females. All proper attendance 
both from the nuns and physicians, with every necea- 
sary comfort, is gratuitously administered. 

In the convent the sisterhood reside, who now include 
the superieure, thirty-three religeuses professes, two no- 
vices and one postulante. The regularity, neatness 
and purity with which the establishment is conducted, 
and the solace of the wretched who find refuge in this 
hospitable domain, are highly exemplary. 

The church of the Hotel Dieu externally is perfect- 
ly plain, and the interior is little adorned. The paint-- 
ings may be examined upon application to the chaplain. 

Having completed an examination of the Hotel Dieu, 
•V\nth the surrounding garden, the visitor may next fol- 
low Couillard, St. Joachin and St. George's streets to 
the Grand Battery and the ancient palace of the Catho- 
lic bishop, now used by the provincial parliament; or 
he can return to Palace street, and continue his prog- 
ress to the gate, where, by passing the guard house 
and pursuing his walk easterly, he may accurately un* 
derstand the nature of the defence which the city can 
make against external assault. 

The first hou^e at which he arrives is distinguished 
as the residence of the renowned Montcalm. There he 
may turn to thy right which Vi^ill lead him to Couillard 
street, or he can continue his walk passing Hope Gate, 
until he arrh'es at the Look-out from the north-east 
platform of tlie battery. 



In the lower town, the only objects which merit no- 
tice, besides the inclined plane or rail-way to the^Cita- 
del, are the Exchange Reading Room, and the Clueboc 
Library, which are always open for the admission of 
strangers, if regularly introduced, and are worthy of 
inspection. 

About one hundred yards from the lower end of the 
rail- way. General Montgomery and his aids with other 
men were killed on the morning of December 31, 1775, 
when proceeding to the assault of Gluebec. The place 
may be easily recognized, notwithstanding the altera- 
tions which have occurred. At that period, a narrow 
path only was made between the foot of the hill and 
the river, so that vessels were fastened to the rock by 
large iron bolts, one of 'w'hich still remains, near the 
very spot where the American General and his ad- 
vanced party were discomfited. The wharves, houses, 
&c. all have been long since constructed. At the top 
of the small ascent on the street immediately below, 
the small battary had been erected, near the plat where 
the southerly forge is now' stationed. As Montgomery 
led on the attack, the British retreated before him. In 
passing round Cape Diamond, the ice and projecting 
rocks rendered it necessary for the Americans to press 
forward in a narrow file, until they anived at the block 
house and picket. The General was himself in front, 
and assisted with his own hands to cut down and pull 
up the picket. The roughness of the way had so 
lengthened his line of march, that he was obliged to 
M'ait for a force to come up before he couLd proceed. 
Having re-assembled about 200 men, he advanced 
boldly and rapidly at their head to force the barrier. 



314 PLAINS OF ABRAHAM. 

One or two of the enemy had by this time ventured to 
return to the battery, and seeing a match standing by 
one of the guns, touched it off, when the American 
force was within forty paces of it. This single and ac- 
cidental fire struck down General Montgomery and his 
aids. Captain M'Pherson and Captain Cheesman. 

The remains of Montgomery were interred by a sol- 
dier of the name of Thompson within a wall that sur- 
rounded a powder magazine near the ramparts bound- 
ing on St. Lewis' gate ; and in 1818 were removed to 
New- York, where they were deposited beneath a mon- 
ument in front of St. Paul's church. 

The Plains of Abraham lie south and west of Glue- 
bee. The visitor, on leaving St. Louis gate, should turn 
up the stairs to the Glacis, continue his course under 
the citadel, and pursue a path to the right. At the 
termination of the enclosure, the bank is ascended to 
the Plains of Abraham, near the spot where Wolfe died. 
The large house at a distance in the front is erected on 
the scite of a French redoubt, which defended the as- 
cent from Wolfe's Cove, and was the primary object of 
assault and capture, after the top of the hill had been 
gained by the British troops. The precipice at the 
Cove, from 150 to 200 feet in height, and full of projec- 
tions of rocks and trees, seemed to be rendered almost 
inaccessible. General Wolfe, however with unparal- 
leled fortitude, led the w\iy in the night (Sept. 12,1759) 
through a narrow path winding obliquely up the hill, 
which, with the assistance of boughs and stumps, ena- 
bled him and his troops to gain the summit. Here, by 
day-light the next morning, they were formed in line of 
battle, in readiness to meet the enemy. 



PLAINS OP ABRAHAM. 315 

General Montcalm, on receiving information that 
the British had possession of the heights, broke up his 
camp at Beaufort, crossed the St. Charles river, and at 
about 10 o'clock in the morning commenced the attack. 
After a desperate struggle of about two hours, in which 
both commanders had been mortally wounded, the 
French gave way, and left the field in possession of the 
victors. 

Wolfe fell at the critical moment that decided the 
victory. He was wounded in the early part of the en- 
gagement by a bullet in his wrist — soon after by a ball 
which passed through his groin — and it was not until a 
third had pierced his breast, that he suffered himself to 
be carried from the field. " I die happy," was his ex- 
clamation, when in the arms of death he heard the joy- 
ful shouts of victory. 

The Mortello Toicers, consisting offour circular forts, 
are situated at the northern extremity of the Plains of 
Abraham, about half a mile in advance of the exterior 
grand wall of the fortifications. They are numbered 
from the river St. Lawrence to the General Hospital, 
and guard the approaches to the city on the south and 
west. They are nearly 40 feet in height, with a base 
diameter almost equal ; and the exterior wall is of am- 
ple strength to resist a cannonade. 

Quebec, like Montreal, suffered severely from the 
Asiatic cholera in the summer of 1832. From the 
commencement of the disease in June, until its termi- 
nation about the first of September, it is estimated there 
were not less than 2,500 deaths ; being equal to about 
one tenth of its population. 



516 FALLS OF M0i\-TMOREXCI. 

The Falls of Montmorenci, are situated about 8 
miles north-east of Gluebec, on the river of the same 
name, near its junction with the St. Lawrence. These 
falls pour over a perpendicular precipice 240 feet in 
height, and may almost compare in beauty and gran- 
deur with the cataract of Niagara. 

The eficct from the summit of the cliff is awfully 
grand and sublime. The prodigious depth of the de- 
scent of the waters of this surprir-ing fall ; the bright- 
ness and volubility of their course ; the swiftness of 
Iheir movement through the air ; and the loud and hol- 
low noise emitted from the basin, swelling with inces- 
sant agitation from the weight of the dashing waters, 
forcibly combine to attract the attention, and to impress 
the mind of the spectator with sentiments of grandeur 
and elevation. The breadth of the fall is 3 00 feet; and 
the basin, which is bounded by steep cliffs, forms an 
angle of forty-five degrees. When viewed from the 
beach, the cataract is seen, with resplendent beauty, to 
flow down the gloomy precipice, the summit of which 
is crowded with woods. The diffusion of the stream, 
to the breadth of 1,500 feet, and the various small cas- 
cades produced by the inequalities of its rocky bed, on 
its way to the St. Lawrence, display a very singular 
and pleasing combination. 

Remains of entrenchments and fortifications erected 
during the French war are still to be seen near the falls. 
A battery occupied by Gen. Wolfe, in June, 1759, on 
the precipice north-cast cfthe falls, is yet visible. The 
French occupied the opposite bank; and Wolfe at- 
tempted to storm their works by fording the river be- 
Iqw the fall? and ascending the heights. ¥/ithout 



FALLS OP MONTMORENCr. 317 

forming in a regular manner, and without waiting for 
additional reinforcements which were on their way from 
Point Levi, Wolfe's men rashly ascended the hil!, 
eager for the onset, and were cut down by the French 
artillery and musquetry, and obliged to retreat. The 
English loss was about 500 ; while that of the French 
was trifling. A storm coming on, further attampts to 
dislodge the French were abandoned. The British af- 
terwards ascended the river, and the action on the 
Plains of Abraham, which has already been noticed, 
took place in the month of September following. 

There are three points which afford the best views of 
the Falls. 1. From the upper window of the mill, 
whene the projecting leap is safely seen. 2. Having 
crossed the bridge, the visitor proceeds along the brow 
of the hill until he arrives nearly in front of the whole 
cataract ; from this summit, the view, with the concom- 
itant circumstances, inspire commingled emotions of 
awe, terror and astonishment. From the same spot 
there is a lucid and beauteous prospect of Cluebec, 
with its encircling scenery ; and with an ordinary mag- 
nifying glass, the observer can discern all the promi- 
nent objects — the steeples, towers, fortifications, prin- 
cipal edifices, the shipping, the course of the St. Law> 
rcnce, until it is lost among the hills — Point Levi and 
its vicinity — the north side of the island of Orleans — 
the point of Ange Gardien — and the shores of the river 
as far as Cape Tourment. 3. Hence the visitor de- 
scends the hill, and pursuing its course to the right, he 
may ordinarily advance to the rock which interrupts 
the turbulence of the stream when discharged into the 
chasm. In the view from below, the most vivid im- 



318 LOKETTE. 

pressions of this gorgeous cascade are produced; and 
travellers who do not thus survey the falls, can form 
only a faint and incorrect idea of its apparently chang- 
ing effect. 

At a considerable distance above the Falls, the chan- 
nel of the river is contracted between high vertical 
rocks, and the water rushes with proportionate velocity. 
In one part, at about half a mile from the bridge, cas- 
cades of three or four yards in depth are adjacent to 
two fine geological curiosities, familiarly denominated 
the J^ahiral Steps, which appear to have been formed 
by the attrition of the stream, occasioned by the melt- 
ing of the snows and the augmented rapidity of the 
flood. Many of these steps are so regular, that they 
almost develope the process of human art. The per- 
pendicular attitude of the rocks on the east side — ^^the 
tree-crowned summit — the uniformity of appearance, 
resembling an ancient castle wall in ruins — the preci- 
pices on the western bank — and the foaming noisy cur- 
rent, pourtray a romantic wildness, ^vhich is highly at- 
tractive. Observers are amply remunerated for their 
walk, as, conjoined with this interesting object, they 
witness the continuous descent and the accelerating 
force and celerity with which the river is propelled to 
the point, whence it is precipitated into the St. Law- 
rence. 

LoRETTE, an Indian village, about 8 miles from the 
city, can be taken in the route to or from the falls of 
Montmorenci. It is built upon an elevated situation, 
whence there is an extensively varied and agreeable 
landscape, in many points similar to that from Cape 
Diamond, but also including some interesting novelties 



CHAUDJIERE FALLS. 319 

of outline. It exhibits a bold and beautiful view of 
Q,uebec and its suburbs, and in its extent it is bounded 
solely by the distant southern mountains. The Indian 
inhabitants of the village retain many of the prominent 
characteristics of the aboriginal roamers of the forest, 
combined with vicious habits contracted by their prox- 
imity to a large sea-port, and their intercourse with its 
migratory population. At this village is a very charm- 
ing view of the river St. Charles, tumbling and foaming 
over the rocks and ledges to a great depth. The rug- 
ged and perpendicularly elevated woody chfTs, in con- 
nection with the impetuous rush of the waters, although 
circumscribed in extent, and therefore affording no ex- 
panded prospect in immediate front, yet, as seen from 
the Saw-Mill, and from the bank and the bridge at the 
head of the dell, in its different positions and aspects, 
constitute an object which, when contrasted with the 
more majestic cataracts of Montmorenci and the Chau- 
diere, or recollected in combinationwith them, furnishes 
in memorial an addition to the varieties which those 
stupendous natural curiosities embody. 

The Chaudiere Falls can be approached by land 
or water. The former is generally preferred, the dis- 
tance to the mouth of the Chaudiere being nine miles 
from Gluebec. From thence visitors can cross at the 
ferry and take an indirect path to the west bank of the 
river, or diverge from the St. Lawrence some distance 
north of the Chaudiere, and arrive within a short walk 
of the falls on the eastern bank. The river at the cas- 
cade is much compressed, being only about 400 feet 
across ; and the depth into the Pot, as it is usually 
termed, is about 135 feet. Many rocks divide the 

BB 



320 ST. LAAVRENCE'RIVER. 

Stream, precisely at the fall, into three chief currents, of 
which the westerly is the largest — these partially re- 
unite before their broken and agitated waves are re- 
ceived into the basin ; where each dashing against the 
other maintains a turbulent whirlpool. The form of 
the rock forces a part of the waters into an oblique di- 
rection, advancing them beyond the line of the preci- 
pice, while the cavities in the rocks increase the foaming 
fury of the revolving waters in their descent, displaying 
globular figures of brilliant whiteness, which are richly 
contrasted with the encircling, dark and gloomy cliffs, 
while the ascending spray developes all the variety of 
the coloured cloudy arch, and enlivens the beauty of 
the landscape ; the wild diversity of rocks, the foliage 
of the overhanging woods, the rapid motion, efful- 
gent brightness and the deeply solemn sound of the 
cataracts, all combining to present a rich assemblage of 
objects highly attractive, especially when the visitor, 
emerging from the wood, is instantaneously surprised 
by the delightful scene. Below, the view is geatly 
changed, and the falls produce an additional strong and 
vivid impression. If strangers only view the falls from 
one side of the river, the prospect from the eastern 
shore is recommended as preferable. 

The Montmorenci and Chaudiere Falls, the village 
of Loretto and Lake St. Charles, together with the 
scenery of Orleans, a beautiful island six miles down 
the St. Lawrence, Beaufort and Point Levi, will always 
afford interesting excursions to the tourist atGluebec. 

The St. Lawrence below GIuebec. — Those who 
have not seen this part of this greatest of the navigable 
rivers in the world, can form but a very imperfect idea 



ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 321 

of its grandeur, and the magnificence of its scenery. 
Above the island of Orleans, the St. Lawrence is com- 
paratively confined to a nan-ow channel passing through 
a level country, oflfering much sameness on the south 
shore, with the mountains on the north, too distant to 
produce much effect. The views on the great Lakes 
of the St. Lawrence in the Upper Province, stretching 
out of sight of land, differ little from those on any ex- 
tended sea coast studded with islands, and bordered 
with towns and habitations. 

The Sc. Lawrence below the Island of Orleans, from 
many points on its northern banks, lays open to the 
view a hundred miles of a river varying from twenty to 
twenty-five miles in width, the whole course and coast 
of which, in this clear atmosphere, can be distinctly 
discerned. Beautiful islands covered with neat dwell- 
ings and cultivated fields, contrast with those that are 
of bare rock, or covered with wood ; the crowded set- 
tlements, the villages and distant highlands on the 
south shore, are opposed to the bold and lofty moun- 
tains of the north, crowned with the native forests, and 
impending over the margin of the river, while the val- 
leys formed by the streams and torrents of these moun- 
tain regions, leave openings in which the village spires 
are discernible in front of the bare, rugged, and stupen- 
dous ranges in the inte^-ior. In other places the set- 
tlements extend nearly to the tops of the mountains, 
presenting to the view neat dwellings, luxuriant har- 
vests, ?i,nd gi-Ren fields, etched out on the face of the 
wildest of nciture's domains. Along the main channel 
of the rivor, numbers of the thousands of vessels which 
frequent Quebec during the yeason of navigation, ary 



322 SAGUENAT RIVER. 

continually passing up or down under crowded sails, 
or quietly anchored, waiting the tides or winds, and 
from behind every cape and promonotorj'^, among the isl- 
ands, and in every bay and creek, the smaller vessels 
and boats are constantly plying in the industrious pur- 
suits of the inhabitants, or en excvirsions of social in- 
tercourse. It is a scene which elevates the mind to de- 
vout contemplation, and a just appreciation of the ben- 
fits of peaceful industry. 

The inhabitants of this part of the St. Lawrence are 
estimated at about 100,000. 

The Saguenay, whicli enters the St. Lawrence on 
its northern shore, about 100 miles below Cluebec, is 
one of the most extreordinary rivers in the world. It 
is the grand outlet of the waters from the Saguenay 
country into the St. Lawrence, and although only a 
tributary stream, has the appearance of a long mountain 
lake, in an extent of fifty miles, rather than that of a 
river. The scenery is of the most wild and magnificent 
description. The river varies from about a mile to two 
miles in breadth, and follows its impetuous course in a 
south-east direction, through a deep valley formed by 
mountains of gneiss and sienitic granite, which in some 
places rise vertically from the water-side to an elevation 
of two thousand feet. 

'I'herc is a feature attendin^this river, which renders 
it a natural curiosity, and is probably the only instance 
of the kind. The St. Lawrence is about eighteen miles 
wide at their confluence, and has a depth of about two 
hundred and forty feet. A ridge of rocks below the 
surface of the water, through which there is a channel 
about one hundred and Iwentv feet deep, lies across the 



SAGUENAY RIVER. 323 

tnouth of the Saguenay, within which the depth in- 
creases to eight hundred and forty feet, so that the bed 
of the Saguenay is absohitely six hundred feet below 
that of the St. Lawrence into which it falls, a depth 
which is preserved many miles up the river. So extra- 
ordinary a feature could only occur in a rocky country, 
■uch as is found in some parts of Canada, where the 
beauties of nature are displayed in their wildest form. 
The course of the tide, meeting with resistance from 
the rocks at the mouth of the Saguenay, occasions a 
violent riplincf, or surf, which is much increased and ex- 
ceedingly dangerous to boats during the ebb tide. The 
extraordinary depth of the river, and the total want of 
information concerning it, has given rise to an idea 
among the credulous fishermen, of its being in many 
parts unfathomable. This effect is admissible on unin- 
formed minds, for there is always an appearance of 
mystery about a river when its water is even discol- 
oured so as to prevent the bed from being seen, and the 
delusion is here powerfully assisted by the lofty over- 
shadowing precipices of either shore. 

Following the course of the river upwards, it pre- 
serves a westerly direction to the distance of about sixty 
miles, in some parts about half a mile broad, in others 
expanding into small lakes, about two miles across to 
their borders, being interspersed with a few low islands. 
In the narrow parts of the river, the depth at the dis- 
tance of a few yards from the precipice forming the 
bank, is six hundred feet, and in the middle of the river 
it increases to nearly nine hundred. Here the navigation 
is suddenly terminated by a succession of falls and 
rapids, near which is situated the trading post of Chi- 
bb2 



324 FROM QUEBEC TO MON'TREAL. 

cotimy. At this place there is an old church, built 
about two centuries ago by the Jesuits, who were ac" 
tive in civilizing the native Indians. The church is still 
kept in decent repair by the Indians, and is annually 
visited by a missionary priest. These people are few 
in number and are not to be met with between this tra^ 
ding post and the mouth of the river. A fine tract of 
country commences here, intersected by several rivers 
issuing fi-ora lake St. John, distant about sixty-seven 
mile's farther to the westward. The little communica- 
tion which is carried on with this lake is, by means of 
these rivers, in bark canoes, and batteaux, and flat- 
bottomed boats of the country ; but it is subject to 
much interruption from theportages, or carrying places, 
necessary to avoid the numerous falls in them. The 
tide of emigration is directed in this quarter. 

It was in this river, that the ships of the French 
squadron found a secure retreat, at the memorable siege 
of duebec under Gen. Wolfe. 

At the mouth of the St. Lawrence, 3G0 miles below 
Cluebec, the river is 100 miles wide. It here connects 
with the Gulph of St. Lawrence, 350 miles long and 
150 wide, which com.municates with the Atlantic by 
three different passages. 

FROM QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. 

In returning to Montreal, the traveller (as before re- 
marked) should, if practicable, take a boat at such an 
hour, as to give him a chance of vievv-ingby day-light 
on the river the scenery which, in descending, was 
passed in the night. 



PROM MONTREAL TO WIIITIlIIALL. S25 

The approach to Montreal in ascending the river is 
extremely beautiful. The mount behind the city cloth- 
■ed in a rich and unbroken foliage, the numerous adja- 
;ent country seats, the spires and edifices of the city, 
and the beautiful woody island in front, all conspire in 
presenting a rich and truly diversified landscape, and 
one that vill not be easily effaced from the memory. 
jFor a description of Montreal, see p. 291.] 

FROM MONTREAL* TO WHITEHALL, 

Is 181 miles, and the intervening distances are as 
follows : 

Miles. 

Longueil, , . 2 

Chambly, 13 



Miles. 

Burhngton, 11 

Split Rock, 12 

Essex, 2 

Basin Harbor, 12 

Crown Point, 12 

Ticonderoga, 15 

Y/hitehall,' 24 



St. Johns, 12 

Isle Aux Noix, 14 

Rouse's Point, iO 

Chazv, 12 

Plattsburgh, 15 

Port Kent, 15 

From Montreal the St. Lawrence is crossed in a 

horseboat to Longtieil,t a distance of two miles. After 

* At Montreal a stage can be taken twice a week for 
Danville, Vt. distant 100 miles ; from thence to the 
Notch in the White Mountains, 28 miles ; from thence 
to concord, N. H., 75 miles ; and from thence to Bos- 
ton, 68 miles. The whole route is performed in four 
days. [For a description of the White Mountains, see 
" Raid e from Burlington to Boston.^''] 

t The route may bo varied so as to pass through La 
Prairie, a village of about 200 houses, and the grand 
thoroughfare for trade between Montreal and St. Johns, 
though the route through Longueil is considered pre- 
ferable. 



326 LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 

leaving Longueil, the country becomes remarkably 
level, until you reach 

Chamblt, 13 miles distant. This is a considerable 
town, on the river Sorel, containing extensive barrack? 
and some troops. In the vicinity is High Mountain, 
vrhich confines between its conical summits a lake of 
pure water. The fort is built of stone, in a quadran- 
gular form, and resembles in its appearance an ancient 
castle. From this place the road follows the river, un- 
til you arrive at 

St. Johns, a distance of 12 miles. This place was 
an important post during the French and Revolutionary 
wars. In the latter it was taken, after a gallant de- 
fence, by General Montgomery, as Avas also Chambly. 
It contains, at present, about 100 houses and 800 in- 
habitants. Though a place of considerable business, 
it possesses nothing in its appearance or accommoda- 
tions inviting to a stranger. Steam boats leave St. 
Johns daily for Whitehall, and touch at all the inter- 
mediate places on the Lake. Fare through, $5. 

LAKE CHAMPLAIN, 

Forms part of the boundary line between the states 
of New- York and Vermont. Its length is 140 miles, 
and the gi-eatest breadth 14. A great proportion of the 
lands on the margin of the lake are still unredeemed 
from a state of nature, and in some places, particularly 
at the north end, are low and marshy. After entering 
the territories of the United States, the country is more 
populous, and under a better state of improvement. 
The villages seen from the lake all exhibit a cheerful 
and thriving appearance. The lake properly terminates 



PLATTSEURCai. 327 

at Mount Independence; from whence to Whitehall, a 
distance of 23 miles, it assumes the appearance of a 
river, in which little more than room is left, at any point 
to turn the boat. The history of Champlain involves 
many interesting events associated with the French and 
nevolutionary wars. During those periods several for- 
tifications were constructed, which have since under- 
gone some repairs, but are now in a state of decay. 
The ruins of the ancient fortresses at Ticonderoga and 
Crown Point are still visible. 

Isle aux Noix, 14 miles from St. Johns. This is a 
strong military and naval post possessed by the Eng- 
lish. The works are generally in good preserv'ation ; 
and arc occupied by a small military corps. In the ex- 
pedition against Canada in 1775, the troops under Gen- 
erals Schuyler and Montgomery went down the lake 
in rafts and landed at this island, from whence they 
proceeded to St. Johns. The other detachment, under 
Gen. Arnold, marched by land through the present 
state of Maine, (then a wilderness) to Q.uebec. 

Rouse's Point, at the outlet of Lake Champlain, 
and 10 miles from the Isle aux Noix, contains strong 
'stone fortifications, erected by the United States, but 
which by the decision of tlie commissioners appointed 
to settle the boundary line between the American and 
British governments, fell within the territories of the 
latter. 

The Village of Plattsburgh, 27 miles farther, is 
handsomely located at the mouth of the Saranac river, 
on the west side of Lake Champlain. It contains about 
350 dwellings, besides the court house and prison for 
the county. The number of inhabitants is about 3000. 



328 PI,ATT3BURGH. 

This place is rendered celebrated by the brilliant victory 
of M'Donough and Macomb, over the British land and 
naval forces under Sir George Provost and Commo- 
dore Downie. The naval engagement took place in 
front of the villajre, u'hich overlooks the extensive Bay 
of Plattsburgh for several miles. Here the American 
Commodore waited at anchor the arrival of the British 
fleet, which appeared passing Cumberland Head, about 
8 in the morning of the 11th September, 1814. The 
first .gun from the fleet was the signal for commencing 
the attack on land. Sir George Prevost, witii about 
14,000 men, furiously assaulted the defences of the 
town, whilst the battle raged with increasing ardor be- 
tween the fleets, then contending in full view of the re- 
spective armies. General Macomb, with his gallant 
little army, consisting of about 3,000 men, mostly un- 
disciplined, foiled the repeated assaults of the enemy, 
until the capture of the British fleet, after an action of 
two hours, obliged him to retire, with the loss of 2,500 
men, together with considerable baggage and ammuni- 
tion. The American force on the lake consisted of 66 
guns, and 820 men ; and was opposed to a force of 95 
guns, and 1,050 men. Thus ended the affair at Platts- 
burgh, no less honorable to American valor than derog- 
atory to the British arms. Commodore Downie wss 
killed in the engagement. He was represent -^d os a 
brave and skilful officer ; but was opposed to the meth- 
od of attack on the American flotilla. Both fleets are 
now dismantled, and moored at Whitehall. 

A monument erected to the memory of Commodore 
Downie, in the church-yard at Plattsburgh, contains, 
the following inscription : 



PLATTSBURGH. 329 

" Sacred to the memory of George Downie, Esq. 
a Post-Captain in the Royal British Navy, who glori- 
ously fell on board his B. M, S. the Coniiance, while 
leading the vessels under his command to the attack of 
the American flotilla at anchor in Cumberland Bay, off 
Plattsburgh, on the 11th September, 1814. To mark 
the spot where the remains of a gallant officer and sin- 
cere friend were honorably interred, this stone has been 
erected by his affectionate sister-in-law Mary Downie." 
The remains of a number of officers of both armies, 
who fell in the engagement, repose near the Commo- 
»:1ore, with no monument to inform the stranger, and 
with no record but tradition to denote the spot of their 
interment. East of Downie are five graves, occuiing 
in the following order: Commencing south — Captain 
Copeland, an American officer — Lieut. Stansbury, of 
■ the American navy — Lieut. Runk, of the American ar- 
my — Lieut. Gamble, of the American navy — and a 
British Sergeant. On the north side of Downie are the 
remains of the British Lt. Col. Welhngton — on the 
south, two British Lieutenants — on the west Captain 
Purchase and four other officers, three of whom were 
British. 

The traveller will find many objects of interest at 
Piattsburgh, which will warrant his continuance there 
for one or two days. A short distance from the village 
are the cantonement and breast works occupied by 
Gen. Macomb and his troops during the last war. A 
mile north is shown the house possessed by Gen. Pre- 
vost as his head-quarters during the siege in 1814 ; be- 
tween which and the village, the marks of cannon-shot 
on trees and other objects, are still visible. Farther 



330 PORT KExNT ADGATE's FALLS. 

onward, about 5 milep, on a hill overlooking the village 
of Beekmantown, is shown the spot where a sanguina- 
ry engagement took place between the American and 
British troops, which resulted in the death of the British 
Col. Wellington, and several mer/of both armies. Col. 
W. was killed in the centre of the road, about equi- 
distant from the summit and foot of the hill. 

M^Donongli's Farm, granted by the legislature of 
Vermont, lies on Cumberland Head, nearly east of 
Plattsburgh ; a ride to which, around the bay, in the 
warm season, is refreshing and delightful. 

Port Kent, 15 miles from Plattsburgh, is a spot 
selected on the lake shore for a new town or village, 
17 miles southerly of Plattsburgh by land, and 15 miles 
by water. There are a few buildings, and a wharf 
erected, at which passengers are landed from the steam 
boat. From this place may be seen, on the north, the 
Isle La Mott, 26 miles distant, Grand Island, the Two 
Sisters, Point La Roche, Cumberland Head, and Bel- 
core and Macornb's Islands ; on the east, Stave, Pro- 
vidence and Hog Islands, Colchester Point, and the 
Green Mountains of Vermont ; on the south, the vil- 
lage of Burlington, about 1 1 miles distant, with the 
high peak called the Camel's Rump ; the whole form- 
ing a most delightful and pleasant landscape not excell- 
ed at any other point of the lake passage. Three miles 
west from Port Kent, are the celebrated 

Adgate's Falls. They are situated on the river 
A'Sable, and take their name from a person residing 
there, who is the proprietor of some valuable mills in 
the vicinity. The water pours over a precipice about 
80 feet in height, into a narrow channel of the river, 



HIGK BRIDGE— BIRLSXGTON. 351 

the banks of which consist of rock, rising perpendicu- 
iarly to the height of from 60 to 100 feet. At what is 
called the 

High Bridge, about half a mile belovv' the falls, the 
channel is narrov/ed to 27 feet. The height of the rocks 
here, which are perpendicular, is 03 feet, and the water 
35 feet deep. Over this chasm a bridge was once erect- 
ed, by throwing timbers across ; but it is now princi- 
pally in decay. The sensations produced on looking 
into this gulf are terrific, and the stoutest heart invol- 
untarily shrinks from the contemplation. There is an 
indifferent road from the falls to the High Bridge, but 
with this exception the spot is yet a wilderness. 

About 4 miles in a westerly direction from this, is 
the thi-iving village of Kecseville, which contains 
several manufactories, a bank, one newspaper estab- 
lishments, and pevarR,l handsome residences. It is a 
place of much cnterprize, and will soon become a large 
town. 

Burlington is situated on the east side of Lake 
Champlain, about 24 miles south-east of Plattsburgh. 
This is one of those beautiful villages which so often 
attract the notice of a stranger in the New-England 
states. The ground rises with a moderate ascent from 
the lake and presents a slope covered with handsome 
houses and trees. On the highest part of the eminence, 
which is 339 feet above the level of the lake, stands the 
University of Vermont. This summit commands a 
noble view of the lake, and the adjacent country, for 
mn.ny miles. There are here about 300 l\ouses and 
cc 



3o2 SPLIT ROCK — CROWN POINT. 

stores, two banks, a court-house, jail, and 3 churches,* 
About 12 miles from Burlington, in the town of Wills- 
borough, (N. Y.) is what is called the 

Split Rock. This curiosity is a part of a rocky- 
promontory projecting into the lake, on the west side, 
about 150 feet, and elevated above the level of the wa- 
ter about 12 feet. The part broken off contains about 
half an acre, covered with trees, and is separated from 
the main rock about 20 feet. The opposite sides ex- 
actly fit each other — the prominences in the one corres- 
ponding with the cavities in the other. Through this 
fissure a line has been let down to the depth of 500 feet, 
without finding bottom. 

Crown Point, is situated 36 miles from Burlington, 
on the west side of Lake Champlain. It is formed by 
an extensive deep bay on the west, skirted by a steep 
mountain, and on the north and east by the body of 
the lake. The elevated plain was first occupied by the 
French, in 1731, as a military position, and abandoned 
by them in 1759, when General Amherst took posses- 
sion of it, and built Fort Frederick. The ruins of this 
fort may still be traced, being situated directly opposite 
to Chimney Point on the south side of the bay. After 
the peace of 1763, it was occupied by a subaltern and a 
mere safe-guard, until it was burnt by accident some- 
time previous to the American Revolution. In 1775 it 
fell into the hands of the Americans, and was after- 



* Travellers designing to visit Boston, frequently 
take a stage at this place, on a route which is noticed in 
a subsequent part of this work. 



TICONDEROGA — WHITEHALL. 333 

wards evacuated by them, on the advance of Burgoyne, 
in 1 776. A few years since a number of British guineas 
were found here, from the accidental crumbhng of the 
earth from the banks where they had been deposited. 

TicoNDEROGA, which has already been noticed, {see 
p. 139,) is situated 15 miles south of Crown Point, and 
'24 miles north of Whitehall. 

One mile from Ticonderoga, is Mount Indepen- 
dence, on the east side of the lake ; near the foot of 
which, the remains of a small battery are still to be 
seen. What was called the Horse-Shoe battery was 
on an elevation about a quarter of a mile in the rear. 

Nine miles farther, the lake is contracted into four 
narrow channels, bounded on the west and east by lofty 
mountains. 

South and East Bats are soon reached, each of 
about five miles in extent. The former was taken by 
Gen. Dieskau and his army, in their route towards 
Fort Edward in 1755. From the latter bay to White- 
hall, the pissage is extremely narrow and of a serpen- 
tine course, and cannot be pursued in safety during a 
dark night. 

Whitehall, terminates the steam-boat navigation 
of Lake Champlain. It is an incorporated villnge sit- 
uated on the west bank of Wood Creek at its entrance 
into the lake, 73 miles north of Albany, and contains 
about 200 dwellings and stores, and 1,500 inhabitants. 
The situation of this place is low and unpleasant ; and 
it derives its principal consequence from the naviga- 
tion of the lake, which is passable for sloops of 80 tons 
burthen, and from the northern canal, which here enters 



334 :hampi.ain canal. 

the lake. Burgoyne occupied this place for a short 
time, preparatory to his march to Saratoga ; and on the 
heights, over the harbor, are the remains of a battery 
and block house.* 

THE CHAMPLAIN CANAL. 

Commencing' at Whitehall, proceeds south five and a 
half miles, when it enters Yv^ood Creek, a narrow slug- 
gish stream, averaging 15 feet in depth. This creek is 
connected with the canal, and is rendered navigable for 
boats, for about 6^ miles, to Fort Ann village. From 
thence the canal proceeds through Fort Ann, Kings- 
bury, and Fort Edward, to Fort Miller Falls, below 
which the canal enters the river, which is made naviga- 
ble 3 miles to Saratoga Falls, where the canal is taken 
out of the river on the west side, and proceeds through 
Saratoga,Stillwater andHalfmoon, to Waterford, where 
it enters the Hudson, and by a branch canal enters the 
Mohawk, which it crosses by a dam, and after passing 
I of a mile joins the Erie canal in the town of Water- 
vleit. The whole length of the Champlain canal is 63 
miles. The cost to the state, exclusive of the feeder 
from Glen's Falls, was $875,000. 

The intervening distances on the canal betv.'esn 
Whitehall and Albany are as follows : 



+ A route from this place to Boston is noticed in a 
gubsequent part of this work. 



FROM WHITEHALL TO ALP \NT. 



335 



Miles. 

Fort Ann, 12 

Sandy Hill, 8 

Fort Edward, 2 

Fort Miller Falls, 8 

Saratoga Falls, 3 

Schuyierville, 2 

Bemus' Heights, 12 



Miles. 

Stillwater V 3 

Mechauicy Ville, 3 

Waterford, 8 

Watervleit, 2 

Gibbon's Ville, 2 

Albany, 6 



FROM WHITEHALL TO ALBANY. 
BT STAGE AND RAIL ROAD. 

Stages leave Whitehall every morning on the arrival 
of the Champlain steam-boats, and reach Saratoga 
Springs in time to dine ; from whence the rail road is 
taken for Albany, immediately after dinner. The whole 
distance is 75^ miles— fare $3,50— and the intermedi- 
ate distances as foUov/s: 



Miles. 
By Rail Road. 

Ballston Spa, 6^ 

Ballston Lake, 5 

Schenectadv, 10 

Buel's Farm, 12 

Albany, 3 



Miles. 
By Stage. 
From Whitehall to 

Fort Ann, 11 

SandvHiU...... 10 

Foit Ville, 7 

Wilton, 4 

Saratoga Springs, .... 7 

The route is in a southern direction near the line of 
the canal, until reaching Fort Ann ; half a mile north 
of which place, at an elbow made by Wood Creek, 
leaving barely room between the creek and a precipi- 
tous hill for the road, a severe engagement took place 
in 1777, between a detachment of Burgoyne's troops, 
and a party of Americans, under the command of Col. 
Sterry, who were on their retreat from Ticoderoga. 
The Americans v/ere on the plain south of the hill, 
cc2 



336 FORT ANNE — FORT VILLE. 

which served as a cover to the British. Their fire on 
Sterry's forces below was destructive, and compelled 
him to abandon his position. 

The village of Fort Anne, 11 miles from Whitehall, 
contains 70 or 80 houses, and is located on the site of 
the old Fort erected during the French war. It was at 
the north part of the village on the bank of the creek. 

Burgoyne's road, commencing about 2 miles south of 
the village, and pursuing nearly the course of the pres- 
ent road, is still visible. It was a causeway, formed 
by logs laid transversely, a labor which became neces- 
sary in conveying his cannon and baggage waggons to 
Saratoga. 

Sandy Hill, 10 miles farther. (See p. 180.) 

Fort Ville, a small village in the town of Moreau, 
is 7 miles farther. About half a mile west of the vil- 
lage, there is a large Spring, which ebbs and flows reg- 
ularly with the tide. It rises through a body of beauti- 
ful fine sand, containing yellow particles of a metahc 
substance, and has been found to answer every purpose 
of the purest emery. It partakes, also, so much of the 
character of quick sand, that every weighty substance 
placed in the spring, even the longest sticks of timber, 
are soon drawn beneath the surface. Falling, or even 
stepping into the fountain, therefore, is considered ex- 
tremely dangerous. At low water, the surface is near- 
ly dry ; but at high tide, the water is seen boiling up at 
several points, covering an area of near a quarter of an 
acre. 

About a mile south of Fort Ville, the stage passes 
over an eminence, which affords a beautiful view of the 



fROM AL3AN'i TO BOSTOK. 337 

Greet] Mounlains of Vermont, at the east and the inter- 
mediate country ; three miles from which is Wilton 
church ; from whence to Saratoga Springs is 7 miles. 
[For a description of the laiter place, together loitli the 
rov'e by rail rend to Albany, see pages 155 to 162.] 

ROUTES TO BOSTON. 

These are so various, that the traveller may always 
be governed by his own taste and judgment in a selec- 
tion. The route from Albany has been chosen by ma- 
ny on account of enjoying in the excursion a visit to the 
Lebanon Springs ; while others have preferred a course 
which should embrace the rich mountain scenery of 
Vermon and New-Hampshire : commencing their ex- 
cursions either at Saratoga Springs, Whitehall or Bur- 
lington. We therefore subjoin a description of the dif- 
ferent routes. 

FROM ALBANY TO BOSTON. 

From Albany, stages leave daily for Boston, which 
IS distanct 164 miles, and the route is performed in two 
days. One line passes through Bennington and Brat- 
tleborough, Vt, but the most usual route is thi'ough 
New-Lebanon, Pittsfield, Northampton, Brookfield, 
Worcester and Watertown. 

The several stages and distances on the last men- 
tion route are as follows : 



338 



K'EW^LEBANON, 



Miles, 

Bplchertown, lO 

Ware, 9 

Brookfield, 8 

Spencer, 7 

Leicester, 5 

Worrcstcr, 6 

i-'iaiiiingham, SC 

Weston, 5 

Watertown, 5 

Boston, 10 



Miles. 

Schodack, 5 

Nassau,. ............ 12 

New-Lebanon, 8 

Pittsfield, 9 

Dcilston, 6 

Pern...., 7 

Woitiii.'gtcn, S 

Chestei-field, 9 

Northampton, 13 

Hadley, 2 

Albany, {see p. 135.) 

New-Lebanox, is a pleasant villaige in the town of 
Canaan, N. Y. bordering on Pittsfield, Mass, and is 25 
miles from Albany. It contains a mineral spring of 
considerable importance, which is much frequented in 
the summer months by invalids. It is principally used 
for the purpose of bathing; but is much inferior to the 
Saratoga waters cither as a medicine or beverage?. 
The fountain issues from the side of a high hill, in great 
abundance, discharging at the rate of 18 barrels per 
minute ; and is used as a feeder for several mills. The 
water is remarkably pure and soft, and is perfectly 
tasteless and inodorous. Gas, in considerable quanti- 
ties, escapes from the pebbles and sand, and keeps the 
water in constant motion. It contains small quantities 
of muriate of lime, muriate of soda, sulphate of lime, 
and carbonate of Ume ; and its temperature is 73 de- 
grees of Farenhcit. 

Convenient bathing houses are kept in readiness at 
all times for the accommodation of strangers ; and 
there are a number of boarding establishments which, 
at different rates, afford proportionate fare. Among 
these, tlie Navarino Hotel, is a spacious and well fur- 



PITTSFILD. 339 

nished establishment, calculated to accommodate from 
100 to loO guests. 

Near the spring is what is called the Shakers' Vil- 
lage, containing a number of neat plain buildings, gen- 
erally painted yellow. The property of this society is 
held in common ; and they are said to possess nearly 
3000 acres of fertile land. Besides agricultural pur- 
suits, they carry on several branches of manufactures, 
which are distinguished by excellence of workmanship. 
The singular regulations and ceremonies of these peo- 
ple, constitute an object of attention to tourists. Nine 
miles from New-Lebanon is the village of 

PiTTSFiELD, rendered elegant from its local situation, 
and from the neatness of its buildings. The village 
contains from 1 50 to 200 houses, a bank, a medical col- 
lege containing one of the best anatomical museums in 
the U. States, an academy, 2 printing offices and seve- 
ral stores. Here are annually held the Cattle Show and 
Fair of the celebrated Berkshire agricultural Society, 
which has been incorporated by act of the legislature ; 
and which has done more toM'ards improving the con- 
dition of agriculture than any other institution of the 
kind in the Union. The shov*' and fair, which occupy 
two 'days, never fail to impart an unusual degree of in- 
tsrest, and are always attended by immense crowds of 
citizens.* 



* About 24 miles north of Pittsfield, in the town of 
Adams, there is a Matured Bridge, but little inferior to 
the celebrated natural bridge in Virginia, The exca- 
vation or gutter is in solid lime rock, 40 rods in length, 
varying from 50 to 60 feet in height, through which 



340 NORTHAMPTON'. 

Northampton is 43 miles from Pittsfield, and is one 
of the finest towns in New-England. It is situated a 
mile and a half west of Connecticut river, and M'as set- 
tled as early as the year 1G54. It contains two acade- 
mies, several churches, a bank, 2 printing offices, a court 
house, gaol, and 350 dwellings, s(<nie of which are very 
elegant. The Congregational church is considered 
one of the most beautiful structures of the kind in the 
state. There are several manufactories here ; and the 
place exhibits an unusual degree of enterprize and 
wealth. The Farmington and Hampshire canal corn- 



runs Hudson's Brook or the north branch of the Hoo- 
sic, occupying from 13 to 14 feet, which is the uninter- 
rupted width of the cup. Over this the bridge is 
thrown, being 62 feet from the bed of the brook, 15 
feet long, 10 wide, arched beneath, and what renders it 
a matter of greater curiosity, the arch is perfectly 
smooth, and beautifully white. On the west side of 
the arch is a circular cut room, large enough to contain 
ten persons. The whole place bears the marks of be- 
ing wrought by the irritation of the waters in a most 
workmanlike manner. For ages this cause m^:!st have 
operated in producing the result. In the neighbor- 
hood of the bridge the rocks are somewhat open ; up- 
on examinins: which, tbey are found leading to larrre 
caverns, worked out by the constant friction of water. 
The roar of water and the sublimity of the scenery, 
produce an indescribable sensation upon the visitor, 
which induces him to retreat, being warned that he 
stands on slippery places. There are many traditions 
respecting the precipice — one is, that a war party of 
Indians, on an expedition to Brookfield, in one of the 
early Indian wars, was dashed to pieces on the rocks 
below. Some fifteen or twenty years ago, a Mr. 
Briggs, then a student in William's College, visited the 



MOUNT HOLYOKE. 341 

meuces at this place, and extends to New-Haven, Conn. 
87 miles. Over the Conneciicut river, there is a sub- 
stantial bridge, 1080 feet long, resting on six stone piers. 
Mount Holyoke, in the vicinity of Northampton is 
much frequented by tourists. It is situated on the east 
side of the river opposite to Northampton. The height 
of this mountain above the level of the river is 1070 
feet. In consequence of the resort ':o this place, which 
has been not less than from two to five thousand annu- 
ally, two buildings have been erected on its summit 
for the purpose of accommodating visitors with re- 
freshments. The beautiful and extensive prospect af- 
forded from the top of the mountain, will amply com- 



place unaccompanied. Curiosity tempted him to ex- 
plore more fully the precipice, and, by the assistance 
of poles, he descended to the base of it. Here his eyes 
feasted upon the wonders of nature. His curiosity be- 
ing gratified, he began to think of returning. After re- 
peated trials he gave it up, and inscribed on the rock 
his farewell to his friends and the world. His voice 
could not reach the habitation of man, and the rocks 
were, to all appearance, to be his grave. He, hov/ever, 
began to repeat the notching in the side, which was 
marble, and after a painful labor of several hours, he ef- 
fected his escape. But the exertion proved too much • 
it undermined his health and in a few months he was 
conveyed to his grave. This place was discovered by 
a Mr. Hudson, while travelling the wilderness, a few 
years before the French war. He came to it in the 
night, where he remained, and heard the roaring of the 
mighty torrent beneath him. The next morning he 
perceived that had he advanced a few steps more he 
would have been plunged into eternity. From this 
circumstance, the brook and the falls bear his name. 



342 HADLET. 

pensate the labor and difficulty of the ascent. The 
view embraces eminences 180 miles apart, with sever= 
al beautiful villages and a rich and fertile couutry in- 
tervening, and is said to be unrivalled in the eastern 
states. 

Hadley, 2 miles from Northampton, is one of the 
oldest towns in the state. It was the head quarters of 
the army employed for the defence of the towns on the 
Connecticut river, in the war with Phillip in 1G75-6 ; 
and was, for a long time, the place of residence of the 
two regicides or judges, Whally and Goffe, in the time 
of Charles the second. On the town being attacked by 
the Indians during this war, a stranger, venerable in 
appearance, and differing in his apparel from the rest 
of the inhabitants, suddenly presented himself at the 
head of the colonial troops, and encouraged them by his 
advice and example to perseverance in defending the 
place. To his experience in military tactics and cour= 
age, in a great measure, was a defeat of the Indians at- 
tributable. When they retreated, the stranger disap- 
peared ; and in those times of superstition, it was verily 
believed by many that he was the guardian angel of the 
place. But he was no other than Col. Goffe, who see- 
ing the village in danger, left his concealment to unite 
with its inhabitants in a vigorous defence. 

In connection with the history of this place, the fol- 
lowing biographical sketch of Goffe, Whalley andDix- 
well may not prove uninteresting : 

On the restoration of the English monarch, Charles 
2d, in 1660, several of the judges who sat on the trial of 
Charles Ist^ ware 3el::ed, condemned and executed. 
Others, foreseeing th& result, escaped. Y7halley and 



HADLET. 



345 



Goffc, two of the number, came to Boston ; where, for 
a time, they received he hospitality due to their rank. 
But on learning that several of the regicides had been 
executed, and that Whalley and Goffe had not been 
included in the act of pardon, the people who had har- 
bored them began to be alarmed ; and the two judges 
abruptly departed for Connecticut. Subsequently, the 
King's proclamation was received, requiring their ap- 
prehension. They, however, eluded the vigilance of 
their pursuers, by secreting themselves in a cave and 
other secret places at New-Haven, where they continu- 
ed, between three and four years, until their retreat was 
discovered by the Indians. Finding that they could 
no longer remain at New-Haven in safety, and that a 
vigilant search for them was still continued, they re- 
solved to remove into a more secluded part of the coun- 
try. A friend had succeeded in inducing the Rev. Mr. 
Russell, of Hadley, to receive them; and after a toil- 
some journey by night, they reached his house in Octo- 
ber, 1664. In a chamber of this house, (which was sit- 
uate on the east side, and near the centre of the present 
main street,) having a secret passage to the cellar, they 
remained undiscovered for fifteen or sixteen years. 
During this period, Goffe held a correspondence with 
his wife in England, under an assumed name ; and in 
a letter of April, J 679, it is stated that Whalley had di- 
ed some time previous, at Mr. Russell's. His bones 
were discovered not many years since in a sort of tomb 
adjoining the cellar wall of Mr. Russell's house. 

Not long after Goffe and Whalley arrived at Hadley, 
iliey were joined by Col. John Dixwell, another of the 
judges. After remaining some time, he went to New- 

DD 



344 BR06KFIELD. 

Haven, assumed the name of Davids, was married, had 
several children, and his real name was not known un- 
til his death in 1689. He was buried in the church- 
yard at that place ; where a coarse ston:^ still marks 
the spot of his interment, with this inscription : " J. D. 
Esq. deceased, March IS, in the 82d year of his age — 
1688-9." 

After the death of Whalley, Goffe travelled to the 
south and no certain information relative to his fate has 
ever been obtained. 

From Hadley to Belchertown, a pleasant village, 
is 10 miles and from thence to 

Ware Factory Village, is 9 miles farther. This 
place, located on the Ware River, has attained to an 
astonishing growth within a short time. There are few 
places in the country exhibiting so barren and rugged a 
soil as the scite and lands adjacent to this flourishing 
little city in miniature. As you approach from the west 
or east, it bursts upon the view with its long range of 
manufactories, its neat white houses, and glittering 
spires, producing the same sensation in the bosom, as 
the prospect of a beautiful garden in the midst of a de- 
sert. It contains several public buildings which would 
be an ornament to our most flourishing inland towns of 
more ancient date. 

Broosfield, 8 miles from Ware, is ahandsome town, 
though very little improved by any recent additions of 
buildings. This place was burnt by the Indians in 
1675. On the first alarm the inhabitants, in all about 
70, repaired to a house slightly fortified externally with 
logs, and internally lined with feather beds, to check 



WORCESTER. 345 

she force of musketry. This spot was soon surround- 
ed by the enemy, and a constant fire poured upon it in 
all directions. But the well directed shots of the be- 
sieged kept the Indians at a considerable distance. 
Various devices were used by the latter for burning the 
building ; but their plans were thwarted by the whites, 
aided by a plentiful sliower of rain. The attack con- 
tinued for three days ; when the appearance of a body 
•of troops from Lancaster induced the Indians to seek 
their own safety in a precipitate retreat. All the build- 
ings in the village except the one fortified, were de- 
stroyed. Only one of the inhabitants, however, was 
killed ; while the loss of the Indians was 80. 

Leicester, 12 miles. The village contains an acad- 
emy, 3 churches and about 80 dwellings. The prin- 
cipal employment of the inhabitants is the manufacture 
of woollen and cotton cards ; of which a very large 
amount is annually made. 

Y/oRCESTER, (6 miles,) is one of the oldest and most 
respectable towns in the state. It contains from three 
to four hundred houses, generally well built. Here are 
also a bank, four printing offices, a court-house and a 
jail. A newspaper v.Iiich was commenced by Isaiah 
Thomas some time previous to the revolutionary war, is 
still published here, and is the oldest paper in the Un- 
ion. Mr. Thomas was the author of an elaborate his- 
tory of the art of printing, and continued to reside here 
until his decease, a short time since. He erected in the 
village, at a very considerable expense, a handsome 
building, for the reception of the library and cabinet of 
the American Antiquarian Society, of which he was 



346 BOSTON AND WORCESTER RAIL ROAD. 

president. The library consists of about 6000 volumes- 
many of them of great antiquity, and the cabinet is also 
very valuable. 

The Blackstone Canal commences at this place, 
and extends to Providence, R. I. Length 45 miles — 
expense rising of $500,000. 

The Boston and Worcester Rail Road was com- 
menced in August, 1832, and when completed, will 
constitute the usually travelled route between the two 
places. The line, as surveyed, passes from Worcester 
through Grafton, Westborough, Southborough, Hop- 
kinton, Framingham, Natick, Needham, Newton, and 
Brighton to Boston — distance 43| miles. Worcester is 
456 feet higher than Boston ; but the greatest descent 
in any one place is estimated at only 30 feet to the mile, 
and the average descent at 1 0|[ feet. The estimated 
cost is a little less than $1,000,000 ; and the amount of 
passengers v»hich will pass over the road annually, has 
been computed at 50,000. 

From Worcester to Boston, over the stage route, 
thp distance is 40 miles, through a rich country, va- 
riegated with villages, which increase in size and im- 
portance as the tourist advances towards the metrop- 
olis of the state. 

Boston, {See p. 371.) 



S^ROM SARATOGA SPUINCS TO BOSTON 



347 



Mites. 

Jeffrey,. 5 

New Tpswich, 10 

Townscnd, 12 

Pepperel, 6 

Groton, 3 

Littleton, 8 

Acton, 3 

Concord, 7 

Lexington,. 7 

Cambridge, 7 

Boston, 3 



FROM SARATOGA SPRINGS TO BOSTON. 

IQl miles. Intervening distances as follows 
Miles. 

Schuyler- Ville, 12 

Union village, 5 

Cambridge, 8 

Arlington, 12 

Manchester, 12 

Landsgrove, 15 

Chester, 15 

Bellows Falls, 14 

Walpole Village, 4 

Walpole, 4 

Keene, 14 

Marlborough, 5 

A stage leaves Saratoga Springs every morning 
(Sundays excepted) at 5 o'clock, reaching Manchester 
the first day, Keene the second, and Boston the third, 
to dine. Fare $7,50. 

ScHUTLER- Ville, 12 miles. (Sec ja. 178.) Passing 
across the vale where the surrender of Burgoyne took 
place to the river, (on the bank of which in a field ad- 
joining the road on the north, are seen the remains of 
an intrenchment,) the stage crosses it in a horse-boat. 

Union Village, 5 miles. The Battenkill river pass- 
es through the village, on the banks of which are seve- 
ral mills and factories. There are about 150 houses 
in the place ; and the number is constantly augment- 
ing. 

Cambridge and Arlington are good agricultural 
townships. In the latter place, the route, for a consid- 
erable distance is on the ban!: of tb.o Battenkill, near 
wb.ich are sovei-al valuable and extensive quarries of 

white marble. 

dd2 



348 MA^fCHESTER— BELLOWS FALLS. 

Manchester, 12 miles from Arlington, is a neat vil- 
lage, located near the foot of the Green Mountains, 
which are seen stretcliing to the north and south as far 
as the eye can extend. Leaving the village, the stage 
soon commences ascending the great natural barrier 
which separates the eastern and western sections of 
Vermont. No exertions have been spared to improve 
the road ; and it may be considered by far the best of 
any which crosses the mountain. The ascent, which is 
not precipitous, continues, with oocasional descents, 
for 10 or 12 miles before the summit is reached. Dur- 
ing the first six miles, a most extensive and variegated 
prospect at the west is enjoyed ; and after attaining the 
greatest elevation, this is suddenly exchanged for a 
prospect nearly co-extensive at the east. 

Chester, 30 miles from Manchester, is a pleasant 
village, situated on a handsome plain, and contains two 
churches, an excellent academy, and about 80- dwel- 
lings and stores. 

Bellows Falls, 14 miles, lies on the western bank 
of the Connecticut river. The village is flourishing, 
contains some very pleasant houses, a number of man- 
ufacturing establishments, and a beautiful church, 
which stands on an eminence, and is seen for some 
miles distant. 

A canal, having 9 locks, and affording v/ater for a 
number of mills, has been constructed around the falls. 
It is about half a mile in length. The whole descent 
of the river for this distance is 50 feet, and assumes 
the appearance of rapids rather than a cataract. Over 
the greatest descent, where the water is compressed 



WALPOLE. 34Sf 

by ledges of rocks to a very narrow space, a hand- 
some toll bridge is erected, 50 feet in height, from 
which the water is seen rushing through the pass with 
great rapidity, and dashing upon the rocks in the wild- 
est disorder — presenting a scene truly sublime and in- 
tei'esting. 

A short distance below the falls are two rocks con- 
taining specimens of Indian workmanship. On one of 
the rocks are the indistinct traces of a number of hu- 
man faces, represented by marks in the stone, and 
probably intended as a memorial of their deceased 
friends or chieftains. That this place was once the 
haunt of our savage predecessors, is evident from the 
arrow points and bits of their earthen pots and frag- 
ments of other utensils which may be found in a short 
walk over the adjacent fields.* 

On the New-Hampshire side is a chain of lofty 
mountains, which leave but a narrow passage between 
their base and the river. Around one of these impend- 
ing barriers the road winds its course to the pleasant 
village of 

Walpole, which contains about 100 houses, includ- 
ing some very handsome mansions. This place was 
the scene of many savage incursions during the French 
war. It was once in the entire possession of the Indi- 



+ From Bellows Falls, stages can be taken every day 
for Concord, N. H. and for Hartford, Conn. On the 
latter route, the course is generally near the bank of 
the Connecticut river, and through a most delightful 
country, interspersed with several elegant villages and 
country seats. 



350 KEENE— LEXINGTON. 

ans, and retaken from them by Col. Bellows, who made 
the first settlement in this part of the country. The 
scenery in this vicinity is remarkably striking and ro- 
mantic. Ten miles farther is the flourishing village of 

Keene. This is one of the handsomest villages in 
New-England, and is situated a few miles east of the 
Connecticut river. It contains about 300 dwellings, a 
bank, a court house and jail, 3 churches, and a pop- 
ulation of about 3000. For a distance of 40 miles from 
this place no .village of importance intervenes, though 
many handsome dwellings and rich farms are discov- 
ered on the route. 

Groton, 41 miles from Keene, is a pleasant village, 
containing about 100 houses and an academy ; seven 
miles from which is the town of 

Concord, rendered memorable as the place where 
the first efficient opposition w^as made to the British 
troops, in 1775. It is a large town, and contains many 
handsome dwellings. Eight miles from which is the 
town of 

Lexington, containing a few plain houses ; but cel- 
ebrated in history as the spot where the first American 
blood was shed in the struggle for Independence. This 
occurred on the 19th of April, 1775. A quantity of mil- 
itary stores had been collected at Concord, which the 
British General Gage proposed to destroy. Though se- 
cret in his operations, and though precaution had been 
taken the evening previous to scour the roads and se- 
cure such citizens as the British oflScers fell in with, yet 
the plan was discovered by Doctor Warren, of Boston, 
who sent out messengers to alarm the inhabitants and 



LEXINGTON. 351 

prepare them for resistance. On the arrival the next 
morning- at Lexington of the British troops, 8 or 900 
strong, it was found that the miUtia of the town, to the 
number of 70, were in arms. Major Pitcairn, who 
led the British van, ordered the " rebels" to disperse. 
Some scattering guns were fired, which were followed 
by a general discharge, and continued till the militia 
disappeared. Eight men were killed and several woun- 
ded.* 

The detachment then proceeded to Concord, a part of 
which took possession of two bridges beyond the town, 
while the remainder destroyed the military stores. A 
number of militia, who had collected in the vicinity, 
but with orders not to give the first fire, attempted to 
pass one of the bridges in the character of travellers. 
They were fired on, and two men killed. The fire was 
returned and a skirmish ensued, which resulted in the 
discomfiture of the regulars, and a precipitate retreat. 
Skirmishing continued during the day, and though the 
British received reinforcements, they were harrassed in 
their retreat to Bunker's Hill, where they remained se- 
cure under the protection of their ships of war. 

The loss of the British, during this day, in killed, 
wounded and prisoners, was 273 ; while that of the 
provincialists did not exceed 90. 

The blow thus struck was the precursor of more im- 
portant events, and was soon followed by the battle of 



* A handsome monument now marks the spot where 
this action was fought, beneath which are interred the 
remains of the Americans who were slain. 



352 FROM WHITEHALL TO BOSTON. 

Breed's or (as it is generally denominated) Bunker's 
Hill ; which is noticed in subsequent pages. 

Cambridge, is situated 7 miles from Lexington. It 
is a large and handsome town, but derives its impor- 
tance from Havard University, which is located here, 
and is one of the oldest and most celebrated literary in- 
stitutions in the United States. It takes it name from 
the Rev. John Harvard, who died in 1638, leaving to 
the institution a legacy of 779^. 17s. 2d. sterUng. The 
edifices belonging to the University are Harvard, Mas- 
sachusetts, Hollis, Stoughton, Holworthy and Univer- 
sity Halls, Holden Chapel, a new stone building re- 
cently erected, and 3 College houses, besides that for 
the President. These buildings are all situated in a 
spacious square, and are handsomely shaded with a 
variety of trees. There are annually educated here 
about 300 students. The amount of property belong- 
ing to the institution, it is said, falls little short of $800,- 
000. It contains an extensive philosophical aparatus, 
and a library of about 25,000 volumes. Cambridge 
contains 3 handsome villages, a court house, jail, state 
arsenal, 8 houses of public worship, and about 5000 in- 
habitants. 

Two miles from Cambridge is the city of Boston. 
The two places are connected by a bridge 3846 feet 
long and 40 wide, with a causeway of 3344 feet. The 
cost of the whole was $76,700. [For a description oj 
Boston, see p. 371.] 

FROM WHITEHALL TO BOSTON 178 milcS. 

A stage leaves Vv^hitehall daily, (Sundays excepted) 
passing through the villages of Castleton and Rutland^ 



FAIRHAVEN — CASTLETON. 353 

connecting at Chester with the route from Saratoga 
Springs, and reaches Boston the third day. 

Fairhaven, 9 miles from Whitehall, contains seve- 
ral mills and manufactories of iron, and about 50 houses. 

Castle TON, 5 miles farther, is a handsome village of 
about 100 houses, and contains a medical college and 
classical seminary, the latter located on an eminence 
south of the village, and commanding an extensive 
view of a rich and beautiful country. It is 160 feet in 
length and 40 in breadth, with projections in the cen- 
tre and ends of 46 and 55 feet, and is 3 stories high, 
exclusive of a basement. To the building is attached 
a play-ground of about six acres, a part of which is to 
be devoted to a garden. The course of instruction in 
this institution, which is liberally patronized, corres- 
ponds with that of the most favored seminaries of learn- 
ing in the country. 

About half a mile north of the village, at the junction 
of the Hubbardton with the main road, are slight re- 
mains of a fort and breast work, which were occupied 
during the revolutionary war; two miles north of which 
the Ilubbarton road passes over the ground where a se- 
vere action was fought between a detachment of Bur- 
goyne's army and a body of American troops. The 
latter composed the rear guard of the Americans 
which evacuated Ticonderoga in July, 1777, and were 
commanded by Col. Warner. They were about 1000 
strong ; and were overtaken by a force of nearly the 
same number under Gen. Frazer. A long, severe, and 
obstinate conflict ensued ; when the arrival of General 
Reidsell, with his division of Germans, compelled the 



354 FROM BURLINGTON TO BOSTON. 

Americans to give way in ail directions. The British 
loss was stated by Gen. Burgoyne at 35 killed and 144 
wounded; and the American loss was estimated by 
Gen. St. Clair at 50 killed and wounded. It is gene- 
rally supposed that the loss of both armies was much 
greater. 

The Americans retreated to the south, and took part 
in the Bennington battle on the 16th of August, and in 
the capture of Burgoyne at Sararoga in October fol- 
lowing. 

Rutland, 10 miles from Castleton, is the capital of 
Rutland county. It is situated 3 miles west of the 
Green Mountains, in view of Killington Peak, and for 
beauty of local situation is not surpassed by any village 
in the northern states. It contains about 200 houses, 
three churches, a bank, court house, and gaol. 

Ten miles from Rutland, in the town of Shrewsbury, 
the road reaches the foot of the Green Mountains, 
which are crossed in travelling 12 miles farther. No 
part of the passage is precipitous ; though the road is 
less pleasant than that leading from Manchester. (See 
p. 348.) 

Chester is 40 miles from Rutland ; from whence 
the route to Boston is the same as that noticed at page 
348. 

FROM BURLINGTON TO BOSTON, 

{through Windsor, Vt.) 
From Burlington, Vt. where the Champlain steam- 
boats touch in the passage up and down the lake, sta- 
ges depart for Boston three times a week, passing 
through Montpelier and Windsor, Vt., Claremont and 



BURLINGTON — MONTPELIER. 



355 



Amhorst, N. H., Billerica and Medford, Mass., and 
reach Boston on the third day. Distance 206 miles — 
Fare $8. The intervening distances arc as follows : 



Miles. 

Lempster, 15 

Washington, 7 

Hillsborough, 9 

Francistown, 9 

Mount Vernon, 9 

Amherst, 6 

Merrimack, 3 

Dunstable, . . , 7 

Tyngsborough, 6 

Chelmsford, 7 

Billerica, 4 

Wolburn, 9 

Boston, 10 



Miles. 

Williston, 8 

Richmond, 9 

Bolton, 2 

Waterbury, 8 

Moretown, 4 

Montpelier, 7 

Williamstown, 10 

Brookfield, 8 

Randolph, 12 

Royalton, 3 

Barnard, 6 

Woodstock, 8 

Windsor, 14 

Claremont, 9 

Burlington. (Seep. 331.) 

Montpelier, is situated on the Onion River, a little 
north of the centre of the state, 38 miles from Burling- 
ton. It is at present the seat of government, and has 
a state house, court house, gaol and 2 houses of public 
worship, besides a number of manufacturing establish- 
ments. It contains about 2000 inhabitants. 

With the exception of a narrow vale, through which 
the river passes, the village is surrounded by lofty hills 
and mountains, which give it the appearance of seclu- 
sion from the rest of the world. The road for several 
miles previous to reaching the village,'and after leaving 
it, is on the bank of the river, and the mountain scene- 
ry is unusually romantic. 

In passing from Montpelier to Randolph, the route is 
on what is termed the gulph road. This gulph is six 

EE 



356 RANDOLPH — WINDSOR. 

miles in extent, between lofty mountains, with barely 
a sufficient space for a road and the White river, a beau- 
tifully transparent stream, exhibiting, in most instan- 
ces, a bottom of white gravel. 

Randolph, 30 miles from Montpelier, is on a lofty 
ridge of land affording some of the finest farms in the 
state. The village is small, but much admired for its 
location and neatness. 

RoYALTON, 3 miles. A pleasant village. 

Woodstock, 14 miles, the capital of Windsor coun- 
ty, is a place of considerable business. The principal 
village, called Woodstock Green, is on the bank of the 
Clueechy river, and contains a bank, court house, jail, 
church and a marble factory — also an extensive manu- 
factory of scythes. 

W^iNDSOR, 14 miles, is a beautiful town on the west 
bank of the Connecticut. The houses exhibit a very 
neat and handsome appearance, and stand in a fertile 
and richly cultivated tract of country. It contains a 
bank. Female Seminary, a number of churches, and 
the Vermont Penitentiary. The bridge built across the 
Connecticut at this place is one of the handsomest on 
the river. Ascuinexj, a mountain in the southwest part 
of the town, is 1732 feet in height, and is well worthy 
the attention of those who take delight in the rich and 
diversified prospects afforded from mountain summits. 

At W^indsor, the route crosses the Connecticut river 
into New-Hampshire, and proceeds through a fertile 
country, occasionally interspersed with a pleasant vil- 
lage, to Boston. 



ROUTE TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 



357 



FROM BURLINGTON TO BOSTON, 

{By toay of the White Mountains and Concord, wWiw- 

Hampshire) — 275 miles.* 
The intermediate distances on this route are as fol- 
lows : 

Miles. 
Union Bridge,.... 7 
Winnepiseogee 

Bridge, 4 

Concord, 17-202 

Hookset, 8 

Amoskeag, 7 

Piscataqua, 2 

Merrimack, ...... 10 

Nashua, 6 

Tyngsboro', 8 

Lowell, 7 

By rail road. 
Boston, 25-275 





Miles. 


From Burlington to 


Montpelier, .. . . 


38 


Littleton, N. H. . . 


40 


E. A. Crawford's,. 


18 


Notch of the White 


Mountains,. . . . 


5 


Notch House,. . . . 


2 


Crawford's Farm, 


6 


Bartlett, 


7 


Conwav, 


10-126 


Six Mile Pond,... 


11 


Centre Harbor,.. . 


24 


Guilford, 


13 



* Strangers designing to proceed directly to Boston 
from Burlington, via Concord, N. H. without visiting 
the White Mountains, continue on tlie route from Mont- 
pelier to Randolph, as noticed at p. 356, and from thence 
to Hanover, 25 miles, and to (Concord 55 miles farther. 
(The route from the latter place to Boston is noticed at 
p. 367.) Hanover is located on a handsome plain, half 
a mile from the Connecticut river, and contains the 
buildings oi Dartmouth college and about SO dwelling 
houses. The college derives its name from YViUiam, 
Earl of Dartmouth, one of its principal benefactors. It 
was founded in 1769, by the late Doct. Eleazer Whee- 
lock, and is in a flourishing condition. A medical in- 
stitution is connected with the college, and is accom- 
modated with a brick edifice, containing, besides rooms 
for students, a laboratorv, anatomical museum, miner" 



358 WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

A stage can be taken at Burlington 3 times a week 
for Montpelier, Vt. distant 33 mile?, where it is re- 
commended to travellers to proceed to Littleton, N. H. 
40 miles east of Montpelier, from whence a stage 
passes twice a week through the J^otch of the White 
Mountains to Conway ; and from thence to Portland, 
(Maine,) throe times a week. From Littleton to Ethan 
A, Crawford's at the foot of the mountains, 18 miles, 
about half the distance is through a cultivated country ; 
but tlie remaining part is through an extensive, and, 
but for the road, an impenetrable forest. 

The first view of the White Mountains, as distin- 
guished from the multitude of peaks and summits 
which meet the eye in every direction, is obtained a 
short distance from Littleton ; but Mount Washington 
is not seen till arriving near to Crawford's. The first 
view of these mountains is magnificent, and as they 
are approached they become more and more so, until 
the bare bleak summit of Mount Washington, rising 
far above the immense piles which surround it, strikes 
the traveller with awe and astonishment. But the emo- 
tions which one receives from the grand and majestic 
scenery which surrounds him here, are utterly beyond 
the power of description. There is no single object 
upon which the eye rests and wliich the mind may 
grasp, but the vast and multiplied features of the land- 
.scape actually bewilder while they delight. 



alogical cabinet, library and lecture rooms. The num- 
ber of students educated at this college annuallv is be- 
tween 2 and 300. 



WHITE MOUMTAIKS. 359 

These mountains are the loftiest in the U. States east 
of the Rocky Mountains ; and their heights above the 
Connecticut river have been estimated as follows : 
Washington, 5350 ft. ; Jefferson, 5261 ; Adams, 5383 ; 
Madison, 5039 ; Monroe, 4932 ; auincy, 4470. From 
the summit of Mount Washington, the Atlantic ocean 
is seen at Portland, 65 miles S. E. ; the Katahdin 
Mountains to the N. E. near the sources of the Penob- 
scot river ; the Green Mountains of Vermont on the 
vilest 5 Mount Monadnock, 120 miles to the S.W.; and 
numerous lakes, rivers, &c. within a less circumference. 
The JVbic/i or Gap is on the west side of the mountains, 
and is a deep and narrow defile, in one place only 22 
feet wide. A road passes through, which is crossed by 
the river Saco ; into which several tributary streams 
enter from the mountain heights, forming many beau- 
tiful cascades. Lafayette Mountain is situated in the 
northeast part of the township of Franconia, nearly 
equidistant from Mount Washington at the northeast, 
and Moose-Hillock at the southwest, being about 20 
miles from each ; and it is obviously more elevated 
than any other suzninit in sight, except the White 
Mountains. 

At the Franconia Notch, near the road leading from 
Franconia to Plymouth, and about three miles south of 
Mount Lafayette, a foot path has been cleared out from 
the road to the top of the mountain. The point where 
the path commences is six miles from the Franconia 
iron works, and the length of it from the road to the 
summit is three miles ; and throughout this distance 
it is almost uniformly steep. The ascent for the dis- 
tance of about two miles is through a thick forest of 
ee2 



360 WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

hemlock, spruce, &c. Higher up, the mountain is en- 
compassed with a zone, about half a mile in width, cov- 
ered with stinted trees, chiefly hemlock and spruce. 
Above the upper edge of this zone, which is about half 
a mile from the top, trees and shrubs disappear. The 
summit is composed chiefly of bare rocks, partly in 
large masses, and partly broken into small pieces. 

The view from the top is exceedingly picturesque 
and magnificent. Although it is not so extensive as 
that from the summit of Mount Washington, yet ow- 
ing to the more advantageous situation of Lafayette, 
being more central as it respects this mountainous re- 
gion, it is not inferior to it either in beauty or grandeur. 
The view to the northeast, east, south and southwest, 
is one grand panorama of mountain scenery, present- 
ing more than fifty summits, which when viewed from 
this elevation do not appear to differ greatly in height. 
Some of these mountains are covered with verdure to 
the top, while the summits of others are composed of 
naked rocks ; and down the sides of many of them 
may be seen slides or avalanches of earth, rocks and 
trees more or less extensive, which serve to diversify 
the scene. The only appearance of cultivation in this 
whole compass is confined to a few farms seen in a di- 
rection west of south, on the road to Plymouth, extend- 
ing along the Pemigewasset branch of the Merrimack. 
To the west is seen the territorj' watered by the Con- 
necticut and the Ammonoosuck. 

At a place in the road through the Franconia Notch 
where the path up the mountain commences, is exhi- 
bited to the view of the traveller, on the mountain 
opposite to Lafayette, the Profile or the Old Man of the 



WHITE MOUNTAINS. 361 

Mountain, a singular hisus nature, and a remarkable 
curiosity. It is situated on the brow of the peak or 
precipice, which rises alinost perpendicularly from the 
surface of a small lake, directly in front to the height 
(as estimated) of from 600 to 1000 feet. The front of 
this precipice is formed of solid rock, but as viewed 
from the point where the profile is seen, the whole of it 
appears to be covered with trees and vegetation, ex- 
cept about space enough for a side view of the Old 
Man's bust. All the principal features of the human 
face, as seen in a profile, are formed with surprising 
exactness. The little lake at the bottom of the preci- 
pice is about half a mile in length, and is one of the 
sources of the Pemigewassat river. Half a mile to the 
north of this, there is another lake, surrounded with 
romantic scenery, nearly a mile in length, and more 
than half a mile in breadth. This is one of the sources 
of the southern branch of the Ammonoosuck, which 
flows into the Connecticut. These lakes are both sit- 
uated in the Notch, very near the road, and near to 
the point where the steep ascent of Mount Lafayette 
commences. The northern lake is 900 feet above the 
site of the Franconia iron works, and the highest point 
in the road through the Notch is 1028 feet above the 
eame level. Other curiosities in this vicinity are, the 
Basin and the Pulpit. 

A portion of the Gap, including the Notch in the 
White Mountains, which is the most subhme and inter- 
esting, is about 5 or 6 miles in length. It is composed 
of a double barrier of mountains, rising very abruptly 
from both sides of the wild roaring river Saco, which 
frequently washes the feet of both barriers. Sometimes 



362 WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

there is not room for a single carriage to pass between 
the stream and the mountains, and the road is cut into- 
the mountain itself. This double barrier rises on each 
side to the height of nearly half a mile in perpendicular 
altitude, and is capped here and there by proud castel- 
lated turrets, standing high above the continued ridges. 
These are not straight, but are formed into numerous 
zig-zag turns, which frequently cut off the view and 
seem to imprison the traveller in the vast, gloomy gulf. 
The sides of the mountains are deeply furrowed and 
scarred by the tremendous effects of the memorable 
deluge and avalanches of 1826. No tradition existed 
of any slide in former times, and such as are now ob- 
served to have formerly happened, had been complete- 
ly veiled by forest growth and shrubs. At length, on 
the 28th of June, two months before th e/a?a^ avalanche, 
there was one not far from the Willcy house, which 
so far alarmed the family, that they erected an encamp- 
ment a little distance from their dwelling, intending it 
as a place of refuge. On the fatal night, it was impen- 
etrably dark and frightfully tempestuous ; the lonely 
family had retired to rest, in their humble dwelling, six 
miles from the nearest human creature. The avalan- 
ches descended in every part of the gulf, for a distance 
of two miles ; and a very heavy one began on the 
mountain top, immediately above the house, and de- 
scended in a direct line tov.^ards it ; the sweeping tor- 
rent, a river from the clouds, and a river full of trees, 
earth, stones and rocks, rushed to the house and mar- 
vellously divided within six feet of it, and just behind 
it, and passed on either side, sweeping away the stable 
and horses, and completely encircling the dwelling, but 
leaving it untouched. At this time, probably towards 



WHITE MOUNTAINS. 363 

midnight, (as the state of the beds and apparel, &c. 
shewed that they had retired to rest,) the family issued 
from the house, and were swept away by the torrent. 

Search, for two or three days, was made in vain for 
the bodies, when they were at length found. They 
were evidently floated along by the torrent and covered 
by the drift wood. A pole, with a board nailed across 
it, like a guide post, now indicates the spot where the 
bodies were found. Had the family remained in the 
house they would have been entirely safe. Even the 
little green in front and east of the house was undis- 
turbed, and a flock of sheep, (a part of the possession 
of the family) remained on this small spot of ground, 
and were found there the next morning in safety — al- 
though the torrent dividing just above the house, and 
forming a curve on both sides, had swept completely 
around them, again united below, and covered the 
meadows and orchard with ruins, which remain there 
to this day. Nine persons were destroyed by this ca- 
tastrophe, and the story of their virtues and their fate 
is often told to tlie traveller by the scattered popula- 
tion of these mountaiii vallies, in a style of simple 
pathos and minuteness of detail, which has all the in- 
terest of truth and incident of romance in its recital. 
The scene of this disaster Avas about 7 miles from 
Ethan A. Crawford's, and 2 miles from the commence- 
ment of the Notch, where Thomas Crawford, a brother 
of Ethan, now resides. 

The number of visitors to the White Mountains has 
been considerably increased, on account of the interest 
existed by these avalanches. The most sublime views of 
them, (several of which are nearly equal to the memO' 



364 WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

rable one which swept away the unfortunate "VVillejr 
family,) may be seen all along for several miles, in 
passing through the Notch. They are also observed 
from various points in the country around, extending 
down the sides of many of the elevated mountains ; 
and the astonishing effects of this extraordinary inun- 
dation are also witnessed in the great enlargement of 
the channels of the streams which rise in these clusters 
of mountains. This is the fact especially with regard to 
the channel of the principal branch of the Ammonoo- 
suck, wliich rises near the summit of Mount Washing- 
ton. 

The camp which was built by Mr. Crawford for the 
accommodation of visitors over night, two miles and 
a quarter from the summit of Mount Washington, was 
situated near this branch, and was carried awa) by 
Ihe swelling of the stream. A small camp has been 
erected in its place, but it is of little use, and affords no 
accommodations for lodging visitors over night. 

The distance from Crawford's house to the summit 
of Mount Washington, is nine miles. Through a part 
of this distance a carnage road is new made, leaving 
only 4 or 5 miles to be ascended on foot. The time 
usually occupied in ascending the mountain, reckoning 
from the time of leaving Crawford's house to the time 
of returning to it again, is from ten to fourteen hours ; 
and the shortest time in which the enterprise has been 
performed is about eight hours. 

Continuing the route through the Notch, the first 
house reached, is the Elder Crawford's, six miles from 
the " Notch house," as that once occupied by the un- 
fortunate Wjllov is called. From thence to Bartlett is 



FRYEBtJRCH — FROM CONWAT TO CONCORD. 365 

seven miles. From this place to Conway, which is ten 
miles, there arc more appearances of cultivation, par- 
ticularly in the little valley through which the road pass- 
es. The country around, however, is still wild and 
unimproved, displaying a succession of bold and lofty 
mountain scenery. The prospect at the village of 
Conway is bounded on the north and west by high 
mountains, and the several summits of the White Moun- 
tains, rising at 30 miles distant, are more easily distin- 
guished than at any point near them. 

Frteburch, in Maine, is 10 miles from Conway, 
and is generally taken in the route to the White 
Mountains from the east. It is a considerable villa sre, 
built upon a wide plain upon two broad streets, and 
has a respectable academy. It is chiefly interesting 
as being associated with the early history of our country. 
About a mile from the village is Lovell's pond, the scene 
of the bloody fight in 1725 between a gallant band of 
Americans under Capt, Lovell, and the remnant of the 
Pequawket tribe under the renowned Chief Paugus. 
From Fryeburgh to Portland, distant 52 miles, the road 
is over a dull and uninteresting country; but travellers 
designing to visit that place in connection with the 
White Mountains, will find it the most direct route. 
[For a description of Portland, see the route from Boston 
to that place in subsequent pages.] 

FROM CONWAY TO CONCORD, N. H. 76 MILES. 

Returning to Conway, and proceeding on the route 
to Concord, Six Mile Pond is passed in going 11 miles, 
and Centre Harbor is reached in going 24 miles farther. 



366 CENTRE HARBOR. 

The road for 20 or 30 miles, is through a valley border- 
ed with lofty mountains, exhibiting only an occasional 
settlement. 

Centre Harbor is on Lake Winnipiseogec,"*= the 
largest lake in the state. It is 23 miles long and from 
6 to 14 broad, and is remarkable for its beautiful and 
sublime scenery. It discharges its waters through the 
Winnipiseogce river into the Merrimack, 232 feet below 
the lake. From the top of Red Mountain in Centre 
Harbor, 1500 feet high, and which is accessible for 
about two thirds of the way in a carriage, there is an 
extensive prospect. At the distance of 70 miles to the 
southwest, may be seen Mount Monadnock ; at the 
west, the Kyarsage and Simson mountains ; at the 
northwest the Moose-Hillock ; at the north, the Sand- 
wich mountains, with the Squam lake intervening ; at 
the southeast, the Winnipiseogce lake, with its numer- 
ous islands, bays, and the mountains which rise from 
its borders, including Ossippce on the northeast, Gun- 
stock on the south, and a semi-circular mountain at the 
termination of the lake at the southeast ; the whole 
forming a vast billowy ocean of lofty mountains, with 
their grand intersecting curves, exhibiting a complete 
panorama of the sublimest mountain scenery. 



* It is in contemplation to place a steam boat on this 
lake, to run from Centre Harbor to Alten Bay, thus 
substituting a water communication of 25 miles, instead 
of 30 miles of laborious land carriage. It would open 
aneasy route fi'om Boston and Portsmouth, N. H, to 
ihe White Mountains. 



SQUAM LAKE — CONCORD. 367 

Squam Lake, which hes west of the mountain, is 10 
miles long and 5 wide, and like the Winnipiseogee, is 
sprinkled with numerous small and bcautitul islands. 
The finest of trout are caught in these lakes, and their 
shores abound with an abundance of game, affording 
to the angler and fowler ample means of employment 
as well as amusement. 

The route from Centre Harbor to Concord, 41 miles, 
passes through an interesting country, affording a view 
of several flourishing manufacturing villages. 

CoNCOHD is the capital of New-Hampshire. The 
village is principally composed of two streets on the 
v/est bank of the Merrimack river, and contains a state 
house, state prison, town house, bank, several church- 
es, 4 or 5 printing offices, and about 250 dwelUng-hous- 
es. The state house, located near the centre of the 
village, is an elegant building of hewn granite, 100 
feet long, with a large hall on the first floor, and the 
senate and representatives' chambers on the second. 
The building is surrounded by a spacious yard, which 
is enclosed by a handsome wall. The state prison, 
a strong building, is a short distance from the state 
house. 

The Merrimack river is navigable for large boats 
from Concord to Chelmsford ; from whence to Boston 
the communication is continued in the Middlesex canal, 
28 miles long. 

FROM CONCORD TO BOSTON — 73 miies. 
Stages leave Concord every day, passing through 
Hook set, Amoskeag, Piscataqua, Merrimack, Nashua, 
and Tyngsboro' to Lowell, from whence a rail road 

FF 



368 LOWELL. 

will shortly be taken to Boston. The route is mostly 
along the bank of the Merrimack river ; which, owing 
to its rapid descent, affords many important manufac- 
turing facilities. 

Nashua, 33 miles from Concord, is the most impor- 
tant village between that place and Lowell. It is con- 
nected with the Merrimack river by means of a ca- 
nal, 1^ miles long, and contains several manufactories 
and about 3000 inhabitants. 

Lowell, 15 miles from Nashua, is one of the largest 
manufacturing towns in the U. States. It is located on 
the Merrimack river and the Middlesex canal leading 
to Boston. The falls of the river at this place are 30 
feet and afford the most ample means for extensive op- 
erations by water power. The village and the first fac- 
tory were commenced in 1813, and the place now as- 
sumes the character of a large bustling town, laid into 
streets with much taste and elegance, and the whole 
appearance of the place is rendered peculiarly interest- 
ing from the magnificent and numerous factories and 
public buildings with which it is adorned. Its popula- 
tion at the census in 1830, was 6,474, and in 1835, 12,- 
363. 

As this place has been not inaptly termed the "Man- 
chester of America," the following sketch of the pres» 
ent state of its manufactures of cotton and woollexi 
goods may prove acceptable to the tourist. It is ex- 
tracted from the Lowell Journal. 

" The whole amount of capital at present invested^ 
is $6,150,000. The number of large mills in actual 
operation is nineteen. These mills are each about ont 



LOWELL. 369 

hundred and fifty-seven feet in length and forty-five in 
breadth — of brick, five stories high, each story avera- 
ging from ten to thirteen feet liigh, thus giving opportu- 
nity for a free circulation of air. The aggregate num- 
ber of spindles used is 84,000 — looms 3000. The whole 
number of operatives employed is about 5000, of which 
1200 are males, 3800 are females. The quantity of 
raw cotton used in these mills per annum, exceeds 
80,000,000 pounds or 20,000 bales. The number of 
yards of cotton goods of various qualities manufactured 
annually is about 27,000,000. Were the different pie- 
ces united, they would reach to the distance of 15,300 
miles ! In this estimate is included about 2,000,000 
yards of coarse mixed cotton and woollen negro cloth- 
ing, in the manufacture of which about 80,000 pounds 
of wool are used per annum. 

" The quantity of wool, manufactured annually into 
cassimeres, is about 150,000 pounds, making about 150,- 
000 yards. 

" The Lowell Carpet Manufactory is in itself a curi- 
osity. Sixty eight looms are kept in operation by hand 
labor, viz. fifty for ingrained or Kidderminster car- 
peting, ten for Brussels, and eight for rugs of various 
kinds. One hundred and forty thousand pounds of 
wool in the course of a year are manufactured into rich 
and beautiful carpets, the colors of which will vie with 
any imported. The number of yards of carpeting made 
per annum is upwards of one hundred and twenty thou- 
sand, besides rugs. The operatives at present employ- 
ed in all these mills receive for their labor about one 
million two hundred thousand dollars per annum. 



370 LOWELL. 

" The Lawrence Company has now but one mill in 
operation. One other is erected which will be in ope- 
ration in a short time. The foundations of two others 
are laid which will be ready to go into operation in the 
course of this year, (1834). These mills contain about 
16,500 additional spindles for cotton, and 550 looms, 
and will use 2,500,000 lbs. of raw cotton annually, fur- 
nishing employment for 700 operatives. 

*' The Middlesex Company has lately erected anoth- 
er mill, for the manufacture of cassimeres and broad- 
cloths, which is said to be one of the first manufactur- 
ing edifices in the United States. It is one hundred 
and fifty-three feet in length, by forty-six, and six sto- 
ries high. It contains 2,880 spindles, and sixty-four 
looms for cassimeres, and forty for broad cloths. It 
works up about 300,000 lbs. of wool annually, and em- 
ploys about two hundred and seventy-five operatives. 

" The edifice in which all the machinery employed in 
the mills is manufactured, is termed the 'Machine 
Shop,' belonging to the Locks and Canal Company, 
and is probably the largest ' shop' in the country, be- 
ing built of brick, four stories high, two hundred and 
twenty feet in length and forty-five feet in width. 

" The great water-power is produced by a canal a 
mile and a half long, sixty feet wide, and eight feet 
deep from its commencement above the head of Paw- 
tucket falls on the Merrimack, to its termination in 
Concord river. The entire fall is thirty-tvvo feet. The 
water is taken from this canal by smaller canals, and 
conveyed to the factories, and thence into the Merri- 
mack. There are room and water power sufiicient for 
fifty additional factories," 



The Boston and Lowell Rail Road is now in ac^ 
live progress, and will soon be completed, affording an 
easy and expeditious route to the metropolis of the 
state. It commences at the basin of the canal in Low- 
ell, and crosses the Charles river at Boston over a 
wooden viaduct, on the west side of Warren bridge. 
The length of the road is 25 miles, and the inclination 
on no part of the route exceeds 10 feet in a mile. For 
the present, there will be but a single track, with the 
necessary number of turn outs ; but provision is made 
for another track, if required. The materials employed 
are principally stone and iron, and the workmanship 
is highly creditable to the company and to the individ- 
uals engaged in the construction. The travel and 
transportation on the road must necessarily be great ; 
and there can scarcely remain a doubt that it will prove 
a profitable investment to the stockholders. 

Medford, 4 miles from Boston, is on the Mystic 
river ; 3 miles from which is the handsome village of 

Charlestown. (Seep. 331.) One mile farther the 
Charlestown bridge intervening, is the 

CITY OF BOSTON,* 

Which is pleasantly situated at the bottom of Mas- 
sachusetts Bay, on a peninsula of an uneven surface, 
two miles long, and in the widest part about one mile 
broad. The town owes its origin to a spirit of civil and 



* Bo wen's Picture of Boston, published by A, Bow- 
en, No. 2, Congress street, will prove a valuable guide 
to strangers visiting that city and its environs. 
ff2 



religious liberty, which was excited to action by the 
persecutions that prevailed in England during the 
reigns of Clueen Ehzabeth, and Kings James and 
Charles the First. Most of those who can properly be 
considered as first settlers arrived prior to the year 
1643. The place was first called Trimountain, in con- 
sequence of three hills which were on the peninsula. 
It was afterwards called Boston, in honor of the Rev. 
Mr. Cotton, a minister of the first church in the town, 
and whose native place was Boston in England. 

The harbor is one of the best in the United States. 
It has a sufficient depth of water for the largest vessels 
at all times of tide, and is accessible at all seasons of 
the year. It is safe from every wind, and so capacious 
that it will allow 500 vessels to ride at anchor, while 
the entrance is so narrow as scarcely to admit two 
ships abreast. It contains about 75 square miles, with- 
in which are upwards of 100 islands or rocks ; and re- 
ceives within its bosom the waters of the Mystic, 
Charles, Neponset and Manatticut rivers, besides sev- 
eral streams of less magnitude. 

Boston is very extensively engaged in commerce, and 
there are probably few cities in the world where there 
is so much wealth in proportion to the population. 
The trade, too, received from an extensive inland coun- 
try, is very great, the facilities for approaching the city 
being rendered easy by means of excellent roads. 

The appeai-ance of Boston is much admired by stran- 
gers, particularly when approaching from the sea. Its 
streets do not exhibit so great a regularity as some oth- 
er cities ; but its beautiful location and elegant public 
and private buildings, together with its richly ornamen- 



tai grounds ibr promenading, render it altogether a pe* 
euliarly delightful and attractive place. 

The city is divided into four local districts, called 
North Boston, West Boston, South End and South 
Boston ; and its population in 1830 M'as 61,392. From 
Copp's Hill, in North Boston, which is partly occupied 
for a church yard, the British cannonaded the town of 
Charlestown in 3775, during the battle of Bunker Hill, 
when the village was mostly destroyed by conflagra- 
tion. 

In the south-western part of the city, and in front of 
the state house, is the celebrated Common, presenting 
an area of about 50 acres, containing the Mall, a very 
beautiful public walk, adorned with rows of trees. This 
is a delightful promenade during the summer months, 
and is a place of general resort. In the centre of the 
Common is an eminence still exhibiting marks of the 
fortification erected by the British here during the 
revolution ; north of which is the Crescent Pond, a 
beautiful sheet of water, surrounded with trees. Near 
the Mall, in Mason street, is the Medical college, an 
edifice belonging to the Harvard University, surmount- 
ed by a dome with a pky-light and balustrade. 

The Boston Jitheneiim is located near the head of 
Pearl street, and is a very spacious building, containing 
appropriate rooms. The number of volumes attached 
to the institution is about 30,000. It also contains 
nearly 14,000 medals and coins, some of which are ve- 
ry rare and interesting. The rooms are open from 8 
A. M. to 9 P. M. and can be visited by strangers intro- 
duced by subscribers. 



Jj?4 BOSTON'. 

The Gallery of Fine Arts is a handsome structure ill 
the rear of the Atheneum, and is appropriated for sci- 
entific lectures, the Academy of Arts and Sciences, the 
Massachusetts Ixledical Library, a philosophical appa- 
ratus of the Mechanic Institution, and for paintings; 
the latter of which are exhibited in the upper story, and 
are generally \^ery elegant. 

Among the other literary institutions in the city are 
the Massachusetts Historical Society, who have an ex- 
tensive library in a spacious apartment over the arch in 
Franklin street ; the Boston Librarij Society, who have 
a collection of 7000 volumes ; and the Columbian Li' 
brary, which contains about 4500 volumes. There are 
also numerous other libraries of less note. Among the 
benevolent institutions are the House of Industry at 
South Boston, of rough dimension stone, 220 feet long, 
and 43 wide ; the Massachusetts General Hospital, 
founded in ISIS, which has been richly endowed by the 
state and individuals ; and a Hospital for the Insane, 
the buildings of which are at Charlestown. 

The first houses built in the city were plain, and the 
streets narrow and crooked ; but a ^ew years have 
wrought a strikiiig and almost incredible change ; new 
streets have been laid out, old ones straightened and 
improved, and neat brick and granite dwellings have 
been substituted for the ill-sliapea and decaying houses 
of wood. The private buildings, and many of the 
stores recently erected, are more splendid than in any 
other city of the United States. In 1317, there was 
erected on each side of Market street, a block of brick 
stores more than 400 feet in length, and 4 stories high ; 
and on Central Wharf another immense pile of build- 



BOSTON. 375 

rags was completed the came year, 1 240 feet long, con- 
taining 54 stores 4 stories high, having a spacious hall 
in the centre, over which is erected an elegant obser- 
vatory. Other costly works have been constructed 
which do honor to the town ; but the project which ex- 
ceeded them all in boldness of design, in promise of 
public benefit, and in energy of execution, is that which 
W'ithin a few years has been accomplished in the vi- 
cinity of Fanned Hall Market. The extensive rows 
of granite stores, four stories high, constructed after 
the best model, bound this newly perfected enterprise. 
Between these two ranges of stores stands the new 
Market House, at the distance of 102 feet from those 
on the south side, and 65 feet from the north. The 
centre part of the building is 74 by 55 feet, having a 
hall in the second story. The wings are each 231 feet 
long by 50 wide, and two stories high. They have each 
a portico of four columns, 23 feet high ; the shafts of 
granite in a single piece. The construction of the whole 
is of hammered granite of a uniform color. 

Among the public buildings are the State House, 
which is built on elevated ground, commanding a fine 
view of the surrounding country, and containing an 
elegant statue of Washington, which cost $15,000 ; the 
new county Court House, built of stone at an expense 
of v$93,000 ; the municipal Court House ; a new stone 
Jail ; Fanueil Hall, where all public meetings of the 
citizens are held ; two Theatres, one of which (the Tre- 
raont) was erected in 1827, at a cost of about ^120,000, 
being 135 feet in length and about 80 m breadth, the 
front of Hallowell and Q,uincy granite, in imitation of 
the Ionic order, with four pilasters supporting an entab- 



376 BOSTON. 

lature and pediment, and elevated on a basement of 17 
feet ; the Custom House, City Hall, Merchant's Hall, 
Masonic Temple, Boylston Market and Boylston Hall ; 
U. S. Branch Bank ; Concert, Julian, Corinthian, Pan- 
theon and Washington and Chauncey Halls. 

Bridges. — There are seven_ bridges connecting Bos- 
ton with the adjacent towns. Charles River bridge, 
which connects it with Charlestown on the north, 1503 
feet long ; Warren bridge, nearly parallel with the for- 
mer, and also running to Charlestown, 1420 feet long, 
on piers and Macadamized, at the end of which the 
Lowell rail road terminates ; West Boston bridge, con- 
necting it with Cambridge Port on the west, 7810 feet 
long ; Cragie's Canal bridge, between the last two, 
connecting it with Lechmere Point, 2796 feet longj and 
two bridges uniting it to South Boston. The other ave- 
nue is a mill dam, nearly two miles long and fifty feet 
wide, across the bay on the southwest side of the city ; 
which not only furnishes a bridge, but puts in operati&n 
extensive tide-mills and other water works. This dam 
was built in 1823-4, and cost upwards of $600,000. 
There is a branch from Craige's bridge also, which runs 
to Charlnstovvn Point, near the Massachusetts state 
prison. 

Churches. — There are nearly 50 churches in Boston, 
many of which have been built at great expense, and 
are very elegant. On one of the quoins at the south- 
west corner of the Brattle street church, of which Gov. 
Hancock was a benefactor, his name had been inscrib- 
ed ; but it was effaced by the British soldiery during 
the revolution, and the stone ha3 been permitted to re- 
xnain as they left it. A shot from tho Americana on 



BOBTOH. 377 

the night previous to the evacuation of Boston by tho 
British, still remains in the tower where it originally 
struck. In St. Paul's church, in Common street, there 
is an elegant monument to the memory of Gen. War- 
ren, who was slain on Bunker Hill, and whose remains 
are entomed in the cemetry beneath this church. 

Burial Grounds. — In the Chapel burial ground, north 
of the stone chapel, there are several ancient monu- 
ments ; and among others that of Gov. Winthrop, who 
died in 1649. In the Copp's Hill ground similar me- 
mentoes of antiquity are found. In the Granary ground, 
the cenotaph erected to the memory of Doct. Franklin 
stands over the tomb, in which repose the remains of 
both his parents. The tombs of Governors BeUingham, 
Sumner and Sullivan are also in this ground. 

The J^eiv-England Museum, in Court street, is prob- 
ably the best in the United States, and should be visited 
by every stranger before leaving the city. 

Hotels, — Tremont House is the most superb hotel in 
Boston, and not inferior to any in the Union. It is 
three stories high in front and four on the wings, ex- 
clusive of the basement. The front and two circular 
ends facing Beacon street, and the open ground south 
of the building, are of Gluincy granite, and surmounted 
by an entablature, supported by antes at each extreme 
ity. The portico, which is of the same material, is 37 
feet long by 7 feet in width, and 25 feet high. Four 
fluted columns support the roof of the portico, the pro- 
portions of which are copied from those of the Doric 
portico at Athens, with the exception that the portico 
of the Tremont House di-triglyph, the inter columnia- 
tions being nearly equal. The whole number of roomg 



378 BOSTON. 

is one hundred and eighty ; and the principal entrance 
is nearly opposite the Tremont theatre. From the look- 
out above the roof of this structure, an extensive and 
beautiful landscape, comprising a view of the harbor 
and the amphitheatre of hills to the west, and of the 
towns of Charlestown and Chelsea to the north, pre- 
sents itself. 

The other principal pubhc houses are the Exchange 
Coftee House, an excellent establishment, New-Eng- 
land Coftee House, Franklin House, Fulton House, 
Marlboro' Hotel, Commercial Coffee House, City Tav- 
ern, Washington Coffee House, Bromfield House, 
Merchants' Hotel and La Fayette Hotel. 

The Hancock House, the former residence of Gov. 
Hancock, is still in good preservation in Beacon street, 
near the state house. There are also several ancient 
buildings in the vicinity of Ann street and Market 
square ; in one of which, opposite the Golden Key, a 
relative of Doct. Franklin formerly resided, to whom 
he was in the habit of paying frequent visits. 

The number of stage coaches which regularly leave 
Boston, is much larger than that of any other place in 
the Union. There are between eighty and ninety dis- 
tinct lines of stages ; which, according to their estab- 
lished arrangements, not including extras, make about 
125 departures and as many arrivals daily, or more 
than 1500 departures and arrivals each week. For the 
benefit of public houses and travellers, a Stage Register 
is published, once m two months, by Messrs. Badger 
and Porter, 63 Court street, containing an account of 
the principal lines of stages, steam boats and canal 
packets in JNew-EngUnd and New- York. 



MOUNT ADBORN — QUINCT. S79 

The country around Boston is the adniiration of eve- 
ry traveller of taste. The view from the dome of the 
Gtate house surpasses any thing of the kind in this coun- 
try, and is not excelled by that from the castle hill of 
Edinburgh, or that of the Bay of Naples from the cas- 
tle of St. Elmo. Here may be seen at one view, the 
shipping, the harbor, variegated with islands and alive 
with business ; Charles river and its l)eautiful country, 
ornamented with elegant private mansions ; and more 
than twenty flourishing towns. The hills are finely 
cultivated, and rounded by the hand of nature with sin- 
gular felicity. 

Mount Auburn. Every traveller of taste should 
visit the nev/ cemetry at Mount Auburn, in Cambridge, 
5 miles from Boston. It is the pere la chaise of this 
country, and is situated in one of the most delightful 
spots ever selected for the repose of the dead. The 
grounds are very extensive, comprising every variety of 
hill and dale, covered with trees and shrubbery of al- 
most every kind. There are numerous "avenues" for 
carriages, and " paths" for pedestrians, designated by 
botanical names. The interments as yet have been 
very few ; though the lots are all laid out, and many of 
them finished. Miss Hannah Adams, the historian of 
the Jews, was the first tenant of Mount Aubui-n. She 
died in December, 1831. Nature made this retreat ro- 
mantic — art has rendered it beautiful, — the Creator 
formed it lovely — man has made it sacred ! 

GluiNCT is 10 miles from Boston, in a southerly direc- 
tion. About half a mile northwest of the village is the 
mansion of the late John Adams, the second president 

GO 



380 DORCHESTER. 

of the U. States. His remains and those of his wife 
repose beneath the new church at duincy, within which 
a handsome monument to their memory has been erect- 
ed by the late president, John duincy Adams, with a 
suitable inscription. 

The southwest part of the town is mostly composed 
of inexhaustible beds of granite, for the transportation 
of which a RAIL- WAT has been constructed from the 
beds to tide water, 3 miles long. For a great part of 
the distance it is on an inclination of one and a half 
inch to the rod, and the ordinary load drawn by a horse 
is between 8 and 9 tons. It will be found an object 
worthy the attention of strangers. 

Dorchester, is an ancient town, about ^J miles 
south of Boston, having been settled in 1630, soon af- 
ter Plymouth and Salem. The roads are numerous and 
crooked, but mostly level and kept in good repair. 
Many fine country seats and substantial farm houses 
are thickly arranged on their sides. They have a town 
house, three congregational churches, and one for 
methodists. The population is about 4000. The pe- 
ninsula, called Dorchester Neck, borders on Boston 
harbor, and a part of it is incorporated with the town of 
Boston. Savin Hill, in this town, is a place of consid- 
erable resort, and the peninsula of Squantum is famous 
for its yearly feast of shells. On the 4th of Marcli, 
1776, 1200 men, sent by Gen. Washington, threw up 
works on Dorchester Heights in the night, which com- 
manded Boston harbor and drove the British army 
away. Traces of these woiks still remain. 



CHARLESTOWN. 381 

Brighton, 5 miles west of Boston, was formerly a 
part of Cambridge, and lies between that place and 
Brookline. Here is held the famous Cattle Fair, which 
was commenced during the revolutionary war, and has 
been increasing in importance ever since. Most of the 
cattle for the supply of the Boston market are brought 
in droves to this place ; often from 2 to 3000 a week ; 
every Monday is the fair day, when the dealers resort 
thither to make their purchases. 

Watertown is on Charles river, 7 miles northwest 
from Boston, and is the seat of several extensive manu- 
facturing establishments. The provincial congress sat 
here in 1775, and were in session during the battle of 
Bunker Hill. The United States have an Arsenal es- 
tablished in this town. Fresh Pond, one of the most 
enchanting retreats in the vicinity of the metropolis, 
lies partly in this town and partly in Cambridge. 

Cambridge, 2 miles west of Boston. {See p. 352.) 

Charlestown, is a place of singular shape, extend- 
ing in a northwesterly direction from Boston harbor, 
about 9 miles in length, and not averaging a breadth of 
one mile, and in some parts it is not a quarter of a mile 
wide. The compact part of the town is situated on a 
peninsula next to Boston, and is laid out in regular 
streets. Charlestown contains a population of near 
9000. It has five houses of public worship, three banks, 
a spacious alms house, and a handsome market house. 
Besides Charles River and Prison Point bridges, which 
connect this town with Boston, there is Chelsea bridge 
on the^Salem turnpike, and rtlalden bridge, both over 
'i?.e Mystic river. Breed's Hill and Bunker's Hill botU 



382 breed's hill. 

lie within this peninsula ; the former is 62 feet in height, 
the latter 110 feet. The U. S. Navy Yard, in this town, 
consists of about 60 acres of land, on which are built a 
large brick ware house, several arsenals, magazines for 
various kinds of stores, and a large brick mansion 
house for the superintending officer. The Dry Dock in 
this yard, lately completed, is the finest in the Uni- 
ted States. Its cost has been about half a million 
of dollars. The State Prison is at the west end of the 
town and is built of granite, 200 feet by 44, of 5 stories. 
Extensive additions to the buildings were made in 1827, 
on the Auburn plan, at an expense of $56,000. The 
Massachusetts Insane Hospital is delightfully situated 
upon Pleasant Hill, on the west side of the town. 

The Ursuline Convent, is on Mourit Benedict, 
about 2| miles from Boston, commanding one of the 
most rich and variegated prospects in the United States. 
The plan of education pursued here is very extensive, 
embracing all those attainments which are considered 
necessary, useful or ornemental in society. Adjoining 
the establishment is a garden beautifully laid out, to 
which the 3"oung ladies always have access. Besides 
this, they are allowed, on days of recreation, to extend 
their walks over the whole farm; attended however by 
one or more of their instructors. 

Breed's PIill is situated one fourth of a mile north- 
east of CharlestDwn, and affords a pleasant prospect of 
Boston, (3 miles distant,) the harbor, Cambridge and 
its colleges, and of an extensive tract of highly cultiva- 
ted country. 

In the month of May, after the battle of Lexington, 
it was conjectured from the movements of the British 



BREED^S HILL. S35 

army that Gen. Gage intended to penerate into the 
country. It was accordingly decided by the provincial 
congress to attempt a defence of Dorchester Neck, and 
to "occupy Bunker's Hill, just within the Peninsula on 
which Charlestown stands. A detachment of 1000 
men, under Col. Prescot, proceeded to execute these 
orders ; but by some mistake, Breed's Hill, situated on 
the farther part of the peninsula, was selected for the 
proposed entrenchn'.ents. 

The party under Col. Prescot proceeded in their 
work with so much diligence and secrecy, that by the 
dawn of day, they had thrown up a square redoubt of 
about forty yards on each side. Day-light discovered 
this new work to the British, and a heavy cannonade 
was commenced upon it from the shipping in the river. 
The fire was borne with firmness by the Americans, 
and 'did not prevent them from soon constructing a 
breast work, which extended from the redoubt to the 
bottom of the hill. 

"As this eminence overlooked Boston, Gen. Gage 
thought it necessary to drive the provincials from it. 
To efiect this object, he detached Major Gen. Howe, 
and Brigadier Gen. Pigot, at the head of ten compa- 
nies of grenadiers, and the same number of light in- 
fantry, with a proper proportion of field artillery. 
These troops landed at Moreton's point, where they 
immediately formed ; but perceiving the Americans to 
wait for them with firmness, they remained on their 
ground until the success of the enterprize should be 
rendered secure by the arrival of a reinforcement from 
Boston, for which Gen. Howe had applied. During 
this interval the Americans also were reinforced by a 
cg2 



S84 breed's filLL. 

body of their countrymen, led by Generals Warretl 
and Pomeroy ; and they availed themselves of this de- 
lay, to increase their security b}- pulling up some ad- 
joining post and rail fences, and arranging them in two 
parallel lines at a small distance from each other ; the 
Space between which they filled up with hay, so as to 
form a complete cover from the musketry of the en- 
emy, 

*' On being joined by their second detachment, the 
Britsh troops, who were formed in tVi'o lines, advanced 
slowly under cover of a very heavy discharge of cannon 
and howitzers, frequently halting in order to allow their 
artillery time to demolish the works. While they were 
advancing, orders were given to set fire to Charlestown, 
a handsome village containing about 500 houses, which 
flanked their li;:e of march. The buildings were chief- 
ly of wood, and the flames were quickly communicated 
so extensively, that almost the whole town v.as in one 
great blaze. 

" It is not easy to conceive a more grand and a more 
awful spectacle than was now exhibited ; nor a mo- 
ment of more anxious expectation than that which was 
now presented. Tlie scene of action was in full view of 
the heights of Boston and of its neighborhood, which 
were covered with spectators taking deep and opposite 
interests in the events passing before them. The sol- 
diers of the two hostile armies not on duty, the citizens 
of Boston, and the inhabitants of the adjacent country, 
all feeling emotions which set description at defiance, 
were witnesses of the majestic and tremendous scene. 

"The provincials permitted the enemy to approach 
wnraolested within less than one hundred yards of their 



breed's HlLt. 38S 

works, when they poured in upon them so deadly a fire 
of small arms that the British line was totally broken, 
and fell back with precipitation towards the landing 
place. By the very great exertions of their officers, 
they were rallied and brought up to the charge, but 
were again driven back in confusion by the heavy and 
incessant fire from the works. General Howe is said 
to have been left at one time almost alone, and it is 
certain that very few officers about his person escaped 
unhurt. 

" The impression to bo made by victory or defeat, in 
thin early stage of the v/ar, v/as deemed of the utmost 
consequence ; and therefore very extraordinary exer- 
tions were made once more to rally the English. With 
great difficulty, they M'cre a third time led up to the 
works. The redoubt v/as now attacked on three sides 
at once, while some pieces of artillery, which had been 
bi ought to bear on the breast work, raked it ftora end 
to end. Tha cross fire too, from the ships and floating 
batteries, not only annoyed the works on Breed's Hill, 
but deterred any considerable reinforcements from pass- 
ing into the peninsula, and coming to their assistance. 
The ammunition of the Americans was nov/ so nearly 
exhausted, that they were no longer able to keep up the 
sam.e incessant stream of fire, which had twice repuls- 
ed the enemy ; and on this third attempt, the redoubt, 
the walls of which the English mounted with ease, was 
carried at the point of the ba} onet. Yet the Ameri- 
cans, many of wdiom v/ere without bayonets, are said 
to have maintained the contest with clubbed muskets, 
until the redoubt was half filled with the king's troops. 



386 BUNKER HILL MONUMEMT. 

" The redoubt being lost, the breast work which had 
been defended with equal courage and obstinacy, was 
necessarily abandoned ; and the very hazardous ope- 
ration undertaken, of retreating in the face of a victori- 
ous enemy, over Chuvlestown neck ; where they were 
exposed to the same cross fire from the Glasgow man 
of war and two floating batteries, which had deterred 
the reinforcements ordered to their aid from coming to 
their assistance, and had probably prevented their re- 
ceiving proper supplies of ammunition." 

The number of British troops engaged in this action 
was about 3000, and their loss in killed and wounded 
was 1050. The American force has been variously 
stated from 1500 to 4000 ; and their loss, in killed, 
wounded and missing, amounted to "450. General 
Warren was among the number of the slain, and a 
handsome monument now marks the spot where he 
fell. The spot of ground on which this monument 
stands, was recently purchased by Dr. J. C. Warren, of 
Boston, a nephew of the lamented General, for the pur- 
pose, it is said, of preserving uninjured the few remain- 
ing traces of the memorable battle of '75. 

The corner stone of the Bunker Hill Monumen 
now erecting on Breed's Hill, was laid on the 15th of 
June, 1825 : on which occasion the Marquis La Fay- 
ette was present. The depth, however, proving insuf- 
ficient, the foundation was subsequently re-laid ; and 
the work has since progressed slowly. The Q,uincy 
granite is used for its structure. Its base is 50 feet in 
diameter, and its height is to be 220 feet. 

Fort Independence, is situated on an island at the 
outlet of Boston harbor, 3 miles distant j opposite to 



NAHANT. 387 

which is Governor's Island, containing a fort erected 
during the late war. These two forts command the 
entrance into the harbor of Boston. Seven or eight 
miles below is the light house, at the north-east extrem- 
ity of the channel, where vessels enter the Atlantic. 

NAHANT, 

Is a peninsula running three or four miles into the 
sea, and is situated fifteen miles north-easterly from 
Boston. It is approached from the town of Lynn over 
a beautiful beach of a mile and a half in length. At 
the extremity of this beach commences the peninsula, 
which is about two miles in length, and in some parts 
half a mile broad, although its shores are extremely ir- 
regular, and indented with small bays worn into the 
rocks by the unceasing action of the waves. 

The surface is, uneven, rising in some places to the 
elevation of sixty or seventy feet above the level of 
the sea. The shore is very bold, and presents on all 
sides, a grand embankment of broken massy rocks. 
At several points these rocks are worn into fantastic 
shapes, and at the time of high tide, or a swell of the 
sea, the roar and foam of the waters among them pre- 
sents a most interesting spectacle, which is contempla- 
ted by the quiet observer, seated on the snmmit above, 
with awe and admiration. The whole expanse of the 
ocean spreads out towards the east, and after a storm, 
the rolling waves come pouring in their immense bur- 
den upon these rocks, with such a power, sublimity 
and uproar of contending elements, as can hardly be 
conceived by any one who has not witnessed the 
scene. And again when the sea is tranquil, it may 



3S8 NAHAXT. 

be seen covered with shipping of all sizes, as far as the 
eye can extend, moving in different directions up and 
down the coast and exhibiting an animating picture of 
the industry and activity of commerce. In short, for 
picturesque beauty and subhmity of scenery, as well as 
for the many advantages arising from its peculiar local 
situation, this place is not surpassed by any on the 
coast. 

Besides a view of the ocean, Nahant presents a great 
variety of other interesting prospects. On one side 
is seen the village of Lynn, Swanscut, Phillips' Beach, 
Marblehead, Egg Rock, Baker's Island, and the north 
shore as far as the highland of Cape Ann ; on the oth- 
er, Charlestown, Boston, the islands in Boston harbor, 
part of Dorchester, Braintree, Nantucket and Scituate, 
with the light houses of Boston, Scituate and Baker's 
Island, forming together a panorama hardly to be equal- 
led in beauty or variety. 

The peninsula extends farther into the sea than any 
other head land in the bay. It is distant from the 
nearest island in Boston harbor, to the south, seven 
miles — from the nearest point of the south shore, about 
twelve miles — from the north shore between tv/o and 
three miles. It is on this side connected with the main 
land by a beach a few rods wide. Thus insulated 
and surrounded by water, Nahant enjoys a climate and 
temperature very cool, and, comparatively, very equa- 
ble — a circumstance of much impcrlance to the invalid, 
and which will determine the choice of a great portion 
of those who annually leave the city for the purpose of 
health or amusement. 



NAHANT. 38d 

Accommodations for visitors have lately been multi- 
plied and greatly improved. A spacious and elegant 
stone edifice has been erected as a Hotel, near the ex- 
tremity of the peninsula, in a very commanding and 
pleasant situation. This building contains 70 cham- 
bers, constructed on a plan of peculiar convenience, 
both for families and single persons. The dining hall 
is sufficiently spacious to accommodate 150 persons at 
table, besides which there are drawing rooms and pri- 
vate parlors. Large and commodious stables are ap- 
pended to the Hotel : and a bathing house for warm 
and cold baths, and floating baths for those who may 
prefer the bracing action of sea water, make a part of 
the establishment. The Hotel is surrounded by piaz- 
zas, which afford a most delightful prospect in every 
direction, and receive the cool and refreshing breezes 
every part of the day. In a small village, a quarter of 
a mile from the Hotel, are several private boarding 
houses, where every accommodation can be had for in- 
valids and for those who seek retirement. Numerous 
cottages, too, have been erected by several individuals 
for the purpose of affording more extensive and elegant 
accommodations to those who may pass the summer in 
this delightful place of residence. 

Nahant has many amusements. Angling with the 
rod may be enjoyed as a pleasant recreation, standing 
on the rocks ; and those who would try their skill in 
decoying larger prey, may go out in boats, which are 
always in readiness, and furnished with suitable appa- 
ratus. Game, too, is abundant in the vicinity. But 
there are few amusements or pleasures superior to that 
of riding, at suitable hofursof the day, on the beach. 



390 FORTS AROUND COSTOK. 

/ 

A beautiful building, in imitation of a Grecian tem- 
ple, has been erected on an eminence, near the Hotel, 
in which are two elegant biUiard rooms. There are al- 
so convenient covered bowling alleys, and such other 
means of amusement as are usually connected with the 
most extensive and elegant establishments at watering 
places. 

On the whole, the proximity of Nahant to Boston — 
its facility of access — the beauty and grandeur of its 
scenery— and above all, the singular local advantages 
it affords for invigorating the constitution, the salubrity 
and bracing tone of its atmosphere, and the excellent 
accommodations it ofTers to visitors — will undoubtedly 
make it a place of general resort during the summer 
months, from all parts of the United States. 

FORTS AROUND BOSTON, 

Erected dxtring the Revolution. 

The fortifications which were thrown up around Bos- 
ton, which held a British army besieged during eleven 
months of the revolution, and which finally compelled 
them to carry their arms and warfare into other lands, 
will always be regarded as objects of interest by every 
stranger visiting that section of country. Many of 
these works are still in fine preservation, while others 
have become defaced by the hand of time, or have been 
removed to give place to modern improvements. The 
following description of those remaining, is extracted 
from Silliman's Journal, and will prove a guide to stran- 
gers in determining their localities . 

At Breed's Hill, that blood-stained field, the redoubt 
thrown up by tlie Americans is nearly effaced ; scarce- 



FORTS AUOUND BOSTON. 391 

ly the slightest trace of it remains ; but the entrench- 
ment, which extended from the redoubt to the marsh, is 
still marked by a slight elevation of the ground. The 
redoubt thrown up by the British on the summit of the 
hill, may be easily distinguished. 

Bunker Hill. The remains of the British fort are vis- 
ible, the works must have been very strong, and occu- 
pied a large extent of ground — they are on the summit 
and slope of the hill looking towards the peninsula. 

Ploughed HilL The works upon this hill were com- 
menced by the Americans on the night of August 26th, 
1775, and received more fire from the British than any 
of the other forts ; in a few days more than three hun- 
dred shells were fired at these fortifications. A small 
part of the rampart remains, but the whole hill is sur- 
rounded by the mounds and fosse of the ancient fort, 
which has been nearly obliterated. 

Cobble or BarreWs Hill was fortified, and occupied as 
a strong post, in the war of the revolution, by General 
Putnam, and, in consequence of its strength was call- 
ed Putnam's impregnable fortress. It was commenced 
on the night of November 22d ; and the activity of its 
fire is well known to those who have studied the details 
of the siege of Boston. This fort has been destroyed ; 
but the position is easily identified. 

Lechmere Point Redoubt, one hundred yards from 
West Boston bridge, displays more science in its con- 
struction, and has a wider and deeper fosse than most 
of the other fortifications. It was commenced on Dec. 
lith, 1775, and it was several days before it was com- 
pleted, during which time it was much exposed to the 
fire of the English in Boston. Two or three soldiers of 

HH 



392 FORTS AROUND BOSTON'. 

the revolutionary army were killed at this redoubt, and 
the Prunus virginiana, Vt'ith its red berries, marks the 
spot where they were probably interred. Upon one 
angle of the fort where the cannon were pointed with 
most destructive effect, a church is now erected. 

A causeway made across the marsh, the covered 
way which crosses the brow of the hill, and the lines 
which flanked Willis' Creek, are still perfect, and may 
be traced with great facility. 

Winter Hill Fort appears to have been the most ex- 
tensive, and the entrenchments more numerous, than 
any of the other positions of the American army. The 
fort on the hill is almost entirely destroyed ; only a 
small part of the rampart still remains perfect. 

A redoubt situated upon Ten Hill Farm, Avhich com- 
manded the navigation of the Mystic river is complete, 
as are also some slight entrenchments near. 

A redoubt, situated between Winter and Prospect 
Hill, has been completely carried away, and a quarry 
has been opened on the spot. In the general orders, 
issued at Cambridge, guards were directed to be sta- 
tioned at White House Redoubt, and this it is believed 
was the post intended. General Lee is said to have 
had his head quarters in a farm house immediately in 
the rear of this redoubt. 

Prospect Hill has two eminences, both of which were 
strongly fortified, and connected by a rampart and 
fosse ; about two hundred yards are quite entire ; they 
are ornamented with the aster, solidago, rosa, &,c. ; and 
those who feel any. curiosity about these lines, will be 
much gratified by the viev/ here afforded. The forts 
on these hills were destroyed only a few years ago, but 



FORTS AROUND BOSTON. 395 

their size can be distinctly seen. On the southern em- 
inence a part of the fort is still entire, and the south- 
west face of the hill is divided into several platforms. 
There are also evident marks of the dwellings of the 
soldiers. The extensive view from this hill, the walk 
on the ancient ramparts, and the sight of the various 
stations occupied by the American army, will render 
this spot, at a future period, a favorite resort. 

The Cambridge Lines, situated upon Butler's Hill, 
appear to have consisted of six regular forts, connected 
by a strong entrenchment. The most northerly of 
these forts is perfect. With the exception of one of its 
angles destroyed by the road, it appears as if just quit- 
ted by the army of America ; its bastions are entire, 
the outline is perfect, and it seems a chief d'osuvre of the 
military art. 

A square fort may be seen near the southern extrem- 
ity of these lines, in fine preservation ; it is in afield 
within two hundred yai-ds of the road to Cambridge. 
The eastern rampart is lower than the others, and the 
gateway with its bank of earth still remains. 

The second Line of Defence may be traced on the col- 
lege green at Cambridge, but its proximity to the pubs 
lie halls may have produced some inconvenience, and 
it has been carefully destroyed. 

^i semicircular battery, with three embrasures, on the 
northern shore of Charles river, near its entrance into 
the bay, is in a perfect state of preservation. It is rath- 
er above the level of the marsh, and those who would 
wish to see it, should pass on the road to Cambridge 
until they arrive at a. cross road which leads to the 
bank of the river ; by following the course of tha 



394 FORTS AROUND BOSTON. 

Stream, they may arrive at this battery \vithout cross- 
ing the marsh, which is its northern boundary, and dif- 
ficult to pass. 

Brookline Fort, or, as it is called in the annals of the 
revolution, the fort on Sewell's Point, was very exten- 
sive, and would still be perfect, were it not for the road 
which divides it into two nearly equal parts. With this 
exception, the ramparts and an irregulnr bastion, which 
commanded the entrance of Charles river, are entire. 
The fort was nearly quadrangular, and the fortifications 
stronger than many of the other positions of the Ameri- 
can army. 

4.4 battery, on the southern shore of Muddy river, 
with three embrasures, is only shghtly injured. 

Forts at Roxbury. The lower fort at Roxbury ap- 
pears to have'been the earliest erected, and by its ele- 
vation commanded the avenue to Boston over the pe- 
ninsula, and prevented the advance of the English 
troops in that direction. It is of the most irregular 
form, the interior occupies about two acres of ground, 
and as the hill is bare of soil, the places may still be 
seen whence the earth was taken to form the ramparts. 
This fortification has not been at all injured, and the 
embrasures may still be noticed where the cannon 
were placed which fired upon the advanced lines of the 
enemy. 

On a higher eminence of the same hill is situated a 
quadrangular fort, built on the summit of the rock, and 
being perhaps their first attempt at regular fortifica- 
tion, it was considered by the m.ilitia of unparalleled 
strength, and excited great confidence in that wing of 
the army stationed at Roxbury. 



FORTS AUOUND BOSTON. 395 

The Roxhury Lines, about three quarters of a mile in 
advance of the forts, and two hundred yards north of 
the town, are still to be seen on the eastern side of the 
peninsula, and 'may be distinguished by any person go- 
ing by the nearest road to Dorchester, over Lamb's dam. 

At this period it may be proper to mention the British 
fortificaiions. The lines situated upon the Neck may 
be seen to great advantage on the western side of the 
isthmus, about a quarter of a mile south of the green 
stores. There appear to have been two lines of en- 
trenchments carried quite across the p<^ninsula, and 
the fosse, which was filled at high water, converted 
Boston inta an island. The mounds, , ramparts and 
wide ditches which remain, attest the strength of the 
original works. The small battery on the common, 
erected by the British, may perhaps remr.in for a long 
period of years, as a memoriable of ancient times. 

The Dorchester Lines. Of these, some very slight 
traces may be distinguished. 

Forts on Dorchester Heights. We now hasten to the 
last forts, the erection of which terminated the contest 
in this portion of the eastern states of America. It is 
to be regretted that the entrenchments thrown up by 
the army of the revolution, on the heights of Dorches- 
ter, are almost entirely obliterated by the erection of 
two new forts in the late war. But some traces of the 
ancient works may be seen on both hills ; the old forts 
were constructed with more skill, and display more 
science than the recent works, the rarnparts of which 
are even now falling down ; and we would gladly see 
them destroyed if from their ruins the ancient works 
could re-appear. 

hh2 



396 FROM BOSTON TO PORTLAND. 

A noble octagonal fort and two battenes, which may 
be seen in perfect preservation upon the promontory, 
w'ere erected after the departure of the Enghsh from 
Boston. The fort is situated at the point ; one battery 
is in the rear of the House of Industry, whose inmates 
will probably soon destroy it, and the other upon a ris- 
ing ground immediately below the heights of Dorches- 
ter. 

At J^ookHill, near South Boston bridge, may be seen 
the last breast- work which was thrown up by the forces 
of America during this arduous contest. Its appear- 
ance on the morning of March 17, 1776, induced the de- 
parture of the British troops from Boston in- a few hours, 
and thus placed the seal to the independence of the 
New-England states. But those who would wish to 
see this entrenchment must visit it soon. The enemy 
have attacked it on tliree sides, and are proceeding by 
sap and by mine , part of the fosse is already destroy- 
ed, and the rampart nods to its fall. 

FROM BOSTON TO PORTLAND, (Maine.) 

A stage leaves Boston daily at 8 A. M. (Sundays ex- 
cepted,) reaching Newburyport at 1 P. M. and Ports- 
mouth, N. H. at 5. Leaves Portsmouth the next morn- 
ing at 8, and reaches Portland at 5 P. M. Distance, 
120 miles — fare $Q. The intervening distances are as 
follows : 



SALEM* 



597 



Miles. 

Lynn,* » 9 

Salem,* 5 

Newburyport, 24 

Portsmouth, 24 



Miles. 

York, 9 

Kennebunk, 24 

Saco, 10 

Portland, 15 



Lynn is a large township, with a population of be- 
tween 4 and 5000. It contains 6 churches, and many 
large manufacturing establishments for ladies' shoes, 
which are sent to the southern states and the West In- 
dies. The Lynn beach connects the peninsula of Na- 
hant with tiie main land, and is a favorite resort in 
summer^ 

This is one of the oldest towns in New-England, and 
several records of its early history have been recently 
collected and published in Boston. The author has 
given a mass of interesting facts and occurrences of 
"olden time," furnishing altogether a curious compen- 
dium, not only to antiquarians and the immediate de- 
scendants of the first settlers of that place, but to read- 
ers of every class and section of the country. All the 
quaintness and original simphcity of tire original lan- 
guage has been preserved, and such remarks of the 
compiler introduced as are necessary to explain the 
meaning or increase the interest. 

Salem is considered the second town in New-Eng- 
land in commerce, wealth and population. It is located 
on a peninsula formed by two inlets of the sea, called 
North and South rivers. On the opposite side of North 



* These places are not on the direct route from Bos- 
ton to Newburyport ; but it is, nevertheless, recommen- 
^<?d to travellers to pass through them. 



398 NEWBURTPORT — PORTSMOUTH, 

river is the town of Beverly, to which a bridge leads, 
1500 feet in length, Marblehead is on the opposite 
side of South river, which forms the harbor, defended by 
two forts. Salem contains a court house, 3 banks, an 
atheneum, a museum, an orphan asylum and 13 church- 
es. The Square, near the centre of the town, is a beau- 
tiful tract of ground ; and is surrounded by numerous 
elegant private dwellings. 

Salem was settled as early as 1626. Its Indian name 
was Naumkeag. In 1692, and for some time after- 
wards, several of its inhabitants became a prey to the 
greatest credulity and bigotry. Its prison was crowd- 
ed with persons accused of witchcraft, many of whom 
paid their life as a forfeit for their supposed crimes. The 
present population of the town is from 12 to 15,000. 

Newburtport is handsomely situated on the south 
bank of the Merrimack river, three miles from its 
mouth, rising on a gradual acclivity from the water. 
The streets are wide, and intersect each other at right 
angles ; and many of the houses are elegant. The 
court house, standing at the head of one of the princi- 
pal streets leading from the river, adds much to the 
beauty of the place. The village contains 2 banks, 7 
churches and 7000 inhabitants, and is a place of con- 
siderable trade ; though it suffered much during the 
restrictive system, previous to the last war. 

Portsmouth is the largest town and only seaport 
in New-Hampshire. It is located on the south side of 
the Piscataqua river, 2 miles from its mouth. The town 
contains 5 banks, an atheneum, an asyknn for females, 
an alms-house, custom-house and 7 churches. A 



PORTLAND. 399 

bridge, 2371 feet long, crosses the river at this place to 
Kittery, Me. on the opposite side. On an island be- 
tween the two places is a navy yard. The town is 
handsome in its appearance, is a place of considerable 
trade, and contains a population of about 6000. 

In 1C95, this place was assaulted by a party of In- 
dia.ns, and 14 of its inhabitants killed, one scalped, who 
recovered, and four taken prisoners. After burning 
several houses, the Indians retreated through what is 
called the great sioamp. They were, however, overtak- 
en the next morning by a company of militia, dispers- 
ed, and the prisoners re-taken. 

After leaving Portsmouth, the villages of York, 
Welles, Kennebunk and Saco, are successively pass- 
ed, before reaching Portland ; affording very little to 
interest, if we except an old fort about three miles and 
a half northeast of Welles, and the falls at Saco, on 
the river of that name, which rises in the White 
Mountains of New-Hampshire. These falls are about 
30 feet, and afford facilities for extensive manufactur- 
ing operations. 

PoaxLAND, the capital of Maine, and a port of entry, 
is a beautiful town, located on a peninsula projecting 
into Casco bay. This peninsula has two prominences ; 
on one of which stands several elegant dwelling houses, 
and on the other an observatory. The harbor is safe, 
well defended, and has a light-house at its entrance. 
Among the public buildings in the town are an elegant 
court-house, a jail, custom-house, 2 banks, an acade- 
my, atheneum and 10 churches. , Population, upwards 
of 12,000. From the observatory, an extensive prospect 



400 PORTLAND. 

is had of the ocean and of the country at the northwest, 
terminated by the AVhite Mountains. On Bang's and 
House Islands, at the entrance of the harbor, are Forts 
Preble and Scammel. At the east, 32 miles distant, is 
seen the light-house at the mouth of the Kennebec riv- 
er, with a great variety' of islands intervening. West 
of the observatory is Fort Sumner, on a hill, with seve- 
ral intrenchments made during the revolutionary war. 

Portland (then called Falmouth) was nearly laid in 
ruins in Oct. 1775. The inhabitants w'ere required by 
Capt. Mowatt, of the British sloop of war Canceau, to 
surrender their arms ; and on a refusal, he commenced 
a bombardment of the town, which lasted 9 hours, re- 
sulting in a destruction of 130 houses, three fourths of 
the whole number. 

Stages leave Portland three times a week for the 
White Mountains in New-Hampshire, (see p. 365,) 
passing through Westbrook, Gorham, vStandish, Bald- 
win, Hiram, Brownsfield and Fryeburgh to Conway, 
which they reach at evening. Distance 62 miles — fare 
$3. From Conway, a stage leaves on Monday and 
Thursday mornings, passing through Bartlett, Hart's 
Location, over the Avalanches at the Notch of the 
White Mountains, through Nash and Swain's Loca- 
tion, Britton woods and Bethlehem to Littleton on the 
Connecticut river. Distance 48 miles — fare $3. [Lit- 
tleton is 17 miles below Lancaster, 100 miles north of 
Concord, N. H., and is located at the mouth and falls ot" 
the Amanoosuc river. See p. 358.] 



FROM PORTLAND TO QUEBEC. 401 

FROM PORTLAND TO QUEBFC 258 milcS. 

A new road is now finished from Portland to Cluebec, 
principally over the route pursued by Gen. Arnold and 
his troops in 1775, previous to the assault of that place 
by Gen. Montgomery. The completion of this road 
will frequently induce strangers to take the state of 
Maine, as well as Montreal, in their route to or from 
Q.uebec. 

The intermediate distances on this route are as fol- 
lows : 



Miles. 

Bloomfield, 7 

Norridgework 5 

Anson, 11 

Dead River, 20 

Forks of Kennebeck 

River, 15 

Moose River, 24 

Chaudiere River, 37 

Cluebec, GO 



Miles. 
From Portland to North 

Yarmouth, 12 

Freeport, 6 

Brunswick, 9 

Bordointown, 13 

Hallowell, 15 

Augusta, 3 

Sidney, 12 

Waterville, 5 

Fairfield, 4 

North Yarmouth, 12 miles north of Portland, is 
located on Casco bay, about 35 miles from the ocean, 
and is a village of some magnitude, containing 4 church- 
es, an academy and about 4000 inhabitants. The bay 
affords fine anchorage for vessels, and the surrounding 
country is picturesque and interesting. 

Freeport, 6 miles farther, is at the head of Casco 
bay, and contaias a population of about 2500 inhabi- 
tants. 

Brunswick, 9 miles. The village, which is peculiar- 
ly pleasant, is situated on the southwest bank of the 



402 UOLLOWELL AUGUSTA. 

Androscoggin river, at the fulls, which furnish valua- 
ble seats for mills and manufactones. Bowdoin college j 
at this place, is located on an elevated and beautiful 
plain, enjoying a rich and diversified view of the riv- 
er and surrounding country. The college originally 
received a donation of $10,000 from the late James D. 
Bowdoin, Esq. and five townships of land from the 
state. It also receives §3000 annnally from the latter. 
From 130 to 150 students are yearly educated at this 
institution. 

Bowdoin TOWN, 13 miles. 

Hallowell, 15 miles, is a very flourishing village, 
on the Kennebeck rivei-, at the head of tide water. It 
contains an academy, a bank, three churches, between 
2 and 300 dwelling houses, some of which are very ele- 
gant, and about 3000 inhabitants. Granite is here ob- 
tained, which is considered equal to any ever discover- 
ed in the Union. Vessels of 150 tons burthen ascend 
the rivor as far as this place. 

Augusta, 3 miles, is the seat of government of the 
state, and is located on both sides of the Kennebeck 
river, over which is a substantial bridge. A part of the 
village is on a very elevated plain above the river, and 
a part of it on its banks. Many of the dwellings ex- 
hibit much taste and elegance in their structure, and 
the whole appearance of the place is pecuharly inviting 
and pleasant. 

The new State House, lately erected here, is an 
ornament to the town and highly creditable to the mu- 
nificence of the state. 

Sidney, 12 miles farther, is a pleasant village on the 
Kennebeck river. 



HROM PORTLANn TO EASTPORT. 403 

Waterville, 5 miles, on the same river, is a place 
of considerable magnitude, containing a bank. At Te- 
conick Ealls in this town, at the head of boat naviga- 
tion, there are several manufactories, and a flourishing 
village is springing up. Waterville college, under the 
direction of the Baptist denomination, is located in this 
town. It was commenced in 1818, and educates be- 
tween 50 and 60 students annually for the ministry. 

Bloomfield, 11 miles. A pleasant village, contain- 
ing a respectable academy. 

NoRRiDGEWORK, 5 milos, is situated on both banks 
of the Kennebeck river. It is the capital of Somerset 
county, and contains a court house and jail. The vil- 
lage is centrally located for the trade of a fertile back 
country, and is a flourishing place, containing a popu- 
lation of about 2000 inhabitants. 

The route to Clucboc continues through a less popu- 
lous country for about 50 miles ;- when, for the remain- 
ing distance, it passes through extensive forests, with 
an occasional settlement only. These forests, howev- 
er, are giving- way to the arts of husbandry, and in a few 
years will doubtless be succeeded by a succession of 
settlements and cultivated farms. 

FROM PORTLAND TO EASTPORT 287 lllilcS. 

The following are the intermediate distances : 
Miles. 
North Yarmouth, .... 12 

Freeport, 6 

Brunswick, .......... 9 

Bath, 7 

VViscassct, 15 

JMevvcastle, . . . c 11 

u 



Miles. 

Waldoboro', 12 

Warren, 8 

Thomastown, 5 

Camden, 11 

Lincolnville, 7 

Belfast 11 



404 BATH — WALDOBORO'. 



Miles. 

Buckstown, 18 

Penobscot, 13 

Castine, 4 

Blue Hill, 10 

Surry, S 

Trenton, 12 

Sullivan, 9 

Steuben, ,, 14 



Miles. 

Harrison, 8 

Columbia, 12 

Jonesboro', 9 

Machias, 9 

E. Falls of Machias,. . . 6 

Dennysville, 23 

Eastport Ferry, 14 

Eastport, 4 



The route is near the coast, and embraces an extent 
of highly interesting and romantic country. North- 
Yarmouth, Freeport and Brunswick have already been 
noticed. 

Bath, 34 miles northeast of Portland, is a port of en- 
try, on the west side of the Kennebeck river, 15 miles 
from its mouth. The river is here a mile wide, and the 
town is built on an acclivity for a mile and a half in ex- 
tent, and assumes a very handsome appearance from 
the water. It is a place of extensive business, and con- 
tains two banks, an academy, three churches, and a 
population of nearly 4000 inhabitants. 

WiscASSET, 15 miles, is a port of entry, located on 
the west side of Sheepscot river, with an excellent har- 
bor. The place contains a court houee, jail, bank, in- 
surance office, and some other public buildings, and a 
population of about 2500. 

Newcastle, 11 miles, is located on the west side of 
Sheepscot river. 

Waldoboro', 12 miles, is a port of entry and a place 
of considerable trade, containing a population of about 
3000 inhabitants. 



WARREK — CASTINE. 405 

Warren, 8 miles, is located on St. George's river, 
which is navigable to this place for sloops. 

Thomastown, 5 miles, is a place of extensive busi- 
ness, situated on the west side of Penobscot bay and on 
St. George's river, 12 miles from its mouth. The state 
prison of Maine is at this place, and is in a lot of 10 
acres, enclosed by a sold wall, within which is an ex- 
tensive quarry of limestone. There are also in the vi- 
cinity of the town mexhaustible quarries of lime and 
marble, of which large quantities are annually exported. 
The village contains a bank and a population of about 
3000 inhabitants. About a mile from the village is the 
ancient residence of the late Gen. Knox, now in a state 
of decay. 

Camden, 1 1 miles, and Lincolnville, 7 miles far- 
ther, are both situated on the west side of the Penob- 
scot bay. 

Belfast, 11 miles from Lincolnville, is on the same 
side of the bay, and is a flourishing village. 

BucKSTOWN, 18 miles, is on the east side of the Pe- 
nobscot, the largest river in the state. It is navigable 
for large vessels to Bangor, 50 miles from its entrance 
into the bay. 

Penobscot, 13 miles, on the east side of a bay of 
that name. 

Castine, 4 miles, is situated on a promontory, near 
the head of the east side of Penobscot bay, with a beau- 
tiful harbor stretching out before the town. Castine 
can be easily defended from assault ; as the narrow- 
ness of the isthmus which connects it with the vaa'm 



406 MACHIAS— EAST-PORT. 

land could be insulated with comparatively a small 
expense ; added to which, strong batteries would ena- 
ble it to resist any force which would probably be 
brought against it. This would be the more important 
in time of war, as an enemy in possession of the place, 
would have command of the intermediate country from 
Penobscot to St. Croix. The place was taken during 
the last ^var, and the British entrenchments on a hill 
above the town are still visible. 

Blue Hill, Surry, Trenton, Sullivan, (in which there 
is a bridge across Hog bay 1400 feet long) Steuben, 
Harrison, Columbia and Jonesborough are successive- 
ly passed in travelling from Castine to 

Machias, a port of entry and capital of Washington 
county, Me. The town contains two villages ; one sit- 
uated at the falls of the east branch of the Machias 
river, and the other at the falls of the west branch of the 
same stream. Between the two villages a bridge is 
erected across Middle river, which, with the causeway, 
is 1900 feet long. Machias contains a court house, 
jail, 2 churches, a very flourishing academy, and is a 
thriving place. 

Eastport, is a port of entry on Moose island in Pas- 
samaquoddy bay. The island is 4 miles long, with a 
bold shore, the tide ordinarily rising here 25 feet. The 
town is principally built on the southern part of the isl- 
and, and contains a bank, 3 churches and about 2000 
inhabitants. There are also fortifications in the vicini- 
ty, which were constructed during the last war. The 
view from the heights on the island is very extensive 
and romantic, taking in the bay with its numerous isl- 
ands and the adjacent coast. Between Eastport and 



STAGES FROM BOSTON TO NEW-YORK. 40f 

the town of Perry on the main land, a bridge has been 
constructed, rising of 1200 feet long. A line of steam 
boats is established between this place and Boston, 
touching at Portland, so that travellers can take either 
a water or land route to that city. 

RoBiNSTOWN, 13 miles northwest of Eastport, locat- 
ed at the mouth of the St. Croix river at its entrance 
into the Passamaquoddy bay, is on the boundary line 
between the United States and the British Province of 
New-Brunswick, and is opposite St. Andrews. 

STAGES FROM BOSTON TO NEW-YORK, 

via Hartford and J^Teio-Haven, Conn. 

A stage leaves Boston, daily at 1 P. M. arrives in 
Hartford next morning at 6, in New-Haven at 2 P. M., 
and in New- York at 6, second morning — distance 210 
miles, fare $11. This line meets a steam boat every 
day at New-Haven, except Sunday — fare through by 
stage and steam boat, $10,50. A stage also leaves 
Boston on Sunday and Wednesday, at 3 A. M. reaches 
New-London, Conn, at evening, where a steam boat is 
taken which reaches New- York the next morning. 
Another Stage leaves Boston and New-Haven daily, 
passing through Hartford and reaching the two first 
mentioned places at evening of the second day — dis- 
tance 13G miles, fare $7,50. 

Either of the foregoing routes can be taken by trav- 
ellers wishing to proceed directly to New- York ; but 
an excursion by the way of Providence is recom- 
mended as preferable, on the route hereafter desig- 
nated. It is more circuitous, but much more inter- 
ii3 



408 FROM BOSTON TO PROVIDENCE, R. i.- 

esting ; and occupies less time, for there is but 40 miles 
land travel. 

FROM BOSTON TO PROVIDENCE, R. I. 

40 miles* 
A stage leaves Boston every morning at 5 o'clock, 
and connects with the steam boat line at Providence 
daily, except Sundays ; and with the steam boat line 
at New-London, Conn, on Wednesday and Sunday. 
Stages also leave Boston daily at 7 and 11 A. M., for 
Providence. Fare $2,50. The intermediate distances 
follow : 

J\Iiles. 

Roxbury, ,..•.• 2 

Dcdhani, 8 

Walpole, 10 



Miles. 

Wrentham, 7 

Pawtucket, 9 

Providence, 4 



In proceeding to Roxbury, the stage passes over what 
is called the I^eck, a narrow strip of land, contain- 
ing intrenchments, noticed at p. 395. On Dorchester 
Heights, {see p. 380 and jj. 395,) which are seen at the 
east, many of the works erected for commanding Bos- 
ton and its harbor, are in tolerable preservation. 

Passing the Blue Hills, 7 miles from Boston, which 
afibrd a pleasant retreat in the summer months, and a 
charming prospect of the surrounding country, the vil- 
lage of 

Dedham is reached in going three miles farther. It 
is a large and beautiful town, containing a court house, 



* A rail road is now constructing from Boston to 
Providence, which will probably be completed tlie pres- 
ent year, (1834.) 



?ROViDEKCE. 409 

jail, bank, 6 churches, and between 2 and 3000 inhabit 
tants. Charles and Neponset rivers run through the 
place, and afford numerous seats for mills and manu- 
facturing estabhshments. Silk is reeled and throwsted 
here on a small scale — first experiment of throwsting 
in the U. S. 

Walpole 10, and Wrentham 17 miles from Ded- 
ham, are small villages. 

Pawtucket, 9 miles from Wrentham, is located at 
the falls of the Pawtucket river ; and is one of the most 
extensive ma,nufacturing places in the union. It con- 
tains 10 or 12 cotton factories, several shops for mak- 
ing machinery, a number of factories for other purpo- 
ses, and a populatioii of about 4000. Four miles far- 
ther, over a most delightful road, is the handsome and 
flourishing town of 

PROVIDENCE. 

The settlement of this place was commenced as ear- 
ly as 1636, by Roger Williams. He was a pui-itan 
minister, and had been settled at Salem ; but holding 
tenets contrary to the faith of many of his people, he 
was banished the jurisdiction of Massachusetts. He 
came to what was called by the Indians Mooshausick ; 
but which in gratitude for the providential safety he 
had experienced, he called Providence. It is located 
on the river of the same name, just above the mouth of 
the Seekhonk or Pawtucket, 35 miles from the ocean, 
and is a port of entry. The town is built on both 
sides of the river, across which is an elegant bridge ; 
and is one of the most wealthy and enterprising places 
in the union. Besides a great variety of extensive 



410 BROWN UN1VER81TT. 

manufacturing establishments, it contains a court house, 
town house, market, hospital, 7 banks, a college, 3 
academies, and several churches ; and its population is 
not far from 20,000. 

Brown University, at this place, over which the 
Rev. Francis Watland, jun. presides, was incorpora- 
ted in 1769. It soon rose to a respectable rank among 
the literary institutions of the country; but afterwards 
declined. Under its present able and judicious Presi- 
dent, however, it has attained a handsome elevation, 
and promises to become one of the best seats of learn- 
ing in the union. The library has lately been much in- 
creased by donations from England ; and the philo- 
sophical apparatus, which is extensive, is constantly 
improving. The college edifices, of which there are 
two, are located on a lofty eminence, with streets lead- 
ing thereto, richly decorated with fine mansions and 
elegant gardens. About a mile still farther east or 
north-east, stands a large building, called the Gluaker 
College. It was built by the Friends, and is occupied 
as a boarding school of that persuasion, and is in ex- 
cellent order. Near this, of corresponding dimensions 
and appearance, stands the new Alms House. A lega- 
cy of $60,000, has enabled the town to erect this noble 
structure. 

The town abounds with the most delightful private 
residences. The new town on the west side of the 
river, has more the appearance of a flourishing com- 
mercial city than the old. It also contains many spa- 
cious dwellings which impart to it an air of prosperity. 
The Hill, or East Providence, as it is called, is occupi- 
ed by gentleraen'3 private mansions, or country seats, 



BLACKSTONE CANAL. 411 

all advantageously located, with fine court yards in 
front, thickly planted with shrubbery, while highly cul- 
tivated and beautiful gardens adorn the rear, and add 
immeasurably to their comfort. The charming resi- 
dence of Messrs. Brown, Ives, and Governor Fenner 
are entitled to particular notice. It was on the present 
domains of Governor Fenner, that Roger Williams 
first planted himself, and it has so happened that from 
that day to this, that situation has belonged to a gover- 
nor of Rhode Island. 

The Blackstone Canal terminates at this place. It 
commences in the Blackstone river at Worcester, 45 
miles distant, and pursues the valley of the river to 
Woonsokett falls near the Massachusetts line ; from 
whence there is an excavation to Providence. 

Steam Boats leave Providence six times a week for 
New- York— fare f 6. 

Stages, also, leave Providence three times a week 
for Norwich and Middletown, and daily (except Sun- 
days) for Hartford, Conn, arriving at those places at 
evening. Fare to Norwich, 45 miles, $3 — to Middle- 
to wh $4 — to Hartford, 74 miles, $4. A stage also 
leaves Providence twice a week for New-London, 
Conn, distant 59 miles, connected with a steam boat 
line for New- York.* 



* A rail road is in progress from Providence to Ston- 
nington. Conn., which, when completed, will give an 
uninterrupted steam boat and rail road communication 
between Boston and New- York. 



41S FROM PROVIDENCE TO NEWPORT. 

FROM PROVIDENCE TO NEWPORT. 

Stages leave Providence daily, except Sundays, at 9 
A. M. reaching Bristol at 11, and Newport at 4 P. M. 
Fare from Providence to Bristol, i5 miles, $1 — from 
Providence to Newport, 30 miles, $2,33. 

Bristol is a pleasant town, with a population of 
about 1500 inhabitants. The village is located on the 
east shore of the Narraganset bay, affording an excel- 
lent harbor for vessels of the largest dimensions. A- 
bout two miles from the ferry in this town an exten- 
sive mine of anthracite coal was opened a few years 
since, from which very considerable quantities are an- 
nually taken. 

Newport is a large town, with an extensive harbor, 
which is defended by Forts Adams and Dumplings at 
its entrance, and by Fort Woolcott on Goat Island, op- 
posite the town. There is also a small battery about 
a mile above the town, called Fort Green. The village 
is about a mile in length, and rises in a gentle acclivity 
from the harbor, giving it a fine appearance, when ap- 
proached from the water. It contains a state house, 
theatre, five banks, 11 churches, several manufactories, 
and a population of about 8,000. 

Newport was possessed by the British for a conside- 
rable time during the revolutionary war. In 1778, un- 
der an expectation of aid from the French fleet, which 
had sailed into the harbor, an American force, of about 
10,000 strong, commanded by Gen. Sullivan, and aided 
by Gen. Lafayette, made preparations for attacking 
the place. On ths approach of the Americans, tha 



VEwronT. 41S 

British abandoned their outposts and retreated to their 
works within the town. These posts were immediate- 
ly jibssessed by the Americans ; and the most flatter- 
ing prospects existed, that the aUied forces would be 
enabled to capture the entire British army. But the 
French admiral, who had been a military officer, and 
who, by a previous arrangement, was to superintend a 
part of the land as A^'ell as naval operations, took of- 
fence at some of the movements of Gen. Sullivan, and 
refused a co-operation. While an attempt at reconcil- 
iation was going forward, a British fleet suddenly ap- 
peared off" Newport, which induced the French admiral, 
as a precautionary measure, to sail out of the harbor. 
A severe storm coming on, prevented a naval engage- 
ment ; and both fleets, being left in a shattered condi- 
tion, at the close of the tempest, retired — the British to 
New- York, and the French to Newport. During this 
time. Gen. Sullivan had laid siege to the town; and 
though interrupted by the storm, in which his army- 
suffered considerably, he had succeeded in annoying the 
enemy, and keeping him within the lines of the village. 
On the return of the French fleet, another effort was 
made to induce the admiral to co-operate with the 
Americans. But his ships had received so much injury 
in the gale, that he considered it necessary to repair to 
Boston, pursuant to previous instructions from his gov- 
ernment. Under these circumstances, Sullivan de- 
termined on raising the siege. A retreat was eflfected 
in the night. But on its being discovered the next 
morning, the Americans were pursued by the British 
to Q,uaker Hill, where a sharp contest ensued, which 



414 KING PHILIP. 

resulted in the loss of between 2 and 300 of each army. 
Sullivan afterwards retreated to Massachusetts, with 
little or no interruption ; and his retreat was consider- 
ed fortunate, as a British re-inforcement, which arrived 
at Newport the day after, would have been enabled ef- 
fectually to cut him off from the main land. 

During the possession of Newport by the British, a 
bold party of men under Col. Barton, landed from a 
boat in the night, proceeded to the enemy's head quar- 
ters, captured Gen. Prescott, and conveyed him away 
before they could be prevented by the land or naval 
forces then in the harbor. 

From its elegant and healthy situation, its proximity 
to the ocean, and the salubrity of its climate, Newport 
for several years, has been a place of considerable re- 
sort in the summer months. Were there a direct com- 
munication from this place, by stage, or steam-boat, to 
New-London, Hartford or New-Haven, Conn, it wovdd 
add much to the convenience of tourists. But, unfor- 
tunately, for this purpose, the steam-boats which leave 
Providence and Newport five or six times a week for 
New-York, do not touch at any of the Connecticut 
ports ; and, in order to reach New-London by stage, 
it is necessary to return to Providence. Those who 
have travelled down by land, generally return by water. 

Passing Fort Green, a prospect is soon obtained of 
Mount Hope, a few miles to the northeast. It was the 
former resideiice of 

King Philip, of the Narraganset tribe of Indians, 
and was also the place of his death. The well known 
energy and enterprise of his character made him an 
object of great jealousy and apprehension, and he was 



KING rniLiP. 41$ 

r.ccused of always cherishing a secret and implacable 
hostility towards the English. A renegado Indian 
subject had heightened this jealousy, by revealing to 
the whites the pretended hostile projects of Phihp. 
This informer was shortly afterwards found murdered 
in a pond, having fallen a victim to the vengeance of 
his tribe. Three Indians, one of whom was a friend 
and counsellor of Philip, were seized by the whites, tri- 
ed, and on rather slight testimony executed. This out- 
raged the pride and exasperated the passions of Philip, 
and a long and bloody war was the consequence. The 
whites possessing more military skill, were generally 
victorious, and Philip was driven from his paternal do- 
mains and compelled to take refuge in the depths of for- 
ests or the glooms and thickets of swamps. At one 
time he was driven, with a band of follovv^ers, into the 
great swamp of Pocasset Neck, where the Enghsh for- 
ces did not dare to pursue him, fearing to venture into 
these dark and frig-htful recesses. They therefore in- 
vested the entrance into the neck, and began to build a 
fort, with the intention of starving out the foej but 
Philip and his companions, leaving their women and 
children behind, wafted themselves on a raft over an 
ann of the sea, in the dead of night, and escaped away 
to the westward, kindling the flames of war among the 
tribes of Massachusetts and the Nipmuck country, and 
threatening the colony of Connecticut. 

One of the most faithful friends that Philip had in the 
time of his adversity, was Canonchet, chief sachem of 
all the Narragansets. Though he had forborne to take 
an active part in this hopeless war, yet he received 
Philip and his shattered forces with open arms, and 

EK 



416 KING PHILIP. 

gave him the most generous countenance and supports 
This at once drew on Canonchet the hostihty of the 
Enghsh ; and it was determined to strike a single blow 
that should involve both the sachems in a common ruin, 
A great force was therefore gathered together from Mas- 
sachusetts, Plymouth and Connecticut, and sent into 
the Narraganset country, in the depth of winter, when 
the swamps being frozen and leafless, no longer afford- 
ed impenetrable fortresses to the Indians. Apprehen- 
sive of attack, Canonchet had sheltered the greater part 
of his stores, together with the old, the infirm, the wo- 
men and childien of his tribe, in a strong fortress where 
he and Philip had likewise drawn up the flower of their 
forces. This fortress, deemed by the Indians impreg- 
nable, was situated upon a rising mound, or kind of Isl- 
and, of five or six acres, in the middle of a swamp, con- 
structed with a judgment and skill vastly superior to the 
usual fortifications of the Indians ; and indicative of the 
martial genius of these two chieftains. 

Guided by a renegado Indian, the English penetrat- 
ed, through December snows, to this strong hold, and 
came upon the garrison by surprise. The fight was 
fierce and tumultuous. The assailants were repulsed 
in their first attack ; and several of their bravest officers 
were shot down in the act of storming the fortress, 
sword in hand. The assault was renewed with greater 
success ; a lodgment was effected ; the Indians were 
driven from one hold to another ; they disputed their 
ground inch by inch, fighting with the fury of despair ; 
most their veterans were cut to pieces, and after a 
long and bloody battle, Philip and Canonchet, with a 
handful of surviving warriors, retreated from the fort 



KING PHILlf. 4iy 

and plunged into the depths of the surrounding forest. 
The victors set fire to the wigwams and the fort ; the 
whole was soon in a blaze ; and many of the old men, 
the women and the children perished in the flames. 
This last inhuman outrage overcame the stoicism of the 
savage. The neighboring woods resounded with the 
yells of ruge and despair, uttered by the fugitive war- 
riors, as they beheld with anguish of heart, the desola- 
tion of their dwellings, and heard the agonizing cries of 
their wives and offspring. "The burning of the wig- 
wams," says a contemporary writer, " the shrieks and 
cries of the women and children, and the yelling of the 
warriors, exhibit<^<^ a most horrible and affecting scene, 
so that it greatly moved some of the soldiers." 

The defeat of the Narragan set fortress, and the death 
of Canonchei; v/ere fatal blows to the fortunes of King 
Philip. He made an ineffectual attempt to raise a head 
of war, by stirring up the Mohawks to take up arms ; 
but though possessed of the native talents of a states- 
man, his arts were counteracted by the superior arts of 
his enlightened enemies, and the tcrrc; of their warlike 
skill began to subdue the resolution of the neigldjoring 
tribes. 

With a scanty band of followers, who still remained 
true to his desperate fortunes, the unhappy Philip wan- 
dered back to the vicinity of Mount Hope, the ancient 
dwelling of his fathers. Here he lurked about like a 
spectre, among the desolated scenes of former power 
and prosperity, now bereft of home and friends. Even 
in this last Kefuge of desperation and despair, a sullen 
grandeur seems to gather round his memory. Defeat- 
ed, but not dismayed— crushed to the earth, but not hu- 



4] 8 FROM PROVIDENCE TO NEW-LOXDON. 

miliated, he seemed to grow more haughty beneath dis- 
aster, and to receive a fierce satisfaction in draining the 
last dregs of bitterness. The very idea of submission 
awakened the fury of Philip, and he even smote to death 
one of his followers who proposed an expedient of peace. 
The brother of the victim made his escape, and, in re- 
venge, betrayed the retreat of his chieftain. A body of 
white men and Indians were immediately despatched to 
the swamp where Philip lay crouched, glaring with fury 
and despair. Before he was aware of their approach, 
they had begun to surround him. In a little while he 
saw five of his trustiest followers laid dead at his feet ; 
a resistance was vain ; he rushed forth from his covert, 
and made a headlong attempt at escape, but was shot 
through the heart by a renegado Indian of liis own na- 
tion. 

After leaving Fort Green, the steam-boat successive- 
ly passes Prudence, Patience, Hope and Despair isl- 
ands, and Providence is reached in going 20 miles from 
the northern extremity of the latter. 

FROM PROVIDENCE TO NEW-LONDON, 56 milcS. 

A stage leaves Providence twice or three times a 
week in the morning, passing through Centreville, 
West Greenwich, Plopkinton, Stonington and Mystic, 
and reaches New-London at evening. 

Centreville, 11 miles from Providence, is a man- 
ufacturing village, containing two cotton factories, sev- 
eral weaving shops, and a number of small houses. 

West Greenwich, 2 miles. 



STONINGTON. 419- 

HoPKiNTON, 15 miles. 

Stonington, 1 1 miles. The village is incorporated ; 
contains a U. S. arsenal, several factories, a bank, an 
academy, two churches and a population of more than 
3000. It has a good harbor, and is a place of consid- 
erable trade. 

The settlement of the place commenced as early as 
1649. It had previously been a part of the territory of 
the Pequots, a powerful and warlike tribe of Indians. 
The early English settlers, in different parts of Connec- 
ticut, had been frequently annoyed by this tribe; and, 
in 1637, it became necessary to take efficient steps for 
their expulsioii. An expedition was entrusted to Capt. 
Mason ; who, with about 300 colonists raised in Con- 
necticut and Massachusetts, and 200 Mohegan and 
Narraganset Indians, encamped on the night of the 
26th of May at a place called Porter's rocks, a short 
distance from the present village of Stonington, and 
about three miles from one of the principal forts of the 
Pequots, which was situated on the summit of a hilL 
Two hours before day the little army was in motion ; 
and on approaching the fort, it was found that the ene- 
my, about 700 strong, w'ere in a profound sleep, with- 
out their usual watch, having spent the previous night 
in revelry and drunkenness. On a close approxima- 
tion of Mason's men, a dog within the fort commenced 
barking, which awakened one of the Pequots ; who, 
perceiving the approach of the assailants, aroused his 
comrades from their slumbers. Mason immediately 
advanced, and through the apertures of the palisades 
poured in a fire, and then rushed in through a part of 

the fort slightly barricaded. Notwithstanding their con- 
kk2 



426 NEW-LOKDOW. 

fusion, the Pequots defended tlicmselves with bravery ; 
but having but few other weapons than bows and ar- 
rows, they were unable to withstand the assailants, 
who cut them down without mercy M'ith their swords 
and bayonets. To render the victory complete, Ma- 
son ordered their wigwams to be fired. The blaze 
soon spread in all directions, compelling the besieged 
to ascend the palisades ; from whence more than one 
hundred were shot down by the assailants who had 
then surrounded the fort. Others, attempting to break 
through the lines of ihe troops, were either shot or cut 
down, and several perished in the flames. The scene 
continued about an hour, when it was found that sev- 
enty wigwams had been destroyed, and that the ground 
was strewed with the bodies of between five and six 
hundred of the slain. Mason's loss was only two men 
killed and sixteen v/ounded. 

In August, 1814, a bombardment of Stonington took 
place from a British 74, a frigate, a sloop of war and an 
armed brig ; but with the aid of two 18 pounders and 
a 4 pounder, the inliabitants defended the place, pre- 
vented the landing of troops from barges, and finally 
compelled the enemy to haul off, with his brig consid- 
erably shattered. 

NEW-LONDON 

Is 17 miles from Stonington, and is a city and port of 
entry. It has the best harbor in Connecticut, and is 
defended by Forts Trumbull and Griswold. The city 
is on the west bank of the Thames, witliin 3 miles of 
its mouth, and contains a court house, two banks, five 
churches, and a population of between 3 and 4000. 



I 



KSW^LONDON. 421 

Many of the houses on the heights, back of the town, 
and a few in the city, are handsome ; but the general 
appearance of the place is uninteresting. 

New-London, like Stonington, was once within the 
territory of the Pequot Indians, and was settled at the 
same time. About 4 miles east of the city, on what is 
called Fort Hill, this nation had their strongest fortress. 
But slight remains of it, however, are now to be seen. 

In September, 1781, after the treason of Arnold, an 
expedition was entrusted to his care against New-Lon- 
don. A strong detachment landed on both sides of the 
harbor at the mouth of the river. Arnold, who com- 
manded in person the troops which landed on the west 
side, immediately advanced against Fort Trumbull, an 
adjoining redoubt, and New-London. These posts be- 
ing untenable, were abandoned on his approach. Col. 
Eyere, who commanded the detachment which landed 
on the eastern side, proceeded to storm Fort Griswold, 
situate on Groton Hill. It was occupied by a garrison 
of 160 men, commanded by Col. Ledyard, a part of 
whom had just evacuated the works on the opposite 
side of the river. Ledyard defended the fort until the 
British succeeded in entering the embrasures with 
charged bayonets. Further resistance being useless, 
Ledyard surrendered his sword to the British colonel ; 
who, in defiance of every rule of civilized warfare, 
plunged il into the bosom of the conquered officer, and 
continued the carnage until the greater part of the gar- 
rison was destroyed. Eyere, however, lost his own life 
in the affair, and 200 of his men were cither killed or 
wounded. New-London was, at the same time, set on 
t'lrc by the direction of A mold, nnd most of its build- 



422 FROM NEW-LONDON TO NORWICH. 

ings and all the public stores deposited in the place 
consumed in the conflagration. 

Forts Griswold and Trumbull are still in tolerable 
preservation ; and were garrisoned by the government 
during the late war with Great Britain. 

A steam-boat leaves New-London on the arrival of 
the Boston stage, which is generally at 7 P. M. and 
reaches New- York early the next morning. Leaves 
New-York for New-London three times a week, and 
continues on her trip from New-London, up the Thames 
river to Norwich, 14 miles distant. 

Stages also leave Ne<v-London on Tuesday, Thurs- 
day and Saturday at 8 -A. M. and arrive at Hartford at 
5 P. M. passing through Waterford, Montville, Salem, 
Colchester, Hebron, Mailborongh, Glastenbury and 
East Hartford. Distance 47 miles — fare $2. This is 
the most direct route ; but the traveller will find it inter- 
esting to take a trip up the Thames to Norwich ; from 
whence a conveyance may be had to Hartford, as no- 
ticed hereafter. 

FROM NEW-LONDON TO NORWICH, by steam-boat. 

Previous to the settlement of New-London, in 1643, 
the Thames was called the Pequot river ; but at that 
period it received its present name. It rises in the 
Mashapaug pond in Union, 3 miles N. E. of Hartford, 
passes into Massachusetts, re-enters Connecticut, and 
pursues a southerly course till it falls into Long Island 
Sound. It is navigable for large vessels no farther than 
Norwich. During the late war, while New-London 
was blockadedj the U. S. ships Macedonian, United 



NORWICH- 423 

States and Hornet, were moored in a cove above Mas- 
sapeaug Point, and a small battery erected for their 
protection. 

MoHECAN is on the west bank of the Thames, four 
miles south of Norwich, and is the residence of about 
SOO Mohegan Indians, the only remnant of that once 
powerfvd tribe, who formerly owned this section of 
country. On Hortoti's Hill, not far from this place, the 
lines of an old Indian Fort can still be traced. 

Trading Cove, about 1 mile farther, is a bay extend- 
ing a short distance into what was once the Indian 
country, and derived its name from the traffic which 
was here carried on between the colonists and the Mo- 
hegans. The residence of Uncas, their sachem, and 
early friend of the whites, was near this cove, now the 
centre of the Indian reservation. 

NORWICH 

Is an incorporated city. It contains three compact 
settlements ; of v/hich Chelsea Landing, situate at tlie 
point of land between the Shetucket and Yantic rivers, 
is the principal. Its location is peculiarly romantic; 
and it is a place of much enterprise and business. 
What is called the Town is 2 miles northwest of Chel- 
sea, containing the court house and some other pubhc 
buildings ; and a third settlement is Bean Hill, in the 
western part of Norwich. The city contains a bank, 4 
or 5 churches, and several manufacturing establish- 
ments. The Yantic Falls, 1 mile fi-om Chelsea, ar& 
handsome, and afford facilities for mills and manufac- 
tories. From a roclv 70 or 80 feet in height, which 
overhangs the stream, tradition says a number of Nar- 



424 NORWICH. 

ragansets once precipitated themselves when pursued 
by the Mohegans. 

Settlements were commenced at Norwich as early 
as 1660. A part of the town was first conveyed to Thom- 
as Leffingwell, a colonial militia officer, by the sachem 
Uncas, in consideration of services rendered him in a 
war with a neighbonng tribe. A fort belonging to Un- 
cas, on the Pequot river, was closely besieged by the 
Narragansets ; and the provisions being nearly ex- 
pended, it was reduced to the last extremity. In this 
situation, Uncas contrived to notify the English at Say- 
brook fort of his distressed condition. Leffingwell, who 
commanded that fort, immediately conveyed to the be- 
sieged a supply of provisions ; which being soon known 
to the assailants, they were induced to raise the siege. 
For this generous conduct of Leffingwell, Uncas con- 
veyed to him the land about the fort, and afterwards 
gave him a formal deed of a township, embracing most 
of the present town of Norwich. 

On an elevated bank north of what is called the Cove, 
and near the Yantic falls, is the burying ground of the 
royal family of the Mohegans, commonly called " the 
burying ground of the Uncases." Many of their graves 
are still designated by coarse stones, on some of which 
are English inscriptions, Uncas was buried here and 
many of his descendants ; but his faiuily is now nearly 
extinct. There are one or two living who claim a kin- 
dred, but who have very little of the magnanimity or 
valor for which he was so conspicuous. 

The Plain near the burying ground Avas the summer 
residence of the Mohegans, and is a most delightful 

i?P0t. 



I'ROM NORWICH TO HAn.TFORD. 423 

FROM NORWICH TO HARTFORD. 

Stages leave Norwich in the morning, and arrive at 
Hartford at 8 P. M. Distance 39 miles— fare $2,50. 
The intermediate distances and places are as follows : 



Miles. 

Bozrah, 5 

Lebanon, 4 

Coventry', 12 



Miles. 

Bolton, 4 

East Hartford, 13 

Hartford, 1 



East Hartford, is located on the east bank of the 
Connecticut river, directly opposite Hartford, with 
w^hich it is connected by an elegant bridge, which in- 
cluding the cause-way, is nearly a mile long. The vil- 
lage contains 4 churches, several manufacturing estab- 
hshments, and between 2 and 3000 inhabitants. 

HARTFORD. 

A settlement was commenced by the English at this 
place in 1634. The Dutch, from New-Netherlands, 
had previously established a trading house and a port at 
the place, for the purpose of carrying on a commerce 
with the Indians, and were disposed to prevent the 
English from participating in the traffic. But finding 
that this could not be effected, without a bloody con- 
test, they abandoned the design. 

The charter which was originally granted to the col- 
onists of Connecticut, having been demanded by the 
English monarch in 1636, through the medium of an 
agent, it was regularly surrendered by the colonial 
legislature. This took place in an evening ; and while 
it remained on a table in a room where an agent and 
several British officers had assembled, the windows be- 
ing open, on a picconcerted signal, the candles were 



426 HARTFORD. 

extinguished by persons in the street, and the charter 
seized by a citizen in the room, and conveyed to a tree ; 
in the cavity of which it remained for several years. 
This tree is still standing ; and is known by the name 
of the Charter Oak. It is located in the lower part of 
the town, in the street running east from the south 
church, and is directly in front of the ancient mansion 
of the Wyllis family. The charter is still presei-ved in 
the office of the secretary of state. 

Hartford is now the largest city in the state. It is 
located on the west bank of the Connecticut river, at 
the head of sloop navigation, and 50 miles from its 
mouth. The city is handsomely laid out, and contains 
a number of elegant buildings and private residences. 
Among its public buildings, are a state house, arsenal, 
3 banks, a museum, an academy, a college, an asylum 
for the deaf and dumb, an asylum for the insane, and 
9 churches. Population about 12,000. 

Washington College is in Main-street, in the south 
part of the city. It was opened in 1S24, and consists of 
two edifices ; one of which is 150 feet long and 4 sto- 
ries high, and contains the rooms of the students. In 
the other is the capital, recitation rooms and library. 

The Deaf and Dumb Asylum is on Tower Hill, one 
mile west of the city ; and was the first institution of 
the kind established in tlie United States. The perma- 
nent fund of the institution, including a donation of land 
by Congress, amounts to $215,539, of which sum $80,- 
000 are available. The number of pupils is generally 
about 70, many of whom are supported by public and 
private charities. 



hartfohd. 



427 



A visit to the institution is unusually interesting. 
The utmost order and decorum prevail ; and the stran- 
ger will be delighted with means here employed for 
enlightening and cultivating the minds of an unfortu- 
nate class of community ; and with the rapid im- 
provement they make, not only in writing, but in a 
study of many of the sciences. Every thing is commu- 
nicated by means of signs. After being taught the 
mode of conveying the most necessary ideas, they pro- 
ceed to study the alphabet employed at the institution ; 
then the names of visible objects, and the order of the 
letters used in designing them ; and finally a knowl- 
edge of absent objects and abstract ideas, by means of 
ingenious devices and definitions. Many soon attain 
a knowledge of writing correctly; and some are ena- 
bled to communicate their ideas in chaste and even el- 
egant language. 

The JVeto Exchange Buildings, on the corner of Main 
and State streets, are deserving of notice, as a specimen 
of good taste, and as ornamental to the city. 

The JVeit? City Hall is an elegant structure, creditable 
to the taste and munificence of the inhabitants. 

The JVeio Episcopal Church, and the High School in 
Washington-street, occupy a prominent place. The 
latter is delightfully situated on a commanding emi- 
nence, and ranks in spaciousness and beauty with the 
most favored establishments of the kind in other cities. 
The Episcopal Church is a monument of liberal public 
spirit guided by good taste, and is surpassed in design 
and execution by few, if any similar buildings in our 
country. 



LL 



428 HARTFORD. 

The Hospital for the Insane, is a stone building, 150 
feet long and 50 wide, 4 stories high, with wings of 3 
stories. It is located a little south of the city. 

Hartford has undergone a surprising change within 
a few years. Its streets have been greatly improved ; 
many of its old buildings have given place to new and 
elegant dwellings, and the whole appearance of the city 
exhibits an unusual degree of enterprise and prosperity. 

STEAM BOATS. 

A steamboat leaves Hartford for New- York daily at 
11 A. M. reaching New- York the next morning ; and 
leaves New- York daily at 4 P. M, reaching Hartford 
the next dny at noon — fare $3,50. 

STAGES. 

To J^eiv-Haven andJfeio-York. — A state loaves Hart- 
ford every morning, (Sundays excepted) which reaches 
Hew-Haven at noon, and New-York the next morn- 
ing. Fare to New-Haven, 40 miles, $2; to New- York, 
123 miles, $3,50. 

To Boston. — A stage leaves on Monday, Wednesday 
and Friday, at 12 M. and reaches Boston at 2 P, M. 
the next day. Distance, 136 miles — fare $5,00, 

To Litchfield, Ct. — A stage leaves Hartford daily at 
8 A. M. and arrives at Litchfield at 3 P. M. — Distance 
30 miles, fare $2. 

To Hanover, W. H. {up Connecticut river.) — A stage 
leaves Hartford daily, (except Sundays) arrives at 
Brattleborough, Vt. the first day, and Hanover, N. H. 
the second — passing through "Windsor, Ct. Springfield, 
Northampton, Deerfield, and Greenfield, Mass. Brat- 
tleborough and Westminster, Vt. Walpole and Charles- 



FROM HARTFORD TO NEW-HAVEN. 429 

town, N. H. Windsor and Hartford, Vt. to Hanover. 
[This line intersects the daily stage for Boston at 
Northampton, and the daily stage for Saratoga Springs 
at Charlestown.] Distance from Hartford to Hanover, 
3 52 miles— fare $7,25. 

To J^exo- London. — A stage leaves Hartford on Mon- 
day, Wednesday and Friday, at 7 A. M. and reaches 
New-London at 5 P. M.— Distance 47 miles — fare $2. 

To Albany. — A stage leaves Hartford and Albany ev- 
ery morning (Sundays excepted) at 2, and arrives at 
each place i.t 7 P. M.— Distance 96 miles— fare $5. 

FROM HARTFORD TO NEW-HAVEN, 40 mileS. 

The intermediate places and distances are as follows : 

Miles. 



Miles. 

Wethersfield, , . . . 4 

Rockv Hill, 3 

Middietown, 8 



Durham, 7 

Northford, 8 

Nevv-Have;n, 10 



Wethersfield is located on the west bank of the 
Connecticut river, 4 miles below Hartford. The soil, 
which is of the finest order, is principally devoted to the 
culture of onions ; of which large quantities are export- 
ed annually. The labor is principally performed by 
women and children. The new penitentiary of the 
state is erected at this place. 

Rocky Hill, 3 miles ; a parish in the town of Weth- 
ersfield, containing a lofty eminence, from which a rich 
and variegated prospect of the surrounding country is 
enjoyed. Six miles farther is a village, called Middle- 
town Upper Houses ; from which to the city of Middle- 
ton is 2 miles. 



430 MIDDLRTOWN, 

MIDDLETOWN 

Is a port of entry, and is handsomelj- located on the 
west bank of the Connecticut river, 31 miles from its 
month. Among its public buildings are a court house, 
jail, alms-house, bank, 7 churches, and a military acad- 
emy. There are also several extensive manufactories 
of rifles, swords, buttons, ivory combs, woollen and cot- 
ton soods, &c. The population of the city is about 7000. 

The Military .Academy is pleasantly situated a short 
distance from the city. The two principal buildings 
are each 1 50 feet long, 50 broad and 4 stories high. 
There is also a chapel, with recitation rooms above, 
and a dining hall. The latteris 120 feet long, andfaces 
the parade. The whole assumes a very handsome and 
imposing appearance, and from the top of the chapel 
may be had an extensive view of the surrounding coun- 
try. The course of instruction is similar to that pursu- 
ed at the military academy at West Point. The schol- 
ars wear the uniform of cadets ; and, besides other sci- 
ences, are taught the use of arms, and are subject to a 
strict military discipline. 

On the eastern bank of the Connecticut, opposite to 
Middletown, are several quarries of free stone, used for 
building. Innuediately below the city, the river turns 
abruptly to the west ; and passes between two lofty 
hills, forming what are called the Narrows. Within 
these Narrows, on the south bank of the river, is a lead 
mine, which was used during the revolutionary war. 



MIDDLETOWN. 431 

It can be approached only in boats or by means of a 
foot path.* 

In proceeding on the stage route to New-Haven, the 
only object witnessed worthy of remark, is a natural ice 
house in the parish of Northfield, 18 miles from Middle- 
town, and 7 from New-Haven. It is on the declivity 
of a trap ridge near the road; and contains ice through- 
out the year. 

A natural ice house, of still greater extent, is in the 
town of Meriden, on another route from Hartford to 
Nev/-Haven, and nearly equi-distant from those places. 
It is in a country composing a part of the secondary 
trap region of Connecticut, and is marked by numerous 
distinct ridges of green stone, which preseni: lofty mu- 
ral precipices, and from their number, contiguity and 
parallelism, they often form narrow precipitous defiles, 
filled more or less with fragments of rocks of various 
sizes, from that of a hand stone to that of a cottage. 

It is in the cavities beneath these masses of rock, 
that the ice is formed. The ground descends a little to 
the south, and a small brook appears to have formed a 



* Continuing a course down the river, the steam boat 
successively passes Middle Haddam, Haddam, East 
Haddam, Essex or Pettipaug, and Saybrook, where the 
river enters Long Island Sound. The shores are gen- 
erally bold and rocky, and present but few objects of 
interest. Saybrook was the first town settled on the 
river ; at which time (1635) a small fort was erected at 
the place. The town was originally granted to Lord 
Say and Seal, Lord Brook and others ; and derived its 
name from these proprietors. Yale college was located 
here for a time, and afterwards removed to New-Haven, 
ll2 



4o3 NEU-HAVEH. 

channel among tlie rocks. The ice is thick and well 
consolidated, and its gradual melting, in the warm 
season, causes a stream of ice cold water to issue from 
this defile. This fact has been known to the people of 
the vicinity for several generations, and the youth have, 
since the middle of the last century, been accustomed 
to resort to this place, in parties, for recreation, and to 
drink the waters of the cold flowing brook. 

NEW-HAVEN, 

Twenty-five miles from Middletown, is usually pro- 
nounced by travellers, to be one of the handsomest 
towns in the Union. It is located around a harbor 
which sets up about 4 miles from Long Island Sound ; 
and is the semi-capital of the state. The city is built 
on a large plain, encircled on all sides, except those oc- 
cupied by the water, by hills and lofty mountains. It 
is divided into two parts, called the old and new town- 
ships ; in each of which is an open square. The hou- 
ses are generally neat, and some are very elegant. To 
each dwelling, there is generally attached a garden, and 
frequently a beautiful yard in front. Added to which, 
several of the streets are adorned with lofty trees, giving 
the whole a rural and most delightful appearance. 
Among the public buildings are a state house, the col- 
lege edifices, 5 churches, a court house, jail, 2 banks, a 
custom house and 3 or 4 academies. The population 
is between 11 and 12,000. 

The Public Sqiiare or Green, near the centre of the 
city, is an elegant spot, containing several acres and 
is surrounded by stately elms. In the centre are three 
churches and the state house j on the west side, the 



KEW -HAVEN. 433 

"College buildings ; and on the east side, fronting the 
state house, the Tontine Coffee House. The space 
immediately in the rear of the churches, called the Up- 
per Green, was formerly used as a burying ground ; but 
in 1821 the monuments were removed to the new bu- 
rying ground, in the northwestern part of the city. 
The ancient monument of Dixwell, {seep. 344,) is still 
to be seen, and it is believed by many that the other 
regicides, Goffe and Whalley, were also interred here ; 
but this opinion is unsupported by evidence. Goffe 
died at Hadley, and was probably buried there ; and of 
Whailey no certain information was ever obtained af- 
ter he left Hadley. 

Yale College was founded in 170], and was named 
after its early benefactor, Elihu l^ale, governor of the 
East India Company. It was originally located at Kil- 
lingworth ; afterwards removed to Saybrook, {see p. 
431 ;) and from thence, in 1717, to New-Haven. The 
faculty is composed of a president, 10 professors, a li- 
brarian and 8 tutors. The library consists of about 
10,000 volumes; and the literary societies among the 
students have libraries amounting, collectively, to 5000 
more. The cabinet of minerals is very extensive, and 
by far the most valuable of any in the Union. The col- 
lege buildings consist of four spacious edifices, each 4 
stories high, 104 feet long and 40 wide, and each con- 
taining 32 rooms for students ; two chapels, one contain- 
ing a philosophical chamber ; a Lyceum, containing 
the library and recitation rooms — all of brick ; and a 
handsome dining hall in the rear of the other buildings, 
built of stone. Seven of these buildings stand in a line 
fronting the green, the Lyceum occupying a central po- 



434 WEST ROCK. 

sition ; and the whole, with the charming scenery 
around, form a most enchanting and elegant landscape. 
The medical institution fronting College street, is con- 
nected with the college, and has a valuable anatomical 
museum. The number of students at Yale is generally 
from 450 to 500. Tlie alumni of the institution amount- 
ed, in 1826, to upwards of 4000 ; of whom more than 
2200 were then living. 

The J^tio Burying Ground, containing several acres, 
is divided into parallelograms, which are subdivided for 
families. The ground is planted with trees, mostly wil- 
lows ; and the white monuments, several of which are 
obelisks, seen through the foliage, with the taste and 
uniformity every where discovered, give to the whole a 
most impressive and solemn appearance. 

The Tontine Coffee House, is one of the best establish- 
ments of the kind in the \}, S. It is located directly in 
front of the state house and college edifices, the public 
square intervening, commanding from its vipper or fourth 
story, a beautiful and extensive view of the city and the 
surrounding country. The Tontine, which is built of 
brick, is 80 feet long, with a wing extending back 100 
feet. It contains a spacious dining hall, cotillion room, 
8 private and public parlours, and a sufficient number 
of lodging chambers to accommodate from SO to 100 
guests. 

West Rock is 2 miles north-west of New-Haven, It 
is the southern extremity of the east ridge of the Green 
Mountains, and is a perpendicular bluff fronting the 
south, 400 feet in height. The village of Hotchkiss- 
tovvn is at its foot. The cave in which the regicide 
judges, Whallcy &. GofTe, secreted themselves for three 



FARMINGTON CANAL. 435 

or four years, {see p. 343,) is on the summit of the rock, 
about a mile north of the bluff. The cave is formed by 
the crevices between several large rocks, apparently 
thrown together by some convulsion, and is entirely 
above ground. Near the top of one of the rocks is this 
inscription : " Opposition to tyrants is obedience to 
God." During the contiuance of the regicides at this 
place, they were furnised daily with food by a family 
who resided near the foot of the mountain. 

East Rock is 2 miles north east of New-Haven, and 
is the southern termination of the Mount Tom range of 
mountains. It is 370 feet high ; and from its top a fine 
view is had of New-Haven, its harbor, the Sound and 
Long Island. It was for some years the residence of a 
hermit, who was found dead in his habitation a few 
years since. 

The Farmington Canal, which was originally com- 
menced at the north line of the state, terminates at New 
Haven — distance 5S miles, lockage 218 feet. This ca- 
nal has since been extended to Northampton, Mass. 
between 20 and 30 miles farther ; and a branch has 
been constructed from Farmingtnn up to the Farming- 
ton river, to New-Hartford, 15 miles. 

The towns bordering on the sound, near New-Ha- 
ven, are visited in the summer months by numerous 
invalids for the benefit of the sea breeze and a salubri- 
ous climate. Amongthese towns, Guilford, 15 miles 
east of New-Haven, is generally preferred. It has two 
harbors, is a place of considerable trade, and is con- 
stantly supplied with the best of oysters, lobsters and 
fish, taken in and near the harbors. 



436 FROM NEW-HAVEN TO NEW-TORK. 

Steam J5oafsply between New-Haven and New- York 
daily, leaving the former place at 8 P. M. and the latter 
at 7 A. M. The passage is generally performed in 8 or 
9 hours. Fare ^2. 

Stages leave New-Haven daily, for Hartford, Boston 
Albany, and New-York. Distance to Hartford 40 
miles; to Boston, 136 miles; to Albany, 110 miles; 
to New- York, 86 miles.* 



* This route is usually performed in 12 or 14 hours, 
and the intervening places and distances are as fol- 
lows : 

3Iiles. 

Stamford, 11 

Greenwich, 6 

Harlfem, 30 

New-York, 8 



Miles. 

Stratford, 13 

Bridgeport;. 3 

Fairfield, 5 

Norwalk, 10 

Bridgeport is handsomely situated on both banks 
of the Pughquonnuck river. The village contains a 
bank and two churches. 

Fairfield is a port of entry on Long Island Sound 
containing a court house, academy, several churches, 
and a population of about 2000, It was on a low level 
piece of ground, w^hich is s*?on on the left side of the 
road about a mile and a half after leaving the village, 
that the remnant of the Pequot tribe of Indians, after 
the destruction of their fort by Capt Mason at Mystic, 
{see p. 419,) were either killed or captured. The battle 
was severe and bloody, and some relics of arms used 
in the contest arc at this day occasionally found by the 
inhabitants. 

NoRWALK is on the Sound, and is a pleasant village, 
containing an academy and 3 churches. 



FROM NRW-HAVE.V TO LITCHFIELD. 437 

FROM NEW-HAVEN TO LITCHFIELD. 

A stage leaves New-Haven daily for Litchfield, pass- 
ing through Waterbury and Watertown — distance 38 
miles. 

Passing West Rock, (see p. 434,) and proceeding 
from thence for a considerable distance in a northerly 
direction, through a beautiful valley, having on itsrioht 
a lofty rocky barrier, with rude perpendicular precipi- 
ces. Beacon Moimtain is reached in travelling 14 miles 
from New-Haven. This mountain is a ridge of almost 
naked rocks stretching to the south-west. " The road, 
which is formed in the natural gap of the mountain, 
here wdnds through a bold gulf or defile, so narrow, 
that at one place only a single carriage can pass at 
once. On both sides, the cliffs are lofty, particularly 
on the left ; and on the right, a little distance from the 
road, they overhang in a frightful manner." Beyond 
this gap, the road turns more to the left, running along 
a rivulet; and after three or four miles, on rising an 
eminence, the Naugatuck, a branch of the Housatonic 



West Chester County, which is entered in a few 
miles after leaving GreenM^ich, and which was "neu- 
tral ground" during the revolutionary war, was selected 
by Mr, Cooper, the novelist, as the principal scene of 
his " Spy." 

At HoRSENECK, 33 miles from N. York, the traveller 
is shown the steep, down which Gen. Putnam descend- 
ed on horse-back during the revolution. 

AtHARL.^5M,8 miles from New-York, the road pass- 
es near the East river, affording the traveller a view of 
Hurl Gate. (See /j. 114.) 



433 LITCHFIELD. 

river, is discovered. It runs through a deep and nar- 
row gulf, which is seen from the r;)ad. 

Watertown, 26 miles from New-Haven, is on a 
commanding hill, and is a beautiful little village, con- 
taining two churches, 

Litchfield is on a handsome eminence, and is con- 
sidered one of the most pleasant villages in the state. 
The principal street extends more than a mile in length, 
and contains a collection of neat houses, adorned with 
gardens and court yards. Among the public builinga 
are a court house, jail, bank and two churches. There 
is also at this place a young ladies' school, which hag 
obtained much celebrity : and a distinguished law 
school, established in 1664, by the late Tapping Reeve, 
and now under the charge of the Hon. James Gould. 
The number of students educated at this institution 
since its establishment is between 6 and 700. 

Mount Tom, near the south-west corner of this town 
is 700 feet above the river at its base, and affords from 
its top an extensive prospect. 

The Great Pond, in Litchfield, comprises an area of 
about 900 acres, is the largest in the state, and is a 
beautiful sheet of water, affording at its outlet a num- 
ber of valuable mill seats. 

A Chalybeate Spring has been discovered within a 
few years, on the east side of Movmt Prospect, four 
miles'west of the village of Litchfield. It issues from 
an extensive bed of sulphuret of iron, and is copious 
and perrennial, exhibiting in its course much oxide of 
iron, ochre, and a white deposit. 

Mount Prospect, is a rocky, wood clad, elevated ridge, 
of two miles extent. From its summit an interesting 



FROM LITCHFIELD TO HARTFORD. 439 

and diversified .^ew is presented of villages and lakes, 

and of a well cultivated, healthy country 

From Litchfield, a stage may be taken daily, pass- 
ing through Last Goshen, Norfolk, Canaan, Sheffield, 
Great Barnngton, West Stockbridge, Chatham, Nas^ 
sau Schodack and Grecnbush to Albany, and reaching 

-fare .'I ' Th " • ^T '' '°""- ^'^^^"^^ '' -1- 
T llA.; I '' ^^^ "'^'^ *^^^^^t route, also, from 
Litchfield to Saratoga Springs,, but, to make the tour 
of New-Lngland more complete, it is recommended to 
proceed from Litchfield to Hartford, and from thence 
up the beautiful valley of the Connecticut river, which 
IS vanegated with villages and country seats, and pre- 
sents some of the finest scenery on the continent. 

FROM LITCHFIELD TO HARTFORD. 

A Stage may be taken at Litchfield daily, except 
Sundays, at 4 A. M. passing through Harwint;a, Bui 
hngtonandFarmington,and reaching Hartford at 11 
-a. ^vi. Distance 30 miles— fare $2. 

Harwimto. is a small village, 7 miles from Litch- 
field, on the Naugatuck river. 
Burlington, 7 miles. 

Farmixgton, 6 miles. This is a pleasant village 
located on the Farmington river, which, after leaving the 
village, takes a northerly course for 15 miles, where it 
IS joined by the Salmon river. It then turns to the 
southeast, passing between lofty mountains and de 

iovTHar^' 7-^-d joins the Connecticut 4 miles 
aoove Hartford. Farmington contains 3 churches and 

M&I 



440 ROUTE UP THE CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

a population of between 2 and 3000. [For a notice of 
the Farmington canal, which passes through this place, 
see page 340.] 
Hartford, 10 miles. (See p. 425.) 

ROUTE UP THE VALLEY OF THE CONNECTICUT 
RIVER. 

Stages run daily between Hartford, Conn, and Han- 
over, N. H. up the Connecticut river, as noticed at page 
428. Passing through East Hartford, {see p. 425,) the 
first village reached is 

Windsor, 7 miles from Hartford, located on the 
west bank of the river. Settlements were commenced 
at this place as well as at Hartford, in 1633. 

Enfield, 9 miles. A canal has been recently con- 
structed around the falls at this place, of sufficient di- 
mensions to receive steam-boats ; and they now pass 
as far up as Springfield without difficulty, and except 
in very low water, for a considerable distance above 
Windsor, Vt. This canal commences at the head of 
the Falls, by a wing dam 700 feet long, which reaches 
to the middle of the river. From the lower end of the 
wing dam a pier extends down 200 feet parallel to and 
100 feet from the west bank, and is raised above the 
river so as to form a basin and safe entrance to the 
Grand Lock. At right angles to this pier, a breast wall 
of solid masonry, strengthened by butresses, extends 
70 feet towards the bank, and is there united to the 
grand lock. This and the breast wall are sixteen feet 
higher than the surface of the water in the canal, pre- 
senting a firm defence against the highest floods. Th« 



SUFFIELD. 441 

breast wall covers twelve sluices, with sliding gates, 
for the free admission of water for hydraulic purposes. 
The river banks are generally high and rocky, for about 
three miles below the grand lock, and the canal is 
formed by an embankment of earth raised in the bed of 
the river, and protected on the outside by a stone wall. 
Two miles below the guard lock. Mill brook crosses 
the line of the canal, and is passed by an aqueduct of 
90 feet long and 60 feet wide, having six piers and 
abutments of substantial masonry. The height of the 
artificial embankment increases gradually, as it passes 
down the river, until it rises to a perpendicular eleva- 
tion of 25 feet, when the high river bank retires to the 
west, and the canal is carried about two miles over land 
to its termination below the falls. Here are three locks 
of masonry of ten feet lift each. The locks are sepa- 
rated by pools 50 feet wide, in which ascending and 
descending boats may pass each other, and avoid the 
detention which is unavoidable where several locks are 
combined in a connected line. The dimensions of the 
locks are 90 feet by 20 in the clear, and they are calcu- 
lated to have four feet depth of water. The depth of 
the canal varies from four to twenty feet. The aver- 
age width, at the surface of the water, is about seventy 
feet and the total length five and a half miles. 

SuFFiELD, 1 mile from Enfield, on the west bank of 
the river, is a beautiful town. The village, which is on 
an eminence about a mile west of the river road, is 
composed principally of one street, half a mile in ex- 
tent. The houses, with their handsome gardens and 
yards, present a picturesque and elegant appearance, 



442 8PRINGFELD. 

A sulpher spring, a mile or two southwest of the vil- 
lage, is a place of some resort by invalids. 

West Sprixgfield, 9 miles, is located on the west 
bank of the Connecticut river, and contains several 
handsome private dwellings. A bridge here ciosses the 
river, connecting the place with 

Springfield, on the opposite side ; which is a large 
and handsome villao-e. The houses are principally lo- 
cated at the foot of a hill ; on the west side of which 
are several elegant residences, and on the summit a U. 
S. arsenal. The village contains a court house, jail, 
two churches, and several manufactories. 

The buildings composing the arsenal on the heights, 
occupy a large square, and are surrounded by a high 
wall. They are mostly built of brick and present a 
magnificent appearance. About 13,000 muskets are 
manufactured here annually. The water works em- 
ployed for the purpose are on Mill river, a mile south 
of the arsenal. 

Springfield became the theatre of savage barbarity 
during Philip's war in 1675. The towns still further up 
the river had, for some time previous, suffered severely 
from repeated Indian incursions. But the Springfield 
tribe had thus far remained quiet ; and it was not till 
the month of October of this year, that Philip could 
succeed by his artifices to enlist t!iem in his favor. On 
the night of the 4th, it was ascertained by means of 
a frindly Indian, that 300 of the tribe had suddenly and 
secretly assembled at a Fort on Long Hill, about a mile 
below the village. This intelligence produced much 
consternation among the inhabitants ; and they imme- 
diately repaired to their fortified houses. No distur- 



SOUTH IIADLEY FALLS. 443 

bance, however, occurring in the night, hopes were en- 
tertained that hostihties were not intended on the part 
of the Indians. Lieut. Cooper, the commandant of the 
place, and another, accordingly resolved on repairing 
to the fort, for the purpose of dissipating the fears that 
still existed among the inhabitants. Having reached 
the small stream at the lower part of the village, Coop- 
er and his companion were shot by Indians who were 
concealed in the woods. This seemed to be a signal 
for attack ; as the whole body immediately rushed into 
the town with a horrid yell, and set fire to the unforti- 
fied dweUings and haras. The whole were soon envel- 
oped in flames and consumed. During this period, a fire 
was kept up from the fortified houses upon the Indians, 
and several killed ; but it was not till they had destroy- 
ed 32 dwellings and nearly as many barns, and plun- 
dered every thing within their reach, that they with- 
drew. A brick house standing at the time of this ca- 
tastrophe, is still in tolerable preservation. 

During the rebellion of Shays, in 1786, the armory 
at this place was attacked by him. But he was repuls- 
ed, with the loss of a few men ; and his followers sub- 
sequently dispersed. 

Pursuing the course of the river on the west side, 
over a beautiful country, 

South Hadlet Falls are reached in going 12 miles 
from Springfield. The river here descends i^Ii the dis- 
tance of two and a half miles, 52 feet ; and on the east 
side, commencing at South Hadley village, a. canal has 
been constructed, corresponding in extent with thesa 
falls, through which Inmber and the largest boats pass. 



444 HATFIELD. 

Previous to reaching Northampton, the river, (in which 
there is an abrupt turn,) passes between Mount Tom 
on the south, and Mount Holyoke (see p. 341) on tho 
north. North of the latter mountain, a most charming 
and extensive plain is presented, embracing many ele- 
gant villages and country seats. 

NoRTHAMPTOK, 5 milcs from South Hadley. {See p. 
340.) 

Hadley, 2 miles east of Northampton. ( See p. 342.) 

Hatfield, 5 miles north of Northampton, on the 
west side of the river, is a neat and venerable town, 
havincr been settled as early as 1658. In October, 1675, 
after The burnincv of Springfield, {see p. 442,) the Indi- 
ans under Philip, flushed with their repeated successes, 
made an attack on Hatfield ; which was then defend- 
ed by two companies, aided by a third, which came to 
their relief during the conflict. The Indians were about 
700 strong, and made a furious assault upon the town 
in various°directions, pillaging and burning several of 
the houses. But they were defeated, and compelled to 
seek safety in a precipitate flight. 

On the 30th of May of the following year, another 
attack was made uponHatfield by 600 Indians. Twelve 
unfortified buildings were immediately burnt ; but the 
others, which were pallisaded, were defended by a few 
inhabitants. Part of the Indians then repaired to the 
fields, and attacked the men at their labor ; but 25 
young men crossed the river from Hadley, and rushing 
upon°the Indians, killed several, and finally, with the 
aid of the inhabitants, dispersed them. 



^ Muddy Brook, 9 miles from Hatfield, is a small v\U 
iage, deriving its name from a stream which passea 
through the place, bordered by a narrow morass. The 
place m 16/5, and for some time subsequent, was call» 
ed Blcodjj Brook, in consequence of a battle which was 
fought with the [ndians on the 18th of September of 
that year. Capt.. Lothrop, who had been despatched 
with 80 men and several teams, to secure a quantity of 
wheat m Deerfield, two or three miles farther north, 
was surprised on his return through this place, by a 
party of 700 Indians, who had secretly watched his 
movements, and who lay in ambush awaitinrr his ar- 
rival. He had no sooner crossed the small stream 
above mentioned, than they rushed upon him, pourin- 
m sucn a deadly fire as to produce complete discomfit" 
ure Lothrop and his men fied • but being pursued 
and overtaken at aH points, they resolved to sell their 
lives ma vigorous struggle. They accordin^rly posted 
themselves behind the neighboring trees ; when the 
conflict became a trial of skill in sharp shooting At 
length the struggle terminated in the annihilation of 
nearly the whole of the English. Lothrop was killed 
in the early part of the action ; and his loss, including 
teamsters, amounted to ninety. The troops at Deer! 
field, under Captain Mosely, hearing the musketry, 
hastened to the scene of combat, and arrived soon af- 
ter Its close. They found the Indians stripping the 
slain. Mosely improving the favorable opportunity, 
rushed upon them and cut them down in all direc- 
tions, driving the remainder into the adjacent swamps 
1 he next mormng, it was found that a few Indians had 



446 DEERFJSl.O. 

returned to the field of battle for the purpose of plunder ; 
but they were soon dispersed. 

Though the loss of the enemy on the previous day 
was estimated at about 100, the engagement was, nev- 
ertheless, more disastrous i)i its consequences to the 
English. The destruction of 90 valuable men, the 
flower of a thinly scattered population, was calculated 
to produce much despondency, and occasion the most 
serious apprehensions for the safety of the remaining 
colonists. 

The place where this battle was fought is near the 
centre of the village, about 30 rods south of the church. 
The bridge over the stream is located at the place where 
Lothrop crossed. Some remains of a coarse monument 
once erected here are still visible. 

Deerfield, 3 miles fi-om Muddy Brook, and 17 
miles north of Northampton, is a handsome v'illage on 
the west bank of the Connecticut river. It is in the 
midst of a very fertile and beautiful country*, presenting 
a succession of rich and highly cultivated farins. The 
town was among the early settlements on the river ; 
and, more than any other place, was the theatre of In- 
dian warfare. • In September, 1675, an attack was made 
on the place, one man killed and sevei-al houses redu- 
ced to ashes. For about 20 years subsequent to this, 
owing to repeated incursions of the savages, the inhab- 
itants were often compelled to abandon their dwellings 
and seek a temporary asylum in the neighboring towns. 
During the French wars under WiUiam and Anne, how- 
ever, they maintained their ground until 1704; made 
many improvements and enclosed the centre of the vil- 
lage by an extensive but imperfect pallisaded work. 



DEERFIELD. 447 

This fortification was attacked by about 350 French 
and Indians in the month of February of that year. 
They had secretly taken a position two miles north of 
the village on the evening of the 9th ; from whence 
they cautiously proceeded to the fort the next morning 
before day. There being no sentinels posted, the for- 
tification was easily entered, and the work of destruc- 
tion commenced ere the inhabitants had aroused from 
their slumbers. A feeble resistance, only, could be 
made. Aii the houses, except one, within the palli- 
sades, were burnt ; between 40 and 50 of the inhabi- 
tants were killed, and 112, including women and chil- 
dren made prisoners. In the drear of winter, with a 
scanty supply of provisions, and with little clothiagj 
the unfortunate captives were compelled to take up 
their line of march for Canada. Mr. Williams, the 
clergyman of the place, and his family, were of the num- 
ber. His wife* was murdered in two or three days af- 
ter commencing the excursion ; and sixteen others ei- 
ther died or were massacred before reaching the Pro- 
vince. Most of those who survived, after remaining ia 
captivity for some time, were redeemed. A daughter 
of Mr. Williams, however, who had married an Indian 
chief, refused to return. She assumed the habliment of 
a savage, and died in Canada some years afterwards. 
Several of her descendants are still living there. 

The house which survived the conflagration at Deer- 
field is still standing, and is owned by Col. Elihu Hoyt, 



* She was afterwards, with her husband, interred in 
the church-yard at Deerfield ; and marble slabs placed 
over their graves^ 



448 turner's falls. 

It is in a tolerable state of preservation, and exhibits to 
this day the perforation made in the door by toma- 
hawks, as well as the marks of balls in the interior. 
One of these marks is shown, as having been made by 
a ball which killed a female in the house ; and in one 
of the timbers a bullet is seen, which has never been 
extracted, 

Greenfield, 4 miles from Deerfield, is a large and 
pleasant village, on the west side of the river ; from 
which it is distant 2 miles. It contains a court house, 
jail, bank and 3 churches. It is a central position for 
the trade of the surrounding country ; and is a place of 
wealth and enterprise. A young Ladies' Seminary at 
this place is beautifuHy located and under excellent 
regulations. 

Turner's Falls, on the Connecticut river, are 3 
miles from Greenfield, in a north-easterly direction. 
The road taken in visiting them is east of the ordinary 
stage route ; and it is customary, therefore, after an ex- 
cursion to the falls, to return to Greenfield. The route 
is principally over the ground taken by Capt. Turner, 
in his attack on the Indians in 1676. The fall is be- 
tween forty and fifty feet ; but by the erection of a dam 
for the accommodation of a canal, the cataract has lost 
much of its original wildness. 

The Indians, amounting to several hundreds, having 
taken a position on elevated ground, on the west bank 
of the river at the head of the fall, it was deemed im- 
portant to dislodge them. This service was undertak- 
en by Capt. Turner, at the head of about 160 mounted 
troops. He l^O Hatfield on the 17th of May, 1676, 



BERNARDSTOWN — VERNON. 449 

and reached within half a mile of the Indian encamp- 
ment before day the next morning without discovery. 
Here his men left their horses, and by a rapid march, 
reached the camp before the Indians awoke from their 
slumbers. A deadly and destructive fire was immedi- 
ately commenced. Beheving it to proceed from their 
ancient and powerful enemy the Mohawks, many of 
the Indians fled to the river, and leaped into their ca- 
noes ; but in attempting to cross they were mostly 
shot or precipitated over the cataract. Others fled to 
the rocks of the river bank, where they were cut down 
without resistance ; and few escaped the victorious 
arm of the assailants. One hundred were left dead on 
the field ; one hundred and forty were seen to descend 
the cataract ; and their whole loss was afterwards as- 
certained to have been 300. Turner lost but one man. 
In his retreat, he was less fortunate. He was at- 
tacked by other parties of Indians on the route— his 
men divided— himself killed ; and the loss of his party, 
before they reached Hatfield, amounted to between 30 
and 40. Capt. T. is supposed to have fallen in what is 
called Greenfield Meadow, at the mouth of a small 
stream on which a mill now stands ; as his body was 
afterwards found at that place by a scouting party of 
the English. 

Bernardstown, 5 miles north of Greenfield. 

Vernon, 6 miles j the first town reached in entering 
the state of Vermont. Fort Dummer, built to protect 
the inhabitants against the Indians, was located at this 
place. 



450 GUILFORD — CHARLESTOWN. 

Guilford, 5 miles. Here are two slate quarries and 
several mills and manufactories. 

Brattleborough, 6 miles, a flourishing village, is 
located on the vi'est bank of the Connecticut river ; 
over which there is a permanent bridge. White stone 
creek also passes through the place, affording a number 
of good mill sites. The village contains a bank, the 
most extensive printing establishment in the state, and 
several manufactories. Stages pass daily between this 
place and Boston, Hartford, Albany and Hanover. 

DuMMERSTON, 5 milcs. 
Putney, 5 miles. 

Westminster, 5 miles. The first newspaper print- 
ed in Vermont was issued from a press at this place ; 
though it was discontinued several years since for want 
of patronage. The village is located on a beautiful 
plain on the west bank of the Connecticut ; but it has 
not improved much within the last twenty years. 

Walpole, N. H. to which a bridge leads, is on the 
opposite side of the river, and is noticed at page 349. 

Bellows Falls, on the Vermont side, 4 miles from 
Walpole. ( See p. 348. ) Proceeding up the river over 
a beautiful plain, 

Charlestown, N. H. is reached in travelling 8 miles 
from Bellows Falls. It is handsomely located on the 
east side of the river, and is a neat village, containing a 
court house, jail and bank. 

A fort was built for the defence of this place in 1743, 
on rising ground south of the church, over which the 
present street passes. In March, 1747, while the fort 



SrRTXGFIELD. 45j 

was occupied by Capt. Stsvens and thirty men, a furi- 
ous assault was made upon it by a large body of French 
^ and Indians, under the command of M. Debeline. The 
fort being composed of materials which were combusti- 
ble, the enemy attempted its destruction, by setting a 
log house and the fences to the windward on fire. To 
guard against a conflagration, the besieged through 
great exertions, succeeded in making several subterra- 
nean passages under the parapet, with an opening at 
the top of each. From these passages, which were 
deep enough to protect the men fi-^i the enemy's shot 
water, taken from a well within the fort, was thrown 
upon the parapet, and the plan of the enemy frustrated- 
A sort of mantelet, loaded with dry faggots, set on fire 
was then forced towards the fort, accompanied with 
flaming, arrows; but all to no purpose. Stevens main- 
tamed his position, continued a fire upon the enemy 
whenever he presented himself, and refused all propo- 
sitions of a surrender. After an assault of three days 
and suffering severely in the loss of his men, Debeline 
withdrew from the siege. None of Stevens' men were 
killed, and but two wounded. 

For this brave defence, Sir Charles Knowles, com- 
mandant of a naval force then in Boston harbor sent 
Capt. Stevens an elegant sword. The town was sub- 
eequently named in honor of Sir Charles. 

From Charlestown, a stage may be tlken daily for 
Saratoga Spnngs, passing through Chester, Manches- 
ter, &c. ; or for Boston, passing through Walpole 
Keene, &c. (Seep. 348 fo 350.) ' 

Springfied, Vt. on the west side of the river, 5 
allies from Charlestown. 

NN 



453 WEATHERSFIELD — HANOVER. 

Weathersfield, G miles ; a fine agricultural town- 
ship. Jarvis' farm, at what is termed Weathersfield 
Bow (a turn in the river) is considered one of the best 
in Vermont. 

Windsor, 7 miles. ( See p. 356. ) 

Hartland, 7 miles. 

Hartford, 7 miles. There are two handsome villa- 
ges in this town ; one near tlie junction of the White 
river, and the other near the junction of the Glueechy 
river with tlie Connecticut. In both there are several 
mills and manufactories. From Hartford, the river is 
crossed to 

Hanover, (noticed at p. 357,) from which a stag's 
may bo taken daily for BurUngton, Vt. or Boston. 



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